May 2011 \ Tech Tips \ Amps \ Turn it Down—A Guitarist’s Guide to Controlling Volume

Turn it Down—A Guitarist’s Guide to Controlling Volume

Pete Thorn

Pete Thorn talks about various options to control your volume, while still maintaining your tone.


Premier Guitar May 2011

It was 1991, and I was playing a club in Hermosa Beach, California. I was just doing my thing and having fun rocking out when suddenly, my guitar volume dropped dramatically. It’s always a jarring event when something like this happens mid-gig and all kinds of things flashed through my head. What could be wrong? Bad guitar cable? Amp blow a fuse? When I turned around to look behind me, there was the club owner fiddling with my amp to my shock and horror. “Hey, what the f#$*?” I yelled. “You’re too damn loud!” he yelled in reply.

This wasn’t the first time someone told me to turn down and it certainly wouldn’t be the last, though it was the first and only time a club owner had done it himself. It’s something we electric guitarists have to deal with constantly. Striking a balance between tone, feel, and stage volume can be challenging for everyone involved (yourself, other band members, soundmen, club owners, etc.). Fortunately, there are more tools available today than ever before to control the volume coming out of your speakers, while still preserving the righteous tone you’ve fought hard to create.

The Old Days
In the ’50s and ’60s, rock ’n’ roll was just coming alive. PA systems, as we know them today, did not exist. Bands relied on the volume coming from their amplifiers to project into the audience—and quite frankly, the whole thing fascinates me. What would it have been like to see The Beatles in the early ’60s? Could you hear the band at all? Up until the late ’60s, guitar amplifiers were all tube and usually anywhere from 5 to 50 watts. There were no master volume controls—you simply turned up the channel volume on the amp you were plugged into, until you achieved the desired volume and tone. As rock music grew in popularity—and crowds and venues grew larger—guitarists like Pete Townsend and Jimi Hendrix demanded bigger and more powerful amplifiers with larger speaker cabinets. The stack was born and 100-watt heads plugged into multiple of 4x12 cabinets quickly became the norm. The tones were awesome, and the volume was deafening!

And Then Came the PA
As the ’70s progressed, so did PA systems and guitar amps. The need for massive stage volume was negated with the advent of high power PA systems—you simply needed to throw a microphone in front of a guitar amp and, voilà, a 5-watt Fender Champ could now fill an arena. The only problem was that guitarists had grown accustomed to the tones the big 50- and 100-watt amps could create—these higher power amps created bigger, beefier tones with much more headroom. The challenge now was how to reign in the volume while retaining the magic tone.

As the ’70s progressed, so did PA systems and guitar amps. The need for massive stage volume was negated with the advent of high power PA systems—you simply needed to throw a microphone in front of a guitar amp and, voilà, a 5-watt Fender Champ could now fill an arena.

Master Volumes
The first Marshall amps with a master volume control were introduced in 1975. These amps allowed the player to crank the preamp to achieve overdrive, but still control the overall volume of the power section via the master volume. These amps sounded great, but not exactly the same as their “non-master volume” counterparts. Still, master volumes have become very commonplace on modern amps, and they are an excellent way to control overall output while maintaining your desired tone.

When You Just Have to Crank It
Preamp distortion has its own characteristics, and while it can sound great, there is something truly magical about pushing the entire amplifier into overdrive. Most amps have a sweet spot and the magic is achieved when the preamp, power amp, output transformer, and speakers are all working in harmony to create guitar tone bliss. Unfortunately, your bandmates or soundman might find your sweet spot to be unacceptably loud. Following are some ideas for getting your amp in the zone and controlling the volume …

Load Resistors and Re-Amping
One solution is to “load down” your amp using a dummy load, and then “re-amp” or “slave” through another power amplifier. This technique has been used since the ’70s, and it can sound really good! You can also add line level effects between the slaved amp and the power amp. In my opinion, the tone and feel of a rig like this is altered by the load resistor. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing since it can create a cool compression and bounce to the feel of the slaved amp. A downside is that you have to deal with the extra weight and bulk of the second amplifier.

