Take a deep look inside this ubiquitous little workhorse, and consider a few easy mods that can make it sound and perform even better.
There are a lot of mods that can be done on a Blues Junior—the affordable, lightweight, and smallest member of Fender’s 12" combo family. These include replacing tone caps, swapping out the transformer, electrolytic cap upgrades, reverb tank mods, and more. Just google “Fender Blues Junior Mods” and prepare to be overwhelmed.
But how many of these mods are really necessary? It’s fair to assume that if you own a Blues Junior you were attracted to both its price of $749 street and at least some elements of its sound, which falls into the range of classic Fender voices, with clarity and punch. So, as PG’s “Silver and Black” columnist and resident guru of fenderguru.com, let me wade through some of the popular mods and make some recommendations about a few I think are actually beneficial, affordable, and easy to accomplish—resulting in more punch, volume, and warmth in your tone. Specifically, I’m talking about using extension cabinets, adjusting the bias by changing the resistors, replacing those electrolytic caps, and adding a resistor to tame and darken the reverb.
Before we get there, however, let’s take a look under the hood of this humble working-player’s Fender. The 15-watt, all-tube Blues Junior was introduced in 1995. It weighs only 30 pounds and measures 16" x 18" x 9", making it smaller and lighter than a Princeton, although it holds a larger 12" speaker.
Although smaller than the Princeton, the Fender Blues Junior has a larger speaker and more wattage, with a 12" speaker compared to the Princeton’s 10", and 12 watts compared to the Junior’s 15.
How Low Can We Go?
The Blues Junior was introduced before the trendy low-wattage-amp era began, and even in the digital era, players still appreciate the Junior’s printed circuit board (PCB), manual knobs, and tubes in its preamp and power amp sections. There have been many revisions over the years, including minor changes in circuitry and components, different speakers, and the addition of a fat switch that boosts the mids and pushes the preamp stage into quicker distortion.
There are three models in the current Blues Junior IV lineup. The black Tolex amp has a Celestion A type speaker, the racing green model has a Jensen C12Q, and the lacquered tweed model comes with a Jensen C12N. They all share the same circuitry. There’s also a tube in the phase inverter, while there is a transistor-driven reverb and diode rectifier. The early Blues Juniors with green circuit boards were made in the U.S., until Fender moved production to Mexico in 2001. The Mexico-made amps have a cream-colored circuit board.
PCB amps are a little more complicated to work on than handwired amps. You must be gentle and careful with wire cutters and soldering irons to not damage the small connections. It is easy to break the board’s connection traces and pins, or accidentally touch a high voltage point in the circuit. Be careful should you venture inside.
The Tale of the Tubes
So, what can we draw from inspecting the amp and reading the schematic of a Blues Junior? The control panel has volume, master, treble, middle, bass, reverb, and fat switch controls. Reading the schematic, I find that the tube layout and circuit functions are:
V1 12AX7: The first half of the tube handles preamp gain stage one before the volume and fat functions, and the second half powers preamp gain stage two, after volume and before the EQ/tone stack.
V2 12AX7: The first half powers preamp gain stage three, after the EQ/tone stack and before the master volume, and then the phase inverter. The second half of the tube’s output is not in use.
V3 12AX7: The first half juices the phase inverter’s phase one; the second half handles the phase inverter’s phase two.
V4 and V5: That’s the home of the EL84 power tubes.
Just like the Princeton Reverb, there are three gain stages in the preamp circuit. The power amp circuit design is also based on a classic Fender black- and silver-panel-era recipe. It has dual EL84 power tubes in a push-pull Class AB configuration with fixed bias and a negative feedback loop. This means we should expect a nice, clean black-panel-style tone before the amp breaks up.
Before the power tubes sits a proper, high-performing, long-tail phase inverter based on the two available amplifier functions in the single V3 12AX7 tube. All Class AB push-pull amps need a phase inverter that splits one sine wave signal into two signals with opposite phase that are fed into each power tube. The Princeton Reverb has a weaker phase inverter than the Blues Junior, and the Blues Junior has a bigger loudspeaker but a smaller speaker cabinet, which we will get back to in a moment.
The small cabinet is the most significant bottleneck with the Blues Junior. At home, it works well for me, but onstage it gets too boxy and thin. The 12" speaker doesn’t have room to breathe in that small cabinet and would benefit greatly from a bigger space. You can change the tone by swapping the loudspeaker, but you won’t get more punch and bass response.
Here’s an interior look at Jens’ own Fender Blues Junior. Space is of the essence in this mighty mite of an amp.
Extended and Amended
Bigger extension cabinets are by far the easiest way to increase the spread and punch of a Blues Junior. Good speaker combinations are closed or semi-closed 1x12, 1x15, or 2x10 cabs. The Blues Junior expects an 8-ohm speaker load but will handle anything between 4 and 16 ohms. Since 8 ohms give you the most headroom, I recommend disabling the built-in speaker entirely and sending all the power to the bigger extension cabinet for a bigger tone.
If a bigger extension cabinet isn’t enough, you could consider upgrading the output transformer to a larger one. Some will argue that the Junior’s small output transformer is a weak point, limiting fullness and bass response. I, however, think the modest power transformer is properly sized for this small amp. It is, after all, supposed to be a low-wattage amp with early breakup. A bigger OT is not the right medicine in such a small combo, in my opinion, unless you’re always driving an extension cabinet.
