We test high-end sets from Amalfitano, Fender, Klein, Manlius, and Mojotone in a carefully calibrated American Vintage ’56 Stratocaster.
The Fender Stratocaster is perhaps the most popular electric guitar of all time. So why have so many people altered the pickup design since the instrument’s 1954 debut?
Many players—even Strat fanatics—have a love/hate relationship with the guitar’s pickups, and pickup modifications are almost as old as the model itself. The pickups in early models employed alnico 3 magnets, but louder, brighter alnico 5s became standard within a few years. Subsequent departures include higher-output bridge pickups for fatter, less shrill lead tones, hum-cancelling designs, and non-staggered magnets to accommodate modern string tastes and flatter neck radiuses.
Still, many players swear by the original design, and for this roundup, we went the ultra-vintage route. We asked participants to submit period-correct pickup sets based on these criteria:
• Traditional materials and structure.
• Traditional number of winds.
• Alnico 5 magnets.
• Formvar-coated wire. (Formvar is the resin film that insulates the copper wire on traditional Strat pickups.)
• Staggered magnets—that is, magnets of varied height in relation to the strings, as found on vintage Strat pickups. (Whether staggered magnets are desirable for modern players is a subject in itself. See the “Is It Better to Stagger or Be Straight” sidebar.)
There really isn’t much to a Strat pickup: just coated copper wire, a bobbin to wrap it around, six little magnets, and the insulated wires that link the pickup to the guitar’s circuitry. Yet there’s much room for variation within those narrow parameters. Extra winds of wire produce a hotter pickup. Degaussing (demagnetizing) the magnets yields a softer, smoother tone reminiscent of an old pickup. Different grades of alnico yield different tones. Even two “strictly vintage” pickups can sound quite different.
Players seeking vintage Strat pickups have many options—far more than covered here! When selecting participants, we chose companies not represented in our last major pickup roundup, which included models from DiMarzio, Fralin, GFS, Gibson, Harmonic Designs, Lollar, and Seymour Duncan. This time around, our lovely contestants are from Fender’s Custom Shop and four smaller companies: Amalfitano, Klein, Manlius, and Mojotone.
Spoiler Alert
Might as well say it up front: I like all five of these sets. That may sound like a timid editor scared of making enemies, but it happens to be true. Each is lovingly handmade from quality, period-correct materials. If you passed me an old Strat with any of these beneath the pickup covers and told me they were original, I’d have no reason to doubt you. I’d perform and record with any of these sets without hesitation. Every single pickups sounds authentically “old Strat,” and any of these sets would provide a major upgrade for, say, an entry-level Fender Squier Stratocaster or inexpensive Strat-style guitars from other manufacturers.
Each set looks authentically vintage, from the period-correct bobbins to the wax-coated cloth push-back wire. In fact, I don’t even discuss physical appearance in the individual write-ups. Same with the workmanship—every pickup appears perfectly well made, which is why each set receives an identical build-quality rating.
Still, there are meaningful variations between models, and with luck, my observations can steer you to the model that best suits your needs and tastes. But don’t expect us to declare which model sounds the “most vintage.” Like much music gear from a half-century ago, old Strat pickups are like snowflakes: No two are exactly alike.
All pickups were tested at equal height, thanks to the ever-useful Stew-Mac string action gauge.
Testing Procedures
I removed as many variables as possible while testing. I auditioned and recorded every pickup in the same instrument: a shell-pink American Vintage ’56 Stratocaster with a one-piece maple neck. I set pickup height according to Fender’s official recommendations (6/64" on the bass side with the 6th string pressed against the 21st fret, and 5/64" on the treble side with the 1st string pressed against the same fret). The test guitar has a vintage-style 7.25" fretboard radius. (Many modern Strats have flatter radiuses, or even compound ones, which makes a big difference in relative string volume when combined with traditional staggered-magnet pickups, as discussed in the “Is It Better to Stagger or Be Straight?” sidebar.)
You’ll hear all five pickup-selector positions for all five sets. I concocted a short demo piece for each pickup-selector position and used the same music for each set. All these clips employ clean sounds because these most clearly reveal variations between models. But to paint a fuller picture (and relieve the monotony), there’s also a dirty clip for each set. Here I didn’t try to match performances: I just plugged into a homemade, vintage-correct Fuzz Face clone—fully cranked—and merrily wanked away. In each case, though, the distorted clip starts in position 5 (bridge pickup alone) and then switches to position 1 (neck pickup alone).
