Here’s part two of our look under the hood of the funky rhythm guitar master’s signature 6-string.
Hello and welcome back to Mod Garage. In this edition, we’re continuing our journey through the Fender Cory Wong Stratocaster wiring, bringing it all together.In the previous installment, the last feature on the funky 6-stringer’s signature axe that we discussed was the master volume pot and the corresponding treble-bleed circuit. Now, let’s continue with this guitar’s very special configuration of the tone pots.
Tone pot with Fender Greasebucket tone system:
This 250k tone pot is a standard CTS pot with a 90/10 audio taper found in all U.S.-built Fender guitars. The Cory Wong guitar uses the Fender Greasebucket system, which is added to the pot as a ready-to-solder PCB. The Greasebucket PCB is also available individually from Fender (part #7713546000), though you can use conventional electronic parts for this.
Fender introduced this feature in 2005 on some of the Highway One models and some assorted Custom Shop Strats. The Greasebucket name (which is a registered Fender trademark, by the way) is my favorite of Fender’s marketing names, but don’t let it fool you: Your tone will get cleaner with this modification, not greasy and dirty.
According to Fender, the Greasebucket tone circuit reduces high frequencies without adding bass as the tone knob is turned down. Don’t let that description confuse you. A standard Strat tone control does not add any bass frequencies! As you already know, with a passive system you can’t add anything that isn’t already there. You can reshape the tone by deemphasizing certain frequencies and making others more prominent. Removing highs makes lows more apparent and vice versa. In addition, the use of inductors (which is how a passive pickup behaves in a guitar circuit) and capacitors can create resonant peaks and valleys (band-passes and notches), further coloring the overall tone.
Cory Wong bringing the funk onstage.
This type of band-pass filter only allows certain frequencies to pass through, while others are blocked. The standard tone circuit in a Strat is called a variable low-pass filter (or a treble-cut filter), which only allows the low frequencies to pass through while the high frequencies get sent to ground via the tone cap.
The Greasebucket’s band-pass filter is a combination of a high-pass and a low-pass filter. This is supposed to cut high frequencies without “adding” bass, which has mostly to do with the resistor in series with the pot. That resistor means the control will never get to zero. You can get a similar effect by simply not turning the Strat’s standard tone control all the way down. (The additional cap on the wiper of the Greasebucket circuit complicates things a bit, though; together with the pickups it forms an RLC circuit, but I really don’t want to get into that here.)
The standard Fender Greasebucket tone system is used in the Cory Wong Strat, which includes a 0.1 μF cap and a 0.022 uF cap, along with a 4.7k-ohm resistor in series. These are the values used on the PCB, and without the PCB it looks like the illustration at the top of this column.
Push-push tone pot with preset overwriting function:
The lower tone pot assigned to the bridge pickup is a 250k audio push-push pot with a DPDT switch. The switch is used to engage a preset sound by overwriting the 5-way pickup-selector switch, no matter what switching position it is in. The preset functionality has a very long tradition in the house of Fender, dating back to the early ’50s, when Leo Fender designed a preset bass sound on position 3 (where the typical neck position is on a modern guitar) of the Broadcaster (and later the Telecaster) circuit. Wong loves the middle-and-neck-in-parallel pickup combination, so that’s the preset sound his push-push tone pot is wired for.
The neck pickup has a dedicated tone control while the middle pickup doesn’t, which is also another interesting feature. This means that when you hit the push-push switch, you will engage the neck and middle pickup together in parallel, no matter what you have dialed in on the 5-way switch. Hit the push-push switch again, and the 5-way switch is back to its normal functionality. Instead of a push-push pot, you can naturally use a push-pull pot or a DPDT toggle switch in combination with a normal 250k audio pot.
Here we go for the wiring. For a much clearer visualization, I used the international symbol for ground wherever possible instead of drawing another black wire, because we already have a ton of crossing wires in this drawing. I also simplified the treble-bleed circuit to keep things clearer; you’ll find the architecture of it with the correct values in the previous column.
Cory Wong Strat wiring
Courtesy of singlecoil.com
Wow, this really is a personalized signature guitar down to the bone, and Wong used his opportunity to create a unique instrument. Often, signature instruments deliver custom colors or very small aesthetic or functional details, so the Cory Wong Stratocaster really stands out.
That’s it! In our next column, we will continue our Stratocaster journey in the 70th year of this guitar by having a look at the famous Rory Gallagher Stratocaster, so stay tuned!
Until then ... keep on modding!
