Photo 1
Welcome back to Mod Garage and to the second and final column about grounding in passive guitar and bass circuits. If you missed the first part, check out "How to Ground Passive Guitar (and Bass) Circuits, Pt. 1," from April 2021. Today we'll discuss grounding individual lugs on pots, which is usually the case on all volume controls, but also on some certain tone pots, depending on how the circuit is set up.
To resume from the first part, please remember that the goal is to connect an individual part or piece in the circuit to ground, and the quality of a ground connection inside a passive circuit is not dominated by the gauge of the wire that's used. So, the more the merrier may look cool, but it's simply not necessary to overdo it here. Personally, I use a silver-plated, solid core AWG24 copper wire that looks nice and shiny and is also a joy to work with.
Let's start with version #1, the method that started it all: soldering the lug directly to the casing of the pot. This is the version Leo Fender used (remember: Leo didn't waste time on anything that wasn't necessary), but Gibson and all others used it as well. I like to call it the "cowboy version," or, for you Trekkies: This is the version James T. Kirk would have chosen when he would be into guitar-circuit soldering.
The handle of the cage is used to connect all three ground wires from the pickups individually, so it's easy to remove only one when you need to without adding any more heat to the case.
This is the most basic version and it's simply about bending the lug towards the casing of the pot and soldering both parts together as shown here in our example on a Stratocaster volume pot from 1965 (Photo 1). This sounds easy but it isn't. When you're not restoring a vintage guitar, I recommend using one of the other versions that follow. Depending on the pot, chances are good that you'll break the lug easily while attempting to make it touch the casing. This isn't the end of the world, but avoidable trouble.
Let's assume you managed to bend the lug towards the case without breaking it. You'll need a really hot soldering iron to connect both parts with each other, and soldering time will be a little bit longer than usual. The chance of overheating the pot is something to consider. With a good and quick soldering technique that comes with experience and the right tools, it's doable, but avoiding overheating is important to not kill your pot. If you're working on a vintage guitar, be very careful to not break the lug while bending it. Take care to clean both contact points and use a heatsink wherever possible. For more tips about soldering to pots, please read this column I wrote last year: "How to Install and Maintain Your Guitar's Pots."
Photo 2
Courtesy of singlecoil.com
All following versions are the "Gentleman versions," or, for the Trekkies out there: These are the versions Jean-Luc Picard would choose. Version #2 involves extending the ground wire. This is easy and neat to do when you're running a bare ground wire from pot to pot. Instead of soldering it directly to the case of the pot, run the wire though the lug of the pot you want to ground and solder it as shown here in a Stratocaster wiring example using a shielded output wire to the jack (Photo 2).
Photo 3
Courtesy of singlecoil.com
Version #3 is a kind of variation of version #2, using the grounded lug as the ground connection for the output jack, as shown here on a vintage-style Stratocaster wiring (Photo 3). Simply extend the ground wire for the output jack though the lug and solder it to the case and the lug, and you're done. I really like to use this version for a clean wiring, and as long as all pots are grounded this one works pretty awesome.
Version #4 is using a ground strap. When you're using a ground strap from pot to pot, you already must solder it to the case of the volume pot. Instead of heating up the case for a second time to connect the lug to ground, it's much more reasonable and easier to connect the lug to the ground strap. For this you have three choices:
1. Leave some slack on the ground strap so it touches the lug.
2. Bend the lug upwards so it touches the ground strap. Do not break it!
3. Solder a piece of wire to the lug and the other end to the ground strap.
Photo 4
Courtesy of singlecoil.com
In our example, shown in Photo 4, I used the slack method, so soldering was easy.
Photo 5
Courtesy of singlecoil.com
Now let's have a look at how to connect the ground wires of the pickups to ground, starting with the method Fender used right from the start on the Stratocaster: soldering all three wires side by side on the case (Photo 5).
Here you can clearly see: The lug is directly soldered to the case and the additional black wire you see is the ground wire from the output jack, so this case had to stand a lot of heat during the installation process. The advantage of this method is it's easy to change only one pickup if you need to by unsoldering only its individual ground wire. The disadvantage (besides the large amount of heat to the case) is that you need some practice to master this method because you must hold all three wires in place while soldering and usually need three hands for this (another one of those "alien tasks" in lutherie).
