January 2011 \ Features \ The Premier Guitar Pedalboard Survival Guide

The Premier Guitar Pedalboard Survival Guide

Joe Charupakorn

It takes a lot more than a few stompboxes, Velcro, and a carrying case to thrive in the pedal wilderness. Here we guide you through the common pitfalls encountered when assembling your go-to stomp station.


Premier Guitar January 2011

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  1. The Boss BCB-30 is a molded-resin case with a built-in handle and slots for three Boss Compact pedals or similar-sized stompboxes.
  2. The Road Runner Pedalboard All-in-1 Gig Bag measures 21 3/4” x 12” and features zippered utility pockets and a top cover that folds under to act as a nonslip pedalboard bottom.
  3. The SKB PS-45 measures 27” x 15” and features 11 power jacks (eight 9-volt DC and three 120-volt AC) and a hardshell case.
  4. The Gator GPT Pedal Tote Pedalboard with Carry Bag measures 16.5” x 12” and features a built-in handle.
John Chandler from pedalboard manufacturer Pedaltrain suggests, “Before even considering a pedalboard size or layout, line all the pedals out in a straight-line signal path and use whatever power source you plan to use on the board. Experiment by trying the various pedals out and seeing how they interact with each other. The goal is to try to get the cleanest signal path with every pedal off, and then on, in the order that sounds good to you.” Chandler says to be sure to write down the ideal signal path so it’s not lost once you inadvertently move something in the arrangement.

“Next, lay the pedals out in an imaginary pedalboard on the floor or on a tabletop,” Chandler continues. “Keep in mind the pedals you will be switching on and off more than others—you’ll want to keep tap-tempo pedals close to your feet and spacey weird things you may not use as much further from your toes.”

The Pedalboard Landscape
Once you’ve laid the stompboxes out in an optimal arrangement, you can search for a board that will accommodate that configuration. A good resource for getting a visual sense of how things will fit on a board is pedalboardplanner.com. This useful site features virtual pedals that you can layout on virtual boards—and all for free. Chandler has a useful analog method, too. “Cut a piece of cardboard that will fit everything, and then research which boards have dimensions that may work for your pedal setup.”

If you’re not a total pedal junkie but still crave a pedalboard’s conveniences, the Boss BCB-30 (Street $39, bossus.com) offers three pre-sized slots for Boss compact pedals (or those with an equally diminutive footprint) and comes in a self-contained, molded-resin case. However, the most common pedalboards consist of a flat surface covered with the “loop” material used in Velcro-style hook-and-loop fastening systems. The most basic examples of this type of pedalboard include the Road Runner Pedalboard All-in-1 Gig Bag (Street $39.99, roadrunnercases.com) and Gator GPT Pedal Tote Pedalboard with Carry Bag (Street $59.99, gatorcases.com).

As you move up in price, you get features such as a power supply and effects-loop patch bays. The SKB PS-45 (Street $249, skbcases.com) features eight 9-volt DC jacks, three 120- volt AC plugs for “wall-wart” adapters, and a hardshell case, while the Furman SPB-8C (Street $349, furmansound.com) includes eight 9-volt DC jacks, four 120-volt AC plugs, a stereo effects loop with amp outputs, and a wheeled hardshell case with an extendable handle.

The tricky thing with these types of pedalboards is that, because everything must fit onto one flat surface, it can be hard to keep things tidy and ergonomically practical. This is because the more pedals you use, the more real estate you can lose to unwieldy wires or alternate power supplies. In addition, footswitches on the devices in that row of pedals furthest from your feet can be difficult to activate without hitting the knobs of pedals in the first row. Recently StageTrix addressed this issue with its Pedal Riser (Street $11.99, stagetrixproducts.com), which creates an elevated surface for pedals to create room underneath for wires.

Pedalboard manufacturers aren’t unaware of these issues, and many take cable-routing considerations into their designs. Pedaltrain offer pedalboards in various sizes—including the PT-JR (Street $99, prostagegear.com)—and all feature an open-framed, angled construction that facilitates both easier activation of second-row pedals and unobtrusive routing of cables and power supplies. MKS Professional Stage Products takes a slightly different tack with its Pedal Pad MPS II Tour Series boards (Street $299.95–$349.95, pedalpad.com), which have a modular, stair-steplike design that uses interchangeable metal panels to let you arrange and fasten pedals in just about any configuration—including flat or angled.

Many pedalboards, including most of those discussed here, come with an option for a gigbag or hardshell case. A hardshell case virtually guarantees pedal safety, and it’s the only real option if you’re flying to a gig and need to check your pedalboard as baggage. However, keep in mind that a large board loaded with pedals can rival an amp’s weight once you factor in the case itself. If you rely on public transportation to transport your whole rig, then a gigbag is the more practical option.

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Comments

(13 comments) display by
UsernameComment
Bill Cook
on 05/01/2013
Jay: The compressor goes up from dirt (i.e. fuzz, overdrive, distortion). Like so: guitar + buffer + compressor + overdrive + chorus -> amplifier (-> effects loop: delay + reverb).
Jay
on 03/05/2013
Where SHOULD the compressor go? I mean, not where you, your buddies MIGHT put it for fun or experimentation... but classically speaking -- where is it SUPPOSED to go?
Patrick
on 03/05/2013
What's the point of showing a pedal order diagram if you don't know what all the pedals are supposed to represent?
Nige
on 03/04/2013
A lot of good common sense advice here, plus a bit of voodoo hocus pocus (yeah, dont buy cheap cables, but those George Ls are WAY overkill and just make the cork sniffers feel good about themselves) What is glaringly wrong however is the illustration above. Never put a whammy that far back in the chain, it cant process the distorted notes. Put it first or second, maybe after the compresser. Only exception would be if you have a germanium fuzz- those thingsshould go first before any buffering circuit. just dont use it and the whammy at the same time. Also the phaser- matter of opinion I know but I consider it a filter, like a wah and prefer the organic sound of it before dirt, not way back after the chorus. My 2 cents...
Matt
on 03/04/2013
“You’d be shocked at the difference in sound quality if you sat down and A/B’d different cables,” says guitar-tech Scott Appleton. No, I wouldn't. Try a double-blind test, Scott - I guarantee you that you can't hear a difference.
Grrr Noise
on 03/04/2013
' As for gear that’s roadworthy...like the Line 6 DL4" These phrases do not belong in the same sentence. period. ' Yet lots of pros use it: Minus the Bear, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Mastodon, TV on the Radio, Radiohead, Lyle Workman, Battles, just to name a few. I've had lots of boutique pedals break on me. If you're playing in front of huge crowds every night, sometimes being easily replaceable is just as good as being durable. Also, Line 6 stuff is so common that lots of guys do repairs and mods.
Brandon
on 03/04/2013
As for gear that’s not roadworthy.. the Line 6 DL4
alex
on 03/04/2013
"As for gear that’s roadworthy...like the Line 6 DL4" These phrases do not belong in the same sentence. period.
David
on 03/04/2013
all this info is really helpful, however... one important aspect of having multiple pedals that is NOT mentioned is - which pedals to route to your amp's input vs. routing them to your amp's send/return (effects loop).
Jason in Nor Cal
on 03/04/2013
Really disappointed that you didn't mention Salvage Custom in this article. Right now there is nobody on the market making custom boards like those guys!



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