By now, we’re all familiar with the many options out there for amp modeling. Mic modelers are another reliable asset to digital recording tech, and can rapidly grow your inventory with just a few clicks.
As guitarists, we’re very aware of amp-modeling and profiling technologies, such as the Line 6 Helix, Fractal Axe-Fx, Neural DSP Quad Cortex, and Kemper Profiler. While our bases are covered for these (with modelers available for every “holy grail” amp under the sun), we are still missing another vital area of the recording process—microphones—for the acoustic instruments and vocals we might want to capture.
What if we could record them using holy-grail-modeled microphones? This month, let’s evaluate microphone modeling to help you make better-sounding recordings. Tighten up, the Dojo is now open.
The Sincerest Form of Flattery
Microphone modeling is an intriguing advancement in recording technology, offering great flexibility and possibilities for musicians, producers, and engineers. Makers like Slate Digital, Antelope, and Antares make many offerings, from hardware to software.
Universal Audio’s Sphere DLX ($1299 Street), LX ($799), and their six new Standard Mic series have impeccably modeled classic mics, and when coupled with their classic mic pre and compressor plugins, you can enjoy the same highly coveted mic chains appreciated the world over.
How It Works
The technology behind microphone-modeling systems relies heavily on convolution and impulse response techniques. These techniques involve capturing the unique sonic fingerprint of a microphone by recording its response to a wide range of frequencies and sound pressure levels. The immediate benefit is that this means you can grow your mic locker exponentially and gain access to a wide range of legendary microphone tones and textures all from a single mic! Most modeling microphones are usually either small- or large-diaphragm, multi-pattern, condenser microphones that are capable of capturing a wide frequency range and dynamic response. By adding other modeling mics, you can record in stereo or surround, and/or record multiple instruments at a fraction of the cost of owning multiples of the modeled mics themselves.
A Wealth of Options
One significant advantage of mic-modeling systems is their ability to offer a vast array of microphone options within a single session instead of having the time-consuming duty of swapping them out to achieve different sounds. With a modeling system, you can switch between different mic models instantly and audition various mics to find the perfect tone for the recording.
“The same vintage microphone can sound different on different days depending on temperature, humidity, and the voltage from the wall.”
Another lovely bonus is that microphone-modeling systems also offer the ability to swap microphone characteristics after the recording has been made! Want to swap your AKG C12 for a Neumann U 47 long after the recording session is over? No problem! This is especially useful when the initial microphone choice may not have been ideal or when the production requires a different tonal character than originally intended.
Weighing the Pros and Cons
Some audio purists argue digital emulation can’t truly replicate the sound of a physical microphone, especially when it comes to vintage models that have unique characteristics developed over decades of use. The subtleties of these microphones and their aging components shape the way they interact with different preamps and compressors.
After making over a hundred records at Blackbird over the last eight years, I’ve grown quite familiar with a good portion of our 1,800-plus vintage mics, like Telefunken 251s, AKG C12s, Neumann U 47s and KM 84s, Shure SM7s and SM57s, RCA 44s and 77s, and Royer R-121s. These are the very same mic models that most modeling mics are trying to capture. But experience has taught me that not all microphones sound identical even if they are the same make and model (and year). Also, the same vintage microphone can sound different on different days depending on temperature, humidity, and the voltage from the wall (that’s why Blackbird has its own regulated power and all the studios strive for consistent temperature and humidity year-round).
For home studios and smaller production environments, microphone-modeling systems can be a game changer. You’ll get a wide range of high-end microphone sounds without the need for a large microphone collection, and the ability to change microphone models after the fact gives budding producers and engineers greater confidence and flexibility in their work.
In reality, most users find that the convenience, cost savings, and versatility offered by modeling systems far outweigh any potential shortcomings. Finally, keep in mind that even though the mic “profile” you choose (U 47, U 67, SM7, etc.) will be consistent day in and day out, the modeling mic itself is also still a mic and will require you to be mindful of these same issues I mentioned above in order for your mic “profile” to be as accurate as possible.
Until next time, namaste.
Vintage Fenders are some of the best-sounding amplifiers around, but from time to time, they need a bit of love to give up the goods. Here are the top issues you’ll encounter with your black- and silver-panel Fender amps, and how to fix them.
Trouble and worrying are part of a vintage tube amp owner’s life. In this article, I will try to teach some basic troubleshooting for vintage Fender amps. It will only require a little practice, patience, and, most importantly, curiosity, which to me is the single most important skill in life—we can accomplish great things by reading, seeking advice, trying, failing, and not giving up. So, let’s start!
