Unique, high-end guitar tuners and replacement parts offer new levels of customization for modern players.
In my previous installment of Acoustic Soundboard, I explored the significance of tuners, their replacement options, and the importance of preserving the authenticity of vintage guitars. I also delved into acceptable choices for both new and vintage guitars, as well as the considerations for custom boutique instruments. This time, let’s dig a bit deeper on boutique tuners and how to properly outfit a custom guitar.
When commissioning a custom boutique guitar, it’s crucial to heed the guidance of your luthier. Understanding their preferred building style and the desired tonal characteristics they aim to achieve is paramount. As a responsible builder, my focus lies not in reinventing the wheel, but rather on tone, responsiveness, and providing warranties. For my personal line of guitars, I opt for Waverly tuners due to their lightweight properties and vintage aesthetic. With their small footprint, these tuners align perfectly with the tonal objectives I strive for.
Modern tuners have evolved from the original sealed Grover tuners that entered the market in the mid 1960s. Compared to the bulky and weighty original Grovers, the newer versions are significantly smaller, a design that many players find more desirable. Over the years, I have extensively used two reputable brands: Schaller and Gotoh. Their outstanding quality, desirable weight, and sealed construction make them favorites amongst many manufacturers and musicians. The precise, squared styling of Schaller tuners and the organic, rounded design of Gotoh tuners offer distinct options.
But luxury bespoke tuners have also gained popularity within the custom guitar and boutique instrument communities. These tuners boast unique styles, with each manufacturer offering their own aesthetic. Offerings from Rodgers Tuning Machines, for example, have garnered attention among my contemporaries for their quality construction, distinct styling, and custom engravings. However, these high-end tuners can get quite expensive, with some sets exceeding a thousand dollars. While undeniably excellent in their performance and craftsmanship, one has to weigh the price against the benefits—most other lower-priced tuners can undoubtedly get the job done.
“While undeniably excellent in their performance and craftsmanship, one has to weigh the price against the benefits—most other lower-priced tuners can undoubtedly get the job done.”
In the realm of aftermarket replacement tuners, our industry has made notable strides in providing alternative options. Grover offers a solid choice with the reintroduction of their Sta-Tite tuners, while numerous manufacturers now produce replicas of these sought-after machines, underscoring their timeless design. Plus, guitar supply houses offer a wide range of replacements that accurately mimic the tuners found on vintage instruments throughout the years. Many of these replacements also boast upgraded gear ratios (the ratio of the number of teeth in the gear to the number of teeth in the pinion, the pinion being the smaller of the two gears in mesh), transitioning from traditional vintage ratios to a more favorable 18:1 ratio—a preference shared by many players, including myself. The higher gear ratio proves particularly advantageous for musicians that employ a spread of alternative tunings during performances.
When it comes to repairing tuners, finding suitable options can be quite limited. Often, one finds themselves scouring through boxes of tuner parts in order to find the precise cog, screw, or post necessary for the repair. It can be a challenge to convey to customers that even seemingly small components can be quite costly, given the time and effort required to locate them. On the other hand, tuner buttons present a different story altogether. Suppliers have successfully replicated tuner buttons, catering to the needs of those seeking replacements for damaged or deteriorated buttons resulting from impacts or aging. Thankfully, in today's market, many proficient guitar repair technicians are fully capable of undertaking such tasks.
Attention and effort is warranted when it comes to the maintenance of tuners. It is commonplace for guitar techs to tighten the threaded grommets on closed-back tuners as each season brings changes in temperature and humidity. Open-back tuners necessitate regular scrutiny of the screws securing the cog to prevent tuning issues or potential hardware loss. Mysterious vibrations and rattles experienced while playing specific notes can often be attributed to loose tuner parts, an issue that’s often easily remedied by a simple tightening. So if you want to avoid these annoying hindrances, you should add seasonal tuner maintenance to your comprehensive guitar care routine.
Sure, variety is supposed to be the spice of life, but is it distracting you from your favorite instruments?
As the luthier and manager of a high-end guitar shop, I get to experience many fine acoustic instruments, in a variety of ways. Whether I’m selecting tonewoods from my stash for a custom build, introducing a customer to their next Collings or Huss & Dalton, or repairing a beloved ’70s Martin that has been played around a hundred campfires, there is always something going on.
As a player, though, I happen to be in a healthy long-term guitar relationship (or two), and I’m actually not looking for gear to buy. Don’t get me wrong, there are always things that capture my imagination: particularly rare or fascinating instruments, historical makes and models that I’m studying, a few potential investments to be scouted…. But the fact of the matter is that the acoustics that I currently own are more than pulling their weight.
