March 2012 \ Features \ How to Convert Your Axe to a Baritone

How to Convert Your Axe to a Baritone

John Levan

Although converting to a bari is a job just about any player can handle, there’s a lot more to it than just swapping the existing neck with a long-scale replacement. Here, ace Nashville repairman John LeVan walks you step-by-step through making yours sound spectacular and play like butter.


Premier Guitar March 2012

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STEP 1

1. When removing the original neck, guide the screwdriver shaft to prevent it from slipping out of the screw and gouging your guitar. 2. Compare the baritone neck with the original by aligning both necks at the 12th fret (the octave). Here, you can see that the 24-fret baritone neck extends both lower and higher than the stock Tele neck. 3. Warmoth baritone necks are licensed by Fender, so they sport iconic Fender headstock shapes and the heel is sized and drilled to Fender specs. To ensure a snug fit, we’ll remove the red sticker before installing the neck. 4. Before mounting the new neck, remove any debris, stickers, or tape from the neck pocket. This ensures a tight, secure fit for optimal sustain.

Disassembly
Disassembling a guitar can be fun, but before you begin, be sure you have the correct tools for the job—and always save all the parts you remove. (An empty pickup box is handy for collecting screws and parts.) Here’s the process:

  1. Remove the strings.
  2. Unscrew (counterclockwise) the neck bolts, remove the original neck, and compare it to the replacement (Photos 1-3).
  3. Inspect the neck pocket and clean out any debris (Photo 4).

STEP 2

5. Use a nylon- or rubber-tipped hammer to gently tap the tuner bushings into place. 6. Check that all the bushings sit flat against the headstock. 7. Use a metal ruler to align the tuner housings. 8. With a sharp-tipped tool (I’m using a soldering iron tip), mark the proper spot for a pilot hole for each tuner mounting screw. 9. To prevent the drill bit from splitting the headstock wood, countersink the pilot holes with a small Phillips screwdriver. 10. Check the countersink: You should see a small cone at the lip of each pilot hole. 11. Before drilling, check screw length against the headstock depth. 12. Measure bit width against the screw shaft and mark the bit to indicate maximum drilling depth.


13. Drill slowly and carefully into the tunerscrew pilot holes. I’ve used a red Sharpie to mark maximum drilling depth. 14. When installing the tuner screws, be sure your screwdriver is the correct size so its tip doesn’t butcher the screw heads or slip off and hit the headstock.

Neck Prep
At this point, the new neck has no tuning keys, string nut, or string trees, so we’ll add these components next.

  1. Install the tuning keys. First, use a hammer with a soft nylon or rubber head to tap the tuner bushings into their holes (Photos 5 and 6). Turn the neck over and lay the tuners into their holes. With a metal ruler as a guide, carefully align the tuners in a straight line (Photo 7). Still holding the tuners in alignment against the ruler, use a sharp-tipped tool to mark a spot for the pilot hole for each tuner mounting screw (Photo 8).
    Countersink the tuner-screw pilot holes using a small Phillips screwdriver to create a cone at the lip of each screw hole (Photos 9 and 10).
    Tuner mounting screws vary in length from one brand to another. Before you drill any holes, always check the screw depth against the headstock (Photo 11). If the screws are too long, you risk drilling through the headstock face or splitting the wood with the screw tip.
    Insert a screw into a tuner, then measure the screw’s length and width against your drill bit. Match the bit width to the screw’s main shaft—not its cutting threads—and mark the bit depth with a Sharpie or piece of masking tape (Photo 12).
    With the neck resting on a padded, stable surface, drill the tuner screw holes into the back of the headstock. Work slowly and methodically (Photo 13).
    Finally, attach the tuning machines, starting with the 6th or 1st and working sequentially along the headstock (Photo 14).
  2. Temporarily install a pre-slotted string nut. This acts as a guide for aligning the neck. In our project, the temporary nut will be replaced by the finished bone nut later in the assembly process. (If you’ve ordered a neck with a pre-installed, pre-slotted nut, you’re already set and can skip to Step 3.)

Tip: If you don’t already have a used pre-slotted nut, synthetic pre-slotted and shaped nuts are available from such retailers as Guitar Center and Musician’s Friend. Stewart-MacDonald sells bone nuts that are cut, sized, and slotted for Fenders, and starting with one of these and then modifying it for baritone strings can be a real time-saver.


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Comments

(8 comments) display by
UsernameComment
David
on 03/13/2013
anyone have info on converting a baritone to a reg six string?
kacman
on 09/03/2012
Jeeees...y'all act like it's rocket science. C'mon stubbyhead, really???
will
on 08/31/2012
I simply put a new nut (wider slots) on my tele and a set of bari strings......
Richard
on 04/27/2012
'Sincerely appreciate your focussed DIY article. If baritone guitars are a rarity in the USA, the manufacturers have treated them like an 'extinct species' in Oz. I intend to follow-up on your article with a completed baritone guitar conversion project. 'Love 'The Cure's' tone, too! Many thanks for some inspiration and guidance. More DIY's, please! Regards, from Sydney, Australia.
stubhead
on 03/02/2012
Hi again! Upon reading your baritone conversion article, I am compelled to offer a few suggestions. 1) Mr. Levan advocates using the same neck screws from the old neck on the new neck installation. However, there are at least four different brands of #8 screws that I have encountered, with slight and not-so-slight variations in shaft width and thread size and contours. I find it a good practice to keep the old screws stored with the old neck, and use a new set of screws for another neck. If you re-use the old neck with new screws, you may find yourself holding the neck in your left hand while the body merrily bobs around on the strap, because you used some "small" #8's on holes that were threaded by the original "large" #8 screws. Trust me on this. I would never, ever buy a used neck on Ebay if it didn't have it's own original screws (and we all know how scrupulous Ebay sellers are....) 2) I think it could be more clear that the four screw holes through the body need to be large enough that the screws turn freely - It's the only way to ever get the neck on the deck. Mr Levan says " thread the original neck screws through the neck plate, work them down through the body, and gently introduce their tips into the screw holes of the replacement neck." It shouldn't take work. 3) There's an old setup trick guaranteeing the best neck/body union, and it's done toward the end of the process. Mr. Levan says to tighten the necks screws a little at a time, going in a criss-cross pattern, which is correct. However, you can get the neck press-fitted to the pocket. First you tighten the screws just to hold alignment, then you should string it up to pitch (or thereabouts) and then LOOSEN the necks screw a quarter turn or so, and the neck will be pulled tight by the string tension. You may need to slide it a bit side to side for string alignment (works better on Strat-style neck pockets than Teles!) and THEN you tighten them fully. This can be done on
thatcatt
on 02/28/2012
Thanks for the article on the Baritone, Iam building One right now and the Warmoth bairtone neck is the best one to use. One thing to think about before you start to converting your guitar into a baritone you will need a new guitar case, Or a gig bag, Because the baritone neck is longer. A gig bag for a bass guitar is what I will use,
ed s.
on 02/21/2012
about time you guys started to focus more on DIY...afterall PG is the only mag with the authority to do it well and get it right! Thanks
Harrison
on 02/12/2012
Thanks for this, I've been planning on converting a guitar into a baritone for a while. This might push me over the edge.



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