This tiny stompbox recorder enables real-time riff capture and fast file sharing via Bluetooth.
TC Electronic’s Wiretap Riff Recorder might seem like an answer to a problem few have considered. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t a great idea. It enables the capture of ideas right in the middle of a jam—without ever breaking stride or sacrificing a magical mood or moment. And with Bluetooth and USB connectivity, and a clever file management app, it facilitates fast sharing of musical ideas.
If you guessed at the intent of the Wiretap, you might think it works something like a cross between your smartphone’s audio recorder and a looper. You wouldn’t be too far off. Like a looper, you just hit the bypass switch while you’re playing and it begins recording. You can play back the recording through your amp. But the real upside comes via the downloadable app, which enables file naming, organization, and fast sharing.
There’s no limit to file length, save for the eight-hour ceiling on the unit’s memory. You can also play back recorded sections and scan through them using the simple, tape-recorder-like 3-switch array. Wiretap may seem like a solution to a problem you thought you had sorted. But few methods for capturing ideas are as easy or immediate.
Ratings
Pros:
Easy to use. Records ideas while you play. CD-quality audio. Thoughtful app interface.
Cons:
None.
Street:
$99
TC Electronic Wiretap
tcelectronic.com
Taylor Guitars master luthier Andy Powers explains weather and humidity's affects on guitars so you can help your instruments live less stressful lives.
I’d venture a guess that any guitarist who has owned an acoustic guitar has also heard warnings about watching the humidity and temperature their guitar lives in. “Don’t let your guitar dry out or it will crack” and “don’t let your guitar get too cold” are wise words. But after some time, these admonitions tend to hit with the same wilting impact as your mother’s instructions to eat your vegetables, put on a sweater, or wear sunscreen. We know we should, but quietly wonder what the big deal is anyway.
Here’s a little secret when it comes to wooden guitars: Guitar makers don’t really care about how much water is in the wood. Well, we don’t care very much. Sure, there are some weight and density variables that change with how wet a piece of wood is, and can influence resonance. We may consider those factors, but that isn’t the real issue here. What we obsess about is the fact that wood will change size and shape based on how much water is in there at any given time. To understand what is going on in your guitar, it helps to understand some woodworking basics.
While trees are living and growing, they contain a lot of water. Roughly half of a tree’s weight (while alive) is water. After a tree is cut down, the water starts to evaporate. This process is known as “seasoning.” There are lots of methods to help this process along, but the important thing to know is that wood shrinks as it dries out. But wood doesn’t shrink evenly in every direction. If you imagine a board taken from a tree trunk as a pencil, you’ll find that the wood shrinks in width and thickness, but hardly shrinks at all from point to eraser as the water disappears. The unevenness between these water-loss movements is at the heart of the woodworker’s challenge.
As wood is dried, it will naturally seek out a balance point in a particular environment. There is always some water vapor in the air, and the absorbency of wood will both take water in and let it out in an effort to balance itself with the weather. As a result, the wood’s width and thickness will continue to expand and shrink after the initial seasoning, but not its length.
Armed with this understanding, we begin to see an acoustic guitar’s top and back as a potential problem. The boards that make these wide plates want to expand and shrink in width and thickness, or from edge to edge, but not from neck to tailpiece. The braces on the inside surfaces of the guitar can’t grow or shrink in length because they are sawn with their wood grain oriented like pencils to make them strong. When we glue these immovable braces at a right angle across a moving back or top width, we construct a potential conflict because the width of the top or back wants to change with the weather, but the fixed-length braces are trying to hold the inside faces of the plates at a fixed dimension. If these plates are exposed to weather different than the climate they were assembled in, the plates will distort as they try to resolve their tension, potentially cracking when dry.
This is why builders often design slightly convex surfaces in the back and face of a guitar: They are effectively building in some slack in case the wood shrinks. In addition, builders assemble guitars in median climates at 40- to 50-percent humidity and 70 degrees Fahrenheit to give the finished guitars the best chance of survival out in the world. Ideally, guitars would live in this climate for their entire lives.
With solidbody guitars, no such construction conflict exists. The boards making the body and neck are free to move uninhibited with the seasons and remain stress-free. Even when multiple pieces of wood are combined, their grain directions are parallel to each other, which allow them to move together as a single unit. As a result, your solidbody guitar won’t fall apart when the weather is dry the way your acoustic guitar can. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t try to keep your solidbody guitars in the same median environment. My stance is this: If it is easy to keep your electrics in a median environment, that’s good. If it’s hard to do (because you’re on tour, want to display your guitars, etc.), don’t worry about your solidbodies. They’ll be fine.
Acoustic guitars sound and function best when they are relaxed and stress-free, so watch the weather. And when it is cold outside, put on a sweater and give your dry guitar some humidity … just not too much.
A mid-’70s Marshall-style head at a budget-friendly price.