For this column, and against the tenets of my chosen trade of MI retail, I’ve decided that I’d like to encourage PG readers to find similar bliss, be it with a single instrument or with many. If you are trying to find a way to stop chasing gear and find time to make more music (the thing that most of us are in it for), or if you just want to make more satisfying purchase decisions, here are a few ideas for you to meditate on:
1. Pick favorites. Most of us feel a desire to have a variety of instruments in different shapes, sizes, and tonewood combinations. While this keeps stores like mine in business (thank you!), we all know that guitar fanatics just want a rational justification to keep the hunt going. Whether we’re convincing our spouses or ourselves, having something different than what we already have just makes sense, right?
“Customers will call to say, ‘I can’t tell you how many (insert model or brand names here) that I’ve had over the years; I’ve never been able to find one that works for me. Tell me about the one you’re selling,’ to which I have to say, ‘Why, though?’”
The truth is that many players truly sound and feel best when playing a particular body size or combination of woods, and that ongoing quest for variety can be a major distraction. Using your ears and your instincts, you should aspire to find the brand, wood combo, or body size that you feel most hopelessly devoted to, and see if you can’t explore every last musical experience with it.
2. Stop the insanity! I won’t repeat the old “definition of insanity” platitude here, but it comes up a surprising amount in the course of my work. Customers will call to say, “I can’t tell you how many (insert model or brand names here) that I’ve had over the years; I’ve never been able to find one that works for me. Tell me about the one you’re selling,” to which I have to say, “Why, though?”
One thing that has improved dramatically in the last couple decades in the guitar industry is consistency. Some players hold onto the notion that there are mostly dogs and only a few good ones out there, but that’s more a vestige of the past. Time to look at the common denominator (hint, it’s over there in the mirror) and realize that if you’ve bought that same model four times in the last five years, you’re not going to get a different result next time.
3. Value your time (unplug and take that trip). Many might be embarrassed to add up the hours they spend on researching a purchase, from going down YouTube rabbit holes to scanning Reverb and eBay to perusing countless hot takes on forums. Due diligence isn’t a bad thing, but being separated from that potential next guitar by a glowing blue screen (or worse, a set of tinny headphones or the dreaded phone speaker) is never going to tell you if that instrument is going to satisfy when it’s in your hands, playing your music. On top of that, add the time spent waiting on the instrument to ship, the torturous acclimation period after the box has arrived, and then the possibility that a guitar that you heard on the internet might not feel or sound the way you wanted it to once it’s in your hands.
If you’re searching for a long-term tool for musical inspiration, consider taking the trip to a great shop that has a compelling variety, or is in a location with attractions that might help win over a potential travel partner.
4. The last step is acceptance. I consider the tips above to be reasonable, but music making isn’t always about “reasonable.” It’s about passion, emotion, inspiration, analysis, physicality, community—reason barely makes the cut! If your guitar pursuits and purchases bring you joy, especially if you’re still finding enough time to play, then that’s a great place to be. But if the restlessness of Guitar Acquisition Syndrome is causing you stress or eating into your practice schedule, consider slowing your roll, taking stock, and reflecting on how you got here. Some introspection usually puts us in a better frame of mind. Find time to be with instruments, not just looking at them online. Those will be hours that you’ll be proud to add up!
Thanks to its abundant use, it’s easy to forget what luthiers have known since the early days of modern guitar building: maple is a top-notch tonewood.
There have been many celebrated tonewoods throughout the history of lutherie. In the electric-guitar domain, ash, alder, and mahogany have been traditional choices. For acoustics, the famed Brazilian rosewood and Adirondack spruce have prevailed.
However, as regulations tightened and supplies dwindled, many legacy acoustic builders, such as Martin and Gibson, moved onto Indian rosewood and Sitka spruce. Because of this, from the late ’60s on, these woods continued to transform the industry standard. But our community has seemingly lost sight of a highly viable wood—the same wood that Stradivarius used to make some of the finest bowed instruments, and the same wood that has produced among the world’s most articulate Spanish-style guitars: maple.
“Builders such as John D’Angelico and Jimmy D’Aquisto followed in that tradition, inspiring makers such as Bob Benedetto and John Monteleone who continued using maple as a primary tonewood.”
At the birth of what would become the modern flattop guitar, classical builders routinely used maple to produce concert-level musical instruments. But as time has passed, maple has fallen to the “B-list” of tonewoods, where it doesn’t belong. Maple is an excellent tonewood that even has many advantages over other wood options.
