December 2011 \ Tech Tips \ DIY Desk \ 20 Steps to a Kinder, Gentler Frankenaxe

20 Steps to a Kinder, Gentler Frankenaxe

Aubrey Singer

In the spirit of Eddie Van Halen, some tips on creating your own unique tone monster (but with more trial and less error).


Premier Guitar December 2011

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10. Save them phone cables (free with purchase)

Ever notice how electronics always seem to come with a phone or DSL cable? That stuff isn’t so useless after all. Strip it and voila: four strands of different-colored hookup wire! It’s not the most robust wire, but will do the job for small work. But don’t bother using wire from RadioShack or your hardware store. That’s meant for electricians, not mad scientists with musical ambitions. Thanks to the guys at the guitarnuts2.proboards.com forum for that tip!

11. Ask for directions (time and pride)
Speaking of online forums, you can find a wealth of information and support online, so don’t be afraid to join an online community before you start. Chances are, you’ll find an answer to every electronics question, no matter how lame. I’m a member of the aforementioned guitarnuts2.proboards.com forum—they’re remarkably patient with novices.

12. Heavy metal matters ($40–$100)
If you’re a whammy bar enthusiast like myself, check your tone block (the alloy slab through which you pass the strings). If the block is thin, the bridge is crap. Replace it with a steel or brass block. Or, better still, a titanium one, and say hello to sustaaaaaaiiiiiiiiiin. Ironically, titanium is not heavy metal, but the sustain it delivers is pure Tufnel.

13. Don’t fall for pickup sorcery ($10)
Don’t assume ceramic bar magnet pickups suck before trying them. You can find a set of Chinese, single-coil pups that are hotter than vintage ones for the cost of a three-item plate at Panda Express. Leo Fender would be proud to install them because they’re utilitarian and sound perfectly fine. Tone is a matter of variables.

14. Swimming pool or hot tub? ($50)
Check the body’s routing cavity before starting a mod. If you’re modding a USA Strat, the Alder body will be routed for single-coil-sized pups. So if you want to install a humbucker, make sure it’s the right size. Or, buy a cheaper Agathis body with a “swimming pool” route to allow for any combo of pups and wires. Tonally, it’s like Alder, though some believe the reduced mass affects tone. Maybe, but on the flip side, they’re sausage-finger accessible.

15. Invest in a fretting kit ($40–$200)

A good fretting kit pays for itself in a single trip to the luthier. Check eBay for cheaper ones, or visit Stewmac.com where they machine their own tools, like the Fret Rocker—an absolute must for spotting uneven frets. But practice on a cheap neck, first. And don’t forget to file the last fret on the fingerboard. I’ve gone insane more than once because of that damn fret.

16. Mini-pots require big skills ($5)
Cheap guitars often come with cheap mini-pots (though not all mini-pots are cheap). On the one hand, they allow room for more switches. But they’re also a soldering nightmare if you’re not a whiz with an iron. I prefer full-sized CTS pots. And I now wear a magnifying visor (see tip No. 19) having blown my eyesight thanks to mini-pots.

17. Switch your switch ($15)
If you play a cheap guitar, it came with a cheap switch. Replace it with a good one. Check Allparts, Stewart-MacDonald, or eBay for good, American-made switches.

18. Avoid the Floyd ($50–$200)
If you own a USA-made Fender Strat, for the love of God, don’t install a Floyd Rose (like I did). They eat tone, not to mention the value of your guitar. Besides, you can sound just as dated with a good Fender bridge and some Big Bends Nut Sauce. (Remember that Eddie went unlocked for the first three albums.) Or check out the Super-Vee system, which requires no extra routing and can be removed at anytime to revert to your stock setup. If you have a Floyd, replace the tone block with a brass or titanium one from Floyd Upgrades, or K-T-S.com. “And watch your sustain go to eleven,” claims Nigel Tufnel.

19. Get a magnifying visor ($5–$25)

Yeah, you look like a dork, but boy does it make a difference in tight spaces. The fancier ones come with LED lights, too. If someone catches you wearing it, tell them you’re auditioning for Devo.

