Duane Denison of the Jesus Lizard, EGC Chessie in hands, coaxing some nasty tones from his Hiwatt.
The Jesus Lizard’s sixth album, Blue, served as the band’s final statement from the frontlines of noisy rock for the next 26 years. By the time of their dissolution in 1999, they’d earned a reputation for extreme performances chock full of hard-hitting, machine-like grooves delivered by bassist David Wm. Sims and, at their conclusion, drummer Mac McNeilly, at times aided and at other times punctured by the frontline of guitarist Duane Denison’s incisive, dissonant riffing, and presided over by the cantankerous howl of vocalist David Yow. In the years since, performative, thrilling bands such as Pissed Jeans, METZ, and Idles have built upon the Lizard’s musical foundation.
Denison has kept himself plenty busy over the last couple decades, forming the avant-rock supergroup Tomahawk—with vocalist Mike Patton, bassist Trevor Dunn (both from Mr. Bungle), and drummer John Stanier of Helmet—and alongside various other projects including Th’ Legendary Shack Shakers and Hank Williams III. The Jesus Lizard eventually reunited, but until now have only celebrated their catalog, never releasing new jams.
The Jesus Lizard, from left: bassist David Wm. Sims, singer David Yow, drummer Mac McNeilly, and guitarist Duane Denison.
Photo by Joshua Black Wilkins
Back in 2018, Denison, hanging in a hotel room with Yow, played a riff on his unplugged electric guitar that caught the singer’s ear. That song, called “West Side,” will remain unreleased for now, but Denison explains: “He said, ‘Wow, that’s really good. What is that?’ And I said, ‘It’s just some new thing. Why don’t we do an album?’” From those unassuming beginnings, the Jesus Lizard’s creative juices started flowing.
So, how does a band—especially one who so indelibly captured the ineffable energy of live rock performance—prepare to get a new record together 26 years after their last? Back in their earlier days, the members all lived together in a band house, collectively tending to the creative fire when inspiration struck. All these years later, they reside in different cities, so their process requires sending files back and forth and only meeting up for occasional demo sessions over the course of “three or four years.”
“When the time comes to get more in performance mode, I have a practice space. I go there by myself and crank it up. I turn that amp up and turn the metronome up and play loud.” —Duane Denison
the Jesus Lizard "Alexis Feels Sick"
Distance creates an obstacle to striking while the proverbial iron is hot, but Denison has a method to keep things energized: “Practice loud.” The guitarist professes the importance of practice, in general, and especially with a metronome. “We keep very detailed records of what the beats per minute of these songs are,” he explains. “To me, the way to do it is to run it to a Bluetooth speaker and crank it, and then crank your amp. I play a little at home, but when the time comes to get more in performance mode, I have a practice space. I go there by myself and crank it up. I turn that amp up and turn the metronome up and play loud.”
It’s a proven solution. On Rack—recorded at Patrick Carney’s Audio Eagle studio with producer Paul Allen—the band sound as vigorous as ever, proving they’ve not only remained in step with their younger selves, but they may have surpassed it with faders cranked. “Duane’s approach, both as a guitarist and writer, has an angular and menacing fingerprint that is his own unique style,” explains Allen. “The conviction in his playing that he is known for from his recordings in the ’80s and ’90s is still 100-percent intact and still driving full throttle today.”
“I try to be really, really precise,” he says. “I think we all do when it comes to the basic tracks, especially the rhythm parts. The band has always been this machine-like thing.” Together, they build a tension with Yow’s careening voice. “The vocals tend to be all over the place—in and out of tune, in and out of time,” he points out. “You’ve got this very free thing moving around in the foreground, and then you’ve got this very precise, detailed band playing behind it. That’s why it works.”
Before Rack, the Jesus Lizard hadn’t released a new record since 1998’s Blue.
Denison’s guitar also serves as the foreground foil to Yow’s unhinged raving, as on “Alexis Feels Sick,” where they form a demented harmony, or on the midnight creep of “What If,” where his vibrato-laden melodies bolster the singer’s unsettled, maniacal display. As precise as his riffs might be, his playing doesn’t stay strictly on the grid. On the slow, skulking “Armistice Day,” his percussive chording goes off the rails, giving way to a solo that slices that groove like a chef’s knife through warm butter as he reorganizes rock ’n’ roll histrionics into his own cut-up vocabulary.