Maple is readily available, especially when compared to its tonewood counterparts. Unfortunately, this domestic availability made it a go-to wood for many builders, including those who’ve misused it in lower quality instruments. Although this may have negatively impacted maple’s reputation, its accessibility is still advantageous, and maple still stands as an effective tonewood for builders with high musical standards. Unlike the exclusivity associated with some tonewoods, any luthier could have the luxury of building with mapleA testament to its quality, maple still remains a standard choice for archtop guitar makers. In the past, this included makers such as Gibson, who introduced the Lloyd Loar Master Series instruments that included the F-5 mandolin and the L-5 guitar which set the pace for the entire archtop world. Soon after, builders such as John D’Angelico and Jimmy D’Aquisto followed in that tradition, inspiring makers such as Bob Benedetto and John Monteleone who continued using maple as a primary tonewood.Recently, maple is seeing a resurgence in its use for quality guitar making and is becoming more accepted by consumers. This is mainly due to the high prices associated with typical tonewoods, like Brazilian rosewood, and the difficulty associated with transporting such exotic woods overseas. I’m a builder who loves to use woods like Brazilian, but some of the best instruments I have ever played were constructed from maple.
Maple is among the most beautiful-looking tonewoods, with some absolutely stunning variations, such as flame, bird’s eye, blister and quilted figures. Even though I am not a fan of quilted maple—due to its lower strength-to-weight ratio—I find most other options to be suitable for guitar making that I would play any day.
Galloup G-9CE, made with Michigan hard maple, finished in a hand-rubbed sunburst with nitrocellulose finish.
Maple also comes in many different densities and stiffnesses. Softer maples can range from wood so soft you can cut with your fingernail to varieties that can surpass in hardness some Indian rosewood, and hard maple can routinely surpass the strength-to-weight of other hardwoods. Remember, though, that regardless of whether it’s hard or soft, the species does not always dictate its sufficiency due to orthotropic characteristics. Boutique builders such as myself understand this principle, and we will carefully peruse woods that meet our criteria. I have had many sets of Brazilian rosewood pass through my hands that I would not deem musically acceptable, and I have also seen maple (generally hard maple) exceed the performance of such Brazilian rosewood sets. In fact, the next guitar I build for myself will be constructed out of figured hard maple I’ve had for twenty-some years that has proven to not only be musically competitive, but sonically outperform other options at many levels.
Another premier fact about maple is its sustainability. While it has to be managed like any other tonewood, there is an abundant supply of respectable, domestically harvested maple available.
Abundant availability coupled with new sonic rating systems will certainly contribute to a resurgence in maple. However, customer acceptability is a concern, and many guitar buyers are drawn to darker tone woods for back and sides. I have made many natural-finish, or “blonde,” guitars that did not sell well in the market. But when I made the same guitar and tinted the maple back and sides with a dark stain, they performed 60 percent better in sales. This is clear proof that the guitar-buying public buys with their eyes. (Maybe next time, give that maple guitar a little extra play time before discarding it as your final option.)
The bottom line is this: maple is a completely viable tonewood, and I am eager to see it employed to construct quality-level instruments and once again become a premier option. Additionally, I am hopeful that the market is uncovering what us wood junkies have known for decades—maple is just a great option, and a prime candidate for making great sounding, concert-level guitars.
You can reduce your fears about shipping your instrument by taking the right steps to protect it in transit.
Even if you own only one instrument, if you’re an active guitar player, chances are good that sooner or later you’ll have to pack your guitar for shipment. Although it’s hard for some packers to realize, the dangers of shipping your guitar by UPS or FedEx are essentially the same as putting your guitar on an airline’s luggage conveyor belt when you fly.
Of course, thousands of guitars are safely shipped and flown in airline baggage holds every day with no protection besides a hardshell case. But a significant percentage are damaged, too, so the tips you’ll read here will improve your odds. And even when a guitar is in its case and the case is in a sturdy cardboard box, shipping a guitar is risky business. Is shipping a guitar or flying with it riskier than it used to be? You bet. Is there anything you can do to improve your guitar’s odds of survival that doesn’t cost a fortune? Absolutely.
Although caved-in guitar tops and splintered sides do occur sometimes when an acoustic guitar is shipped, the chances of that type of damage when the instrument is in a sturdy hardshell case, especially when the case is boxed, are actually quite slim. And by far, the most common shipping damage to guitars is shared equally by solidbody electrics, which probably tells you that I’m referring to the dreaded cracks that appear around the base of the headstock. This is so common that it’s sometimes called the “airline break.”
What confuses many people is that, despite the fact that their guitar arrived at its destination with a cracked neck, the shipping box shows no damage whatsoever. Along with the mystery of how the crack could have occurred is the added misery of realizing that filing a damage claim with the carrier is usually fruitless, because there’s no sign of mishandling. And repairing the cracks are only part of the pain, for even with the best possible repair yielding a good-as-new result, the guitar’s value has been diminished.
“No matter what the speed your guitar’s case is traveling, the best insurance you can give your instrument for safe arrival is to limit the distance its headstock can travel when the case comes to an abrupt halt.”
