Friedman IR-X
The Friedman IR-X dual-channel tube preamp is an entire Friedman rig in a compact pedalboard-friendly package. Powered by two high-voltage 12AX7 preamp tubes, each channel delivers the harmonic richness and touch response of Dave Friedman’s finest designs. DSP IR cabinet/power amp simulation sends a studio-quality mic’d-up tone to your DAW or Front-of-House.
IR-X isn't simulating a Friedman tube preamp. It is one. While many available preamp pedals utilize tubes to 'warm up' their digital or solid-state circuit, two glowing hot 12AX7 preamp tubes, running at the proper high voltage, are this pedal's beating heart. A genuine preamp in every way, IR-X delivers all the tone, response, gain characteristics, and harmonic complexity you expect from a Friedman design.
IR-X boasts two fully independent foot-switchable channels. Like the famed Friedman flagship amps, channel one takes your tone from bluesy, British-voiced cleans to a muscular Plexi-style roar. Engage channel two for the Friedman signature higher-gain voice and all the percussive punch, note clarity and singing sustain that comes with it.
Both channels feature their own independent and highly tweakable Boost circuits. This essentially gives you four channels, accessible with the tap of your toe.
All great tube amps need a great speaker cabinet, and whether sending your signal straight to the board or silently playing through the onboard headphone output, IR-X gives you a selection of Dave Friedman’s favorite IRs. Select the IR per channel using the 3-way mini toggle switches or load your own quickly and easily via IR-X’s editing software. You can even disengage the onboard IRs entirely to use IR-X’s tube preamp with another IR loader.
IR-X gives you astounding tonal control, but its included Friedman IR-X Editor software takes it to a new level. With it, you can tweak each channel’s power amp simulation via the thump and presence controls, load your favorite IRs, activate the Boost Lock feature, select loop ON/OFF and save it all to 128 MIDI presets.The IR-X software includes 12 free Friedman IRs to choose from.
IR-X is MIDI-capable. Whether pulling up presets with a pedalboard controller or switching channels with the laptop running your entire show, IR-X is ready for the job. It truly is the perfect marriage of modern control and classic tube tone.
The IR-X’s transparent effects loop allows you to easily integrate your favorite effects with everything from the most straightforward setups to the most complex digitally controlled rigs.
“What’s an attenuator?” That’s a question we get a lot at PG, and the answer is: a device that allows you to drive your tube amp hard without the volume that comes with turning up. As we all know, pushing tubes really makes an amp sing, and getting that tone at a reduced volume can be a feel-good experience for everybody.
An attenuator is connected between an amp and a speaker using two regular speaker cables—one from the amp to the attenuator and one from the attenuator to the speaker. Then you dial in your tone and volume, and you’re set.
“Pushing tubes really makes an amp sing, and getting that tone at a reduced volume can be a feel-good experience for everybody.”
There are four types of attenuators: passive, active, resistive, and reactive. Passive attenuators rely on weakening the power of the signal and improving the impedance match between the guitar and the amp. They don’t require any sort of external power supply, and they used to have a reputation for frying tubes and overheating amps, but modern tech has reportedly cured those concerns. Active attenuators do require external power. This is because they are designed not only to attenuate a signal but also to boost it. So, essentially, an active amp attenuator takes a portion of the amp’s signal and reduces it or increases it to give it more drive.
The main difference between resistive and reactive load attenuators is that a reactive attenuator lowers the amp’s output while maintaining its impedance curve. This means that, regardless of the amount of attenuation, your tone will maintain as much transparency as possible. Resistive attenuators don’t maintain that impedance curve, and as attenuation increases, the color of your tone changes, becoming more compressed and darker.
Now, let’s take a look at some of the attenuators I investigated, in different price ranges.
JHS Little Black Amp Box
This is a passive attenuator, meant for use only through an effects loop. It does an effective job of attenuation, but it sounds thin compared to the active (and more costly) attenuators I listened to. It changes the tone more, too, but at a $65 street price it can easily get you in the game.
