Making Your TS9
Howdy! Hope everyone enjoyed the NAMM show and the new things
offered. We have a big project in store for this issue! This will
really take the TS9 to some new heights and hopefully some extreme
possibilities when coupled with future articles on new modifications
we have designed. The first thing we will do is make it true-bypass.
The hardest part of this is centering and drilling the hole required
for the 3PDT stomp switch. Dead center of the Ibanez//TS9/Tube
Screamer logo is about as good a description as I can give. It
will require you to dig out grandpa's 1/2 inch drill bit or and
a drill press if you don't want to make a mess of the unit. A
hint to getting the hole circular rather than elliptical is to
use a small block of wood or some kind of spacer under the battery
compartment end of the pedal. This will tilt the pedal so that
the drilling surface is flat. Drill from the top of the pedal,
not the inside.
Take a look at Figure 1.
It shows how we have installed the stomp switch at an angle. Your
next job is to take the Yellow input wire and cut it so that you
have about one inch of lead from the input jack. This goes to
what I call pin 4 of the stomp switch. (I count the pins of the
switch from left to right, top to bottom.) Next take the Yellow
wire that is still connected to the board at point #11 and connect
it to pin 1 of the stomp switch.
Next up is the same process for the output jack.
Take the White wire and cut it about 1 inch from the jack and
solder it to pin 5. The rest of the White wire (which connects
to the board at point #1) goes to pin 2 of the stomp switch.
For the last part of the audio portion of the wiring
of the switch, take a little piece of wire and short together
pins 7 & 8. This is the "True-Bypass" part. This
is the direct connection that prevents tone loss when the pedal
is off. Again, refer to the picture for a clear example.
Ha! You thought that was it! No sir, we have board
work to do. We have to get the FET transistors out of the way.
This is actually easy, just removing a couple things and adding
a jumper wire. First step, remove the capacitor marked 104 in
the upper left hand corner of the board. See Figure 2.
Next remove the FET transistors, diodes and 510K-ohm resistors
in the upper right hand side of the part. Lastly take the jumper
out that is on the top center of the board and find a longer piece
of wire. You will need to install the new jumper with the left
side in the same hole as the old jumper and the other side of
the jumper goes to the point right between where the FETs were,
in fact the top point of where one of the 510K resistors went.
See Figure 2 again.
Okay, the light is at the end of the tunnel! We have to get the
LED circuit working now. What we do is remove the zener diode
from the circuit and attach a wire from where the cathode side
was and take it to pin 3 of the stomp switch. Then we take a wire
from pin 6 of the stomp switch to ground. We usually take it the
short distance to the ground of the output jack. You will already
see some black wires soldered to the ground lug, that's the spot!
What do you do with the wires that came from the old momentary
contact switch? Keep them or use them for the jumpers and leads
needed in the above mod work. What do you do with the parts that
you removed? Keep them! We will use them in future mods so take
care pulling them from the circuit.
What is interesting about this True-Bypass mod
is that it will actually improve tone when then pedal is ON as
well as off. This is not always the case, but since we have removed
some parts that the sound travels through that don't really aide
the tone, the sound is better even when the TS9 is on!
Thanks for reading! Hope the mod work goes well and with little
Robert Keeley BSEE