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The StageTrix Pedal Riser units let you raise stompboxes in the second row of your
pedalboard for easier activation, and they also feature a center channel for neater cable routing.
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The Furman SPB-8C measures 28.5" x 20.125" and features a hardshell case with wheels and an
extendable handle, as well as 12 power outlets (eight 9-volt DC and four 120-volt AC).
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The Pedaltrain PT-JR measures 17" x 12.5" and features a lightweight metal frame that
facilitates neat cable routing and is angled for easier activation of second-row pedals. It’s also
available with an ATA flight case.
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The Pedal Pad Pro Series MPS II Tour Series Pedalboard’s two-tiered design lets you attach
your pedals (with Velcro) to individual metal plates that can be set flat or angled. Its hardshell,
carpet-covered case also includes the Power Pad II power supply, which has eight 9-volt DC
jacks and one 110-volt AC plug.
Attaching the Pedals
Once you choose the right pedalboard you need
to make sure your stompboxes stay in place.
Otherwise, you risk damaging your precious
investments. And for guys who obsess over tone,
it’s not just pedals that cost a chunk ’o change—
it’s also the specialized power supplies, patch
cords, and cables.
Although Velcro and generic hook-and-loop
fasteners have been ubiquitous on pedalboards
for a long time now, other solutions are coming
on the scene, too. Some players have moved
on to 3M’s Dual Lock, while products like
Godlyke’s Power-Grip pedalboard tape (Street
$19.95 for one meter,
godlyke.com) are made
specifically for keeping pedals in place. Each
method has its pros and cons, but when you
consider them all, which is the
best way to keep
pedals on a board?
“That’s a question that I get and wrestle with
almost daily,” says Pedaltrain’s John Chandler.
“For years, I have searched for the new holy grail
of pedal attachment. I’ve tried lots of materialsand
different grades of almost every type of
Velcro and Dual Lock adhesive-based methods
out there—and some other space-aged things
that ultimately led me full circle back to the
original hook and loop.”
“While Dual Lock and other materials like
it tend to hold pedals in place stronger, the ease
of use, ease of removal and wide availability of
Velcro has made it the preferred method. The
adhesives used on most Velcro products are
usually not as permanent and, therefore, are
easier to remove with minimal residue or damage
to a pedal. A lot of folks I’ve seen over the
years have chosen to use Dual Lock and later
regretted the decision when it came time to
reconfigure their board or sell a pedal. I recommend
Dual Lock only when someone knows
exactly what pedals they want and the order
they want them in—and they don’t plan on
changing them for a long time. There are very
few people I’ve ever met who are so satisfied
with their pedal setup that they will leave it
alone for more than six months.”
Godlyke’s Power-Grip features
multiple rows of mushroom-shaped
posts that interlock to create a bond the
company says is stronger than other
hook-and-loop attachment materials. |
Once you’ve settled on an attachment mechanism,
Chandler has a few basic steps he follows.
“As a rule, try to get the bottom as flat as
possible—remove rubber feet, pads, etc.—then
apply the Velcro to the bare metal or painted
surface. Many folks refuse to take the stock rubber
pads off the bottom of pedals. For example,
Boss pedals all come with that thick rubber
pad that folks are reluctant to remove. This will
make a huge difference in how well the adhesive
works—especially when it’s exposed to heat, say,
in the hot trunk of a car or trailer. The Velcro’s
adhesive applied to a rubber pad will have the
reverse effect when it gets hot and actually
reject its bond.”
Once you’ve applied the adhesive, Chandler
says to lay the pedal on the board to see where
you can get the most surface-area contact while
still having the footswitch accessible.