
The condition of your frets will determine how well your guitar plays.
The condition of your frets will determine how well your guitar plays. Every time you press your strings against the frets, the friction between them subtly changes the shape of the frets, causing them to wear out. Over time, this metal-against-metal contact can lead to string rattle and intonation issues. The greatest fret damage is caused by capos—especially under the plain strings.
Fret wear is a normal by-product of playing your instrument. As a guitarist, it's important to know how to evaluate fret damage and understand what options you have to correct it. The big question is, can I refurbish my frets or is it time to replace them? Let's explore the subject starting with the fretwire itself.
What are frets made of?
Though fretwire is frequently called "nickel silver," it doesn't actually contain silver. Rather, it's typically composed of 18 percent nickel, 80 percent copper, and small amounts of such other materials as zinc, lead, and cadmium. Really good fret wire has more zinc and less copper. One of my favorite brands is Jescar, and their NS formula is 62 percent copper, 18 percent nickel, and 20 percent zinc. Because it's harder than traditional fretwire, it lasts longer.
Another option is stainless steel. Stainless steel is very difficult to work with, but it lasts dramatically longer than traditional fretwire. However, stainless steel frets come with a hefty price tag. Most luthiers will charge more than double to re-fret a guitar with stainless steel because it nearly destroys their tools and the job takes much longer to do. In the long run, it could be the perfect solution for your guitar since you may never have to replace the frets again!
How are frets sized?
Fig. 1. Fretwire is measured by the crown's width (A) and height (B), as well as the size of the barb (C) and depth of the tang (D).
Fretwire comes in a variety of sizes and shapes. Fig. 1 illustrates the four elements that determine a particular style of fretwire. They are the width and height of the crown, the size of the barb, and the depth of the tang.
The crown is the exposed part of the fret. When you fret a note, you're pressing the string to the very top of the crown. Like a row of hooks, barbs secure the fret to the fretboard. Barb width determines the width of the fret slot and the tang determines the depth of the fret slot—i.e., how far the fretwire penetrates into the fretboard.
The size and shape of each of these four elements are specifically designed for different playing preferences and types of guitars. The crown width can vary from ultra narrow (.053") to super jumbo (.118"). The fret height can be anywhere from a short .032" to a tall .060". The width of the barbs and depth of the tang also vary from .019" to .040".
All these dimensions have a specific purpose and are important considerations when choosing fretwire. For example, wider frets can produce a stronger tone, but as they wear, the guitar's intonation "drifts" farther than with narrow frets. But narrow wire has its drawbacks, too: Narrow frets won't cause your intonation to drift as much, but they wear down faster than wide frets.
Tall frets will last longer before they need to be replaced. However, I don't recommend them for someone who plays with a strong grip. If you grip the neck tightly while playing or use a capo, the strings will pull sharp as you play. On the other hand, shorter frets wear out faster (especially if you use a capo) and need to be replaced more often.
The size of the barbs and tang have a profound effect on a guitar neck, and if you decide to install new frets, it's very important to use the correct size. If the barbs and tang are too narrow or shallow for the slots, the frets won't seat securely in the fretboard. This causes them to lift out when the weather changes and yields uneven frets and a lot of buzzy or dead notes. When the barbs and tang are too wide, they can crack and chip the fretboard, or even cause the neck to back-bow. In the case of a back-bow, you have to re-fret the guitar.
To summarize: A neck must have the correctly sized frets to match the fretboard and player. Otherwise, you'll end up with a very expensive mess!
Can the dents in my frets be repaired?
Dents always create problems with frets. But does discovering dents mean you need to replace your frets or is re-crowning an option?
It can go either way, and the answer depends on the depth of the dents. When the dents are deep, your tech would have to remove too much material from all the frets to correctly repair the problem ones. When the height of the fret is below .038" and it has deep pits and dents, chances are a re-fret is in order.
Fig. 2. A dented and pitted fret causes intonation problems, creates string rattle, and impedes smooth string bends.
Look at Fig. 2 and notice the deep pits in these frets. These dents are too deep to repair, so the frets must be replaced.
Fig. 3. A flat fret also creates rattle and intonation problems.
Dents and pits are not the only reason to replace frets. Flat spots in the frets are another culprit. For a fret to function properly, it must have a domed crown. If the crown is flat, as in Fig. 3, it will cause string rattle and intonation issues. Much like dents and pits, if the fret has a flat crown and is too short, it will need to be replaced.
Fig. 4. Re-crowning a fret with a specialized tool.
If the frets are tall enough to repair, they are first leveled and then re-crowned. To level a fret, your tech grinds and sands the frets to an equal height. This leaves the frets with a flat crown. The next step is to re-crown the fret by removing material from its sides until the crown offers a narrow point of contact for the string Fig. 4. This is a very painstaking process and it takes years of practice to develop the proper skills—definitely a job for a pro.