Fixing the Fixed Bias
Before we leave the power amp section, I must mention that the Blues Junior is famously known for having a too-hot fixed bias setting on the EL84s. Juniors benefit from a cooler bias, which also increases tube lifetime. Since there is no available bias pot, you have to adjust the bias by changing the values of the two resistors—a 22k/R31 and 33k/R37, or a R52 and R51 in more recent models. This is especially helpful if your amp wears out EL84 tubes fast. The good news is that Fender has improved the latest model IV with a cooler bias setting.
This photo shows the location of the R51 resistor in the Blues Junior circuit, important in recontouring the bias.
So, you’ll need to reduce the amp’s bias current to between 25 mA and 30 mA, from the factory-set 42 mA. (You’ll need a bias probe to measure the bias. To learn more about using a bias probe, see Jeff Bober’s story “Amp Man Returns, to Explain Tube Bias” in Premier Guitar’s June 2023 issue or online at premierguitar.com.) The simplest way to accomplish this via reducing the value of a resistor is to add another resistor in parallel. You simply solder a resistor on top of the existing one on the front side of the circuit. Twist the legs of the new resistor around the old ones a couple of times so it stays in place. That way, you don’t have to remove the original resistor. Then, warm up and apply the soldering tin to the legs. It’s that easy. I recommend adding a 220k resistor in parallel with the original 33k to see where that leads you. If you need to reduce more, use a smaller resistor or add another one in parallel until you are between 25 mA and 30 mA.
As far as tubes go, the circuit design will allow lower gain tubes—such as a 5751 or a 12AU7—in the preamp V1 and V2 positions. But you’d lose volume and break-up. I find that the amp’s sweet spot, meaning the transition between clean and distortion, is already pretty much where I want it, and I like the usable range between the volume and master volume controls, so I would advise against inserting low-gain tubes.
The tone stack and EQ balance is well-designed, too, with a nice, usable range in the bass, mid, and treble controls. The Junior can do both sparkling cleans and crunchy distortion. The mid control offers more mids than the scooped Princeton. With the mid knob set at max, I’m able to get some British-style distortion. If you think that your Blues Junior sounds a little glassy, you should experiment with other loudspeakers. Inserting a broken-in Celestion Greenback or a Jensen P12Q would easily make cranked tones smoother or the clean sound more authentic-vintage Fender. The Blues Junior III I’ve been playing lately comes with a Fender-labeled speaker made by Eminence—a good, all-round speaker with nice sparkle and a firm bottom end.
Doffing the Caps
Next up: a highly recommended maintenance mod. Electrolytic filter caps are important components in terms of noise, loudness, and clean headroom. The cheap, low-quality caps that come in blue or grey are a well-known problem with the Hot Rod Deluxe and Blues Junior. The good news is, they are quite easy to swap out. I recommend replacing these if you hear any 50Hz hum or see any signs of cap leakage. There are several cap replacement kits available online for the Blues Junior, running from about $60 to $100.
Note the 14 circled electrolytic capacitors in this photo. Filter cap replacement kits are affordable and widely available online.
Start by replacing the four largest capacitors: three with a value of 22 uF and one with a 47 uF value. Again, it’s simple. Just clip the legs off the factory-installed capacitors as close to the caps’ bodies as possible, and remove them. Then, twist the new caps’ legs around the old ones and solder them in place. Just be careful with both your clippers and soldering iron around the PCB. If that doesn’t get the results you want, replace the smaller caps, too.
Moving on to the reverb, I can understand the cost-efficiency decision that Fender made with the simplified, transistor-based circuitry. Not having a tube-and-transformer-based reverb lowers expense and weight, and there are fewer things that can fail. Luckily, there is a proper spring reverb tank in the back of the amp. In fact, the Blues Junior I, II, and III are famously known for having too much reverb. Anything above 2.5 on the reverb dial and the amp swims in overwhelming and bright ’verb.
Another recommended, and cheap, mod is to add an 82k resistor in parallel with the original 220k/330k in the reverb circuit, to tame and darken the reverb. This goes parallel to the R44 (220k) resistor on the made-in-Mexico board or the R50 (330k) resistor on the made-in-U.S. green PCB. Once again, an easy fix. As in the bias adjustment mod we covered earlier, we solder a new 82k resistor on top of the existing 220k on the front side of the circuit. How? By twisting the leg of the new resistor around the old one a couple of times so that it stays in place, and then applying the soldering tin. Voilà!
To restore the Junior’s classic Fender reverb sound, a new resistor should be wired in place atop the R44 factory resistor, circled in green.
With this mod, the reverb sounds more like the classic black- and silver-panel ’verbs, but with a wider knob-control span. I have read that the early made-in-the-States models have a darker reverb tone and might not require this move. But if you do this and find change isn’t enough, you may want to experiment with replacement reverb tanks with different decays.
So, that’s my take on this popular little warrior tube amp, and some easy mods. Even without changing the circuitry at all, with the Blues Junior, for a little money you get a lot of vintage Fender tone with a modern twist.
Words of wisdom from the legendary engineer, proprietor of Chicago’s Electrical Audio, World Series of Poker champion, and, in the band Shellac, the compass for brutal guitar aesthetics.
“All day every day, we’re grinding it out,” says engineer Steve Albini of his team at Electrical Audio, the Chicago studio he built and has run since 1997. “We’re constantly in session, constantly under fire.”
While it might be tempting to geek out and ask Albini about all the iconic albums that he’s recorded with the utmost finesse—and surely, there would be value in rapping about recording some of the biggest names in guitar music—that’s all been done.