Photo 6
Courtesy of singlecoil.com
A really good alternative is to twist and solder all three ground wires together, so you only have one small soldering spot on the case (Photo 6). This is quick and easy to do, looks neat, and saves you some time, nerves, and exposed heat to the pot's case. You can also extend the twisted part to the lug you want to ground, similar to version #3 above, only the other way around. The disadvantage is that it's not so easy to change only one of the pickups if you need to. You'll have to unsolder all three ground wires, cut off the twisted part and pull out the wire you need.
Photo 7
Courtesy of Mark Foley/mfguitarproducts.com
In closing, I want to show you a really cool version that brings it all together that my friend Mark Foley, from MF Guitar Products in the U.K., is using.
Foley builds a kind of cage on the volume pots, connecting the lug with a piece of wire to another piece of wire (Photo 7). The intention and advantages are clear to see: Bending a lug downwards is much easier than upwards and the chance of breaking it is very minimal. Besides this, you only have two small soldering spots on the case that are quick and easy to do, saving a lot of heat on the case. So, what is the "handle" running across the case of the pot for? Is it only for connecting the wire coming from the lug? No, the best part is yet to come.
Photo 8
Courtesy of Mark Foley/mfguitarproducts.com
The handle of the cage is used to connect all three ground wires from the pickups individually, so it's easy to remove only one when you need to without adding any more heat to the case (Photo 8). It's also the perfect connection point for any other ground wires in the circuit, like the ground wire from the output jack, the string grounding wire coming from the tremolo claw, etc. And it's also a great guide for the hot wires from the pickups on their way to the pickup selector switch, so you don't need to use any additional tape, cable ties, or whatever else to bundle the wires. Is that a cool and clever solution, or what?
That's it for the topic of grounding. Next month we'll explore our next guitar mod, so stay tuned. Until then ... keep on modding!- Three Must-Try Guitar Wiring Mods - Premier Guitar ›
- Mod Garage: Three Ways to Wire a Tone Pot - Premier Guitar ›
- Grounding Passive Guitar (and Bass) Circuits, Part 1 - Premier Guitar ›
- Mod Garage: Three Ways to Wire a Tone Pot - Premier Guitar ›
- Three Must-Try Guitar Wiring Mods - Premier Guitar ›
- Three Must-Try Guitar Wiring Mods - Premier Guitar ›
Naturally, every recording Eddie Van Halen ever played on has been pored over by legions of guitar players of all styles. It might seem funny, then, to consider EVH solos that might require more attention. But your 100 Guitarists hosts have their picks of solos that they feel merit a little discussion. Some of these are deep cuts—get ready for some instrumental bonus tracks and Van Halen III mentions—and some are among the biggest radio hits of their time. Just because their hits, though, doesn’t mean we don’t have more to add to the conversation.
We can’t cover everything EVH—Jason has already tried while producing the Runnin’ With the Dweezil podcast. But we cover as much as we can in our longest episode yet. And in the second installment of our current listening segment, we’re talking about new-ish music from Oz Noy and Bill Orcutt.
Tinkering with theSDE-3 Dual Digital Delay suggested a similar, possibly enduring appeal. As an evolution of the Roland SDE-3000rack unit from the 1980s, it’s a texture machine, bubbling with subtle-to-odd triangle LFO modulations and enhanced dual-delay patterns that make tone mazes from dopey-simple melodies. And with the capacity to use it with two amps in stereo or in panning capacity, it can be much more dimensional. But while the SDE-3 will become indispensable to some for its most complex echo textures, its basic voice possesses warmth that lends personality in pedestrian applications too.
Tapping Into the Source
Some interest in the original SDE-3000 is in its association with Eddie Van Halen, who ran two of them in a wet-dry-wet configuration, using different delay rates and modulation to thicken and lend dimension to solos. But while EVH’s de facto endorsement prompted reissues of the effect as far back as the ’90s, part of the appeal was down to the 3000’s intrinsic elegance and simplicity.
In fact, the original rack unit’s features don’t differ much from what you would find on modern, inexpensive stompbox echoes. But the SDE-3000’s simplicity and reliable predictability made it conducive to fast workflow in the studio. Critically, it also avoided the lo-fi and sterility shortcomings that plagued some lesser rivals—an attribute designer Yoshi Ikegami chalks up to analog components elsewhere in the circuit and a fortuitous clock imprecision that lends organic essence to the repeats.
