The wood so crucial for the incredible range of sounds available exclusively from a high quality guitar is, in many cases, facing imminent extinction.
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The most important thing however may be the one that we are all overlooking: the fact that the wood so crucial for the incredible range of sounds available exclusively from a high quality guitar is, in many cases, facing imminent extinction.
Fortunately, this is a situation that guitar manufacturers are trying to prevent. At the summer NAMM conference in 2006, Greenpeace brought together the heads of Gibson, Fender, Martin and Taylor, forming a group known as the MusicWood Coalition to work proactively to create sustainable resources and ensure that quality guitars will be readily available far into the future. For all of these companies, the MusicWood Coalition was not their first foray into environmentalism in the name of music, but it did mark the first time that all four worked side by side toward a common goal. In this special section, you will find all you need to know about the threats to the leading tonewoods, the efforts being taken to save them, and how four of the world’s biggest guitar companies have become the unlikeliest of environmental crusaders.
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Alaska: Disappearing Wood
In Alaska, the big issue is spruce -- Sitka spruce to be exact. Sitka is used extensively for acoustic tops and for soundboards in other instruments, like pianos. The wood is ideal for these purposes because of its high strength-to-density ratio. Its makeup is unique in that it is strong enough to avoid warping while still being thin enough to produce the best tone. The Sitka spruce is found in select parts of the Pacific Northwest, and in order to achieve the desired tones, the wood must come from trees that are 250 years old, or older. This so-called “old growth,” is rare – only one lumber company in the area has old growth in its forests. The company, located in Southeast Alaska, is Sealaska, owned by Alaskan natives. Here, the old growth of Sitka is being cut so extensively that it could be obliterated in 6 to15 years.
Currently, the area is harvested using 99% clear-cutting, according to Greenpeace’s Forest Campaign Coordinator, Scott Paul. Clear-cutting involves exactly what one might imagine: clearing an area with no regard for the age or type of trees that are being cut, and little regard for which trees are going for which purpose. By this method, a 250-year-old tree that could produce many wonderful-toned acoustic tops could end up lumber for housing in Asia.
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Central America:Devastation of Illegal Logging
In Central America, a similar situation was taking place with mahogany. Isolated in reserves, with little or no access to markets for the wood, impoverished residents of these areas had no incentive for managing their forests. Because of this, Central- American forests in Honduras and Guatemala struggled with illegal logging practices.
Without incentive to manage the forests, residents had no reason to object when logging took place illegally. It was not simply the act of logging, however, that was obliterating the mahogany forests. The logging was done with little regard to cutting methods. In addition, fires and the spread of agriculture threatened the trees, as farmers cleared trees for farmland.
Pending Solution Environmentalists and guitar manufacturers come together to help |
If the problems that face tonewoods weren’t unique enough, the efforts to preserve the precious wood presents an entire new set of difficulties. How does an industry that uses lumber endear itself to a community that is focused on protecting it? It certainly helps that in total, coalition member uses only 150 logs of Sitka spruce each year. To put the number in perspective, a single processing facility will process 150 logs in one day. This minimal usage, combined with the music industry’s visibility, made guitar manufacturers the perfect ally for groups like Greenpeace and the Rainforest Alliance.
The steps being taken toward preserving the wood all revolve around a complex process called FSC certification – FSC stands for the Forest Stewardship Council. Certification through the FSC programs involves setting up forests for logging based on the best available science, while taking into consideration all economic, social and environmental concerns. Greenpeace’s Scott Paul says that this is the best hope for keeping loggers, buyers and environmentalists happy.
Alaska: The MusicWood Coalition
The MusicWood Coalition is comprised of Gibson, Fender, Martin and Taylor, along with guitar companies and wood distributers Walden, Luthiers Mercantile International, Pacific Rim Tonewoods, North American Wood Products and Allied Lutherie. The coalition is a Greenpeace-run program with a long-term goal of addressing tonewood issues around the world. The program’s current focus is getting Sealaska to become FSC certified. If the forests were certified, the Sitka spruce resource would be a more sustainable one.
There is a long way to go with Sealaska, says Scott Paul, but progress is being made. Representatives from Sealaska attended the 2007 NAMM conference, which marked the one-year anniversary of the MusicWood Coalition. Greenpeace had been working in Southeast Alaska years before the beginning of the MusicWood program, however.