Attenuators
An attenuator goes between your amplifier speaker output jack and your speaker cabinet. Its job is to absorb some of the amp’s power, thereby reducing the volume coming out of the cabinet. One of the first attenuators was the Tom Scholz Power Soak, first used by Scholz himself with the band Boston in the late ’70s. Many more attenuators appeared on the market such as the THD Hotplate, Komet Airbrake, and Weber MASS. All these devices will allow you to reduce your amplifier volume in steps of a few dBs at a time. Most guitarists agree that these units do an admirable job of shaving off some volume at gig and rehearsal levels, while achieving varying results at higher levels of attenuation.

In the last few years, some new attenuators have hit the market that feature a new design. Units such as the Faustine Phantom, Alex Attenuator, and Aracom feature a “reactive” design, meaning they respond to an amplifier much like a speaker does. This translates into improved tone across the whole range of attenuation, allowing guitarists to turn their beloved 100-watt heads into “bedroom volume” amps. These attenuators have been a godsend for many—turning amps that were previously rendered almost unusable by sheer volume, into reasonable gigging, recording, and practicing machines.

Power Scaling
Power Scaling is a technology developed by Kevin O’Connor at London Power. Power Scaling allows you to reduce the voltage delivered to the output section of your amp, with the result being reduced volume and quicker breakup. It’s a relatively new and promising technology, and you can find it in amplifiers from Suhr, Reinhardt, Soultone, and others. A huge advantage of Power Scaling is that it’s completely contained within the amplifier itself.

What’s Right for You?
You really have to try all these approaches to see what works with your setup. I use all of them to varying degrees, and in the case of my Suhr Badger amps, I use three of these methods together. The Badger has Power Scaling and a master volume, and I use it through the Faustine Phantom attenuator when recording, employing all three methods of attenuation in small degrees, to achieve the perfect tone and volume. Good luck on your quest for tone and the perfect volume level for your situation!



Pete Thorn is a Los Angeles-based guitarist, currently touring with Melissa Etheridge. His solo album Guitar Nerd will be out in early 2011.You can read more about his career and music at peterthorn.com.

     

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Comments

(27 comments) display by
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david watts
on 06/07/2011
"When you are using your amp as a monitor, particularly on a small stage, you are competing with the loud ass drums, and it just ends up being loud"

I'm afraid I have to respectfully disagre Tim. In 30 years experience runinng small/medium gig sound, I have never seen an unamplified drummer who was so loud that you couldent hear a normal sized guitar amp over the drums FROM WHERE THE AUDIENCE WAS SITTING. The problem, to me, is that many guitarists don't understand how their guitar sometimes sounds way louder out in the audience than it does to them on stage. Ive found that closed back 4X12s are the worst for this. They almost seem to "beam" sound in a narrow wedge. The guitarist, who is often at about 50 degrees to side of the cab can't hear anything, while someone who is thirty feet out but directy in front of it is getting their ears creamed. The warning sign, to me, is always when the guitarist asks for quitar in the monitor while it already seems too loud out front. Clearly, we are not hearing the same thing in this situation, but I don't think that increasing the overall volume even more by putting guitar in the monitor is the solution. Rock and roll bands managed to play cub gigs and sound good for at least 40 years before multi-channel monitor mixes became available in small venues. I did find one possible solution: One club I worked at that had a really chronic situation of guitar players being unable to hear themselves while they were too loud out front, finally put a long riser about three feet high and thre feet wide, along the back of the stage, and we insisted that all amps go on the riser. the reduction in onstage volume was immediate after we installed this. The guitarists had their amps directly behind them, pointing at their heads instead of their feet. It reduced the amount of friction between soundboard and stage considerably.