What’s much more interesting is the work that goes on every single day at the studio. So, when he tells me, “My colleagues at Electrical Audio and I are constantly having to interrogate our methods and validate the things that we’re doing and come up with arguments for why we should do things this way or that,” that’s the stuff I want to know about. If you want to learn about how he recorded In Utero, go listen to Conan’s podcast. (Albini was a guest, along with Dave Grohl and Krist Novoselic, on the October 23, 2023 episode of Conan O’Brien Needs a Friend, and it’s a thorough discussion that is totally worth checking out.)
The fact is, Albini has recorded countless records. I’m sure he has a tally in his books somewhere, but it would be exceedingly difficult to know for sure how many albums he’s engineered. That’s because, as extensive as his credits are in various record-collecting resources, he’s also impressively accessible as a for-hire engineer. All levels of artists—from superstars to harder-to-track, mostly unknown road dogs—have carved out their time with him. Plus, he’s been at it since he started renting four-track demo packages on the weekends during his high school years in Missoula, Montana.
The body of engineering work that Albini has amassed is monumental not just in size, but also in musical scope, which extends further than from Sunn O))) to Magnolia Electric Company, Cheap Trick to Neurosis, or Low to The Thing. And with those artists, he often helps capture a landmark album, or at least the record that fans refer to as “the one they recorded with Albini.”
Aside from his day job, there’s also his guitar playing. Albini serves as the compass for cutting, brutal tone in the punk and underground rock scenes. Since his early days in the hard-hitting Big Black through his continuing work alongside bassist Bob Weston and drummer Todd Trainer in the band Shellac—whose soon-to-be six (no info yet, but a new one is confirmed to be on the way) full-length albums and some other recorded odds and ends are maybe the purest documents of his overall sonic aesthetic—he’s used a fairly concise rig of well-suited esoteric gear to shape his incisive, metallic, and esoterically personal guitar sound in the creation of angular riffage and gnarly feedback.
Albini’s sonic mastery seems to know no bounds: He’s probably the most-cited proponent of analog recording. His live-band-in-a-room sound is unparalleled. And his drum sounds are peerless. But, while it’s not as if he never talks about guitar, it’s rare to see him dive deep on his guitar-specific processes.
So, we called up Electrical Audio and had a chat about his methods on recording guitars and how they’ve evolved, his take on modern guitar culture, and the definitive details of his sound.
In addition to his gear collection, Albini is also a good-bandname-T-shirt collector. (If this isn’t proof enough, go look up a photo from when he won his first gold bracelet in the World Series of Poker.)
Photo by Daniel Bergeron
When you’re going to record a guitarist, what’s your process of deciding how you’re going to choose a microphone, and how you’re going to mic their amp or cabinet?
Steve Albini: You have a conversation—what kind of sound are they shooting for? Who are some guitarists whose sound would be appropriate for their music? That sort of thing. And sometimes that’ll give you a clue about how to get started.
If they like a thick, bass-y, chewy, distorted sound, you want to make sure you’re using mics that capture that low-frequency stuff with good definition and not get muddy or soft. If the kind of guitar sound they’re shooting for is very bright and very crisp and dry, you’ll want to make sure to avoid using mics that can have some resonance or bloom to them that will soften that sort of precision.
I think it’s a bad idea to have a standard method where when whatever guitarist walks in you stick an SM57 on it and call it good. A lot of people do that as a default just because it resolves the issue quickly, and they can get on with their day and do more fancy stuff. But I think it’s absolutely critical to pair the microphone with the actual sound that’s coming out of the amp.
After having a conversation with the guitar player, understanding what their aesthetic is, I have them set up their gear and just play a bit, to get a feel what their playing style is like. Are they using a lot of feedback and sustain or are they hopping on a bunch of different pedals all the time? Is the sound derived from their playing style or from particular layering of pedals? Getting intimate with the exact specifics of the guitar style and sound and aesthetic guides you on what microphones to use and physically where to put them.
The main thing is not to have a preconceived notion about what mics are good for guitar. I’ve used everything from vocal-caliber condenser microphones to quite limited electret microphones to high-quality ribbon microphones to pawnshop junk microphones—I’ve used absolutely everything you can imagine on a guitar amp, and that selection is always based on the aesthetic of the person playing and then the actual sound that’s coming out of the cabinet. In your mind, you might have an idealized notion of what a heavy guitar sounds like or what a clean guitar sounds like, but until you get down on all fours and listen to the sound coming out of the speakers, you don’t really know what you’re dealing with.
“When you listen to the speaker when the guitar player is playing, the sound that’s coming off—you should consider that the goal. What you’re trying to do is you’re trying to make that sound happen in people’s homes.”
How do you interpret what you’re hearing then?
Albini: When you’re down on all fours listening, you need to be forming a mental image of what that sound is like. Are there spikes and dips in the frequency response? Is there a lot of granular treble detail? Is it a really smooth sound? Does it have a sort of billowing quality, like a trombone-like fundamental, or is it really dry and raspy? Even using wine-tasting words like that, it helps you form an internal image of what that guitar is supposed to sound like when you hear it on playback, and from your experience with your mic collection, you’ll know what microphones are best suited to sounds like that, or you’ll know where to start anyway.
When you listen to the speaker when the guitar player is playing, the sound that’s coming off—you should consider that the goal. What you’re trying to do is you’re trying to make that sound happen in people’s homes.
Steve Albini's Gear
Hands on faders, Albini and his team at Electrical Audio are “constantly in session, constantly under fire.”