“During recording sessions, his first solo takes are usually what we decide to keep,” explains Allen. “Listen to Duane’s guitar solos on Jack White’s ‘Morning, Noon, and Night,’ Tomahawk’s ‘Fatback,’ and ‘Grind’ off Rack. There’s a common ‘contained chaos’ thread among them that sounds like a harmonic Rubik’s cube that could only be solved by Duane.”
“Duane’s approach, both as a guitarist and writer, has an angular and menacing fingerprint that is his own unique style.” —Rack producer Paul Allen
To encapsulate just the right amount of intensity, “I don’t over practice everything,” the guitarist says. Instead, once he’s created a part, “I set it aside and don’t wear it out.” On Rack, it’s obvious not a single kilowatt of musical energy was lost in the rehearsal process.
Denison issues his noisy masterclass with assertive, overdriven tones supporting his dissonant voicings like barbed wire on top of an electric fence. The occasional application of slapback delay adds a threatening aura to his exacting riffage. His tones were just as carefully crafted as the parts he plays, and he relied mostly on his signature Electrical Guitar Company Chessie for the sessions, though a Fender Uptown Strat also appears, as well as a Taylor T5Z, which he chose for its “cleaner, hyper-articulated sound” on “Swan the Dog.” Though he’s been spotted at recent Jesus Lizard shows with a brand-new Powers Electric—he points out he played a demo model and says, “I just couldn’t let go of it,” so he ordered his own—that wasn’t until tracking was complete.
Duane Denison's Gear
Denison wields his Powers Electric at the Blue Room in Nashville last June.
Photo by Doug Coombe
Guitars
- Electrical Guitar Company Chessie
- Fender Uptown Strat
- Taylor T5Z
- Gibson ES-135
- Powers Electric
Amps
- Hiwatt Little J
- Hiwatt 2x12 cab with Fane F75 speakers
- Fender Super-Sonic combo
- Early ’60s Fender Bassman
- Marshall 1987X Plexi Reissue
- Victory Super Sheriff head
- Blackstar HT Stage 60—2 combos in stereo with Celestion Neo Creamback speakers and Mullard tubes
Effects
- Line 6 Helix
- Mantic Flex Pro
- TC Electronic G-Force
- Menatone Red Snapper
Strings and Picks
- Stringjoy Orbiters .0105 and .011 sets
- Dunlop celluloid white medium
- Sun Studios yellow picks
He ran through various amps—Marshalls, a Fender Bassman, two Fender Super-Sonic combos, and a Hiwatt Little J—at Audio Eagle. Live, if he’s not on backline gear, you’ll catch him mostly using 60-watt Blackstar HT Stage 60s loaded with Celestion Neo Creambacks. And while some boxes were stomped, he got most of his effects from a Line 6 Helix. “All of those sounds [in the Helix] are modeled on analog sounds, and you can tweak them endlessly,” he explains. “It’s just so practical and easy.”
The tools have only changed slightly since the band’s earlier days, when he favored Travis Beans and Hiwatts. Though he’s started to prefer higher gain sounds, Allen points out that “his guitar sound has always had teeth with a slightly bright sheen, and still does.”
“Honestly, I don’t think my tone has changed much over the past 30-something years,” Denison says. “I tend to favor a brighter, sharper sound with articulation. Someone sent me a video I had never seen of myself playing in the ’80s. I had a band called Cargo Cult in Austin, Texas. What struck me about it is it didn’t sound terribly different than what I sound like right now as far as the guitar sound and the approach. I don’t know what that tells you—I’m consistent?”
YouTube It
The Jesus Lizard take off at Nashville’s Blue Room this past June with “Hide & Seek” from Rack.
The finished BYOC Classic Delay kit (Photo 1).
Tools You’ll Need for This Project
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- #2 Phillips screwdriver
- Wire strippers
- 8 mm (5/16") nut driver/wrench
- 10 mm (25/64") nut driver/wrench
- 1/2" nut driver/wrench
- 14 mm (9/16") wrench
- Flush cutters
- Small needle-nosed pliers
- Third hands
These tools are available via a variety of suppliers, including StewMac, Allparts, and Amazon.
Step 1: Review the Instructions
The kit as it arrives (Photo 2).
Each BYOC kit comes with a detailed set of instructions in the form of a PDF that can easily be printed out. The Classic Delay’s instructions can be found at https://www.byocelectronics.com/classicdelayinstructions.pdf. They are 32 pages long, and I suggest following their steps as you read this article. Here, I will refer to specific page numbers that correspond with the steps. I’ve also taken photos to coincide with the steps. Within the instructions, we find a table of contents, pictures of the fully assembled pedal, a list of parts included, and step-by-step instructions from internal population and soldering to external assembly. With any kit, always read the instructions carefully before you start building.