What's involved with a re-fret?
Fig. 5. A complete re-fret gives a guitar a new lease on life.
In a re-fret, all the frets in the neck are replaced. The process is very precise and requires expensive tools and great skill. The basic steps include disassembling the guitar, removing all the old frets, planing the fretboard, radiusing the fretboard, cleaning out the fret slots, installing the new frets and then leveling and re-crowning them, cleaning the fretboard and polishing the frets, and finally reassembling the guitar Fig. 5.
And this is just a basic overview of the process. There are many, many more steps—enough to fill an entire book. Re-fretting is expensive and time consuming, but generally worth the cost.
Over the years, I've had clients who choose to replace an old bolt-on neck with a new one, rather than opt for a re-fret. This can be a great choice, but beware—almost every new neck needs a fret level and re-crowning. Most guitar parts factories don't take the time that a luthier would to ensure that the frets are level. So keep in mind that by the time you pay for a new neck and the additional fretwork, you could have re-fretted the original neck and had some leftover change!
What about a partial re-fret?
Sometimes simply replacing several frets, rather than all of them, gets the job done. This is usually preferable for a neck that only has wear on the first six or seven frets and has a level fretboard. If the fretboard is in good condition and the rest of the frets are tall enough, a partial re-fret is a great way to save money. Not all guitars can qualify for this operation. If the fretboard has a twist or wave in it, a total re-fret is required.
Capo is a four-letter word.
The capo is a fret's worst enemy. Of course, I love capos because I love to do fretwork! If no one used capos, my income from fretwork would drop at least 60 percent. The more you use a capo, the more damage it does to the frets. As the capo clamps down on the strings, it smashes the strings into the frets and much harder than if you were to play a chord. As a result, frets begin to flatten and develop pits and dents. This is great news for a guitar tech, but not so good for the player.
To avoid unnecessary "capo-inflicted" fret damage, I suggest you use a capo with a tension adjustment. Many capos simply press the strings down to the fretboard without offering a way to adjust the tension. If you use a capo with a tension adjustment, you can clamp the device with just enough force to prevent string rattle, yet reduce additional fret wear.
Another great benefit to using a capo with adjustable clamping tension: It will help avoid tuning issues versus a nonadjustable capo. There are several great capos on the market that will diminish fret damage and tuning problems, including Planet Waves Dual Action capo and all the various Shubb models. If your capo doesn't offer a tension adjustment, buy one that does. This will save you a ton of money in fretwork.
[Updated 8/10/21]
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Lutefish, the real-time music collaboration device and platform, is excited to announce a suite of new features designed to simplify setup, streamline collaboration, and offer more flexible subscription options for Lutefish Stream users. These latest updates, Audio Presets, Automatic Session Recall, Improved Scheduling with Contact Visibility, and a new Yearly Subscription Plan, are all about making it easier than ever for musicians to jam together, no matter where they’re based.
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Musicians can now save and reuse their exact audio settings, reducing setup time and ensuring every session sounds exactly as they want.
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“These tools are all about saving time and hassle,” said Patrick Finn, Business Manager at Lutefish. “Musicians want to make music, not spend time rebalancing levels every session. With presets and recall, we’re giving them time back and helping them sound their best, every time.”
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The veteran Florida-born metalcore outfit proves that you don’t need humbuckers to pull off high gain.
Last August, metalcore giants Poison the Well gave the world a gift: They announced they were working on their first studio album in 15 years. They unleashed the first taste, single “Trembling Level,” back in January, and set off on a spring North American tour during which they played their debut record, The Opposite of December… A Season of Separation, in full every night.
PG’s Perry Bean caught up with guitarists Ryan Primack and Vadim Taver, and bassist Noah Harmon, ahead of the band’s show at Nashville’s Brooklyn Bowl for this new Rig Rundown.
Brought to you by D’Addario.Not-So-Quiet As a Mouse
Primack started his playing career on Telecasters, then switched to Les Pauls, but when his prized LPs were stolen, he jumped back to Teles, and now owns nine of them.
His No. 1 is this white one (left). Seymour Duncan made him a JB Model pickup in a single-coil size for the bridge position, while the neck is a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound Staggered. He ripped out all the electronics, added a Gibson-style toggle switch, flipped the control plate orientation thanks to an obsession with Danny Gatton, and included just one steel knob to control tone. Primack also installed string trees with foam to control extra noise.
This one has Ernie Ball Papa Het’s Hardwired strings, .011–.050.
Here, Kitty, Kitty
Primack runs both a PRS Archon and a Bad Cat Lynx at the same time, covering both 6L6 and EL34 territories. The Lynx goes into a Friedman 4x12 cab that’s been rebadged in honor of its nickname, “Donkey,” while the Archon, which is like a “refined 5150,” runs through an Orange 4x12.