Likewise, the recording setup was identical for every pickup. I tracked all the clean clips directly into Logic Pro via a Universal Audio Apollo interface with no compression, EQ, or other effects. Input settings never varied. After all the clips were captured, I reamped each one through a Carr Skylark amp (a 12-watt, 1x12 combo amp inspired by Fender’s vintage small-format amps) in a single session. All controls were at noon and never budged. The mic was a Royer R-121, a sweet-sounding ribbon model. The mic position remained constant. Meanwhile, the dirty clips were played directly into the amp without reamping, using the same setup as for the clean sounds.
String choice is a major tonal factor, especially with staggered-magnet Strat pickups. While I was tempted to go full vintage with a period-correct set of heavy-gauge flatwounds, it seemed wiser to install a roundwound set closer to what most modern players use (though I kept things a bit vintage with an all-nickel DR Pure Blues Nickel Heavy set gauged .011–.050).
But to illustrate how staggered-magnet pickups sound with the sort of strings they were designed for, I also recorded an all-original ’63 Strat with a high-end Thomastik-Infeld flatwound set. (See the “Is It Better to Stagger or Be Straight?” sidebar.) But I didn’t compare the new pickups directly to the ones in the old Strat because there are too many other variables at play: dry old wood, a rosewood fretboard, ancient hardware, worn finish, etc.
Other Considerations
A few more things to keep in mind while comparing pickup sounds:
• While I tried to play the demo parts as consistently as possible, there’s inevitably some variation between performances.
• Some sets come with pickup covers. Some don’t. But it’s not a big deal. If you’re retrofitting a Strat, you already have usable covers. If you desire a unique look or a color that matches an antique-looking pickguard, a stock white cover won’t help. Strat pickup covers are available in many colors, and they’re cheap—prices range from two to four dollars per cover.
• Each pickup review includes a DC resistance value, expressed in ohms. More coil winds mean more output, a hotter pickup, and a higher DCR number. There isn’t a vast range of values among the 15 tested pickups—the lowest-output one is 5.68k (that is, 5,680 ohms), while the hottest is 6.48k. Modern “overwound” Strat pickups can be far hotter: the DCR of a DiMarzio Virtual Vintage Solo is 11.17k, while the Seymour Duncan Custom Flat Strat delivers a walloping 13.3k. But even relatively small differences can be audible. We’ve included two sets of DCR values: the ones advertised, and the actual bench measurements. (That’s not to imply that anyone is being dishonest—minor unit-to-unit variation is expected.)
• Finally, be aware that pickup makers tend to be exceedingly customer-oriented. Some small companies wind to order, and even the large ones have custom shops ready to customize on request. You might ask for higher output, a different magnet type, or staggered magnets instead of straight ones, and vice-versa.
Strat’s All, Folks!
There are no losers here. Every time I switched sets, my gut reaction was, “Damn, that sounds good!” Listening back later to the test recordings only reinforces that impression.
There are many fine vintage-style Strat replacement pickups to choose from, and these five are but the tip of a massive iceberg. A couple of these sets are closest to my heart, but if another player had written this up, others might easily have come out on top. The colors vary, but the quality doesn’t.
Thanks to Fender’s Jason Farrell for loaning us our cool test guitar.
So enough preamble. Let’s hear some cool pickups!
Amalfitano Custom/Vintage Strat Set
DC resistance:
- Bridge: 6.7k (advertised), 6.48k (measured)
- Middle: 6.3k (advertised), 6.33k (measured)
- Neck: 6.3 (advertised), 6.24k (measured)
To hear each pickup position alongside the other reviewed models, see “Five Pickups, Side by Side.”
Amalfitano is a perfect example of a customization-friendly shop: Jerry Amalfitano’s stock vintage Strat trio, the ’62 Set, employs alnico 3 magnets, as did the earliest Strats. But when we requested an alnico 5 set for review, he quickly made one, and he assures us that any customer can make similar requests. (The Custom/Vintage set heard here is the only entry in this roundup that’s not a stock item.)
These are bold-sounding pickups with uncommonly powerful lows and intense upper-midrange presence. Like many Strat pickups, they can be a bit edgy when playing clean in position 1 (bridge pickup alone), but bountiful lows balance that upper-mid bite. That 2 kHz edge pays dividends in other ways: positions 2 and 4 have a gorgeous airy quality, while distorted notes maintain a crisp attack. There’s nice, zingy sustain at all settings.
This is the highest-output set tested—and at $100 per pickup, the most expensive.