Step 2: PCB set-up
Photo 3
A lot of pedal builders use PCB jigs that are specifically designed to hold several printed circuit boards so that they can be easily populated and soldered. These jigs are great tools. However, they’re not something a casual DIY enthusiast will often have. Essentially, all we really need to do is elevate the PCB off of the working surface so that the leads of the components can pass through the bottom side of the PCB. This is most helpful with components that can be soldered from the top side of the PCB. “Third hands” or “helping hands” (Photo 3) are a good tool for this job. So, what can we do to elevate the PCB if we don’t have access to third hands? Simply turn the enclosure upside down and place the PCB perpendicular (Photo 4). This will elevate the PCB enough to allow the component leads to easily pass through.
Photo 4
Step 3: Populating Resistors and Diodes (instructions page 9)
Photo 5
When populating PC boards, we typically like to work lowest to tallest in regards to the seating. Seating is how far above the PC board the component rests. Resistors and diodes sit pretty low to the PC board, so populating them first makes sense.
Resistors: Remove the resistor from the paper ribbon, bend the leads (Photo 5), and place them through the corresponding pads (Photo 6) as directed. (A pad, by the way, is the term for the designated surface area of a component’s electric contact point.) A good practice is to populate all resistors of the same value before moving on to the next value. Populate all 1k resistors, then all 10k resistors, and so on.
Photo 6
Reading resistor color bands can be confusing, so don’t forget the reference guide on page 7 of the instructions. Here, you will find a detailed breakdown of each value and its corresponding 5-band reading (i.e. 1k = brown/black/black/brown/brown). Once all the resistors are placed, we can go on to the diode.
Diode: Next, we need to place the diode. Just like resistors, remove the diode from the paper ribbon, bend the leads, and place them through the corresponding pads. Diodes are polarized and need to be oriented a certain way (Photo 7). Be sure to match the diode to the outline on the PCB, as shown on page 10 of the instructions.
Photo 7
Step 4: Solder Resistors and Diode
Photo 8
Fire up the soldering iron! Once the iron is up to temperature (650 to 750 degrees Fahrenheit, depending on how fast you work), it’s time to get to work. Resistors and diodes can easily be soldered from the top side. So no need to flip the PCB over. Place the solder tip to the pad and feed the end of the tip a bit of solder. What we’re looking for here is solder that covers the entire pad, encapsulates the lead, and has a nice shine to it. Think of it like a shiny Hershey's Kiss shape (Photo 8). Repeat this step for every part. If you’re new to soldering, you should consult our concise guide to soldering, online or in PG’s October 2015 issue.
Soldering tip: Shut the iron off between population steps. Use a small, tabletop fan to blow the solder fumes away during soldering steps. Quick tutorial videos on YouTube are also of benefit here, for builders new to soldering.
Step 5: Trim the Leads
Photo 9
Next, place the PCB upside down to expose the leads (Photo 9). Using flush cutters, trim the excess leads (Photo 10).
Photo 10
Step 6: Soldering IC Sockets (page 11)
Photo 11
Place the 8-pin and 16-pin IC sockets into the corresponding pads on the top side of the PCB. We need to solder the IC socket pins from the bottom side. This means flipping the PCB over without having the IC sockets fall out. For this, I like to use a small piece of foam (Photo 11).
Photo 12
I place the foam on top of the PCB (Photo 12), then flip the foam and PCB simultaneously so the foam is below the PCB and the bottom side of the PCB is facing up (Photo 13).
Photo 13
For this soldering step, we’ll want to solder ONLY 1 pad and then flip the board over to ensure that the IC sockets are sitting flush. If the IC sockets are not flush, go back to the bottom side and reflow that solder pad while pressing the PCB downward and keeping it parallel to the work surface. Solder the remaining pads (Photo 14).
Photo 14
Step 7: Soldering the Voltage Regulator (page 12)
Photo 15
Place the voltage regulator into the three corresponding pads, while keeping mindful of the orientation. The flat side needs to match the outline on the PCB. Now, we’re ready to solder. This can be done from either side. Flush-cut the excess lead and we’re done here (Photo 15).
Step 8: Soldering the Trim Pot (page 13)
Photo 16
Place the trim pot (Photo 16) into its corresponding pads. For the trim pot provided, I found it easiest to solder the two exposed legs from the top side (Photo 17) and then the remaining leg from the bottom side.