20. Remember how it all started (free)
Always refer back to Eddie’s Frankenstein for inspiration. It’s a testament to the fact that you don’t need to know what you’re doing to know what you’re doing. And who knows? Maybe one day, a repro of your hunk of junk will fetch $20,000.


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Comments

(13 comments) display by
UsernameComment
4suremann
on 02/05/2012
2 mounting bolt USA strats Love Wilkinson bridges, a Graphtec nut and Sperzel locking tuners.
Aubrey
on 01/03/2012
Thanks for all the feedback. Another thing I've been trying out is solder flux. It's not that prevalent, but works great for solid ground connections to pots and bridge claws. Any thoughts?
Emmett Engr.
on 12/08/2011
I'll offer a few comments: Quality Soldering iron - adjustable temperature type - agree totally! I've soldered in the field using lesser equipment - makes me really appreciate having good tools. ON that, a set of medium duty tweezers, round nose pliers and and quality wire strippers are a must as well. 60/40 solder is not the best choice. 63/37 is better from a reliability standpoint (basis: 29 years building electronics for the US Govt). Been fixing guitars a few years longer. If you turn Potentiometers all the way down before soldering, you further cut your risk of damage. I agree that Heat sinks are a good idea, particularly for beginners. A fiberglass burnishing brush is better than sandpaper. If you sand all the way through nickel plating, it will rust. These can be purchased at most Electronics supply sources. Great for getting reliable ground connections to potentiometers, switches and bridge claws. Floyd Rose bridges as the most misunderstood object on a guitar. Don't use them myself, but I work on them a lot. For Am Std Strats , the Wilkinson VS100 is a great upgrade. Locking screw on saddles provides great sustain and eliminates one degree of freedom that affects tuning. Bridge surfaces are designed for correct implementation of kinematic positionng. Add an LSR roller nut (will make tone brighter) and you have a non-locking guitar that's nearly as stable as a Floyd. My #1 guitar is set up this way and stays in tune better than enything else I have in the rack. My customers that play locking trems are amazed. Learn to solder. Both components have to get to solder melting temperature. A bridge (small blob) of solder promotes quick heat transfer). Let the solder flow and cool undisturbed. Keep the iron on just long enough to get proper solder flow into the joint then get off it. (Rosin) Flux is a necessary evil if you want smooth, solid joints. Isopropyl Alcohol removes flux reasonably well. See also comments on potentiometers above.
Jon T.
on 12/08/2011
Great article Aubrey,are you still using those kill sw's?! Hope all is well. Another tip is to try a butane soldering iron some Radio Shack stores carry them, it helps in those tight spaces.
GilmourD
on 12/08/2011
I have no problems with Floyds, if they're non-recessed and properly set up. My Frankenstein (Customwoods 5150 neck, EVH-inspired painted basswood body from a Fernandes LE-2, and a Gotoh Floyd with a Duncan '59 Trembucker) and my Peavey Wolfgang have plenty of sustain and sound great. That's because when you're not using the trem the bridge plate is sitting on the body (if you have it set up right).
Stager
on 12/08/2011
The kill switch is needlessly complicated. All you need is a simple on/off toggle shorting the leads to the output jack. If you want to use a DPDT switch as described in the article, it would be more useful if the upper toggle could bypass the volume control putting the guitar at full volume (useful for recording or tuning) by running a wire from the upper right terminal in the diagram to the master volume input terminal (from the switch), and keeping the upper terminals separate. So the switch would go: full/bypass(normal)/mute.
Stager
on 12/08/2011
Kill switch link: premierguitar.com/Magazine/Issue/ 2009/Dec/The_In_famous_Stratocaster_Kill _Switch.aspx
Ragats
on 12/08/2011
kill switch link: Join together without a space if there's a line break) http://www.premierguitar.com/Mag azine/Issue/2009/Dec/The_In_famous_Strat ocaster_Kill_Switch.aspx
JMc
on 12/08/2011
Wish the Kill Switch Mod link worked.
paul j
on 12/08/2011
I completely took my first guitar apart in 1986 to see what the heck was in there and have never looked back.I now have 15 guitars and almost all have been hot-rodded by me.I have also helped many people get a "custom" guitar that plays great.It is my hobby and my one true passion.Although I have never been in a band,this is mine and it`s not going anywhere.



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