Ratings
Pros:
Excellent definition clean and distorted. Hefty lows. Beautiful combined-pickup tones.
Cons:
Pricy.
Street:
$300
Amalfitano Custom/Vintage Strat Set
amalfitanopickups.com
Tones:
Versatility:
Build/Design:
Value:
Fender Custom Shop Custom ’54
DC resistance:- Bridge: 6.5k (advertised), 6.43k (measured)
- Middle: 5.9k (advertised), 6.21k (measured)
- Neck: 5.9k (advertised), 6.05k (measured)
To hear each pickup position alongside the other reviewed models, see “Five Pickups, Side by Side.”
If you averaged together every vintage Strat pickup, you might wind up with something like Fender Custom Shop’s Custom ’54s. They’re not too bright … not too bassy … not too hot … not too timid … and not too eccentric. They’re quintessentially Strat.
Tones are straightforward but attractive. Unlike some of these sets, Custom ’54s have no big bass bump and no particularly prominent treble frequencies. The bridge pickup is edgy at clean settings, as you’d expect from a traditional Strat. Positions 2 and 4 are relatively muted, yet they maintain a pretty sparkle. There’s no unwanted “woofiness” to the neck pickup—a scoop centered around 150 Hz keeps things clear without surrendering too many lows. Distorted lead tones are bright, but not brittle.
The Custom ’54 set sounds exactly how you’d expect a solid vintage-style Strat set to sound—and that’s precisely what many players desire. And at $199 per set, they’re an excellent deal.
Ratings
Pros:
Textbook vintage Strat tones. Great neck pickup clarity. Nice price.
Cons:
Too conventional for some?
Street:
$199
Company
fendercustomshop.com
Tones:
Ease of Use:
Build/Design:
Value:
Klein Epic Series 1959
DC resistance:- Bridge: 5.8k (advertised), 5.76k (measured)
- Middle: 6.0k (advertised), 5.86k (measured)
- Neck: 5.9k (advertised), 5.76k (measured)
To hear each pickup position alongside the other reviewed models, see “Five Pickups, Side by Side.”
According to his website, pickup maker Christopher Klein went to phenomenal lengths to create the Epic Series 1959: “We started by buying an original 1959,” he writes, “then we destroyed that pickup and sent the magnets to an independent laboratory to have the chemical composition analyzed to find out what proportion of elements comprise that magnet.” He claims similar obsessiveness with other construction detail as well.
I have no idea whether to credit research or a great ear, but the Epic Series 1959 set is simply magnificent. You know how most vintage Fenders sound great, but some sound magical? This set can probably nudge most guitars in that magical direction.
The Epic 1559s don’t sound odd in any regard—their tones are très Fender. Yet they just feel a bit more musical than most Strat pickups I’ve encountered. The neck pickup has plenty of treble snap, but there are no nasty spikes and just the right amount of compression—you can dig in hard on clean bridge tones without puncturing eardrums. The neck pickup sounds warm, but never woolly. The combined settings deliver the expected “hollowness,” but with uncommon fullness of tone. There’s great sustain—everything just sings. Note fundamentals are always solid—even bright settings have heft. And when you slather on the gain, chords and single-notes maintain great balance and definition.
Interesting detail: Most modern Strat sets—boutique and otherwise—employ a slightly hotter pickup in the neck position. With ’50s and ’60s Strats, it was luck of the draw—they just dropped in pickups without scaling their relative output. In this case, the middle pickup is the hottest. Is there a lesson here?
Ratings
Pros:
Superb tones in every setting. Neck pickup is bright, but never brutal.
Cons:
None.
Street:
$245
Klein Epic Series 1959 Set
kleinpickups.com
Tones:
Versatility:
Build/Design:
Value:
Manlius Vintage 62
DC resistance:- Bridge: 6.3k (advertised), 6.25k (measured)
- Middle: 6.2k (advertised), 6.11k (measured)
- Neck: 6.1k (advertised), 6.15k (measured)
- Bridge: 5.78k (advertised), 5.68k (measured)
- Middle: 6.12k (advertised), 6.22k (measured)
- Neck: 5.78k (advertised), 5.68k (measured)
To hear each pickup position alongside the other reviewed models, see “Five Pickups, Side by Side.”
Vintage 62 is a traditional-sounding set boasting attractive, articulate tones. The bridge pickup has the expected spank, but with relatively even treble response and no sore-thumb spikes. The neck pickup’s voice is slightly on the dark side, but in a good way—there’s enough snap to maintain strong note attack, and it provides an especially dramatic contrast to the bridge tone. There’s lovely, acoustic-like openness in position 2 and lush warmth in position 4. Distorted sounds strike a fine balance between fat and snappy. It was a blast playing them through a vintage Fuzz Face.