Two Notes Torpedo Captor X
The Torpedo Captor X from Two Notes is a multi-function tool with lots of bells and whistles. It’s a compact and portable reactive load box, amp attenuator, miked-cab simulator, IR loader, and stereo expander. Although I didn’t get to experiment with all of its capabilities, this is a great sounding attenuator—very effective, and it maintains your tone while lowering the volume. But at $599 street, it’s an investment, as are all top-shelf attenuators.
Radial Headload Prodigy
The Prodigy is an excellent sounding box and does a good job attenuating the signal to your speaker. Like the Two Notes, it has more functions than attenuation, but you can choose 100 percent, 50 percent, or 25 percent attenuation. It includes a DI and nice high and low EQ controls—along with a built-in headphone amp. The Prodigy uses custom ceramic-coated resister coils to convert the excess power from your amp into heat. And like the Torpedo Captor X, it’s priced at $599 street.
Dr. Z Brake-Lite
This attenuator from amp-builder Dr. Z sounds great and does a good job of maintaining sound and tone while lowering the volume of your amp. It’s very simple to use, with a 5-position switch for different amounts of attenuation. This box accepts 4-, 8-, or 16-ohm loads. It has parallel speaker outputs, letting you run multiple cabinets. It’s only compatible with tube amps up to 45 watts, so it won’t work with your Marshall stack. But this device packs a lot of bang for $399 street.
Universal Audio OX Amp Top Box
This is the Cadillac of attenuators—a very high-quality device using premium analog components. In addition to a top-notch attenuation circuit, the OX Box features Universal Audio’s Dynamic Speaker modeling technology, giving you access to dozens of spot-on mic and guitar cabinet emulations. But like a Cadillac, it ain’t cheap, at $1,499 street. PS: If you’re a Buddy Miller fan, the OX is an important component of his tone.
What I discovered in my hunt is that if you’re looking to maintain your tone at lower volumes, you are probably better off spending more on an active attenuator. Passive attenuators tend to change your tone while bringing your volume down. So, if it’s within your budget, it’s worth paying more for the good stuff.
To begin, you’re going to need a reamp box such as the Radial JCR Studio Reamper ($229 street) and most likely a TRS-to-male XLR cable (like the Asterope Pro Studio Series TRS to XLRs, $55 street). I like passive re-amp boxes because they don’t require external power and are easy to move around. Some would argue that passive models loose signal strength, which is true, but how many boost/overdrive pedals do we guitarists have? At least one, right? Put one after the reamp box and before your amp. Boom. Problem solved, and you can drive your amp even harder. Otherwise, you’re going to shell out more dinero for active reamp boxes, which isn’t really necessary, and I like the inherent lo-fi nature of this process.
Reamping is a two-part endeavor. The first part involves using a DI box to record the guitar directly into your DAW. If you’re unsure how to do this, I recommend going online and reading my Dojo article mentioned above. It’s very easy and straightforward. The second part involves routing the DI-recorded guitar track out of your DAW and into your reamp pedal. Depending on your interface, you might need the TRS-to-male XLR cable previously mentioned.
Fig. 1
Look at Fig. 1 and do the following: Plug the XLR end of the cable from your audio interface’s out into the input of your reamp box. Now use your regular guitar cable and connect the output of your reamp box to the input of your amp. Place a microphone in front of your guitar amp, plug that into your interface, and record-enable that track. When you hit playback, the DI track will play back through your amp, and you will be recording the amp. You’re now re-amping! You can make new recordings each time you change amp settings or mic positions.
Fig. 2
For even more craziness, check out Fig. 2. You can add any (and all) pedals (even entire pedalboards) into the signal chain. Get creative. But wait, there’s more!
You can also route any track’s output in your DAW to your reamp box and really start going berserk. Try your lead vocal, the background vocals, keys, and drums (especially drum machines) and listen to how it sounds. Reamping also gives you the ability to manually tweak pedal knobs and make dynamic parts that are really changing as the track plays. Try playing with the times and feedback amount of your delays. Fun!
Finally, depending on how much you are driving your amp, you could keep it clean, move the mic further away from the speaker, and start capturing more of the sound of your room. I like to do this on drum machines. It puts them in a real space. Specifically, your space. No reverb plug-in can get that! As always, I invite you to come by my website to hear and see these concepts in action. Until next time, namaste.