February 2008 \ Tech Tips \ Ask Amp Man \ Super 60 Woes

Super 60 Woes

Jeff Bober
Premier Guitar February 2008




Hi Jeff,
I really enjoy your column in Premier Guitar – it has helped me understand a lot about amps. I have three questions relating to my Fender Super 60 combo amp. I have replaced my preamp and power tubes with 12AX7s and 6L6GCs from Ruby Tubes. Changing the preamp tubes smoothed out the raspy distortion (now similar to Santana smoothness) and got rid of the hum. What would I need to do to get a modern rock sound?

Also, this is a very loud amp. I understand that removing certain tubes can cut the power in half. Which ones would I remove? And finally, when I bought the amp, it had an EV 12L speaker, which weighs more by itself then the amp does without it. I love the tone with the EV, but need something lighter. What speaker options are there to replace the heavy EV with something lighter that will have a similar or the same tonal characteristics? The help is appreciated.

Jeff Jordan


Hi Jeff,
Thanks for reading Premier Guitar. I’m glad you enjoy my column and I’m happy to hear that it has helped you.

For its time in the eighties, your amp probably had a “modern rock sound,” but as we all know, times change. I’ll try to answer your power and speaker concerns and since this is a DIY-themed issue, I’ll go one step further and give you a few small circuit modifications to try.

Let’s first discuss the possibility of removing tubes to reduce the output power. While removing output tubes is a possible option in some amps (consult the manufacturer prior to attempting this), it is not an option for your amp. Output stages which use four output tubes can generally have two removed in order to reduce the output power; since your Super 60 only uses two output tubes, the removal of one would leave half of the output transformer unloaded. In short, this is not a happy situation for the transformer.

There are a couple of other options you could explore, the first being the use of an external attenuator. Numerous companies produce attenuators which can be inserted between your amp and speaker. This will allow you to reduce the amount of power being sent from your amp to the speaker.

Another option would be to install power reducers in the output tube sockets. THD makes a unit called a Yellow Jacket, and they can be installed in the output sockets of your amp, enabling the amp to utilize EL84 tubes in place of the stock 6L6 tubes. This will effectively place the output in the 15 to 20 watt range, a more-than-manageable power for most situations.

As for the EV speaker, you have the typical EV love/hate relationship – love the tone, hate the weight. Since corporations and guitar players seem to be downsizing nowadays, speaker companies are answering the call with a few choices. Jensen, Eminence and Celestion all offer models utilizing neodymium magnets, a lightweight magnetic material, cutting some heft from the design. After reviewing the selections from the three companies, I would choose the Tonkerlite by Eminence. In my opinion, it stands to be potentially closer to the EV than any of the others. You simply won’t find anything that sounds the same, but unfortunately that’s the price to be paid for making weight the more important parameter.

As I mentioned earlier, here are a few internal tweaks that I would try in order to give the amp a more “modern” sound. These will in no way effect a huge change in the amp, as that would require much more extensive modification. I have not previously attempted these modifications – they were simply developed after reviewing the schematic of your amp. If you like them, great. If not, you can simply return the amp to stock with no harm done.

Please note: any involvement inside the chassis of a tube amp can result in contact with some potentially lethal voltages! Do not attempt to perform any type of servicing unless you first turn the amp off and discharge the filter capacitors. If you do not know how, find someone who does. Neither Premier Guitar nor I will assume any responsibility for damages suffered by you or your equipment. But enough with the scary disclaimers – now for the mods.
  1. Replace the .0047ìf coupling capacitors in the first and second gain stage (C102 & 105) with 0.01ìf 600V caps. This will provide a slightly fuller signal range in the signal path.
  2. Replace both the 0.047ìf and 0.1ìf caps in the tone stack (C6 & 7) with 0.022ìf 600V capacitors. While the prior values are great for the “traditional” type of Fender tone, I feel the .022 caps sound better in higher gain circuits.
  3. Replace the 120K resistor in the power supply (R167) with a 100K resistor. This should raise the plate voltage in the first couple gain stages by approximately 30 volts.
  4. If it’s not already a part of your amp, install the bias control. The schematic actually lists the 5K bias potentiometer (R171) and 8.2K series resistor (R178) as “optional,” so install them if necessary. If you do so, remove the 10K bias set resistor (R158).
Now hopefully you’ll love your amp enough to buy it a Valentine’s Day card! Until next time.