The Vintage 62 is the only set here with a reverse-wound, reverse-polarity (RW/RP) middle pickup. This wasn’t a feature on vintage Strats, but many modern players favor the arrangement because it provides humbucker-style noise cancelling in the combined-pickup settings. That’s a nice feature—if you play a venue with unusually awful wiring, you can survive by favoring positions 2 and 4. Some say a RW/RP middle pickup provides more “quack,” though I don’t perceive it here. Most pickup companies offer both standard and RW/RP middle pickups. (We probably should have requested non-RW/RP pickups for consistency’s sake, but—um—I forgot.)
This is the least expensive set here. It’s a steal at $180.
Ratings
Pros:
Excellent tonal range. Badass overdriven sounds. Great price.
Cons:
None.
Street:
$180
Manlius Vintage 62 Set
manliusguitar.com
Tones:
Versatility:
Build/Design:
Value:
Mojotone ’59 Clone
DC resistance:To hear each pickup position alongside the other reviewed models, see “Five Pickups, Side by Side.”
Would you like your Strat to sound the way it did in music stores in 1959? Or would you prefer it to sound like the same guitar 56 years later? If you favor the aged sound, Mojotone’s ’59 Clone may be the set for you.
All the sets covered provide authentically vintage tones, but no other sounds this old. A pickup’s tones tend to smooth out over time, largely due to weakening magnets. I have no idea whether Mojotone systematically degausses (demagnetizes) their magnets, but it sure sounds like it. Every settings is as rich, warm, and as smooth as decades-aged whiskey.
The result isn’t for everyone—this is the quietest of the five sets. It’s also the one with the most restrained treble attack, so it might not be the best choice if you prefer Strats that sizzle. But if you dig the mellowed warmth of a well-loved old axe, here you go! The instant I popped these into our test guitar, the instrument felt decades older. (And as on the Klein set covered above, the middle pickup, not the bridge, is the hottest. Food for thought?)
This set is a great choice if a bright Strat bridge pickup makes you flinch. Here, position 1 isn’t spanky/snappy—it has more of an open, acoustic-guitar-like character. Settings 2 and 4 don’t sparkle as much as on some of the other sets, but they offer lovely, burnished tones you can listen to for hours. The tones aren’t dark, exactly—“rounded” and “warm” are better adjectives. Same with the distorted sounds: they’re less pointy and aggressive than on the other pickups. If Strat pickups were cats, the other sets would snarl. This one purrs.
The ’59 Clone set may be too restrained for some. But for those who appreciate the deep, baked-in character of old guitars, this set is the one to beat. At $212, they’re a bargain.
Ratings
Pros:
Authentically “old-sounding.” Rich, nuanced tones.
Cons:
Not for those seeking snappy, aggressive tones.
Street:
$212
Mojotone ’59 Clone Set
mojotone.com
Tones:
Versatility:
Build/Design:
Value:
On vintage Strat pickups, the greatest height discrepancy is between the 2nd- and 3rd-string magnets, as seen on this modern Fender Custom Shop model.
Is It Better to Stagger or Be Straight?
Many modern Strats have “straight” pickup magnets—their height is more or less equal. Meanwhile, Strat pickups from the ’50s and ’60s (and vintage-style replicas like the sets covered here) have magnets of uneven height. The middle pair is closest to the strings, while the 5th- and 6th-string magnets are further away. The most dramatic variation is between the 2nd- and 3rd-string magnets. The former is furthest from the string, often as low as the bobbin itself, while the latter is usually tied for tallest.There’s a good reason for this arrangement, or at least there used to be: It provided the best volume balance between strings. But back when the Strat pickup was designed, most players used heavy flatwounds with a wound 3rd string. To illustrate how a Strat would have sounded back in the day, here are some clips of an all-original 1963 model strung with big flatwounds and a wound G:
I happen to dig that sound, but it’s just not how most modern players roll. Today’s guitarists favor lighter-gauge roundwounds with an unwound 3rd for easy string bending and louder, brighter tones. Also, few modern strings are pure nickel like the ones from 60 years ago (though light-gauge, pure-nickel roundwounds are available if you’re willing to pay a bit extra). Straight magnets are likelier to produce even string volume with such modern strings.