As usual, I will refer to the silver- and black-panel Fender amps, but everything is applicable to earlier amps as well. I will often refer to tubes: On a Deluxe Reverb, for example, the tubes are referred to from V1 to V9. Always consult your amplifier’s schematic to confirm these placements.
No Reverb
The reverb tank is the most delicate component of these amps. The springs, wires, and soldering joints are thin and weak, and the reverb cables and plugs are also easily damaged, as they are exposed on the backside of the chassis.
First, check the plugs on both the amp and reverb tank. Unplug and switch the input and output to see if the previous player made a mistake. Often, the plugs are damaged and not conducting current, or the inner wire or outer insulation are broken. I recommend replacing old cables with new, vintage-correct ones if you suspect the slightest cable or plug issue.
“Trouble and worrying are part of a vintage-tube-amp owner’s life.”
A bad V3 or V4 preamp tube may also cause reverb loss. If replacing tubes or reverb cables does not help, you should try hooking up another amp’s reverb tank to verify whether you have an amp or reverb tank issue. The reverb springs may also have jumped out of position and need to be re-attached. I recommend refreshing soldering joints here.
No Vibrato
First, the footswitch must be plugged in for the vibrato to work. If you don’t have one or suspect that it’s malfunctioning, you can either buy or make yourself an “always-on” phono plug that is shorted internally with solder. A bad vibrato-driver tube may also cause vibrato loss, which is fixed easily by replacing the V5 with another 12AX7. If none of this helps, a tech should open the amp and inspect the vibrato tube circuitry, and/or replace the opto-oscillator component.
Blown Fuse
Pull all the tubes before replacing a blown fuse. If the fuse blows repeatedly without any tubes installed, a tech should be involved for inspecting the filter caps/resistors, power transformer, and the high-wattage resistors on the power-tube socket pins.
If the pilot lamp light is on when all tubes are pulled out, start inserting tubes one by one from the V1 rectifier tube. Turn power/standby on. If the fuse blows, the rectifier tube is bad. Then, insert both power tubes and turn power/standby on. If the fuse blows, you need new power tubes, and possibly new screen and plate resistors. Continue this procedure for each of the preamp tubes until you identify corrupted tubes that draw too much current.
Weak Tone
Check speaker cable(s) and speaker terminals. I find it useful to connect to a second amp’s speakers to determine if it’s the speakers or an amp that is the problem. (Remember to turn off or set the amp in standby whenever speakers are disconnected.)
Then, verify that the tubes are working by following the previous “blown fuse” procedure. Look for loose power-tube sockets causing bad connections by gently pushing them around in the socket. If speakers, tubes, and sockets are working fine, a tech should further inspect the amp.
Distortion, Reduced Volume, or Weak Bass
When playing powerful 40-watt amps at low volume, it can be difficult to hear if only one tube is working. If one of the power tubes is malfunctioning, you will experience distortion and farty bass. Non-matching power tubes can also result in distortion and reduced clean headroom, which is detected by measuring with a bias meter.
Preamp tubes in wrong positions may also affect volume response and cause an amp to distort too early or too late. Check all tubes and replace them one by one with fresh ones as you listen for tone changes. Sometimes we prefer the wrong tubes because we like more distortion. (My tube strategy is to replace tubes only when they fail entirely. I don’t mind weaker power, rectifier, or phase-inverter tubes since these amps are more than loud enough.)
Rattling Noise
Loose screws and nuts can cause rattling noise and should be inspected and tightened regularly, including on the chassis, baffle board, tilt-back legs, speaker, handle, and anywhere else. If the baffle board is warped and worn so that the screws are not tight, I never hesitate to install a new, solid-pine baffle. This usually improves tone and robustness compared to old, warped MDF baffles
Our columnist stumbled upon massive success when he shifted his focus to another instrument. Here, he breaks down the many benefits you can get from doing the same.
A while back, I was doing a session for the History Channel at Universal in Hollywood, California. After the session, I sheepishly admitted to some of the other session players that I was really getting into bluegrass and specifically the square-neck resonator, or dobro guitar. Now, as a progressive-jazz guitarist, that was quite a revelation. After some classic lines from the Burt Reynolds movie, Deliverance, another friend said he also was getting into mandolin and banjo.