Despite the work being done, FSC certification has not been an issue brought before Sealaska’s board, says Juszkiewicz. “Sealaska knows that they’ve gotta become more green,” he said. However, FSC certification is a long, expensive process that Paul says will take at least a year to complete. Though the MusicWood Coalition has offered to pay a portion of the certification fees, the restructuring and changing of policies is a daunting task in itself.
Still, the MusicWood Coalition is hopeful that their visibility will draw larger users of the wood to encourage Sealaska to consider certification. According to Juszkiewicz, the music industry is useful for the more social and political issues, and “the intrigue of dealing with music guys.” MusicWood hopes that this intrigue will be enough to drive change.
Central America: SmartWood & the Rainforest Alliance
Guitarists may be familiar with the term SmartWood. Gibson has offered a SmartWood Les Paul for the past ten years, while Martin has made SmartWood guitars for Sting, and also offers the SWOMGT and SWGDT models, made with sustainable cherry and rescued spruce. The SmartWood program is maintained by the Rainforest Alliance. Working alongside Gibson, the Rainforest Alliance has transformed impoverished parts of Honduras and Guatemala into successful – and environmentally friendly – producers of mahogany.
In Central America, the two companies work together to train and prepare communities for forest certification. This training manifests itself in multiple different practices that promote sustainability. One such practice is harvesting wood from trees that have already fallen naturally. The actual logging is done without heavy machinery, and is transported by mules. Since the wood is being cut primarily for the guitar industry, trees are cut into blocks specifically for guitar necks. This minimizes waste, and improves transportation.
The incentive to change has come through Gibson’s competitive prices for FSC certified wood. Because Gibson is willing to pay more for it, the local loggers themselves have more incentive to harvest the legal, and environmentally friendly way. This income actually has allowed poverty stricken people to send their children to school, and improve their standard of living.
The programs have been so successful that Daphne Hewitt of the Rainforest Alliance says that they intend to move into South America to implement similar techniques, and that Martin and Taylor have also expressed interest in pursuing these methods for tropical hardwoods.
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The patent process can seem daunting to the unskilled, but this month we’ll be exploring some of the basic steps in obtaining a United States patent through the United States Patent and Trademark Office.
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Preparing to Apply
You might begin by asking, “Why a patent?” The basic concept of the patent is to protect your invention from being used by others without your permission. There may be many reasons to try to obtain a patent, but often it revolves around economic protection of your invention. You can usually do three things to generate a financial reward for your creation:
- You can sell parts or the whole patent outright, which is called “assignment.” This may seem like good and quick upfront money, but the risk is that you may be selling your invention too soon, before its value matures through market awareness and demand.
- You can license the use of your patent to others in exchange for royalties. Royalties can be anything that you stipulate and agree on with your licensee; money, land or even livestock! A royalty is usually paid to you as a percentage of each item produced or sold using your invention. This is potentially a good stream of revenue, but it may take years for that stream to turn into a river.
- You can do it yourself, meaning producing and bringing your invention to market on your own. Often, to prove the usefulness of your gadget, the market demand has to be proven by you. Who better to prove this than the inventor? You hold the total destiny of your invention in your own hands, giving yourself overall freedom – the downside is that you’ll bear the total expense and risk of the entire venture.
The only other reason for obtaining a patent may be completely self-motivated – just to say, “I have a patent … I’m an inventor!” No matter what the motivation, these are all valid reasons for taking the time to apply.
For you, a patent provides the exclusive right to exclude others from making, using, offering for sale, or selling your invention for a limited period of time. Utility patents protect your invention for 20 years starting from the original filing date. This boils down to giving you the exclusive opportunity to help your invention prosper, and to realize its full potential as a novel item. The patent system also spurs new creativity for future technology by offering protection to the inventor.
But before you rush to apply for a patent, you should first assess the potential of your own invention. Ask yourself, along with some trusted friends (yes, everybody signs a non-disclosure … even Mom) whether or not this is a cool and catchy idea, or, at the end of the day, if it is simply quirky. As tough as it may be, be honest with yourself and your invention.
If everybody flips over it and agrees that it may be an original idea, then you will want to take the next step and retain the services of a professional patent attorney. Stay away from the “all-in-one” patent/ marketing firms that promise to take your idea into the stratosphere and make you an instant millionaire. Many times they have ulterior motives which don’t involve you. During your hunt for the right patent attorney, do not be afraid to ask a plethora of questions, and be firm on seeing references of other patents they’ve been involved with.