Photo by Kevin Tiongson
Guitars
- Travis Bean TB500
Amps
- Tapco/Intersound IVP Preamp
- Fender Bassman
- Custom homemade speaker enclosure based on Electro-Voice TL Series plans with 10" and 12" Celestion Greenbacks
Effects
- Interfax Harmonic Percolator
- MXR Smartgate
Strings and Picks
- Ice picks with the points cut off
- D’Addario XLs (.012–.016–.020w–.028–.038–.048)
Once you’ve chosen a mic, what’s next in the decision-making process?
Albini: One thing that I do that I think is probably distinctly different from what a lot of other engineers do, I tend to have whatever microphone I’m using on the guitar in the middle of the speaker cone, and I don’t generally use microphones pressed up close to the grille cloth right next to the speaker. I tend to use microphones at a working distance of between eight and 14 inches from the cabinet.
A lot of engineers made their bones as live engineers, where they’re trying to get isolation on stage, so they have the mics as close as possible to the speaker cabinet, and that practice translated into the studio. I experimented with that technique because I saw everybody else doing it, but I just never got good results with it. It always sounded slightly tweaked and muffled and weird. I found that when I put the microphone dead center on the speaker, then the sound hitting the microphone sounded more like what I heard when I was down on all fours listening to the speaker myself.
Working distance has a big effect on the sound quality. If the microphone is choked up tight on the speaker, you get a lot more low-frequency energy. You get a lot more muscular pumping low end from the proximity effect of the microphone, and, especially with ribbon microphones that are bi-directional and have a fairly exaggerated proximity effect, you can really use that to tune the response of the microphone. So, I say that I use a working distance of between eight and 14 inches. If I’m in the closer part of that range, six to eight inches from the speaker, there’s going to be a lot more of the sub low end emphasized in a bi-directional ribbon microphone, and that can be great to add weight and heaviness to a heavy guitar.
Then, if the microphone is backed off more like 12 to 14 inches, then you get much more of an overall picture of the sound of the cabinet, where it’s not emphasizing any particular region, for lack of a better word. It’s a flatter representation of the sound coming off the speaker. Being able to tune the behavior of the microphone by moving the microphone in and out just by a matter of inches can make a noticeable difference in the sound quality.
At this point in your career, do you know what mic to use as soon as you listen to someone’s playing?
Albini: It’s really rare for me to listen to a speaker, listen to somebody playing guitar, grab a microphone, put it up, and have it be right in the first instance. When that does happen sometimes, you feel like a fucking genius. That’s really satisfying. That means the first 30 years of your career weren’t wasted, but it doesn’t happen often.
Often, you have to move the microphone, or sometimes you have to swap the microphone out completely, like this microphone just can’t handle that much high end, it sounds too raspy, it’s just too midrange forward, it starts to sound nasal and different parts of the playing vocabulary can sound different as well. Sometimes, you’ll have a setup that sounds amazing when the guitarist is just playing rhythm stuff, but then when they go up the strip and start showing off, it can be too piercing or too woolly sounding, so it’s often a good idea to have a complement microphone.
“It’s really rare for me to listen to a speaker, listen to somebody playing guitar, grab a microphone, put it up, and have it be right in the first instance. When that does happen sometimes, you feel like a fucking genius.”
You’ll have a couple of microphones in the same position, one that is maybe a brighter, drier sound and one that’s maybe a fatter, darker sound. And that way you can either balance those microphones against each other for a composite sound or use them in stereo to synthesize a stereo image. Or when the lead kicks in, you can nudge the brighter microphone for a little bit more bite and attack.
I think having an ambient character available on the recording often helps with the sense of realism. If you’re just using a single guitar, for example, then having an ambient microphone that you can use to create a stereo image helps add to the sensation of hearing the sound in a room, even if it’s a very dry room. Having close mics on the amp and then also having a distant mic out in the room eight or 10 feet away gives you a little bit of air on that secondary mic, which you can then use to create a stereo image to help localize the guitar in the stereo image of the whole thing.
All of those little things, if you don’t have it set up so you have those kinds of options available, then you can’t make those choices down the road. I have been in sessions where some engineers have an array of microphones around a speaker cabinet. They’ll have eight or 10 microphones in a sort of swarm around a speaker cabinet. And that, to me, just speaks of really poor decision making. If you’re recording eight or 10 microphones at once and with the idea that you’ll sort it all out later, that just puts all your critical decisions off until the last minute and means that you’re going to make those decisions poorly. I think it’s much, much better to listen to it on the first playback and decide if you are on the right track or not. And if you’re not, just stop and fix it. Don’t just carry on with the plan to deal with it later, because when you get to later, you just have way too much shit to deal with.
Onstage with Shellac, Albini wields “Old Ironsides,” his Travis Bean TB500. Behind the guitarist lurks his customized amp head, which contains a Tapco/Intersound IVP Preamp and Fender Bassman, and his homemade speaker cabs.
Photo by Tim Bugbee
It’s like it creates option anxiety, and at that point, you’re just making the mix all that much longer.
Albini: Yeah, it’s not even the amount of effort that it takes. I don’t think it’s possible to make 10,000 critical decisions simultaneously and have them all be as valid as if you were to make those decisions one at a time as they came up with all your attention and full consideration. So, while you’re setting up the guitar, figure out which microphones you want to use and commit to them, and once you’ve committed to them, then that decision is made, and you can just get on with your day and you don’t ever need to re-litigate those decisions.
