December 2011 \ Tech Tips \ DIY Desk \ 20 Steps to a Kinder, Gentler Frankenaxe

20 Steps to a Kinder, Gentler Frankenaxe

Aubrey Singer

In the spirit of Eddie Van Halen, some tips on creating your own unique tone monster (but with more trial and less error).


Premier Guitar December 2011

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Everyone knows he changed the way we play the instrument. But it’s less celebrated that Eddie Van Halen first changed the instrument itself. By cobbling together the limbs and innards of dead gear, he gave the Strat new life, turning it into a fire-breathing metal monster—a new species, known as the FatStrat. He dared to tinker. And in doing so, he revealed that the wizard behind the pickguard is merely a few wires and solder—not so mysterious after all. Today, Van Halen’s “Frankenstein” is a representation of his ascendancy into rock stardom, and subsequent transformation into a brand, with replicas fetching more than $20,000. It’s a testament to the power of trial and error (not to mention the failure of metalheads to grasp the concept of irony).

But even though Ed did it with trial and error, it doesn’t mean we can’t refine the process. Here are 20 tinkering tidbits I’ve learned so far, with the burn scars to prove it. I hope you find this helpful as you make your own monster to unleash on an unsuspecting audience without breaking the bank. Feel free to leave your own nuggets of DIY wisdom and survival stories in the comments section.

1. Get a good soldering iron ($30)

It’s analogous to playing guitar through a good cable. Yeah, you can find ‘em cheap (without the accoutrements), or you can get a pro one with holder, sponge, and temperature dial. Both will get the job done, but the more jobs you do, the more you’ll appreciate the durability of a pro model. Besides, they make you feel like you know what you’re doing.

2. Always de-solder ($1.53–$15)
Unless you’re starting from scratch, chances are you’ll need to remove old solder to apply the new stuff. I prefer de-soldering braid, but they also make cheap de-soldering pencils that work like irons, but with a suction pump. Be mindful of where you leave it when plugged in as they often come without holders and heat up like a mother. That’s how the castle burned down in Bride of Frankenstein.

3. Use 60/40 rosin core solder ($3.95)
It figures that the best solder would be made from the worst stuff—lead. Rumor has it that rosin core is scheduled to be banned, so get it while you can. Always solder in a well-ventilated area, and/or get a good gas mask. If the lead scares you, try heating up some McDonald’s fries with a burning cigarette. I’m sure that works just as well.

4. Use heat sinks and save your pots ($0.99–$5)
Small, copper alligator clips will suffice for guitar electronics work, or you can buy a larger one specifically designed for this application. Either way, before soldering, clip it to the component to draw excess heat away to prevent frying the circuitry. If using the small clips, remove them with needle-nose pliers to avoid battle scars.

5. Keep sandpaper on hand ($1–$5)
When grounding pickups and/or claw wire (for vibratos), lightly sand the hosting metal so the solder sticks. If you’re a fussy neat freak, ring terminals are also an option, available at RadioShack for cents. I prefer the standard method of using the tops of pots, now that I’m getting to be a better solderer.

6. Heat shrink tubing is your friend ($2.99–$14.95)

Sooner or later you’ll need to solder new wire to your pickup leads to extend the length. Do it enough times, and your wires will look like Slash’s head after an all-nighter. So slip ‘em through this nifty stuff and light a match to see the tubing shrink and conform to the shape of the solder joint, keeping the contact safe and your axe’s innards orderly.

7. 4-wire humbucker = 4 tones ($20–$150)
Why not swap out your two-lead humbuckers with newer 4-lead pickups? The extra leads will allow you to split the coils, put them in series or parallel, or change the phase with a simple $3 DPDT switch from RadioShack.

8. Practice on cheap parts ($20–$100)
You can get 4-lead humbuckers on eBay from Hong Kong for $20 and fully wired pickguards for under $50. Make sure they are open-coiled. If they’re capped, they’re probably epoxy-filled and unalterable.

9. Install a kill switch ($1.99)
Otherwise known as an ON/OFF momentary switch. It’s the easiest mod to execute (see our how-to here), and will help build confidence. If you mess this up, check with your doctor—you may be a drummer.