So only weirdos who love fat flatwounds should use staggered magnets, right?
Um, no. Since the mid ’60s, countless players—everyone from Hendrix to Clapton to Gilmour—have strung staggered-magnet Strats with light roundwound sets and unwound 3rd strings. To many listeners, the resulting tones are simply how a Strat is meant to sound. (And whether they realize it or not, good players who use this recipe are almost certainly adjusting their attack from string to string to balance levels.)
In recent years, there’s been another wrinkle: flatter fretboard radiuses. (The more inches, the flatter the fretboard: 7.25" is curvier than 10".) A flatter neck brings the inside strings even closer to the middle magnets, and the D and G strings can be too loud. (Though again, sensitive players tend to compensate via touch.)
So what’s the best option? Duh—try both and see which you prefer! But as a crude rule of thumb, use staggered magnets if you worship the tones of the classic-rock Strat masters, but go straight if your guitar has a modern fretboard with a flatter radius.
Are Strat Positions 2 and 4 Out of Phase?
Try this on any guitar forum: Refer to pickup position 2 and 4 as “out of phase” and someone will promptly inform you of your ignorance. But are they right?
It depends whether you ask an electrical engineer or an acoustician. True, the two-pickup settings on a Strat are not electronically out of phase in the way that, say, Jimmy Page wired his Les Paul to provide a true out-of-phase sound. (It’s a thin, strangled tone that you probably wouldn’t use much anyway.) So the electrical engineers have a point.
On the other hand, the “hollow” timbre we associate with positions 2 and 4 is precisely due to audio phase cancellation. You get a comparable result when, say, you track an acoustic guitar with two closely placed mics: a notched, almost phasey sound stemming from some, but not all, frequencies being out of phase between one listening point and the other. The distinctive tones of positions 2 and 4 are due to acoustic out-of-phaseness.
So peace, man—you’re both right. (Though you hold the moral high ground for not being a dick.)
Five Positions, Side by Side
This article is laid out so that you hear the five pickup-selector positions for each set on their own. But for ease of comparison, here are the same demo clips organized by position, not manufacturer.Position 1
Position 2
Position 3
Position 4
Position 5
Dirty
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Intermediate
Intermediate
• Learn classic turnarounds.
• Add depth and interest to common progressions.
• Stretch out harmonically with hip substitutions.
Get back to center in musical and ear-catching ways.
A turnaround chord progression has one mission: It allows the music to continue seamlessly back to the beginning of the form while reinforcing the key center in a musically interesting way. Consider the last four measures of a 12-bar blues in F, where the bare-bones harmony would be C7-Bb7-F7-F7 (one chord per measure). With no turn around in the last two measures, you would go back to the top of the form, landing on another F7. That’s a lot of F7, both at the end of the form, and then again in the first four bars of the blues. Without a turnaround, you run the risk of obscuring the form of the song. It would be like writing a novel without using paragraphs or punctuation.
The most common turnaround is the I-VI-ii-V chord progression, which can be applied to the end of the blues and is frequently used when playing jazz standards. Our first four turnarounds are based on this chord progression. Furthermore, by using substitutions and chord quality changes, you get more mileage out of the I-VI-ii-V without changing the basic functionality of the turnaround itself. The second group of four turnarounds features unique progressions that have been borrowed from songs or were created from a theoretical idea.
In each example, I added extensions and alterations to each chord and stayed away from the pure R-3-5-7 voicings. This will give each chord sequence more color and interesting voice leading. Each turnaround has a companion solo line that reflects the sound of the changes. Shell voicings (root, 3rd, 7th) are played underneath so that the line carries the sound of the written chord changes, making it easier to hear the sound of the extensions and alterations. All examples are in the key of C. Let’s hit it.
The first turnaround is the tried and true I-VI-ii-V progression, played as Cmaj7-A7-Dm7-G7. Ex. 1 begins with C6/9, to A7(#5), to Dm9, to G7(#5), and resolves to Cmaj7(#11). By using these extensions and alterations, I get a smoother, mostly chromatic melodic line at the top of the chord progression.
Ex. 2 shows one possible line that you can create. As for scale choices, I used C major pentatonic over C6/9, A whole tone for A7(#5), D Dorian for Dm9, G whole tone for G7(#5), and C Lydian for Cmaj7(#11) to get a more modern sound.