I also feel like over the course of working on a record, you get acclimated to the sound that you’re listening to, and then that becomes the basis on which you make other decisions. If you pull the plug on that by changing the sound around at the last minute, then all of those predicate decisions that were made based on that original place keeper have somewhat been invalidated. And I think that’s a dangerous thing as well.
In one of the videos on the Electrical Audio YouTube page, you talk about developing your practices through an iterative process of trial and error. Is experimentation still a part of your process?
Albini: I actively question myself and verify my preconceptions or challenge my preconceptions. One nice way to do that in a kind of a programmatic way is something I stole from Bob Weston, the bass player in the band Shellac that I’m in. He’s also a fine recording engineer and mastering engineer. I read an interview with him maybe 15 years ago where he said that on every session he does, he tries to do just one thing that he’s never done before. It might be the choice of microphone or positioning a microphone or a processing choice or a routing, just something, and that seemed brilliant to me. Just a very simple way to make sure that you’re always expanding your repertoire and always expanding your knowledge base. You don’t get set in your habits. And so, I stole that, and I do that to this day.
“While you’re setting up the guitar, figure out which microphones you want to use and commit to them, and once you’ve committed to them, then that decision is made, and you can just get on with your day and you don’t ever need to re-litigate those decisions.”
Also, microphones come in over the transom. There are microphones being designed and invented every day, and we get a chance to hear a lot of those either as trial or because people want our opinions on them. They’ll send them to us to put them in use for a while and play around with them. So, I get to play around with stuff that I’ve never heard before pretty regularly, and I like to try microphones I’ve never heard before.
This has proven enormously valuable over the course of the last 15 or 20 years. My routine behaviors have changed quite a bit as a result of these little, tiny experiments that I’ve done one at a time.
With Shellac bandmates Todd Trainer (drums) and Bob Weston (bass) in view, the most legendary Harmonic Percolator is at Steve’s feet, next to his MXR Smart Gate. If you’re wondering, Albini uses a waist strap for his guitar.
Photo by Jordi Vidal
I would imagine that, making as many records as you do, that’s like constant revision.
Albini: I promise you, the moment you get complacent about how you do things, someone will show up with a rig that’s freakish in a way you’ve never encountered before.
I did an album with the group Sunn O))). Their music is really slow-moving, impossibly heavy riffs, but the sound is really minimal. It’s just two guitars most of the time. In the studio, they added a few guests. One of is Hildur Guðnadóttir; she plays the cello.
There’s an instrument that was invented for her by a friend of hers called the halldorophone. It’s an electric cello that has built into it an amplifier and loudspeaker, so it’s a self-resonating, self-feeding-back, infinite-sustain cello. It’s a super bizarre thing, but she’s an expert. There’s one in the world and I’m staring at it and I have to figure out how to record it.
The fact that I am confronted with these new and different things all the time means that my vocabulary and my skillset and my facilities are constantly being tested and improved. And that’s one of the great joys, for me anyway, of doing what I do for a living, that I do get to do these freakish things once in a while.
You use a small pedal setup as a player, but you’re engaging with different kinds of players all the time. What do you think about modern pedal technology?
Albini: The stage that we are at now, where every player in every band has a pedalboard and have this sort of a curated collection of sounds that they come up with, I actually got a preview of that in the late ’80s. The first time I went to Japan, most guitarists that I worked with had a pedalboard with a half a dozen pedals on it, and that’s how they would craft their sound. They could bring that anywhere and plug it into any amp and they’d be happy.
Something very similar is happening now in the U.S. where a lot of people are doing demo recording at home through modeling amps or through interfaces, and rather than using an amplifier for its inherent qualities, they’re kind of defeating the amplifier by using pedals as the principal source of their sound. It’s a trend. I don’t really have an opinion about it.
“I promise you, the moment you get complacent about how you do things, someone will show up with a rig that’s freakish in a way you’ve never encountered before.”
There are some people who are more adept at it than others, but it’s absolutely the case that most players in most bands now have multiple pedals that they’re using, and the songs are arranged in a way where you use this combination for this part and this combination for this part. And nothing about it seems bad to me. It’s a little more cumbersome, especially when you’re in the studio and you’re trying to track down problems. But when you see somebody who’s really put some thought and attention into it and they’re really using the pedals in an expressive way….
I did a session with Reba Myers from Code Orange. She has this really expansive pedal setup where she’s got a main soundboard where the general tone for a given song comes from, and then she’s got a kind of an expression board, which is just all the crazy shit, and she’s constantly going back and forth. She’s an example of someone who’s put a lot of thought and attention into the specifics of the pedalboard and is using it as a creative tool. I’ve seen other people where it’s kind of pro forma—like, Kiss wore funny outfits on stage, and so for a while a lot of bands felt obliged to wear funny outfits on stage.
I know some old school guys are like, ‘Plug the guitar straight into the amp, and if you can’t get it done with that, you’re not a real musician,’ or whatever. That’s horse shit. That’s just boomer shit. I’m not into that at all.
How Steve Albini Gets His Guitar Sound
How did your personal guitar sound develop over the years?
Albini: When I was in Big Black, that band was predicated on the do-it-cheap, do-it-quick, take-no-prisoners approach. That was very much the cornerstone of the behavior in the punk rock scene. Don’t try to get it perfect, just get it. So, everything about that band was done sort of extemporaneously. I made the first Big Black record on my own in my apartment, so I needed an amplifier that I could use for either guitar or bass. I stumbled onto this bizarre preamp called the Tapco/Intersound IVP. It had a clean channel and a distorted channel. I didn’t find much use for the clean channel, but the distorted channel sounded great on either bass or guitar—or great toward my aesthetic at the moment, which was a pretty brutal one.
