Learning the differences between various cables can greatly improve the quality of your recordings.
Hello, and welcome to another Dojo session! This time I’d like to drill down to some audio bedrock and unearth the differences between balanced and unbalanced cables. I want to help you understand the differences and give you some strategies to greatly reduce noise (hums, buzzes, and static) in your recordings. Tighten up, the Dojo is now open.
There are many different connection types and gauges of balanced and unbalanced audio cables, and both are used to transmit audio signals from one device to another. However, they differ in their construction and performance, and understanding these differences is essential for achieving optimal audio quality.
Tipping the Scales
Unbalanced audio cables are the most common type of cable used in consumer audio equipment. This includes our beloved 1/4" TS (tip-sleeve) instrument and speaker cables, RCA, and TRS (tip-ring-sleeve) 3.5 mm and 1/4" headphone cables. The first two kinds of cables consist of two wires—a signal wire and a ground wire, while the headphone cables are in stereo, with three wires: left, right, and ground. Signal wires carry the audio signal, while the ground wire acts as a reference point. At the cable’s end, the tip (and in the case of headphone cables, the ring) of the plug carries the signal, while the sleeve is the ground connection.
Unbalanced cables are very limited in the distance they can transmit audio signals cleanly (preferably less than 20 feet). The longer the cable, the less high frequencies, and the more susceptible it is to noise and interference from external sources—like electromagnetic fields created by other electronic devices nearby (amps, synths, drum machines, outboard gear, cell phones, computers, televisions, etc.) and radio frequency interference.
Balancing the Scales
Balanced audio cables, on the other hand, which include XLR and balanced 1/4" TRS types of connectors, are designed to reduce interference and improve audio quality. They always consist of three wires—two signal wires and a ground wire. Note that while some unbalanced cables have three wires, the two signal wires in balanced cables carry the same audio signal, with one flipped 180 degrees out of phase, making them balanced mono as opposed to unbalanced stereo. Balanced cables are ideal for use in recording studios and live sound because they are capable of transmitting audio signals over longer distances (several hundred feet) without introducing noise or hum.
How? Without getting too technical, when the audio signal is split into two separate, identical paths across the two signal wires (with one being out of phase), and then recombined in phase once again, the resultant signal is amplified, and any noise that was present is canceled out. This includes 60 Hz buzz, hum (ground loops), white noise (thermal sound), digital clock jitter, and more.
They Look the Same, but Are They?
One mistake that’s easy to make is to confuse an unbalanced stereo headphone cable with a balanced mono TRS cable, as they both look the same and both have three wires. But if you tried to connect your unbalanced stereo cable output from your smartphone or tablet to a balanced input of a mixer, anything from the center of the stereo field (most likely the main vocals, kick, snare, and bass instruments) will be canceled, because the balanced input will sum both the left and right from the stereo cable, and anything common to both will be 180 degrees out of phase. Essentially, the balanced input will treat the center image as “noise” and remove it.
Can I Convert Balanced Into Unbalanced and Vice Versa?
Yes, you can, and that’s exactly what DI (direct injection) boxes and reamp boxes do. A DI box will convert unbalanced instrument level signals to balanced line level signals and reamp boxes do the opposite—balanced line levels to unbalanced instrument levels. If you’re unfamiliar with these devices and how they work, check out my Dojo video on how to reamp your guitar.
How to Reamp Your Guitar | Recording Dojo
Until next time, namaste and keep making your music!
Both the all-in-one Reamp Station and compact Reamp HP are designed to expand the range of recording options available for those wanting to reamp in a recording environment.
Both the all-in-one Reamp Station and compact Reamp HP expand the range of recording options and possibilities available to anyone wanting to reamp in a recording environment. The Reamp Station is a combination active DI and reamp device in a single unit. The Reamp HP is a mono reamp that allows use of the headphone output of any compact audio interface as the reamp output source.
The Reamp Station embodies the all-in-one original reamp design intentions of John Cuniberti, a groundbreaking engineer who built the first reamp box in 1993. Rights to his design were purchased by Radial in 2011, resulting in the legendary Radial JCR reamper. The Reamp Station brings together the JCR and an active direct box to create Radial’s first all-in-one recording/reamping solution.
The Reamp station is heavily influenced by qualities found in Radial’s JCR combined with its studio-quality active DI circuits. New tweaks to the active DI design in the Reamp Station include a unity-gain Class-A buffer switch and circuit on the Thru output, preventing any loading down of passive pickups when connected to an amplifier and preserving the natural tone of the instrument.
The Reamp Station is $479.99 and the Reamp HP is $99.99. For more information, visit radialeng.com.
This well-established, simple technique opens up a new world of sonic possibilities.
[Originally published February 14, 2022]
Welcome to another Dojo! This time I’m going to show you how to reamp your guitar and explore some creative ways you can re-amps other tracks as well (soft synths, vocals, drums, etc.). In my earlier column “Why Guitarists Shouldn’t Diss DIs,” I mentioned the benefits of using a DI for creative recording. If you have a DI box, dust it off! You’ll need it when I show you how to get more out of your DI-recorded guitar and bass tracks by reamping them into your pedals and amps to capture new perspectives and even add some new reverberant spaces. Tighten up your belts, the Dojo is now open.
To begin, you’re going to need a reamp box such as the Radial JCR Studio Reamper ($229 street) and most likely a TRS-to-male XLR cable (like the Asterope Pro Studio Series TRS to XLRs, $55 street). I like passive re-amp boxes because they don’t require external power and are easy to move around. Some would argue that passive models loose signal strength, which is true, but how many boost/overdrive pedals do we guitarists have? At least one, right? Put one after the reamp box and before your amp. Boom. Problem solved, and you can drive your amp even harder. Otherwise, you’re going to shell out more dinero for active reamp boxes, which isn’t really necessary, and I like the inherent lo-fi nature of this process.
Reamping is a two-part endeavor. The first part involves using a DI box to record the guitar directly into your DAW. If you’re unsure how to do this, I recommend going online and reading my Dojo article mentioned above. It’s very easy and straightforward. The second part involves routing the DI-recorded guitar track out of your DAW and into your reamp pedal. Depending on your interface, you might need the TRS-to-male XLR cable previously mentioned.
Fig. 1
Look at Fig. 1 and do the following: Plug the XLR end of the cable from your audio interface’s out into the input of your reamp box. Now use your regular guitar cable and connect the output of your reamp box to the input of your amp. Place a microphone in front of your guitar amp, plug that into your interface, and record-enable that track. When you hit playback, the DI track will play back through your amp, and you will be recording the amp. You’re now re-amping! You can make new recordings each time you change amp settings or mic positions.
Fig. 2
For even more craziness, check out Fig. 2. You can add any (and all) pedals (even entire pedalboards) into the signal chain. Get creative. But wait, there’s more!
You can also route any track’s output in your DAW to your reamp box and really start going berserk. Try your lead vocal, the background vocals, keys, and drums (especially drum machines) and listen to how it sounds. Reamping also gives you the ability to manually tweak pedal knobs and make dynamic parts that are really changing as the track plays. Try playing with the times and feedback amount of your delays. Fun!
Finally, depending on how much you are driving your amp, you could keep it clean, move the mic further away from the speaker, and start capturing more of the sound of your room. I like to do this on drum machines. It puts them in a real space. Specifically, your space. No reverb plug-in can get that! As always, I invite you to come by my website to hear and see these concepts in action. Until next time, namaste.