The Patent Search
The next step is performing a “patent search” on your idea, which more than likely would be sourced out to a professional patent searching firm for a minimal fee. The search involves looking for pre-existing patents on file at the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) which may be in conflict with your invention. A good search might discover that your idea has already patented by another inventor, or it could find material within a similar patent which may be close to your design in some way. Fundamentally this exercise is to unearth as much preexisting patent material that relates to your invention.
However, you don’t necessarily have to outsource the search stage of the patent process; you can do a lot of patent searching yourself, if you have the drive and patience to do so. The USPTO provides a free online search service which is open to the world. Simply go to uspto.gov/patft/. Here you can do a quick or detailed search for any issued or publicly posted pending patents on your own.
If you and your patent attorney agree that the search was favorable on your part, meaning that no matching or similar patents have appeared, then the next step is to create a “disclosure” document. This can be a fairly simple text document with some drawings or sketches that best describe your idea, how it works and why it’s original. This is submitted to the USPTO, and simply kept on file. The disclosure is not examined in any way … just filed. This provides proof of your invention, tied to a specific date. If someone else surfaces claiming to be the inventor of your idea, this document will allow you to compare dates and see who was first.
The Patent Application
After the disclosure is filed then you can proceed with creating the actual patent application document. This is most often segmented into six parts: the abstract, background of the invention, brief description of the invention, drawing summary, drawing details, and patent claims.
I would highly recommend getting yourself familiar with patent lingo, mainly by studying a few semi-related patents found online. You’ll start to get a sense of how to structure your work for your own application. To the beginner or outsider, this can be a tedious experience, but it’s a necessary step in getting the most out of your case. Remember, the application process tries to prove that your invention is worthy of the prestigious USPTO seal, and it may be examined alongside hundreds of similar patents, by several patent examiners. Your case must be airtight.
Nobody knows your invention as well as you do, so it’s your job to convey the nuances of your design and function to your patent attorney in the clearest way possible. Try writing the entire patent yourself in everyday terms, providing sketches of your item with different object views. Don’t worry about grammar or the patent structures; just get the design and concept facts dead on. Your patent attorney will take what you have laid out, dress it up and prepare it in the proper patent jargon – drawings and all.
A word to the wise; don’t take anything as gospel, just because your attorney “told you so.” Ultimately, it is your responsibility that the facts within the application are 100% accurate, and that you are comfortable with all the application’s parts. If you are not happy with certain details of the application, get it fixed. It is your dollar and your name on the patent. Remember, the beauty of a first-rate patent application lies within the accuracy of the details.
The Examination Process
After your attorney files your application get ready to wait. The first examination process can take as long as 12-24 months. There are no guarantees regarding the first examination time line – you may get lucky and get a faster response, but remember, this is a tedious process. No matter how long it takes to get your first examination, you should receive written confirmation of receipt of your application from the USPTO within a few weeks after filing.
Eventually you will receive notice from your attorney that your invention has been evaluated by an assigned patent examiner from the USPTO. When the written examination arrives, be expected to answer many questions, keeping in mind that your patent claims may be severely challenged – if not flat out denied by the examiner. Get ready to argue every point of dispute in detail, proving that your invention is original. Your patent attorney and you have the right to speak with the examiner directly over the phone, or you can request a direct, faceto- face interview with the examiner at the USPTO, located in Alexandria, Virginia. Here you have the opportunity to present a working example of your invention to the examiner if he or she is “stuck” on a specific point of your application.
Whether you request an interview or not, the examination process can ping-pong back and forth many times between your patent attorney and the USPTO examiner, potentially making it a costly process. Be prepared for this, because it’s difficult to determine how long the application examination process can take, and every tick on the clock is another dollar. Don’t underestimate how much a patent can cost. Very rough estimates can range from $10,000 to $30,000 or more, depending on the complexity of your invention. This does not include overseas coverage, which in itself can add up to a fortune just in translation fees alone.
If all goes well, you’ll receive notification that your patent application has been accepted by the USPTO. You should feel good (and slightly relieved), as this is a major accomplishment of which you should be proud of, joining an elite class of inventors. You have struggled through the trials and tribulations of legally protecting your ideas through the U.S. patent process, and you’ve worked hard for your patent. Now it’s time to unleash the hounds and let your patent work hard for you.