When Shellac started, I was looking for a fatter, fuller sound than the scrabble-scratchy sound I had with Big Black. I eventually gravitated toward the Fender Bassman as the perfect tube amp for me. But when I would play just the Bassman, I missed a little bit of the bite and the sizzle from the old transistor days. So, I ended up making a hybrid setup with the Tapco IVP preamp, typically recorded direct. And then on stage, I’ll have a monitor cabinet for it that has a horn in it, so it’s like a full-range speaker, and the Fender Bassman going into a fairly bass-y cabinet, typically a 4x12 when we’re on tour in Europe and we’re using backline.
The cabinets that Bob and I made for our amps—I have two Celestion greenbacks in that, a 10" and a 12"—are based on the TL series cabinet that are the published plans that Electro-Voice made available for using their speakers in an enclosure. If you just built a cabinet along those published plans, you would end up with exactly what Bob and I use for our speaker setups.
When you record yourself for a Shellac album, do you always use the same gear?
Albini: No, it has been different on literally every session. I often use the amp that I use on stage. Often, I do not. Often, I’ll use some other transistor amp and some other tube amp as the two complement signals. It’s essentially always two amplifiers, a transistor amp and a tube amp. The transistor amp is typically being recorded direct, and the tube amp is always recorded acoustically through a speaker cabinet with microphones and stuff.
But I have used an Orange OR80. There’s an amp that was made by a company called Sam Amp, and I believe there are very few of them in the world, but I ended up with one of them, and I’ve used the Sam Amp. I’ve used the Traynor YBA-3, Traynor YBA-1, a Marshall JTM-45. I’ve used a lot of different amplifiers for the studio recordings.
The Travis Bean that I use is such an indestructible sound. It’s weird that I’m so fussy about my amp because I’ve demonstrated myself that it kind of doesn’t matter what amp I play through, I can always get something that I like out of it.
We did a tour of Japan very early in the band’s tenure, right after we started. In Japan, it’s normal practice for the venue to have a backline. Every night it was a different, quite crappy by our standards, amplifier on stage. One night, it was a Roland Jazz Chorus. I used a Guyatone amplifier several times, and other Japanese brand names that I was unfamiliar with. Every night sounded fine. As specific as I am about what I like and don’t like, I have sort of taught myself that it’s not that important and that I can zero in on what I like and don’t like about even an imperfect setup.
For pedals, do you use anything other than the Harmonic Percolator, which you’re most known for using?
Albini: I’ve used a noise gate since I first started playing on stage. For many, many years it was just one of the original old-school MXR noise gates. They’ve all crapped out and been repaired and crapped out again many times. There’s an updated version of that MXR called the Smart Gate. I switched over to that. It’s set so that I can just touch the guitar and it opens up, but if I’m not actively playing it, it doesn’t open.
The output of the noise gate goes into the fuzz tone. And the fuzz tone has been a Harmonic Percolator [made by Interfax] since, I want to say, 1986. My friend Jay Tiller from Milwaukee worked at a head shop, record shop, and pawn shop combo in Milwaukee called Record Head. When I was there one time, he said, ‘We have this cool fuzz tone this guy made here. You should try it out.’ And I loved it. So, I bought one from him, and then over the years, I’ve bought a couple more when he stumbled across them at record swap or whatever, or at guitar fairs or whatever, he’s picked them up and I got ’em from him.
I’ve referred to the Percolator as a labor-saving device, because as soon as you hit the switch, the guitar just starts playing. I don’t even need to tell it what notes or anything. It just goes, and that’s my favorite thing about the Percolator, how it’s completely unhinged using it for feedback or whatever. It will choose little melodies that it wants to play, and it’ll just whistle them for you. But you kind of need to be physically moving. I’ve noticed that if you stand in one spot, it just squeals. But if you’re moving around, if the distance between you and your amplifier changes, then the fundamental frequency changes from the physical distance, and you get these really great psychedelic melodies that it creates.
Have you played any of the Percolator clones?
Albini: They all sound very slightly different, but they’re all basically the same. Chuck Collins made a complete, meticulous resurrection of the Harmonic Percolator [through his company, Theremaniacs] a few years ago—those are absolutely perfect. They respond exactly the same way. They sound the same. Almost all the others that I have seen—people send them to me because they feel like I should pass my hands over their Percolator or whatever, I’ve had maybe six or eight others—I can’t use any of ’em. They all behave differently somehow.
I think one of the perversions of my setup is that coming out of the noise gate, the signal into the Percolator is buffered, so it sounds different if you just plug your guitar straight into it, and I never do that.
How a not-so-special silver-panel amp was transformed into solid gold.
Let me share a tale about a very enjoyable and educational gear purchase. It involves a celebrity-owned vintage Fender amp, and tonal disappointments followed by experimentation. It’s about how I turned a disappointing purchase into what became—and still is—my main gigging amp. Having used this amp on approximately 100 gigs, I’ve really gotten a return for the initial $1,195 investment, not even counting the valuable learning it has given me. So, this is the story of my Linda Ronstadt Deluxe Reverb.