Evolved Echo Animal
Though the SDE-3 traces a line back to the SDE-3000 in sound and function, it is a very evolved riff on a theme. I don’t have an original SDE-3000 on hand for comparison, but it’s easy to hear how the SDE-3 bridges a gap between analog haze and more clinical, surgical digital sounds in the way that made the original famous. Thanks to the hi-cut control, the SDE-3’s voice can be shaped to enhance the angular aspect of the echoes, or blunt sharp edges. There’s also a lot of leeway to toy with varied EQ settings without sacrificing the ample definition in the repeats. That also means you can take advantage of the polyrhythmic effects that are arguably its greatest asset.
“There’s a lot of leeway to toy with varied EQ settings without sacrificing the ample definition in the repeats.”
The SDE-3’s offset control, which generates these polyrhythmic echoes, is its heart. The most practical and familiar echos, like quarter, eighth, and dotted-eighth patterns, are easy to access in the second half of the offset knobs range. In the first half of the knob’s throw, however, the offset delays often clang about at less-regular intervals, producing complex polyrhythms that are also cool multipliers of the modulation and EQ effects. For example, when emphasizing top end in repeats, using aggressive effects mixes and pitch-wobble modulation generates eerie ghost notes that swim through and around patterns, adding rhythmic interest and texture without derailing the drive behind a groove. Even at modest settings, these are great alternatives to more staid, regular subdivision patterns. Many of the coolest sounds tend toward the foggy reverb spectrum. Removing high end, piling on feedback, and adding the woozy, drunken drift from modulation creates fascinating backdrops for slow, sparse chord melodies. Faster modulations throb and swirl like old BBC Radiophonic Workshop sci-fi sound designs.
By themselves, the modulations have their own broad appeal. Chorus tones are rarely the archetypal Roland Jazz Chorus or CE type—tending to be a bit darker and mistier. But they do a nice job suggesting that texture without lapsing into caricature. There are also really cool rotary-speaker-like textures and vibrato sounds that offer alternatives to go-to industry standards.
The Verdict
The SDE-3’s many available sounds and textures would be appealing at $219—even without the stereo and panning connectivity options, a useful hold function, and expression pedal control that opens up additional options. The panning capabilities, in particular, sparked all kinds of thoughts about studio applications. Mastering the SDE-3 takes just a little study—certain polyrhythms can be dramatically reshaped by the interactivity of other controls and you need to take care to achieve identical results twice. But this is a pedal that, by virtue of its relative simplicity and richness and breadth of sounds, exceeds the utility of some similarly priced rivals, all while opening up possibilities well outside the simple echo realm
Reader: T. Moody
Hometown: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Guitar: The Green Snake
Reader T. Moody turned this Yamaha Pacifica body into a reptilian rocker.
I have always loved the reverse headstock, simply because nothing says 1987 (the best year in the history of the world) like a reverse headstock. The pickups are both Seymour Duncan—an SH-1N in the neck position and TB-4 in the bridge, both in a very cool lime green color. Right when these pickups got listed, the Buy It Now button once again lit up like the Fourth of July. I am a loyal disciple of Sperzel locking tuners and think Bob Sperzel was a pure genius, so I knew those were going on this project even before I started on it. I also knew that I wanted a Vega-Trem; those units are absolutely amazing.
When the body arrived, I thought it would be cool to do some kind of burst around the yellow so I went with a neon green. It turned out better than I imagined. Next up was the shaping and cutting of the pickguard. I had this crocodile-type, faux-leather material that I glued on the pickguard and then shaped to my liking. I wanted just a single volume control and no tone knob, because, like King Edward (Van Halen) once said, “Your volume is your tone.”
T. Moody
I then shaped and glued the faux-leather material in the cavity. The tuning knobs, volume knob, pickguard, screws, and selector switch were also painted in the lemon-lime paint scheme. I put everything together, installed the pickups, strung it up, set it up, plugged it in, and I was blown away. I think this is the best-playing and -sounding guitar I have ever tried.
The only thing missing was the center piece and strap. The latter was easy because DiMarzio makes their ClipLock in neon green. The center piece was more difficult because originally, I was thinking that some kind of gator-style decoration would be cool. In the end, I went with a green snake, because crocodiles ain’t too flexible—and they’re way too big to fit in a pickup cavity!
The Green Snake’s back is just as striking as the front.
