How to get more drive with a simple mod.
Hello Ask Amp Man fans. Well, this month I thought I'd do something a bit different. Instead of answering a reader question, I thought I'd make one up myself! I mean, why not? I write and read my column as well, so that makes me a reader, too! Here's my question to me.
Hello Amp Man. I have two '70s Fender Super Reverb amps, and while I don't want to do anything crazy to them, I'd like to know if there's a quick mod I can do to one of them to make it different from the other. Maybe get a bit more gain or drive? I don't like a lot of hyper-gain or scooped mids and am more of an old-school rock 'n' roll kinda player, so what can I do?
Sincerely,
Jeff
Hi Jeff, and thanks for writing. Okay—something old-school and simple. I have just the thing. I actually did this as an experiment the other day to see what would happen, so I'll pass along the results. I wanted to see if there was a really down-and-dirty way to cascade the two channels of a Super Reverb to get more front-end gain from an amp that really doesn't have much, so let's see what happens.
Warning:
All tube amplifiers contain lethal voltages. The most dangerous voltages are stored in electrolytic capacitors, even after the amp has been unplugged from the wall. Before you touch anything inside the amp chassis, it's imperative that these capacitors are discharged. If you are unsure of this procedure, consult your local amp tech.
Fig. 1 — Once the wire from the wiper of the volume pot (middle terminal) in the normal channel is disconnected, a new wire is connected from there to the input of the vibrato channel at the junction of the input resistors.
The initial modification I tried was to take the output of the first gain stage in the normal channel and feed it to the input of the vibrato channel. The easiest way to do this was to disconnect the wire from the wiper of the volume pot (middle terminal) in the normal channel and connect a new wire from there to the input of the vibrato channel at the junction of the input resistors, which are attached to the input jacks (Fig. 1). Okay, let's see what happens. Turn the amp on, set the tone controls on both channels to the mid-point, plug a guitar into the normal channel, and bring up both volume controls slowly. The volume of the normal channel is now the "pre-amp" control.
The result? A bit more drive in the front end, but not as much as I would've expected. But wait, the signal is being loaded down by the input resistors, which—with nothing plugged into the vibrato input jacks—are connected to ground. Quick solution: Plug a blank 1/4" plug (no cable connected, just a raw plug) into the #1 input. This will open the switching contact and remove the resistive load to ground. The result is definitely a bump in gain, but let's see if we can do something different and get more gain.
Fig. 2a — The first step of accessing the output of both stages of the normal channel before it enters the phase inverter and output section of the amp is finding the blue wire indicated and disconnecting it from the resistor.
The next attempt will use both gain stages of the normal channel. This starts with removing the new wire we installed and reconnecting the volume wiper to its original connection. Next, we'll access the output of both stages of the normal channel before it enters the phase inverter and output section of the amp. This is quite easy because the wire is handily accessible and long enough to use to complete the mod. Find the blue wire indicated (Fig. 2a) and disconnect it from the resistor. Next, connect it to the same pair of resistors in the previous modification (Fig. 2b). Now let's see what we have.
Fig. 2b — The next step is connecting it to the same pair of resistors in the previous modification.
With the same settings as before, there is substantially more gain. Enough to put it into metal territory? Far from it. Is it a great-sounding overdrive? Not really, but after twisting knobs for a few minutes (Fig. 3) with my P-90 equipped Tele plugged in, I found myself playing early Santana licks, because it actually sounded very similar to the early Carlos tone. Unless I was in a Santana tribute band, it's not something I would use all night, but it was a fun little experiment.
Fig. 3 — Before closing the amp, test your work. After twisting knobs for a few minutes with a P-90 equipped Tele plugged in, the author was able to conjure up an early Carlos Santana tone.
You could even make this switchable if you like. Simply install a SPDT (single pole double throw) switch in the amp somewhere and connect the signal wire from channel 1 to the center terminal. Next, connect a wire to one of the remaining terminals and attach the other end to the two input resistors. Connect a wire to the last terminal on the switch and attach it to the original location of the normal channel signal wire.
There you have it. Stock when you want it to be, with the option of a raunchy-yet-cool overdrive if you need it. Personally I prefer it to the push-pull master volume boost feature that showed up on Twin Reverbs and the like in the late '70s. And you get a few more benefits. For one, you have two sets of tone controls: one that controls the tone in the early stages and one set for the later stages. And, if you have a single-button footswitch, you can connect it to the #1 input of the vibrato channel and, as before, with the plain jack lift the signal loading from the input resistors for a gain/volume boost. Just make sure the wire on the footswitch is shielded. Pretty cool, and while it's not for everyone, hopefully it will make an amp that's just sitting around or needs a bump a bit more interesting. Enjoy!
[Updated 8/17/21]
Fender’s popular Hot Rod DeVille—a 60-watt 2x12 combo designed for portability and power.