Jeff Bober
Co-Founder and Senior Design Engineer – Budda Amplification
jeffb@budda.com
www.budda.com
©2007 Jeff Bober

     

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Comments

(9 comments) display by
UsernameComment
sam dejillo
on 10/04/2012
Hi! I have A Fender super 60 and my channel input is very quiet and rattles. Change speaker, power and pre-amp tubes but still vey quiet. What do i need to replace, change to get that fender clean sound. And also, where is the bias trim pot for fender ss. Is't fixed bias?
I'm totally lost with this amp which i really like when it was working right. Your advise is greatly appreciated !!!!!
Mike
on 06/14/2012
I see that this is an old article and thread, but maybe someone out there is watching. My Super 60 recently stopped working during a couple-day timeframe in which it wasn't played. The amp doesn't really turn on, the tubes don't light up and I don't get any LED indication on the front. You can feel the amp vibrating slightly when you switch it on. After the issue arose, I tried replacing all the tubes, and replaced the fuse despite the fact that it didn't look blown. Still no dice. Not sure what the problem is. Any advice? Or should I just take it in to a shop so I don't electrocute myself... And if this is a matter best handled in a shop, does anyone have an idea of what it probably is and how much I should expect to pay for this repair? I'm trying to decide whether it's worth it to get the amp fixed, or if I should just buy a new amp. Any input would be great.
Flute
on 11/10/2011
Problem: powerful amp in a small space= heat. Always run a fan aimed at the tubes
Chris
on 10/01/2011
I'm with Matti on this: The clean is awesone, the OD channel is raspy and thin. Needs it's own EQ of nothing else. I also went with an OD pedeal. I was lucky to have 3 Fulltone models and 3 Radial models and a tube screamer (9 and 10) and a BK Tube Driver (with boas control)in my studio at at the same time for an intimate stomp-off. It was inbetween the OCD and the Radial Texas for tone. I went with the Texas for the 2 level flexibility.
ajs
on 03/08/2009
I replaced the V1 12AX7 with a 5751 to take some edge off the drive channel, and am really happy with it, particularly with my Strat. Tried a few other tube mods but this was the one that mattered.
Matti
on 08/12/2008
I restored C6 and C7 and now the mid pot works again. Is this cap modding worth the trouble? In my opinion - no. The improvement in the sound is very very little after all. Maybe biasing the tubes have more effect. In my case changing the speaker to Eminence Tonker made a bigger difference than a few caps. Also the OD channel lacks bass and is somehow very compressed and crispy. My solution to that was to get Fulltone OCD and skip the OD channel completely. Plan B would be to convert the whole amp to a P2P circuit and use somekind of amp kit like a Mesa clone.
Matti
on 08/04/2008
I tried these mods except bias control. There is a bit more clarity and chime in the sound but the mid pot is not working anymore. Maybe I screwed up something?
Daniel A Henry
on 07/09/2008
super 60 mods are interesting. I have two of these and run stereo. The distortion mode on these is fairly useless after 5 because you lose any nuance or articulation after that but it is very loud. The clean mode is very sterile sounding and not loud. It sounds like the output section is not being driven at all which is something I'd like to see this amp start to do after, say, 7 or 8. Any ideas or mods that will get this amp there on the "clean" mode? Thanks
hotwirehenry@mac.com I built amps for Mike Holland a while back.
Gtr_Tech
on 06/23/2008
If you tell him to install the bias trim control, I'd be telling him how to use it as to not get him in a red plate situation.



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