Photo 17
Step 9: Soldering Ceramic and Film Caps (page 14)
Photo 18
Place all ceramic (pill-shaped) and film (red) caps into their respective locations. Again, use page 7 of the instructions as a reference for identifying the correct capacitors (i.e. 100n film cap, which may say “104” or “.1” or “u1” on the body). We’ll need to solder the pads from the bottom side. So, once again, the piece-of-foam trick can be your friend here. Flush-cut the excess lead and we’re done (Photo 18).
Tip: An alternate method would be to bend the leads away from each other so they stay in place when the PCB is flipped over (Photo 19).
Photo 19
Step 10: Soldering Electrolytic Caps (page 15)
Photo 20
Let’s do the same thing here as we just did in Step 9. One thing to note is that electrolytic capacitors are polarized and need to be populated in the correct orientation. This is denoted on both the PCB and the component itself. On the PCB, the positive pad is denoted by the square pad. On the electrolytic capacitor, the positive lead is the longer leg. Additionally, the negative lead of the cap also corresponds to the white strip on the body (Photo 20).
So, let’s go ahead and populate the caps and solder them with either the foam trick or by bending the leads. Flush-cut the excess lead and we’re done (Photo 21).
Photo 21
Step 11: Battery Snap and Hook-Up Wire
Photo 22
This DIY kit offers a battery option for those that feel so inclined. (See page 17 of the instructions.) For this step, we’ll need to connect the battery snap to the PCB. Before soldering, we’ll want to first feed the two wires through the holes directly below the solder pads. These holes act as strain relief for the battery snap and have + and - signs next to them (Photo 22). Then, simply solder the red wire to the positive (+) pad and the black wire to the negative (-) pad (Photo 23).
Photo 23
Next, we need to cut and strip the included wire (page 18). We need four 2.5" pieces of wire, and one 1.5" piece (Photo 24).
Photo 24
Place the 2.5" wires into the top side of the solder pads for in, out, and the two courtesy grounds—all handily marked. Then, solder from the bottom side. Do the same for the 1.5" wire going to the ring pad (Photo 25).
Tip: If painting the enclosure is desired, this is the last chance you’ll have to do it. After this, there will be components mounted to the chassis.
Photo 25
Step 12: Install DC Jack (page 19)
Photo 26
Place the DC jack into the large hole on the back heel of the enclosure and tighten the nut using a 14 mm (9/16") wrench (Photo 26).
Step 13: Potentiometers and Status LED (pages 20 and 21)
Photo 27
The included instructions for this next part have you mate the PCB to the inside of the enclosure. This will help line up the pots and LED. However, afterwards it will make soldering the remaining wire more difficult. Here’s a trick we can do that gives us the benefits of using the enclosure to help with pot alignment without needing to take the PCB out afterwards to solder the remaining wires. What we’ll want to do is simply use the face of the enclosure to hold the pots and set the LED height. Additionally, we can use the flush cutters to help balance the PCB (Photo 27). Be sure to have the long lead of the LED mate with the square pad, then solder away!
Step 14: Final Hook-Up Wire
Photo 28
My steps continue to vary slightly from the instructions throughout the rest of the build, so you might want to do a side-by-side comparison. Let’s finish the wire for the DC jack next. Cut and strip three 1.5" pieces. These need to be placed into the three power pads at the top of the PCB marked -, +, + , as in Photo 28.
Photo 29
Next, cut and strip five more 1.5" pieces. Place these in the footswitch pads at the bottom of the PCB marked 1, 2, 5, 7, 8 as shown in Photo 29.
Photo 30
Last wire! Cut one 1.5" piece. Only for this one, strip half an inch off of one side (Photo 30). Place the short-stripped side into the footswitch pad labeled 4.
Step 15: Footswitch prep
Photo 31
For the footswitch, we need to jump lugs 3 and 6. To do this, we’ll use the remaining wire. Place the footswitch into the correct hole on the face of the enclosure. Then, cut a 1" piece of wire and strip half of it. Feed the exposed wire through lug 3 and into lug 6 and then solder both (Photo 31). Cut the excess wire.
Step 16: Insert the IC
Photo 32
Now, we’re ready to insert the integrated circuits into their respective sockets. These need to be placed in the correct way, and there are two ways to identify them. Pin 1 is the top left leg of the IC—which is the rectangular black object in Photo 32. These legs are marked with a small dot in the top left corner or the upside of the IC is marked with a debossed half circle.
