When it comes to power supplies, don’t underestimate their importance—an unreliable, low-quality one can lead to serious pedal malfunctions.
Let’s begin this article with my personal experience as a pedal builder and a novice musician. One day, a customer messaged me, sounding a bit frustrated. “I received the pedal, but it won’t light up. Did it get damaged during shipping?” they said. I promptly began troubleshooting.
I started with clarifying the signal source, checking if the installation of the input and output jacks was correct, and, finally, inquiring about the power supply being used. To my surprise, he replied, “I’m using a laptop power adapter. Shouldn’t that work just fine? My laptop is in good shape with it. Have I made a mistake? By the way, this is my first pedal ever.”
For a moment, I couldn’t help but wonder how incidents like this were still occurring. It reminded me of a time 20 years ago when I struggled to power my pedal with a phone charger, and it happened to be at my first gig! Do you think this is a funny story? Definitely not! I’m sure most of us have been there at some point. Beginners in any field share two common traits: lack of knowledge and lack of experience. However, we’re currently in an era where a wealth of information is readily available at our fingertips, including this article, which I hope will serve as an informative artifact that is accessible to everyone.
“For a moment, I couldn’t help but wonder how incidents like this were still occurring.”
As pedal builders, we pay particular attention to power supplies, especially during the testing and quality-control processes. In fact, we’ve conducted experiments with various power supplies, ranging from the cheapest ones available on the market to ones made by well-known brands with a strong reputation.
During our experiments, we plugged all these power supplies into a variety of pedals and let them run continuously for a week. The results were astonishing: Two power supplies burned out, and one of them was from a renowned brand in the power supply universe.
We conducted these experiments not out of sheer curiosity. The electrical grid in our country, Indonesia, is notorious for its poor quality. Voltage fluctuations are common, and event organizers will sometimes haphazardly use power generators, lacking proper planning. That’s why we felt the need to experiment with power supplies and their impact on pedals. Moreover, I am fairly confident that most of us choose to buy a power supply as infrequently as possible, so we can spend our money on buying more and more pedals, adding some boutique overdrives, or expanding our collection with the latest and greatest delay units under the guise of “upgrading.”
Well, in the end, the choice between buying the fanciest delay unit and upgrading to a proper power supply is a matter of personal preference. If you can afford both at the same time, it’s undoubtedly a smart and ideal choice. However, are we always in an ideal situation? Most likely not. That’s why I’m using this platform to convey a message to all of you: A proper power supply, especially an isolated type, is the most valuable and crucial investment in a pedalboard! (Isolated power supplies offer one-to-one connections with the pedals on your ’board, so if one channel of the supply goes down, other pedals will remain powered.)
This becomes even more critical if you’re a touring musician with a highly complex pedalboard setup. In such cases, an isolated power supply is an absolute necessity. The stages you’ll visit can be unpredictable and even chaotic! No matter how advanced and costly your pedal collection is, if you’re using a low-quality power supply, all those sophisticated and expensive pedals are at risk of becoming useless or, worse, suffering fatal damage. This can occur due to voltage drops, which can lead to malfunctions or excessive, disruptive noise, rendering your entire setup completely useless.
Seven different diodes generate subtly different shades of Klon-style sounds. Does that justify an extra 130 bucks?
Delicious Klon-style voices at most diode settings. Top quality.
Slight differences among diode settings may not justify cost.
$329
J. Rockett Archer Select
rockettpedals.com
Most Klon or klone players use the circuit’s just-barely-gritty tones, primarily. I’m among those guilty of underutilizing my klone in this way. Still, I love to explore its filthier side when recording or seeking reference sounds for a review. If you dabble in that facet of a Klon’s performance envelope, the J. Rockett Archer Select’s seven selectable clipping diodes merit investigation.
J. Rockett themselves say the differences between these diode positions are subtle at high gain settings, and pretty much indiscernible in clean boost situations. That was borne out in my experiments. The default OA10 diode, standard in regular Archers, is predictably sweet and dishes the lowest output. Among the other five germanium diodes, which include the 1N34A used in the original Klon, the differences are apparent in slight shifts in output and compression profile. The 1N270 and 1N34A sound the most open and attractively compressed. The 1N695, D9B, and D9A are less flatteringly compressed, and very similar in the case of the last two. The single red LED diode setting is considerably louder and less compressed. In this setting you can use the clipping switch to move between default OA10 and LED modes, using the latter as a volume boost. Whether these subtle differences in diode type, and a DI output with speaker simulation, justify the extra 130 bucks you’ll pay to upgrade from a regular Archer to a Select will be very subjective. But you can be certain there are delectable Klon-style voices here if you pony up the cash.
In the video, Dave Johnson of Nashville’s Scale Model Guitars shows you the steps for replacing a standard 1/4" jack, with a boat-style plate, with a Pure Tone Multi-Contact Output Jack.
It has four points of contact, versus the OEM two, and dual tension grounds to hug the cable sleeve in place from both sides, providing more reliable performance and better tone. After explaining how a jack carries mono or stereo signal, and taking a sidetrack to detail how to solve the issue of a loose output jack with a severed ground wire, Dave relates how to remove the two jack plate screws, and then remove the output jack nut with a 1/2" nut driver. And then strip the wire—red is hot, white is ground—to prepare for soldering.
Dave takes a few minutes to teach the basics of soldering, with a Hakko soldering station—his preferred instrument. He also recommends Kester 60/40 rosin core solder, which is 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, in .062" thickness. (Hint: Look for silver beads of solder, not gray, when soldering!) Before joining the wires to the jack connections, he slides some shrink tubing (from Harbor Freight Tools) on them.
After making the connections, he shrinks the tubing with a cigarette lighter, to preserve the integrity of those connections. A locking nut and the nut driver takes care of the next step, and after a quick test—plug in and hit the strings—it’s time to screw the boat plate back in place. Dave also shares a golden rule for working on guitars: always go slow. Think of the tortoise and the hare—although this entire process can be done in less time than it takes to watch this video.
For an in-depth written version of this jack replacement lesson, with photos, check the June 2023 issue of Premier Guitar or go to premierguitar.com.