Long story short, we put together a band, Honeywagon (which is the vehicle that cleans out the toilets under actors’ trailers on movie sets), started playing bluegrass around L.A. (up and down the Sunset Strip), and three months later, we had a record deal. We sang three-part harmony, made “deranged” covers of songs by famous artists, produced it ourselves, and sold well over 1.5 million albums and counting, and played all over the world.
What started all of that was my love for Jerry Douglas’ dobro playing. It’s so vocal, and his timbral range! You see, music is a universal language that transcends cultural, social, and linguistic boundaries. And learning another instrument is a gateway to unlock levels of self-expression, creativity, and emotional exploration you might not even be aware of.
I don’t believe in “mastery”—there are always deeper levels to discover—so let me say that while gaining significant proficiency on one instrument is a huge achievement, the benefits of learning to play at least one other instrument are immense. It will enhance your musical skills, cognitive abilities, and personal growth. Tighten up your belts, the Dojo is now open.
Enhancing Musical Skills and Understanding
Learning multiple instruments can profoundly deepen a musician’s understanding of music theory, composition, and performance. Each instrument has its unique challenges, techniques, and approaches that require you to adapt and learn new skills. For instance, a guitarist transitioning to the piano will need to understand new techniques, two-hand interdependence, chord shapes, and different ways of producing sound.
New instruments also allow you to appreciate different timbres, textures, and roles within an ensemble. A drummer who learns to play the bass, for example, will gain a deeper understanding of rhythm and timing, as they experience how their drumming interacts with the bassline. This cross-instrumental knowledge can lead to more creative compositions and more nuanced performances, as musicians become adept at thinking from multiple musical perspectives.
Cognitive Benefits
The cognitive benefits of playing an instrument are widely documented. Learning to play an instrument can improve memory, enhance coordination, and increase cognitive flexibility. When a musician learns to play an additional instrument, these cognitive benefits are amplified. The process of learning new fingerings, reading different clefs, and adapting to various physical requirements engages the brain in unique ways, promoting neuroplasticity and cognitive growth.
“Music is a universal language that transcends cultural, social, and linguistic boundaries.”
Moreover, playing multiple instruments can improve problem-solving skills and adaptability. We often face challenges when learning a new instrument, but successfully navigating these challenges builds resilience and perseverance—skills that are valuable both in music and in other areas of life.
Emotional and Personal Growth
Music is not just a technical skill, it is also a deeply emotional and expressive art form. Learning to play multiple instruments can enhance your ability to express and connect with your rich emotions. Each instrument has its own voice and character, offering different ways to convey those emotions and tell stories. A violinist who learns to play the flute, for instance, may discover new ways to express lyrical melodies or subtle nuances in phrasing. In addition, taking on another instrument can boost confidence and self-esteem.
Expanding Musical Opportunities
It can also open you up to a wide range of musical opportunities. Musicians who can play multiple instruments are often more versatile and in-demand for various musical projects. The more you’re able to adapt to different genres, styles, and ensemble settings, the more valuable a collaborator you’ll be in bands and recording sessions.
Which One?
Ultimately, I’ve found that the instruments I can play besides the guitar have helped me deepen my connection with music and discover new ways to express myself. If this article is resonating with you, I would suggest choosing your new instrument based around what excites you the most. Is it bass, keys, pedal steel (one of my personal faves), or modular-synth programming? The possibilities are as wide as your mindset. In “Song of Myself, 51,” Walt Whitman said, “I am large, I contain multitudes.” Namaste.Here’s a look under the hood of the funky rhythm-guitar master’s signature 6-string.
Hello and welcome back to Mod Garage. Since we’re still celebrating the 70th birthday of the Stratocaster, this month we will have a look under the hood of the Fender Cory Wong model to see just what’s so special about it. (I can tell you—it’s special!)
Guitarist, songwriter, and producer Cory Wong is renowned for his solo work, his band Fearless Flyers (with Mark Lettieri, Joe Dart, and Nate Smith), and collaborations with artists such as Vulfpeck, Jon Batiste, and Dave Koz. His playing style is deeply rooted in funk rhythm guitar, with a heavy dose of rock and jazz. Well-known for playing a Stratocaster, his signature model was released in 2021, and it’s a unique offering. If you want to build your personal Cory Wong Strat, here is your shopping list, starting with the primary structure:
• Alder body, scaled down to slightly smaller than a regular Stratocaster, with Fender American Ultra body contours
• Maple neck with a rosewood fretboard with rolled edges, modern Fender American Ultra D neck profile, slightly larger headstock, 25.5" scale, 10" to 14" compound radius, 22 medium jumbo frets
• Locking tuners with all short posts, a bone nut, and two roller string trees
• Vintage-style 6-screw synchronized tremolo
• Hair tie around the tremolo springs (which mutes them to enhance the rhythm tone)
• .010–.046 strings (nickel-plated steel)
“While these are all interesting features, resulting in a very comfortable guitar, you don’t need to copy every detail to transform one of your Stratocasters into a Cory Wong-style Strat.”