Interested in patenting a new guitar design or part you’ve invented? Here’s a few sites that can help you along the way: The USPTO For over 200 years, the United States Patent and Trademark Office has been granting inventors peace of mind and keeping the process of invention rolling. If you are serious about patenting one of your inventions, spend a few hours (at least) reading through all the information here: uspto.gov Google Patent Search For those who like the simplicity of Google, you can now search the entire U.S. patent database at your leisure. With approximately seven million searchable U.S. patents, you should be able to find what you’re looking for. You can even download a PDF of any patent you’ve located. google.com/patents Invent Now Invent Now is a non-profit organization encouraging and helping inventors of all stripes. You can find a wealth of information to help prep you for your patent application, as well as a variety of inventor resources, such as workshops and continuing education. invent.org |
Though there are many, many factors that contribute to the sound of an individual guitar besides the wood, the woods used in a guitar are probably the most discussed component of the instrument, and they are probably the most misunderstood.
Though there are many, many factors that contribute to the sound of an individual guitar besides the wood, the woods used in a guitar are probably the most discussed component of the instrument, and they are probably the most misunderstood. Some woods are better suited to guitar making than others and there are two main reasons for this: function and tradition.
The physics of the guitar are rather delicate. The strings on a steel-string guitar exert a tremendous amount of tension on the soundboard, which the luthier hopes to have at an ideal thickness to produce the best tone. It’s a balancing act between structural integrity and the resonance of the soundboard. If the board is too thin, it will warp; if it is too thick, it will sound dead or “thuddy.” Ideally, the soundboard will not warp against the tension of the strings and will also vibrate freely when the strings are plucked, thus moving the surrounding air and creating a pleasing tone.
Tradition is a factor that is somewhat subservient to function. The Martin guitar company established the American steel-string guitar as the instrument we all know today. Their decision to use particular woods for these early, influential guitars was based on the factors outlined above. Rosewood was often used on many of their higherend guitars, simply because it functioned so well as a guitar wood. It is resonant, beautiful, stable and so on. Because Martin had such a formative role in the development of the instrument, rosewood became associated with high quality in general. The strength and longevity of these associations has engendered a tradition, though it could just as easily have been another type of wood.
When we say “alternative tonewood,” what we really mean is an alternative to the tradition of using certain woods in guitar making; keep in mind that rarely do these alternative woods veer very far from the traditional, because all these woods must be functional guitar woods. There are many reasons a luthier might choose to use an alternative tonewood – to carve a unique professional identity, to be environmentally responsible or to try and discover the next big thing.
In the following pages, we will highlight three of the most popular tonewoods: maple, rosewood, and mahogany, and the alternatives available for each.
MAPLE
Maple is the only wood used for backs and sides in the violin family so it is well known to instrument makers, even though a modest percentage of guitars are made with it. The fact that it is a domestic wood augments its popularity and it is often used on electric guitars, most notably Gibson Les Paul tops.
Maple with figuring is preferred over plain maple, but the figure has no real bearing on the sound of the wood. The figure is, however, strikingly beautiful. Most common is curly maple, also known as flamed maple or tiger maple. A bit rarer is quilted maple, a wood with a billowy, bubbly appearance. Plain maple (Rock maple from the East Coast) is often used for electric guitar necks, but Bigleaf maple (from the Northwest) and European maple (from the former Yugoslavia) are the common choices for acoustic guitar back and sides.
Maple is well known for imparting a bright tone to an instrument, with excellent separation – a guitar with good separation allows each note of a chord to ring independently as opposed to sounding thick or clustered. It has long been a popular choice on the Gibson Jumbo series because the bright tone helps balance out the booming sounds of guitars with a large body.
Maple Alternatives
It is hard to find an alternative to maple, although tonally many have had similar results with Californian walnut. Walnut is primarily dark gray in color and can also exhibit dramatic figuring. Myrtlewood (also from the Pacific Northwest) has many maple-like qualities in tone and appearance, though generally the sets are more varied as far as color is concerned, with brown, gray and greenish vertical streaks being common.
Another set of alternatives is koa from Hawaii and its Australian cousin, black acacia, otherwise known as Australian blackwood. These woods are among the most beautiful available, often found with a light, honey-brown color. They can combine vertical color bands with flamed figure, though flamed sets are becoming increasingly more difficult to come by. Though koa is technically not endangered, good old trees are few and far between on the islands and prices for the best sets are sometimes on par with Brazilian rosewood. Koa is sometimes compared tonally with mahogany.
Rosewood
For many years the crème de la crème of tonewoods was Brazilian rosewood. Brazilian rosewood is sought after for its dark brown color that ranges from chocolate brown, to rust or a warm burnt orange. Finer examples feature fine black line figuring and spider webbing. Some say the tone is incomparable; great projection, with strong, balanced bass and highs are its trademarks. Though this wood is still in common usage, it has been protected against import and export by the CITES Treaty.