The next turnaround is the iii-VI-ii-V progression, played as Em7-A7-Dm7-G7 where the Em7 is substituted for Cmaj7. The more elaborate version in Ex. 3 shows Em9 to A7(#9)/C#, to Dm6/9, to G9/B, resolving to Cmaj7(add6). A common way to substitute chords is to use the diatonic chord that is a 3rd above the written chord. So, to sub out the I chord (Cmaj7) you would use the iii chord (Em7). By spelling Cmaj7 = C-E-G-B and Em7 = E-G-B-D, you can see that these two chords have three notes in common, and will sound similar over the fundamental bass note, C. The dominant 7ths are in first inversion, but serve the same function while having a more interesting bass line.
The line in Ex. 4 uses E Dorian over Em9, A half-whole diminished over A7(#9)/C#, D Dorian over Dm6/9, G Mixolydian over G9/B, and C major pentatonic over Cmaj7(add6). The chord qualities we deal with most are major 7, dominant 7, and minor 7. A quality change is just that… changing the quality of the written chord to another one. You could take a major 7 and change it to a dominant 7, or even a minor 7. Hence the III-VI-II-V turnaround, where the III and the VI have both been changed to a dominant 7, and the basic changes would be E7-A7-D7-G7.
See Ex. 5, where E7(b9) moves to A7(#11), to D7(#9) to G7(#5) to Cmaj9. My scale choices for the line in Ex. 6 are E half-whole diminished over E7(#9), A Lydian Dominant for A7(#11), D half-whole diminished for D7(#9), G whole tone for G7(#5), and C Ionian for Cmaj9.
Ex. 7 is last example in the I-VI-ii-V category. Here, the VI and V are replaced with their tritone substitutes. Specifically, A7 is replaced with Eb7, and G7 is replaced with Db7, and the basic progression becomes Cmaj7-Eb7-Dm7-Db7. Instead of altering the tritone subs, I used a suspended 4th sound that helped to achieve a diatonic, step-wise melody in the top voice of the chord progression.
The usual scales can be found an Ex. 8, where are use a C major pentatonic over C6/9, Eb Mixolydian over Eb7sus4, D Dorian over Dm11, Db Mixolydian over Db7sus4, and once again, C Lydian over Cmaj7(#11). You might notice that the shapes created by the two Mixolydian modes look eerily similar to minor pentatonic shapes. That is by design, since a Bb minor pentatonic contains the notes of an Eb7sus4 chord. Similarly, you would use an Ab minor pentatonic for Db7sus4.
The next four turnarounds are not based on the I-VI-ii-V chord progression, but have been adapted from other songs or theoretical ideas. Ex. 9 is called the “Backdoor” turnaround, and uses a iv-bVII-I chord progression, played as Fm7-Bb7-Cmaj7. In order to keep the two-bar phrase intact, a full measure of C precedes the actual turnaround. I was able to compose a descending whole-step melodic line in the top voice by using Cmaj13 and Cadd9/E in the first bar, Fm6 and Ab/Bb in the second bar, and then resolving to G/C. The slash chords have a more open sound, and are being used as substitutes for the original changes. They have the same function, and they share notes with their full 7th chord counterparts.
Creating the line in Ex. 10 is no more complicated than the other examples since the function of the chords determines which mode or scale to use. The first measure employs the C Ionian mode over the two Cmaj chord sounds. F Dorian is used over Fm6 in bar two. Since Ab/Bb is a substitute for Bb7, I used Bb Mixolydian. In the last measure, C Ionian is used over the top of G/C.
The progression in Ex. 11 is the called the “Lady Bird” turnaround because it is lifted verbatim from the Tadd Dameron song of the same name. It is a I-bIII-bVI-bII chord progression usually played as Cmaj7-Eb7-Abmaj7-Db7. Depending on the recording or the book that you check out, there are slight variations in the last chord but Db7 seems to be the most used. Dressing up this progression, I started with a different G/C voicing, to Eb9(#11), to Eb/Ab (subbing for Abmaj7), to Db9(#11), resolving to C(add#11). In this example, the slash chords are functioning as major seventh chords.
As a result, my scale choices for the line in Ex. 12 are C Ionian over G/C, Eb Lydian Dominant over Eb9(#11), Ab Ionian over Eb/Ab, Db Lydian Dominant over Db9(#11), and C Lydian over C(add#11).
The progression in Ex. 13 is called an “equal interval” turnaround, where the interval between the chords is the same in each measure. Here, the interval is a descending major 3rd that creates a I-bVI-IV-bII sequence, played as Cmaj7-Abmaj7-Fmaj7-Dbmaj7, and will resolve a half-step down to Cmaj7 at the top of the form. Since the interval structure and chord type is the same in both measures, it’s easy to plane sets of voicings up or down the neck. I chose to plane up the neck by using G/C to Abmaj13, then C/F to Dbmaj13, resolving on Cmaj7/E.