PS: I would agree that any sound person who disappears from behind the board for a
Tim
on 06/03/2011
>...likely to plug into a modeling multi-fx that then sends a direct signal to a full range PA. I have never heard anyone do this live and thought their guitar tone sounded good. Of course I have also seen guitarists with good tube gear and crappy tone. If you use you ears with any quality tube amp, you are going to sound good. Modeling and direct is much, much trickier. On the issue of being too loud at clubs, the reason most guitarist end up loud is less about tonw, and more about being able to hear themselves. The monitoring at most of the small clubs either sucks really bad or is just plain non existent. Also no disrespect, but many of the people running sounds at these clubs either have no clue what they are doing, or have sub standard setups that make creating a good monitor mix for all members of the band impossible. When you are using your amp as a monitor, particularly on a small stage, you are competing with the loud ass drums, and it just ends up being loud. I can't deliver my best performance if I can't hear myself. Add that to the fact that many times you have a short set changeover, and you don't get a sound check at all, and as soon as you start playing, the guy/gal behind the board disappears, and I am going to be as loud as I need to be. So please, let's stop blaming the guitar player for the loudness. And good tip on the iso cabs Pete. I have been thinking about trying one for home recording, but I have come to believe that the interaction of the speakers with the air and the room play an important and large factor in your tone.
Luiz
on 05/10/2011
Great post, Thanks 4 all ! Greetings from Brazil !
Martin Halstead
on 05/10/2011
Coming from the other side of the soundboard, i must admit to some doubt with the idea that "it's all about the tone and that's why I'm loud." Generally, when I've had problems with guitar players being too loud (my defintion of too loud is when I can put no guitar in the PA, and have to run everything else at an uncomfortable level to keep a balance with the guitar in the room), its because the guitarist has put his amp in a position where he can't hear it, e.g. shooting sound between his legs. Its not about the tone, but that the player thinks he isn't loud enough.
I have witnesed bands drive entire audiences away, leaving only their three friends because of their "tone" needs.

You really have to ask youself if you are a working musician or just up there to have fun, or turn up louder than your parents/landlord/neighborhood association will allow you to do at home. If you're doing the latter, stick to rehersal and save the rest of us our ears. One good rule - if the sound guy has to wear earplugs you are too loud.
Jupiter
on 05/10/2011
Any thoughts on this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6f SkV8bpsY
Ian
on 05/07/2011
I was not talking about using a different lower wattage amp, but enhancing the powerful amp you already have. The item I could not remember off the top of my head was not a type of valve but a THD Yellow Jacket. These are plugged in between your power valves and the amp giving you a quieter and more saturated sound. It is fair to have an opinion where you don't like isolation cabinets, however it is an option you did not include in your article. The isolation cabs do take tweaking and of course some are better than others, whilst some speakers implanted in this scenario will give you more desirable results than others. For a good rock/metal tone I would want the largest isolation cabinet I could find so that I could push as much air as possible. When it comes to low end, note separation and clarity, the speaker being driven hard is just as important as driving the amp itself. I am not in the position to experiment with isolation cabinets much, but logically it is the future if we are to stick to analog technology.
MusicansHotl ine
on 05/06/2011
Burt, I hear what you're saying. Though, correct me if I'm wrong, the only tube amp you have experience with is a Mesa 20/20? Until you plug into a traditional nmv tube amp, like the ones mentioned in this article, I would withhold your conclusions.
Blake
on 05/06/2011
Ever tried the Rivera Rock Crusher? http://www.rivera.com/index.php/products /power-attenuator/168
Steve
on 05/06/2011
PS. I use a 5W Blackstar or a 22w Deluxe Reverb with a fun mix of pedals and mic the amps and don't run into tone or volume problems. I am very happy with my rig whether we are playing rock, something mellow or anything in between. Keep rocking'!! \m/
Steve
on 05/06/2011
One of the reasons we have fewer and fewer clubs to gig at is that most bands play at "concert" volume when the club is the size of a concert venue's bathroom. I watched a KILLER blues band completely empty a club because they were smokin' loud. The club went from a few hundred to the FOB (friends of band), my wife and I and a few people hiding in the back in about 45 minutes. We have lost half of the venues in our town who hosted live music (they just shut the stage down or now only allow acoustic music). If you need 100W to get your tone, please only play outdoor gigs or arenas, where ther is room for that much volume. Please don't hurt the business of the small venues that still have live music by blowing the customers brains out with sound. Look at the room, turn up just enough, ask if the volume is right and have a blast making music not just making tone! Maybe we can start a live music resurgence instead of continuing the decline.



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