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Comments

(13 comments) display by
UsernameComment
4suremann
on 02/05/2012
2 mounting bolt USA strats Love Wilkinson bridges, a Graphtec nut and Sperzel locking tuners.
Aubrey
on 01/03/2012
Thanks for all the feedback. Another thing I've been trying out is solder flux. It's not that prevalent, but works great for solid ground connections to pots and bridge claws. Any thoughts?
Emmett Engr.
on 12/08/2011
I'll offer a few comments: Quality Soldering iron - adjustable temperature type - agree totally! I've soldered in the field using lesser equipment - makes me really appreciate having good tools. ON that, a set of medium duty tweezers, round nose pliers and and quality wire strippers are a must as well. 60/40 solder is not the best choice. 63/37 is better from a reliability standpoint (basis: 29 years building electronics for the US Govt). Been fixing guitars a few years longer. If you turn Potentiometers all the way down before soldering, you further cut your risk of damage. I agree that Heat sinks are a good idea, particularly for beginners. A fiberglass burnishing brush is better than sandpaper. If you sand all the way through nickel plating, it will rust. These can be purchased at most Electronics supply sources. Great for getting reliable ground connections to potentiometers, switches and bridge claws. Floyd Rose bridges as the most misunderstood object on a guitar. Don't use them myself, but I work on them a lot. For Am Std Strats , the Wilkinson VS100 is a great upgrade. Locking screw on saddles provides great sustain and eliminates one degree of freedom that affects tuning. Bridge surfaces are designed for correct implementation of kinematic positionng. Add an LSR roller nut (will make tone brighter) and you have a non-locking guitar that's nearly as stable as a Floyd. My #1 guitar is set up this way and stays in tune better than enything else I have in the rack. My customers that play locking trems are amazed. Learn to solder. Both components have to get to solder melting temperature. A bridge (small blob) of solder promotes quick heat transfer). Let the solder flow and cool undisturbed. Keep the iron on just long enough to get proper solder flow into the joint then get off it. (Rosin) Flux is a necessary evil if you want smooth, solid joints. Isopropyl Alcohol removes flux reasonably well. See also comments on potentiometers above.
Jon T.
on 12/08/2011
Great article Aubrey,are you still using those kill sw's?! Hope all is well. Another tip is to try a butane soldering iron some Radio Shack stores carry them, it helps in those tight spaces.
GilmourD
on 12/08/2011
I have no problems with Floyds, if they're non-recessed and properly set up. My Frankenstein (Customwoods 5150 neck, EVH-inspired painted basswood body from a Fernandes LE-2, and a Gotoh Floyd with a Duncan '59 Trembucker) and my Peavey Wolfgang have plenty of sustain and sound great. That's because when you're not using the trem the bridge plate is sitting on the body (if you have it set up right).
Stager
on 12/08/2011
The kill switch is needlessly complicated. All you need is a simple on/off toggle shorting the leads to the output jack. If you want to use a DPDT switch as described in the article, it would be more useful if the upper toggle could bypass the volume control putting the guitar at full volume (useful for recording or tuning) by running a wire from the upper right terminal in the diagram to the master volume input terminal (from the switch), and keeping the upper terminals separate. So the switch would go: full/bypass(normal)/mute.
Stager
on 12/08/2011
Kill switch link: premierguitar.com/Magazine/Issue/ 2009/Dec/The_In_famous_Stratocaster_Kill _Switch.aspx
Ragats
on 12/08/2011
kill switch link: Join together without a space if there's a line break) http://www.premierguitar.com/Mag azine/Issue/2009/Dec/The_In_famous_Strat ocaster_Kill_Switch.aspx
JMc
on 12/08/2011
Wish the Kill Switch Mod link worked.
paul j
on 12/08/2011
I completely took my first guitar apart in 1986 to see what the heck was in there and have never looked back.I now have 15 guitars and almost all have been hot-rodded by me.I have also helped many people get a "custom" guitar that plays great.It is my hobby and my one true passion.Although I have never been in a band,this is mine and it`s not going anywhere.



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