In 2010, I found a vintage Fender amp on eBay that really caught my eye. It was a celebrity-owned ’71 silver-panel Deluxe Reverb with 6L6GCs that had been modded and sported a powerful and heavy JBL D120F speaker. It came with a vintage, blue, road-worn flight case that looked like it had been around the globe a dozen times. The amp circuit had been entirely re-wired to AB763 black-panel specs, with all caps replaced with newer orange drops and about half of the resistors replaced. (I later swapped out the silver control panel to match.) You could see by the component leg twisting, soldering, and cutting that the work was done properly. The plastic wires were even replaced with high quality BF-style cloth-covered wires.
The number 13 was sprayed on the blue flight case, and the amp had “Ronstadt 18” sprayed on the its upper and lower back panels, indicating that the amp belonged to a band with a crew that handled the backline equipment. It seemed to have been a working musician’s instrument and had been well looked after. The whole package was promising. After a short bidding round, I ended up paying $1,195 to its owner, an acquaintance of the Linda Ronstadt band.
Six weeks later, the amp arrived safely at my house in a flight case that smelled bad but looked fantastic. I immediately swapped the original 110V power transformer for a Mercury Magnetics 230V version. My first impression was that it sounded firm and mean, with a harsh attack and gritty treble. But it was too sensitive on the treble pot to my liking, and my Jimi Strat with Fender CS69 pickups didn’t sound good thorough it. The tone was cold and shrill at both lower and higher volumes. I wasn’t able to tame it with the EQ knobs on my guitar, pedals, or the amp. It was either too muddy or too bright. Maybe this was the reason the amp was sold? I spent days playing around with it, trying different guitars and pedals. I managed to find satisfying tone only at loud volumes with a Tube Screamer, which removes both the upper treble and lower bass (the SRV trick).
A backside view of the Ronstadt Deluxe Reverb, with its lineage tattooed in white paint.
I wanted more. I wanted to play this amp without a Tube Screamer and find a more balanced tone. There was no point in keeping a bad-sounding celebrity amp. My goal was to make it smoother and warmer, with less attack. I started by disengaging the bright cap on the vibrato channel, which tamed the upper treble and allowed me to turn the treble pot beyond 4. All reissue Deluxe Reverb owners with newer Jensen C12N speakers should try disengaging the bright cap. Second, I installed a mid switch on the back, instead of the no-longer-relevant ground switch. This mid switch acts as a fat boost and selects between the stock 6.8k resistor and a fatter 22k resistor, to offer more mids. Immediately, there were improvements. The added mids pushed the power amp circuitry into more warmth, crunch, and distortion. I could’ve also installed a 25k pot instead of the mid switch, to have endless mid levels to choose from. But simplicity is king. Having only two choices makes life easier.
Some other mods to reduce the clean headroom followed. I inserted a 5U4GB rectifier tube instead of the GZ34, for less attack and more sag and compression, and pulled out the V1 preamp tube to increase the preamp signal level, pushing the preamp and power amp sections harder.
This road case, which arrived in stinky but durable condition, was part of the eBay deal that brought the Deluxe into Jens Mosbergvik’s collection of Fenders.
The results were rewarding! The shrill treble was tamed and my pick attack was smooth and just snappy and responsive enough. The treble was balanced by punchy lower mids, improving the overall EQ balance. Now the amp was more sympathetic and supported more and different kinds of guitars. No boost or overdrive pedal was needed. With these mods, the Deluxe became a perfect player’s amp, and definitely a keeper. A punchy Deluxe Reverb with 6L6s delivers approximately 30 to 35 watts, so can cope with larger stages and settings.
In the ensuing years, I’ve done further experiments with this amp—most significantly inserting a larger 8 ohm output transformer from a Vibroverb, and a power transformer from a Super Reverb, as well as upgrading the big DC and filter caps to support the higher plate voltage. Together with an EVM12L speaker, this amp gave me a superb Stevie Ray Texas Flood tone. Right now, I use an Eminence Maverick speaker with an inbuilt 9 dB attenuator that can turn the volume down to a Princeton Reverb level, while still achieving full tube breakup. Yes, I know. It’s awesome!
Cop-call-deterring boxes from Weber, Two Notes, Bugera, Radial, Mesa/Boogie, and more.
Sure, you could simply roll down your amp’s volume when you receive the evil eye (or worse) from your bandmates, engineer, spouse, or neighbor, but then your tonal sweet spot disappears. We’ve rounded up 10 attenuation options, from $50 to $550, that’ll let you hit your amp as hard as you like, while still maintaining your friendships.
Torpedo Captor X
Not just an attenuator, this little powerhouse also functions as an IR loader and cab simulator, and can be paired with your laptop or mobile device for expansive tone shaping.
Little Black Amp Box
This inexpensive and different device to attenuate allows you to tame your volume—while still pushing your amp’s front end—by placing it in your series effects loop.
Brake-Lite
For any tube amp up to 45 watts, and for use with 4, 8, or 16 ohm loads, this attenuator mounts inside your favorite combo and out of the way while you enjoy bedroom-level audio volumes.
Ironman II Mini
Ideal for tube amps up to 30 watts, and pedalboard friendly, this petite version of the company’s 100-watt unit attenuates your amp’s volume with the very same reactive load and transformer-coupled tech.
PS1 Power Soak
Priced attractively, this 100-watt unit’s multi-impedance input connectors will match virtually any amplifier for cranked-amp tone at manageable volumes.
Reducer
Developed in coordination with Tonehunter amps, this passive, point-to-point handwired attenuator features 200-watt power soak and is suited for amps with 4, 8, and 16 ohms.
MiniMASS
Designed for 35-watt amps and lower, this box features a 3-position treble compensation switch and an actual speaker motor for realistic interaction between the attenuator and the amp’s output circuit.