The line in Ex. 14 was composed by using the notes of the triad for the slash chord and the Lydian mode for the maj13 chords. For G/C, the notes of the G triad (G-B-D) were used to get an angular line that moves to Ab Lydian over Abmaj13. In the next measure, C/F is represented by the notes of the C triad (C-E-G) along with the root note, F. Db Lydian was used over Dbmaj13, finally resolving to C Ionian over Cmaj7/E. Since this chord progression is not considered “functional” and all the chord sounds are essentially the same, you could use Lydian over each chord as a way to tie the sound of the line together. So, use C Lydian, Ab Lydian, F Lydian, Db Lydian, resolving back to C Lydian.
The last example is the “Radiohead” turnaround since it is based off the chord progression from their song “Creep.” This would be a I-III-IV-iv progression, and played Cmaj7-E7-Fmaj7-Fm7. Dressing this one up, I use a couple of voicings that had an hourglass shape, where close intervals were in the middle of the stack.
In Ex. 15 C6/9 moves to E7(#5), then to Fmaj13, to Fm6 and resolving to G/C. Another potential name for the Fmaj13 would be Fmaj7(add6) since the note D is within the first octave. This chord would function the same way, regardless of which name you used.
Soloing over this progression in Ex. 16, I used the C major pentatonic over C6/9, E whole tone over E7(#5), F Lydian over Fmaj13, and F Dorian over Fm6. Again, for G/C, the notes of the G triad were used with the note E, the 3rd of a Cmaj7 chord.
The main thing to remember about the I-VI-ii-V turnaround is that it is very adaptable. If you learn how to use extensions and alterations, chord substitutions, and quality changes, you can create some fairly unique chord progressions. It may seem like there are many different turnarounds, but they’re really just an adaptation of the basic I-VI-ii-V progression.
Regarding other types of turnarounds, see if you can steal a short chord progression from a pop tune and make it work. Or, experiment with other types of intervals that would move the chord changes further apart, or even closer together. Could you create a turnaround that uses all minor seventh chords? There are plenty of crazy ideas out there to work with, and if it sounds good to you, use it!
Many listeners and musicians can tell if a bass player is really a guitarist in disguise. Here’s how you can brush up on your bass chops.
Was bass your first instrument, or did you start out on guitar? Some of the world’s best bass players started off as guitar players, sometimes by chance. When Stuart Sutcliffe—originally a guitarist himself—left the Beatles in 1961, bass duties fell to rhythm guitarist Paul McCartney, who fully adopted the role and soon became one of the undeniable bass greats.
Since there are so many more guitarists than bassists—think of it as a supply and demand issue—odds are that if you’re a guitarist, you’ve at least dabbled in bass or have picked up the instrument to fill in or facilitate a home recording.
But there’s a difference between a guitarist who plays bass and one who becomes a bass player. Part of what’s different is how you approach the music, but part of it is attitude.
Many listeners and musicians can tell if a bass player is really a guitarist in disguise. They simply play differently than someone who spends most of their musical time embodying the low end. But if you’re really trying to put down some bass, you don’t want to sound like a bass tourist. Real bassists think differently about the rhythm, the groove, and the harmony happening in each moment.
And who knows … if you, as a guitarist, thoroughly adopt the bassist mindset, you might just find your true calling on the mightiest of instruments. Now, I’m not exactly recruiting, but if you have the interest, the aptitude, and—perhaps most of all—the necessity, here are some ways you can be less like a guitarist who plays bass, and more like a bona fide bass player.
Start by playing fewer notes. Yes, everybody can see that you’ve practiced your scales. But at least until you get locked in rhythmically, use your ears more than your fingers and get a sense of how your bass parts mesh with the other musical elements. You are the glue that holds everything together. Recognize that you’re at the intersection of rhythm and harmony, and you’ll realize foundation beats flash every time.“If Larry Graham, one of the baddest bassists there has ever been, could stick to the same note throughout Sly & the Family Stone’s ‘Everyday People,’ then you too can deliver a repetitive figure when it’s called for.”
Focus on that kick drum. Make sure you’re locked in with the drummer. That doesn’t mean you have to play a note with every kick, but there should be some synchronicity. You and the drummer should be working together to create the rhythmic drive. Laying down a solid bass line is no time for expressive rubato phrasing. Lock it up—and have fun with it.