Have you noticed how today’s guitar amps tend to fall into two opposing price categories? In one corner: budget-conscious, mass-produced stuff, often made in Asia using modern circuit board construction. In the other corner: handmade boutique beauties, with price tags ranging from two to four grand.
Upgrading from category A to category B can flatten your wallet like a panini press. But the situation has created a growing “middle class” of amps that aim to deliver high-end performance at prices closer to $1,000. Do these amps cut corners? Duh—how could they not? But if the builder compromises intelligently (and if you know the relevant details in advance), it’s possible to have a boutique experience at a relatively reasonable price.
In the Marshall Mode
The Parson 1975HW is a fine example of this middle-tier trend. It’s a 50-watt head modeled after Marshall’s mid-1970s JMP series amps. It’s a straightforward dual-input design with bass, mid, treble, and presence controls plus master volume. It employs two EL34 power tubes, a trio of 12AX7s in the preamp section, and a solid-state rectifier. Impedance is switchable between four, eight, and 16 ohms. Removing four screws provides access to the tubes. Remove another four, and you can lift out the entire chassis.
Several 1975HW features are remarkable for the amp’s $999 price. The head cabinet is solid wood. The tube sockets are ceramic, not plastic. All pots are chassis-mounted. Most impressively, the components are handwired on turret board. The assembly work is excellent, with immaculate soldering and neatly bundled wires. The caps and resistors are solid, standard-issue stuff. Our review model is covered in attractive black tolex. (There’s also a limited-edition run of white tolex heads.)
Cut Corners?
As expected, Parson makes compromises to deliver so much amp so inexpensively. While the cabinet is reassuringly solid, some detail work is rough. For example, the vent hole is crudely cut and un-sanded. You can’t tell unless you open the cabinet, and it doesn’t compromise the cab’s solidity. Sounds like a smart compromise to me!
Other cost-cutting measures may be more of an issue. The EL34s are inexpensive Chinese Electron Tube models. While I didn’t try swapping them out, experience suggests that higher quality tubes would provide a meaningful sonic upgrade. (You can get good replacement sets for about $100.) A bigger issue is the use of cheapo Chinese transformers. These too could be upgraded, and high-quality replacements aren’t terribly pricy. But unless you’re a qualified amp hacker, it can be an expensive job. But let’s consider the amp’s stock sound, compromises and all.
Ratings
Pros:
Ultra-dynamic. Fat crunch tones. Lovely clean tones. Quality handwiring. Low price.
Cons:
Bargain-basement tubes and transformers.
Tones:
Ease of Use:
Build/Design:
Value:
Street:
$999
Parson 1975HW
parsonamplification.com
Classic Clean and Crunch
Shortcuts notwithstanding, this is a good-sounding head capable of quality vintage-flavored tones. For the demo clip, I connected to a 2x10/1x12 THD “Mickey Mouse” cabinet, miking the 12" speaker. The gain and master volume were cranked, with all tone controls at noon.
Since amps of this sort are famed for their dynamic response, I conducted my standard SOMA (“sit on my ass”) test. I plugged in a Les Paul with vintage-style, unpotted PAFs and sat 15 feet from the amp, recording the entire clip without budging from my chair. All I did was switch pickups and fiddle with the guitar’s volume. I didn’t even touch the guitar’s tone controls.
Result? Wow. The dynamic range is superb. It was easy to veer from beefy classic-rock crunch to sparkling, articulate clean tones. Players who rely on touch dynamics are likely to love the way you can balance on the brink of distortion, leaning one way or the other via pick/finger pressure. The 1975HW’s gain is restrained compared to modern hard rock/metal amps, but there’s enough headroom to incinerate your tone via distortion pedals.
The high-gain tones are thick and harmonically satisfying. If they lack anything, it’s the “grounded” quality that fine transformers can provide. (I lack the engineering smarts to explain the phenomenon in tech terms, but my hippie-dippy visualization is that the amp is mounted on long spikes buried deep in the earth. Note fundamentals are more stable and prominent, the better to balance the glistening highs.) The amp is a bit noisy, especially on high-gain settings when plugged into the hot input, though a tube upgrade might help remedy that. The clean tones are just lovely—a sort of deeper, darker variation on the familiar Fender sparkle.
The 1975HW is seriously loud, but not so loud that you must harm yourself to summon gratifying power-amp distortion. The head sounds its absolute best with the master volume wide open, yet tones maintain heft with the control dialed back. There’s ample oomph to cut through in a loud band and fill the room at medium-sized venues. And if you play big stages, modern sound reinforcement has you covered.
The Verdict
It’s great that builders like Parson offer a middle path between mass-produced amps and breathtakingly expensive boutique models. If your love of ’70s classic rock tones is greater than your budget, the 1975HW might be a fine choice, especially if you budget an extra $100 or so for replacement tubes. Yes, the low price necessitates compromises, notably in the transformer department. Still, the 1975HW provides good, solid sounds right out of the box.