Hi Jeff,
First of all, let me say I really enjoy
reading your column every month in
the best guitar magazine on the market.
I need to know how to “tame”
my Fender DeVille—it is the loudest
60-watt amp I’ve ever heard and I’m
not wild about the overdrive channel.
I can never get my volume past
2 before everyone is yelling for me
to turn it down. I’ve thought about
replacing the 6L6s with 6V6s, but
what I’d really like to do is put some
KT66s in place of the 6L6s. (Of
course, that won’t help me tame the
output at all.) Can you suggest any
mods I can have done to help me with
this problem?
From one Jeff to another, thanks
and keep the great articles coming
every month!
—J. Jeff Bissette
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for being an avid reader of Premier Guitar and my column. Glad you enjoy the topics.
The DeVille series is probably the most successful in Fender’s product line and the amps came in two incarnations: the earlier offering, the Blues DeVille, and the later version, the Hot Rod DeVille. The “updated” version was given more drive in the overdrive channel by tapping into an unused half of a 12AX7 preamp tube (V2B) in the Blues DeVille design.
On the surface this may seem like a good idea—make full use of a component that is already installed and give more gain to an amp whose predecessor may not have had enough overdrive to satisfy some rockers. While the result may have worked for some, it’s obvious by your comment that it did not work for you, and I don’t think you’re alone. To me, this is an example of “just because you can doesn’t mean you should.” Maybe this idea could have been executed differently, but in my opinion, the way the extra stage was implemented in these amps results in a drive channel that’s very “grainy” and not as musical as I’d like. You probably feel the same way.
Now I could just tell you to have your tech remove R 20 and R 25 and connect the signal input end of C 10 to pin 13 of K2B—but I won’t. In theory, this would bypass the new circuitry associated with V2B, but there have been a substantial number of other circuit changes compared to the Blues DeVille, so I’m not sure the remaining Hot Rod circuit would be satisfactory enough to be worth the modification. At some point I may have the opportunity to perform this mod and I’d be very curious to hear the results. But for now, let’s see if I can give you a few real-world suggestions to improve your amp.
Let’s first address your dislike of the drive channel. I’d suggest trying different types of preamp tubes, particularly in the V2 position. Changing the gain structure in the amp with alternate tubes could possibly result in a more musical drive channel. Since it’s the most readily available, you might first try installing a 12AT7 in the V2 position. This will reduce the gain in the last two stages of the amp prior to the phase inverter, but know that it will affect the clean channel as well, so you may need to raise the typical setting of your clean volume control.
If this doesn’t yield acceptable results or you would just like to get more adventurous, try both an ECC 832 and ECC 823 in the V2 position. Each of these tubes has one half equivalent to a 12AX7 and the other half equivalent to a 12AU7, but they are mirror images of each other. This means that each one will reduce the gain in the opposite stage than the other and only one, as a matter of fact, will affect the clean channel. Hopefully one of these tubes will yield a better-sounding drive channel.
Let’s move on to taming the amp’s volume. Installing 6V6 output tubes in this amp is not something I’d recommend. The plate voltages typically used with 6L6 output tubes would be a bit too high to use with most 6V6 output tubes. That coupled with the fact that the primary impedance of the output transformer is more than likely lower than what is recommended for 6V6s, I’d caution against it. And of course KT66s, being similar to 6L6s, won’t result in any significant power reduction.
One quick thing you might want to try is installing a 12AT7 in the phase inverter (V3) position. It won’t reduce the amp’s output power, but it will reduce the signal feeding the output tubes and may give you more control with the master volume. As far as reducing the power that’s reaching the speaker, there are a couple of ways to accomplish this. One is to use a power attenuation device of some sort, such as a THD Hot Plate, Tube Amp Doctor Silencer, Rivera RockCrusher, Tone King Ironman, Dr. Z Air Brake, and Alessandro Muzzle. Inserted between the output of the amp and the speaker, these devices allow you to adjust your amp to the settings that sound and feel the best, and then attenuate the amount of power being sent to the speaker. This lets you control the overall volume. Some players get creative and mount these devices in the back of their combo, so the unit is always connected and ready to go.
Another way to reduce the output power of your amp is to use a device called a Yellow Jacket, which is designed by THD Electronics. These adaptors plug into the output sockets of your amplifier and convert the output tubes from the current 6L6s to EL84s. Doing this will reduce the output power of your amp from 60 watts to approximately 20-30 watts. This should provide a much more manageable power for smaller venues. However, this will also change the amp’s sound. While 6L6s have an open, glassy tone, EL84s tend to be more compressed with a bit more midrange and less highs. Depending on what you’re looking for, this could actually be an added benefit.
Well, there you have it—some simple, player-friendly possibilities to tame your amp. I hope one of them helps make your DeVille divine.
[Updated 12/12/21]