Don’t sleep on the snare. What does it feel like to leave a perfect hole for the snare drum’s hits on two and four? What if you just leave space for half of them? Try locking the ends of your notes to the snare’s backbeat. This is just one of the ways to create a rhythmic feel together with the drummer, so you produce a pocket that everyone else can groove to.
Relish your newfound harmonic power. Move that major chord root down a third, and now you have a minor 7 chord. Play the fifth under a IV chord and you have a IV/V (“four over five,” which fancy folks sometimes call an 11 chord). The point is to realize that the bottom note defines the harmony. Sting put it like this: “It’s not a C chord until I play a C. You can change harmony very subtly but very effectively as a bass player. That’s one of the great privileges of our role and why I love playing bass. I enjoy the sound of it, I enjoy its harmonic power, and it’s a sort of subtle heroism.”
Embrace the ostinato. If the song calls for playing the same motif over and over, don’t think of it as boring. Think of it as hypnotic, tension-building, relentless, and an exercise in restraint. Countless James Brown songs bear this out, but my current favorite example is the bass line on the Pointer Sisters’ swampy cover of Allen Toussaint “Yes We Can Can,” which was played by Richard Greene of the Hoodoo Rhythm Devils, aka Dexter C. Plates. Think about it: If Larry Graham, one of the baddest bassists there has ever been, could stick to the same note throughout Sly & the Family Stone’s “Everyday People,” then you too can deliver a repetitive figure when it’s called for.
Be supportive. Though you may stretch out from time to time, your main job is to support the song and your fellow musicians. Consider how you can make your bandmates sound better using your phrasing, your dynamics, and note choices. For example, you could gradually raise the energy during guitar solos. Keep that supportive mindset when you’re offstage, too. Some guitarists have an attitude of competitiveness and even scrutiny when checking out other players, but bassists tend to offer mutual support and encouragement. Share those good vibes with enthusiasm.
And finally, give and take criticism with ease. This one’s for all musicians: Humility and a sense of helpfulness can go a long way. Ideally, everyone should be working toward the common goal of what’s good for the song. As the bass player, you might find yourself leading the way.Fuchs Audio introduces the ODH Hybrid amp, featuring a True High Voltage all-tube preamp and Ice Power module for high-powered tones in a compact size. With D-Style overdrive, Spin reverb, and versatile controls, the ODH offers exceptional tone shaping and flexibility at an affordable price point.
Fuchs Audio has introduced their latest amp the ODH © Hybrid. Assembled in USA.
Featuring an ODS-style all-tube preamp, operating at True High Voltage into a fan-cooled Ice power module, the ODH brings high-powered clean and overdrive tones to an extremely compact size and a truly affordable price point.
Like the Fuchs ODS amps, the ODH clean preamp features 3-position brite switch, amid-boost switch, an EQ switch, high, mid and low controls. The clean preamp drives theoverdrive section in D-Style fashion. The OD channel has an input gain and outputmaster with an overdrive tone control. This ensures perfect tuning of both the clean andoverdrive channels. A unique tube limiter circuit controls the Ice Power module input.Any signal clipping is (intentionally) non-linear so it responds just like a real tube amp.
The ODH includes a two-way footswitch for channels and gain boost. A 30-second mute timer ensures the tubes are warmed up before the power amp goes live. The ODH features our lush and warm Spin reverb. A subsonic filter eliminates out-of-band low frequencies which would normally waste amplifier power, which assures tons of clean headroom. The amp also features Accent and Depth controls, allowing contouring of the high and low response of the power amp section, to match speakers, cabinets andenvironments. The ODH features a front panel fully buffered series effects loop and aline out jack, allowing for home recording or feeding a slave amp. A three-position muteswitch mutes the amp, the line out or mute neither.
Built on the same solid steel chassis platform as the Fuchs FB series bass amps, the amps feature a steel chassis and aluminum front and rear panels, Alpha potentiometers, ceramic tube sockets, high-grade circuit boards and Neutrik jacks. The ICE power amp is 150 watts into 8 ohms and 300 watts into 4 ohms, and nearly 500 watts into 2.65 ohms (4 and8 ohms in parallel) and operates on universal AC voltage, so it’s fully globallycompatible. The chassis is fan-cooled to ensure hours of cool operation under any circumstances. The all-tube preamp uses dual-selected 12AX7 tubes and a 6AL5 limiter tube.
MAP: $ 1,299
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