Ryan Primack’s Pedalboard
Primack’s board sports a Saturnworks True Bypass Multi Looper, plus two Saturnworks boost pedals. The rest includes a Boss TU-3w, DOD Bifet Boost 410, Caroline Electronics Hawaiian Pizza, Fortin ZUUL +, MXR Phase 100, JHS Series 3 Tremolo, Boss DM-2w, DOD Rubberneck, MXR Carbon Copy Deluxe, Walrus Slo, and SolidGoldFX Surf Rider III.
Taver’s Teles
Vadim Taver’s go-to is this cherryburst Fender Telecaster, which he scored in the early 2000s and has been upgraded to Seymour Duncan pickups on Primack’s recommendation. His white Balaguer T-style has been treated to the same upgrade. The Balaguer is tuned to drop C, and the Fender stays in D standard. Both have D’Addario strings, with a slightly heavier gauge on the Balaguer.
Dual-Channel Chugger
Taver loves his 2-channel Orange Rockerverb 100s, one of which lives in a case made right in Nashville.
Vadim Taver’s Pedalboard
Taver’s board includes an MXR Joshua, MXR Carbon Copy Deluxe, Empress Tremolo, Walrus ARP-87, Old Blood Noise Endeavors Reflector, MXR Phase 90, Boss CE-2w, and Sonic Research Turbo Tuner ST-200, all powered by a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus.
Big Duff
Harmon’s favorite these days is this Fender Duff McKagan Deluxe Precision Bass, which he’s outfitted with a Leo Quan Badass bridge. His backup is a Mexico-made Fender Classic Series ’70s Jazz Bass. This one also sports Primack-picked pickups.
Rental Rockers
Harmon rented this Orange AD200B MK III head, which runs through a 1x15 cab on top and a 4x10 on the bottom.
Noah Harmon’s Pedalboard
Harmon’s board carries a Boss TU-2, Boss ODB-3, MXR Dyna Comp, Darkglass Electronics Vintage Ultra, and a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus. His signal from the Vintage Ultra runs right to the front-of-house, and Harmon estimates that that signal accounts for about half of what people hear on any given night.
Kiesel Guitars has introduced their newest solid body electric guitar: the Kyber.
With its modern performance specs and competitive pricing, the Kyber is Kiesel's most forward-thinking design yet, engineered for comfort, quick playing, and precision with every note.
Introducing the Kiesel Kyber Guitar
- Engineered with a lightweight body to reduce fatigue during long performances without sacrificing tone. Six-string Kybers, configured with the standard woods and a fixed bridge, weigh in at 6 pounds or under on average
- Unique shape made for ergonomic comfort in any playing position and enhanced classical position
- The Kyber features Kiesel's most extreme arm contour and a uniquely shaped body that enhances classical position support while still excelling in standard position.
- The new minimalist yet aggressive headstock pairs perfectly with the body's sleek lines, giving the Kyber a balanced, modern silhouette.
- Hidden strap buttons mounted on rear for excellent balance while giving a clean, ultra-modern look to the front
- Lower horn cutaway design for maximum access to the upper frets
- Sculpted neck heel for seamless playing
- Available in 6 or 7 strings, fixed or tremolo in both standard and multiscale configurations Choose between fixed bridges, tremolos, or multiscale configurations for your perfect setup.
Pricing for the Kyber starts at $1599 and will vary depending on options and features. Learn more about Kiesel’s new Kyber model at kieselguitars.com
The Sunset is a fully analog, zero latency bass amplifier simulator. It features a ¼” input, XLR and ¼” outputs, gain and volume controls and extensive equalization. It’s intended to replace your bass amp both live and in the studio.
If you need a full sounding amp simulator with a lot of EQ, the Sunset is for you. It features a five band equalizer with Treble, Bass, Parametric Midrange (with frequency and level controls), Resonance (for ultra lows), and Presence (for ultra highs). All are carefully tuned for bass guitar. But don’t let that hold you back if you’re a keyboard player. Pianos and synthesizers sound great with the Sunset!
The Sunset includes Gain and master Volume controls which allow you to add compression and classic tube amp growl. It has both ¼” phone and balanced XLR outputs - which lets you use it as a high quality active direct box. Finally, the Sunset features zero latency all analog circuitry – important for the instrument most responsible for the band’s groove.
Introducing the Sunset Bass Amp Simulator
- Zero Latency bass amp simulator.
- Go direct into the PA or DAW.
- Five Band EQ:
- Treble and Bass controls.
- Parametric midrange with level and frequency controls.
- Presence control for extreme highs.
- Resonance control for extreme lows.
- Gain control to add compression and harmonics.
- Master Volume.
- XLR and 1/4" outputs.
- Full bypass.
- 9VDC, 200mA.
Artwork by Aaron Cheney
MAP price: $210 USD ($299 CAD).