For the physical build, as you can see, Wong and Fender created a real signature instrument to his specs and wishes. While these are all interesting features, resulting in a very comfortable guitar, you don’t need to copy every detail to transform one of your Stratocasters into a Cory Wong-style Strat. My personal favorite of these is the hair tie for muting the tremolo springs. A lot of my funk-playing customers are doing similar things on their Strats to get a dry sound, and they’re using all kinds of funny things in there, like foam, rubber bands, and pieces of cotton, as well as hair ties.
Now, let’s have a look at the electronics:
• Seymour Duncan Cory Wong Clean Machine SSS pickup set
• Standard 5-way pickup-selector switch with classic Strat switching matrix
• 250k master volume pot with a 90/10 audio taper and Fender treble-bleed circuit PCB
• 250k tone pot with a 90/10 audio taper and Fender Greasebucket tone control PCB for only the neck pickup
• 250k audio push-push tone pot with Fender Greasebucket tone control PCB for only the bridge pickup; the push-push switch overrides the 5-way switch and defaults to middle + neck pickup (in parallel) as a preset
• Middle pickup is without tone control
Let’s break this down piece-by-piece to decode it:
Pickups
The pickup set is a custom SSS set from the Seymour Duncan company with the following specs:
• Overwound hum-canceling stacked bridge pickup with a 3-conductor wire and shield in permanent hum-canceling mode (red wire taped off), bevelled alnico 5 magnets, approximately 14.5k-ohm DCR
• Overwound middle single-coil, RWRP, beveled alnico 4 magnets, approximately 7.1k-ohm DCR
• Overwound neck single-coil, bevelled alnico 4 magnets, approx. 7.0k-ohm DCR
The pickups are voiced for clear highs, which perfectly suits Wong’s funky playing style and tone. While a lot of pickup companies will have pickups in that ballpark, it will be difficult to put together a full set that really works as intended. The Duncans in the Cory Wong Strat are available as a balanced set, so if you want to get as close as possible, I think this is your best bet.
5-Way Pickup Selector Switch
Nothing special here, just the standard 5-way switch with two switching stages that is wired like a classic Stratocaster:
bridge
bridge + middle in parallel
middle
middle + neck in parallel
neck
The upper tone pot is assigned to the neck pickup, while the lower tone pot is connected to the bridge pickup, leaving the middle pickup without tone control.
Master volume pot and treble-bleed circuit.
The 250k master volume pot is a standard CTS pot with a 90/10 audio taper found in all U.S.-made Fender guitars. The volume pot has the treble-bleed circuit from the Fender American Pro series, but uses a ready-to-solder PCB from Fender instead of individual electronic parts. The PCB is available from Fender individually (part #7711092000), but I have some thoughts about it. While using a PCB makes a lot of sense for mass production, it has some downsides for us mortal human beings:
• Soldering on PCBs requires some training and also special soldering tools.
• The PCB is quite expensive, while the individual electronic parts are only a few cents.
• The PCB uses ultra-tiny surface-mount parts, so it’s very difficult to repair or mod it to your personal taste.
I don’t think we need a PCB for adding a treble-bleed circuit, so let’s do this project using conventional electronic parts. The treble-bleed PCB contains a 1200 pF capacitor with a 150k-ohm resistor in parallel, plus another 20k-ohm resistor in series. Using individual parts, it looks like this:
Courtesy of single-coil.com
In general, a treble-bleed circuit will help you to combat the “volume vs. tone problem” when using passive single-coil pickups. When you turn down the volume (even just a bit), the high end or treble loss is not proportionate. In other words, a small cut in volume creates a far greater loss in your guitar’s treble response. Using a treble-bleed circuit is an easy way to get rid of this problem, as long as it is calculated carefully.
ONLINE ONLY: If you want to find out more about treble bleed circuits please have a look here: https://www.premierguitar.com/diy/mod-garage/treble-bleed-mod
Next month, we will continue with part two of the Cory Wong Stratocaster wiring, bringing it all together, so stay tuned!
Until then ... keep on modding!