If you think of it as a whiplash injury, the cause of the cracks to your guitar’s headstock is easy to understand. Your guitar’s case, or the shipping box containing the case, was traveling at significant speed, but then its movement was stopped abruptly. Maybe it was dropped, or maybe it was on a conveyor system and a jam halted everything instantaneously. The damage occurred because the headstock had room to move within the case, and so it did—resulting in a crack where the headstock curves down at the nut. This is much the same injury as when your guitar is knocked off its stand and falls face-first on the floor. Even nice carpeting won’t save your guitar from headstock cracks for the same reason.
Especially when fitted with cast, enclosed tuners with metal buttons, a guitar’s headstock is a heavy object, and its momentum is simply more than a typical narrow mahogany guitar neck can withstand. A set of metal button Gotoh 510 tuners, for instance, weigh approximately half a pound. That’s about a third of the total weight of a typical mahogany neck on an acoustic flattop. And, of course, the cracks almost always appear around the nut, where the neck is narrowest and where there’s a significant angle. This can also happen when a guitar, in its hardshell case, is left standing vertically on end. If the case is knocked over and the guitar lands face-first, that short drop is sometimes enough to crack a headstock because the barrel of the neck has far less room to move within the case compared to the headstock.
I could natter on for pages about how the dramatic increase in shipping traffic in recent years has resulted in far larger, longer, and faster conveyance systems for both airlines and shipping companies. But no matter what the speed your guitar’s case is traveling, the best insurance you can give your instrument for safe arrival is to limit the distance its headstock can travel when the case comes to an abrupt halt. You can add stiff padding behind the headstock, which functions similar to the headrest in a car, and supplement that with additional padding over the face of the headstock that is slightly compressed when the case is closed. The objective is to make sure that all of your guitar stops moving at the same time when the case is dropped or tossed.
Loosening the string tension is also helpful, but there’s no need to make the strings totally slack. Just tune it down a couple of steps. Packing your guitar in its case in a shipping box doesn’t relieve you of the need to pack the headstock as outlined above, because the same whiplash dangers still apply.
Perhaps the greatest advantage to carefully packing your guitar before flying with it or shipping it is that you’ll sleep easier when it’s in transit.
Chris Martin makes a case for striped ebony.
For many years, guitar manufacturers had the luxury of not using certain woods if they didn’t like the way they looked. It used to be that if a felled ebony tree was striped, it would be left to rot. Today, that is simply not an option, nor should it be. The choice to use striped ebony in making guitars has become an important one for us at Martin. Striped ebony is an ethically sourced tonewood that sounds great, is aesthetically pleasing, and, perhaps most importantly, is an environmentally smart option.
Some guitarists might be surprised to learn that striped ebony can come from the same genus and species as solid-black African or Gabon ebony, Diospyros crassiflora; the only difference is the streaks in the grain. When it comes to striped ebony, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. We have tried staining it to resemble the jet-black color most guitar players are familiar with, but the stains haven’t proven to be durable—inevitably, the streaks continue to shine through. In comparison to leaving the wood unstained, it just dulls the appearance and is nowhere near as beautiful. So, here at Martin, we are embracing the stripes that give a unique character to each instrument.
While cosmetics are very important, they mean nothing if the guitar’s sound is altered—tone and structure come first. In the case of an ebony fretboard, there is no difference in its contribution to the overall sound whether it is streaked or solid black. Fretboards are an integral part of the guitar’s sound and feel, and ones made of ebony create an excellent attack followed by a long, smooth sustain compared to other fretboard materials, regardless of their outward appearance.
In the case of an ebony fretboard, there is no difference in its contribution to the overall sound, whether it is streaked or solid black.
What makes striped ebony a sustainable option is how the harvesting of it involves the utilization of all parts of the tree. The streaks appear due to the species’ light-colored heartwood; by using the lighter color, we can use more of the harvested wood. Using all color variations allows for more lumber from the tree to be transformed into guitar parts. This keeps the harvesters and mills from scrapping more material and puts more money into their supply chain. Less wood scrapped means fewer trees are cut down.
At Martin, sustainability has been an essential part of our company for over 30 years. Each year, we donate money to programs for replanting trees—not just ebony, but many other species as well. We are currently tracking our carbon footprint and hope to be carbon-neutral in the next few years. For these reasons, we have been using the material Richlite for over 20 years as a sustainable substitution for ebony. It is a composite material that is produced in a carbon-neutral manufacturing facility, that has a consistent black appearance. Another option is katalox, a wood that is similar in density and tonal properties to ebony. It has a color that can range from dark red to deep violet, and is an excellent alternative to African ebony.
I think it is inevitable that all of us who make guitars and use ebony will have to be more judicious about where we use the limited supply of jet-black ebony available on the market today. I want to give Bob Taylor a shout-out for working on sustainable ebony, and hope that we as an industry can all move towards more viable materials.
After all, it may be the answer to an age-old adage: Don’t stripes go with everything?