The main alternative is Indian rosewood, which has become such a standard choice that it should now be considered a traditional tonewood itself. Basically brown, but with purple, gray and sometimes red highlights, it is known for straighter, more homogenous grain lines and a lack of ink-line figuring. Some say it is on par with Brazilian rosewood for tone, and it is far easier to procure and less expensive.
Rosewood Alternatives
There are a number of other woods that, because of their higher density, help create a rosewood-like sounding guitar, but do not come from the rosewood family. Visually, none of them would be mistaken for rosewood, but they are all quite attractive in their own right.
On the higher-end are Macassar ebony and ziricote. Macassar ebony is a black wood with dramatic blond streaking which creates a beautiful liquid or marbled appearance. Ziricote is grayish and features intense spider- web figuring and layered effects. Both woods are brittle and hard to work with, and both are expensive; however, their high density allows for great tonal balance and volume and the scarcity of well-figured sets adds value to the instruments.
The remaining rosewood alternatives are relatively inexpensive and easy to come by. From Africa there’s bubinga, which has a nice reddish-mauve brown color and often sports an interesting “bees-wing” figure that gives a nice three-dimensional shimmer to wood under finish. Also from Africa is padauk, a brilliant purple-red wood that oxidizes to dark brown over time. Finally, there is wenge, a very dark brown wood (verging on black) that some well-known builders, such as Mark Blanchard, have had good results with.
From South America there is grenadillo. This wood has a nice purple brown color reminiscent of Indian rosewood, except that it does not have the straight lines that Indian has. Grenadillo does have a subtle wavy figure, a bright responsive tap tone, and attractive sapwood centers are commonplace. It is popular in Brazil, but it is relatively new to American lutherie. It promises to become a favorite among steel-string builders.
Pau ferro (or morado) is well known as a fingerboard wood on electric guitars and basses and is coming into its own as a back and side wood. It is much like Indian rosewood with dark, straight, vertical lines except that gold, beige and brown substitute for the dark browns, grays and purples found in Indian rosewood.
Mahogany
Genuine Honduran mahogany has been an ideal choice for a variety of woodworking applications. Its cross-grained structure makes it unusually stable and easy to carve. It is a superb choice for woodcarvings, furniture making and pattern making. It is still the most popular choice by far for guitar necks, though Spanish cedar is widely used on classical guitars and maple is widely used on electric guitars.
Genuine Honduran mahogany was once in plentiful supply, but it is now nearing CITES treaty protection. The guitar-making world is struggling to find a suitable alternative for necks, but there is really no clear choice. Fortunately, the use of truss rods and graphite reinforcement in necks will allow the luthier to accept other mahoganies that are not quite as stable without any ill effects.
As a back and side wood, mahogany has sometimes been considered a “poor man’s choice,” but there is now a great appreciation for its unique tonal qualities. It seems that mahogany ages well and its true value may not reveal itself until a few years have passed. This is especially true when it is used as a top wood (Martin issues a mahogany-topped model from time to time). Mahogany’s trademark tone is a powerful midrange, with great punch and character.
Mahogany Alternatives
As far as stability is concerned, Honduran mahogany has no peers, but tonally there are some good alternatives. The best is Sepele mahogany, which features a very attractive ribbon figure that runs parallel to the grain. Khaya mahogany looks more like Honduran but is generally softer, so it is important to find dense logs when cutting for guitar material.
Outside of the mahogany species, lacewood is the most exciting alternative. According to John Greven, a luthier who has built hundreds of guitars in his career and who has a great respect for vintage Martins, lacewood has the rare ability to impart the tone of a well-aged Martin mahogany guitar to a brand-new instrument. Fruit tree woods, most notably cherry and pear, sometimes draw comparisons to mahogany.
Where to Now?
Remember, each piece of wood is different and what each luthier does with the wood is unique. You can read about woods all you want, and you can tap and flex the individual pieces to test their tonality, but you will learn far more by playing the instruments themselves. Keep an open mind when searching for a new guitar, or when having one custom built. What a luthier might suggest may surprise you. Though tradition may direct you to select a guitar made out of this or that wood, your dream guitar may very well be born of a unique, and heretofore unheard of tree!
Elements of this article first appeared in Mel Bay Publications’ Guitar Sessions webzine at guitarsessions.com.
Chris Herrod is a Sales Manager for Luthiers Mercantile, Int’l