April 2012 \ Tech Tips \ Tech Bench \ 5 Essential Jazzmaster Maintenance Tips

5 Essential Jazzmaster Maintenance Tips

Eric Baecht

How to keep your Jazzmaster rock solid on the road.


Premier Guitar April 2012

Working as a guitar tech with Sonic Youth for a dozen or so years, and now working with Nels Cline, I've become pretty familiar with the Jazzmaster and how to keep it rock solid on the road. The following tips are for road guitars, not necessarily nice vintage Jazzmasters used for recording or collecting. I'm all for keeping guitars as original as possible, but if you're taking it out on the road, occasionally some compromises need to be made.

1. First things first: Change the bridge!
If you've got a stock old-style Jazzmaster bridge, you know how useless they are with any sort of passionate playing. Fender has improved the bridge design a bit lately, but at the very least I'd recommend swapping it out with a Mustang-style bridge or, even better, the Mastery Bridge made by John Woodland. We put them on all of Sonic Youth's Jazzmasters and it really was a game changer. Even with the Mustang and Tune-o-matic bridges we previously used as replacements, there was a considerable amount of filing the string slots so the strings wouldn't slip out during hard playing, but with the Mastery those days are over. It's a simple drop-in replacement, designed to last forever and highly recommended!

2. If you use the tremolo a lot, you must lube.
There are many choices out there and I can't say which is the best, preferably a petroleum/graphite combo. Make sure your strings slide freely within the nut before applying it. Here’s how to check: Next time you change strings, take the strings you've just removed and slide them through their respective nut slots. There shouldn’t be resistance. If there is, lube the nut of the wound strings and then run a string back and forth through the slot until it feels right. This seems to be less destructive than sandpaper or a file. With the plain string slots, I might use some very fine sandpaper or Mitchell's Abrasive Cord, with some lube, to get it nice and slippery. Do this with every couple string changes and gradually it will (hopefully) stay more in tune. Also, make sure to get the underside of the string trees, preferably with the abrasive cord, or run an old low-E string under them.

3. Combat floppy tremolo bar syndrome.
This is a bummer with almost no solution, though some of Fender's newer designs are addressing this. For the traditional style bars, one thing we did in Sonic Youth is use a threading die to thread the end of the tremolo arm and screw on a lock nut so the trem arm would stay in place. Depending on the tightness of the lock nut, you can adjust the tension of the arm. One problem is this is a little destructive to the originality of the instrument, so you need to make that decision. Also, you can't remove the arm at all, which for Sonic Youth was okay because they could go crazy and the thing would never pop out—that's why they started doing that in the first place. With this mod you can't remove the arm when casing up your guitar but we've found it's not really necessary. Even in a hard case, just find the angle (sort of over the jack) that the arm will bend the least when it's in the case. Believe me, those SY guitars traveled millions of miles and it was never an issue. Always pulling the arm out when casing contributes to it getting "floppy" as well. More recently, Nels' main guitar had a super floppy arm and I didn't want to modify it in any way or change the Trem plate. I found the tiniest hose clamp I could find and squeezed it around the sleeve that holds the arm in on the underside of the tremolo plate. Not too, tight but just enough. So far so good! I'm just checking it every few string changes to make sure it's holding.

4. Consider the electronics.
If you're really rocking and the rhythm circuit is not your cup of tea, you could try what we did in Sonic Youth and get in there and do some soldering and completely bypass it, so you don't hit that switch accidentally and cut off your sound. Some players like to keep it as a convenient kill switch, and some folks really like the added tonal options the rhythm circuit provides—to each his own.

5. Replace your pickguard.
If you've got a vintage Jazzmaster with the old-school celluloid pickguard, these things tend to shrink over time and you might find it impossible to adjust pickup height as the covers are being squeezed by the pickguard. There are only a few solutions to this. On Thurston Moore's guitars I've dremeled out the pickup holes a bit to make them fit, but ideally you can swap out the guard with a new one.

Important: if you remove a vintage celluloid pickguard, mount it (with the original screws if possible) to a piece of wood so it doesn't shrivel up too much, in case you ever decide to put it back on your Jazzmaster.

As far as new pickguards go, the real Fender tortoiseshell-style is pretty passable, or another cool solution is an anodized aluminum pickguard from tone-guard.com. Sure, you don't want to lose any of your axe's mojo by changing the guard, but the whole point is functionality, and you've got the old one properly preserved in case you ever want to go back.

Bonus tip: On old Jazzmasters, the foam under the pickups tends to rot out. I've found a great replacement. At first, I was getting this stuff from a guy on eBay who was calling it "NOS Jazzmaster P-Bass Pickup Foam," but I found that it’s basically an adhesive weather stripping you can get at any hardware store. You can use it for all kinds of things, like inside the battery compartments of effects pedals.


Eric Baecht is San Francisco-based guitar tech who's been on the road since 1998. Most of this time was spent with Sonic Youth, but he's also worked with Primus, Queens of the Stone Age, Faith No More, Tom Waits, WILCO, and more.