Headload Prodigy
This load box offers selectable output levels or complete attenuation, and features a built-in DI and EQ as well as an onboard headphone amp for those times you need to be completely silent.
POWERHOUSE
Rated for guitar amps up to 150 watts, this attenuator features five levels of power reduction, a 3-position voicing switch (normal, bright, or warm), and a speaker/load switch for options galore.
RockCrusher Gold Face
Boasting balanced XLR and unbalanced 1/4" outs for easy interfacing, this attenuator/load box was designed to ensure the amp and speaker see each other in a proper relationship of impedance and inductive/capacitive reactance.
How to make a Bassman, Twin, or Super Reverb sound more Experienced.
In my July column about achieving classic sounds with various Fender amp and guitar pairings, I briefly mentioned the black-panel Bassman as a tonal gateway for Hendrix fans. Let me go a bit deeper into the topic of chasing Jimi's tones with Fender tube amps.
Most players might think they need a Marshall to emulate Hendrix, and that Fenders are way too clean, bright, and twangy for the sustaining distortion and feedback. That is partly, but not completely, true. Hendrix's crazier lead tones did not come from his amps alone, but from amps and pedals paired in the studio, and he played a lot of Fender amps. I think learning Jimi's picking technique and chordal approach are more important than learning to cop his tone, and, according to biographies, he actually wasn't very much focused on gear. Still, he did create a signature sound and I've developed ways to dial it in.
Early in his career, Hendrix played Fender and Sunn amps, among others. But in most photos that were taken of him onstage, he is holding a Strat in front of Marshall stacks with Super Lead or JTM45 heads. Let's look a bit closer at the JTM45. When released in 1962, the circuit was based on the 1958 to 1960 Fender Bassman—a 40-watt, tube-rectified, dual 5881-tube, push/pull amp feeding four Jensen 10" P10R alnico speakers in a combo-style cabinet. In fact, it was almost identical.
Fender's narrow-panel tweed amps have inspired numerous amp builders and manufacturers, right to this day, and the most famous are probably the 5F6-A circuit Bassman, 5e3 Deluxe, and 5E8-A Twin. In my opinion, they are the best-looking guitar amps of all time and they excel at both clean and crunchy tones.
The Bassman has several EQ possibilities through its airy 4x10 cabinet, with full-spectrum tone and crunch that makes it a great Hendrix-style amp when pushed. The most significant change in the JTM45 was the closed-speaker cabinet with 12" Celestion G12Ms in pairs or quads. Jim Marshall did this to make his amp louder, firmer, and punchier, but it also became more mid-focused. A bigger power transformer added further to the punch and firmness. A 12AX7 in the V1 preamp spot instead of a weaker 12AY7 also made the amp louder but did not change the tone. There were minor changes in EQ cap values and the negative feedback resistor, partly because of component availability. That made the tone controls act differently, with more mids in both the bass and treble pots. Summarized, the JTM45 is louder and has more mids and therefore more distortion. However, I think most players would not tell these amps apart in a blind test if they were played through the same speaker cabinet.
Out of respect for history, you should never remove an original Jensen speaker in a vintage Fender amp unless it's seriously damaged.
So, my advice for getting Jimi's tone with the tweed Bassman, vintage or reissue, is to lower the bass to prevent fart-out, set the volume high for a raw, unfiltered sound, and use the guitar volume to dial back to a cleaner and more mellow voice. If you manage to tame the brightness across the amp, pedals, and guitar, you will be greatly rewarded with a detailed, nuanced response to picking, fretting, bending, vibrato, and other work on the fretboard.
Staying in the tweed era, the 5E8-A circuit Twin is also useful for Hendrix-style distortion, and its 12" speakers will put you closer to a Marshall's solid punch. The Twin doesn't break up as quickly as the Bassman, but you can pull one of the two rectifier tubes to compensate, and get more sag and less clean headroom. The vintage tweed version of this amp has dual 5U4GA rectifier tubes, and the reissue has dual 5U4GBs. Thanks to Fender for not going with a more efficient single GZ34 but keeping it essentially vintage-correct.
Fender has reissued the tweed Bassman and low-power Twin as the '59 Bassman LTD and '57 Custom Twin-Amp. You can put vintage-appropriate Celestion G12M speakers in the reissue Twin for a more classic Marshall-style tone. For the reissue Bassman, I think the best route to a Hendrix tone is replacement WGS 10" Veteran speakers. But a word of caution: Out of respect for history, you should never remove an original Jensen speaker in a vintage Fender amp unless it's seriously damaged.
Finally, we've come to the black-panel/silver-panel Fender Bassman 50-watt and the Super Reverb. Of the three black-panel Bassman circuits—AA864, AA165, and AB165—the AB165 distorts the most. But it lacks a British flavor unless you install a 25k mid pot in place of the fixed 6.8k mid resistor. The mid knob then acts as a crunch control, so it's definitely worth the effort of installation. The black-panel Super Reverb with Jensen P10R or CTS ceramic speakers is quite similar to the Tweed Bassman. If you dial the mids high, lower the bass, and push it really hard … you almost have a Tweed Bassman tone with combined distortion from the preamp, power amp, and speakers. As always, for more crunch at lower volumes you may disengage two of the speakers, use a 12AX7 V6 position phase inverter tube, and pull the V1 tube.
Go online to see my video exploring some of these sounds. Meanwhile, excuse me while I kiss the sky.
[Updated 7/26/21]