     

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Comments

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UsernameComment
Cat MacKinnon
11 hr 28 min ago
i too have to question some of the suggestions in this article, especially coming from someone who seems to have worked with a ton of JM's. the stock bridge works fine as long as it's setup properly. also using heavier strings (at least 11's) is important, since this is what the guitar was designed for. even my Squier VMJM stays in tune just fine with the stock setup, and i've never had a string pop out of the saddle. Mastery bridges are beautifully manufactured, but expensive and don't really solve many problems that a proper setup doesn't already fix. another issue that the Mastery (and even Mustang) bridge doesn't address at all is the fact that they'll put your strings right at the edge of the fretboard: their string spacing is about 3mm too wide. it's not much of an issue if you're mainly playing chords or don't play way up the neck, but it sucks if you're playing much past the 14th fret or so. the Staytrem bridge is offered in a narrower 52mm string spacing which solves this problem, but it's also around $100 and it has to be ordered from the UK (it's basically the same bridge that's used on the Johnny Marr Jag.) but again, with the stock threaded saddles, it's easy to fix string spacing...and it's free. as for the "floppy arm" syndrome, that's easy to fix as well, with no threading required (and i think it's even been mentioned by someone else already): just put a very SLIGHT kink in the short end of the trem arm and/or use a pair of pliers to gently pinch the collet teeth back together. i know that JM's can be a bit more finicky to setup than, say, a Strat. but they're still easy to setup properly, with a couple hand-tools and about half an hour's worth of elbow grease (also: free.) people also need to be aware that JM/Jag trems were designed to be more like a Bigsby, so obviously if you're going to go all Thurston Moore on one, of course it's going to have more problems that might require unique solutions. but for most average players who unde
Jim007
on 04/01/2013
This article is nonsense! You just get a small file and groove out the low E on the saddle - takes two seconds. Raise your bridge up leaned towards the pickups and lower the saddle a bit so the intonation screws do not hit the strings. Then get a 1$ clear fingernail polish and dab the saddle (grub) screws. I've been playing these things forever and there is no reason to put on a mastery (cannot set intonation correctly as saddle covers more than one string) or a mustang bridge (string grooves do not line up width wise for jazzmaster/jaguar and you are stuck with strings too close or off neck edge) or a TOM bridge (strings will scrape and bind and break). My jazzmasters and jaguars stay in tune perfectly and I beat them and whammy them to death. If this author put the effort into the set up as much as strat players have to this wouldn't be talked about at all. I have had much more problems with strat tremolos and they don't stay in tune anywhere near as good as a well set up offset guitar. People need to stop the web-mythes. And btw a buzzstop kills the cool vibe and makes the string compliance higher (harder to bend).
Garrett
on 03/02/2013
If you have the blacktop jazzmaster like I do you can also slightly bend the tip of the tremolo arm in a vice to create an angle on the insertion tip of the arm. this way it creates two angles when you put it in to grab the sides of the insertion hole. It locks in place as good as a screw in arm and stays in place better than the arm in my strat which I have to forcefully tighten all the way so that it stays in place. With this "mod" (if you could call it that) you also still have the ability to move the tremolo arm side to side to move it out of the way or just take it out if need be. After a while the angle will decrease but you just bend it back again.
Bill
on 10/11/2012
Will Re issue Jazzmasters 62, 65 have the same warm sound as the vintage 62, 65 Jazzmasters. Are the pick ups essentially the same? Should I buy a re issue or save up for a Vintage? Bands like Sonic Youth, Swervedriver and My Bloody Valentine all use Jazzmaster.
The Chief
on 05/15/2012
What a bunch of lame-ass fanboys. A guitar only sounds as good as the person playing it, and will last as long as the person looking after it wants it to. It's almost like I've wandered into a Mac vs. PC argument. Different guitars for different sounds for different folks. Get over it.
Couch
on 04/04/2012
Jazzmasters are masters. No guitar, not a Paul or anything else, will ever, ever beat a Jassmaster. They are the greatest guitar on the planet, even with all the nuances. My Mexican Jazzmaster plays better; and is more fun, than my American Standard Strat, and both of those are half the price of a narrow necked, dainty fingered, small fretted Gibson that can't be stood on, or thrown out a window and expected to function properly.
Ed Roman's Ghost
on 04/04/2012
Joe, Les Paul workmanship? I have yet hear of or see even a photo of a Jazzmaster who's headstock has snapped off.
Justin
on 04/03/2012
@mike: The thing is when you work with guitarists who are as insanely aggressive on their guitars as Thurston Moore, Lee Ranaldo, and Nels Cline too, no matter how well set-up it is, the stock bridge isn't going to cut it for that brutal style of playing.
Brook
on 04/02/2012
Put a Mustang Bridge on my Jaguar...pretty stable and good from then on. But I have '66 Mustang that goes wacky out of tune...what then?
Mike
on 04/01/2012
Its a bit sad to see someone that has so much Jazzmaster experience ragging on the old bridges. When properly set up and the associated time and care taken to do so, they are as good as anything.



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