Step 17: Mounting and Final Soldering
Photo 33
PCB: Now for the real fun! We’re ready to start inserting chassis-mounted components. Let’s start with the populated PCB. Place the PCB with the three pots lining up with the drilled holes, place the pot washers on the shafts, and then tighten the pot nuts using a 10 mm (25/64") nut driver/wrench, for the results in Photo 33.
Photo 34
Footswitch: Now that the PCB is securely tightened, let’s go ahead and do the same for the footswitch. Remove all hardware from the footswitch bushing except for one nut and the lock washer (Photo 34).
Photo 35
Feed the footswitch through the footswitch hole, making sure that the footswitch has the two poles that we soldered together facing the bottom left (Photo 35).
Photo 36
Next, place the plastic washer onto the bushing (optional), and tighten the hex nut with a 14 mm (9/16") wrench (Photo 36).
Photo 37
Lets go ahead and solder the footswitch wires to their respective footswitch poles (Photo 37). See the instructions’ page 26 for pole-numbering reference.
Tip: Solder from the top row down—i.e. 1, 4, 7, then 2, 5, 8.
Another tip: Remember that the wire for pole 4 also connects to pole 9.Step 18: DC Jack
Photo 38
Next, we’ll need to solder the three wires that go to the DC jack, as explained in page 22 of the instructions. Start with the middle wire, since it sits the lowest and will be easier to get at without the other two wires in the way (Photo 38).
Step 19: Audio Jacks
Photo 39
The last chassis-mounted components are the two audio jacks. Let’s do the stereo input jack first. Go to page 24 of the instructions to see how these jacks are oriented. The lock washer goes on the bushing first, then gets placed into the hole to the left of the DC jack. Then, place the washer onto the bushing and tighten the hex nut with a 1/2" nut driver/wrench.
Follow the same steps for the mono output jack. And then, it’s the final soldering step: Solder the wires to the appropriate lugs on the audio jacks (Photo 39), as on instructions page 28. Then, finally, place the knobs on, tighten them down, and we’re done!
To put the problem as simply as possible: The input impedance of a classic fuzz or booster design is very low, usually lower than 20kohms. Together with the pickup inductance (usually 2.5 H up to 8 H) it creates a low-pass filter, a happy accident with an ear-friendly result. When a fuzz pedal, for instance, receives a kind of neutral carrier signal, it results in good, harmonic-sounding overtone content. But this balance is very fragile, so if the fuzz receives an input signal containing a lot of high end (caused by a treble-bleed network, buffer, active guitar signal, etc.), that balance is disturbed. A lot of intermodulation distortion will be generated between the overtones of the input signal and the generated overtones of the distorted signal. Sum tones and difference tones will be present, which sound dissonant and not very pleasant. So, we can say that the natural filtering of the guitar signal at the input of the pedal is essential for the typical, well-known fuzz tone.
“A treble-bleed network can help you to cut through the mix when you play with reduced volume, so this is definitely a mod to consider.”
I’ve tried to simplify this complex subject wherever possible, hoping that it’s not too much theory. But I think you get the problem. So, what can be done to get rid of it? Don’t worry, you don’t need to remove your beloved treble-bleed network; we will simply make it switchable. This way, you can have both options in your guitar: treble-bleed network engaged and treble-bleed network completely shut off. This mod is not very complicated. All you need is a push-pull or push-push pot with a DPDT switch of your choice or a stand-alone DPDT switch. We will break down the mod into two possibilities:
Fig. 1
1. Replacing the volume pot. The easiest way to make the treble-bleed network switchable is by replacing your standard volume pot with a push-pull or push-push pot of your choice. The benefit of this method is that all connections are made on the new volume pot, so you will have no extra wires running through the circuit. A downside in a passive circuit can be that it’s hard to find a new pot with a good working taper as a volume pot. Usually, manufacturers only stock one version in 250k, 500k, and sometimes 1M, but only with one given taper.
Start to remove the treble-bleed network from your volume pot; we will reuse it with the new pot. Disconnect the wires from the pot and remove it. I prefer to solder all possible connections on a push-pull or push-push pot outside the guitar, which can make things much easier. Here is the wiring diagram for this operation (Fig. 1).
After installing the treble-bleed network to the switch and soldering the two wires from the switch to the pot, you can install the new pot and reconnect the wires. In the diagram, the treble-bleed network is engaged when the pot is pushed down and in its normal position, assuming that this is the standard operation, and you only want to shut down the treble-bleed network when using a fuzz or booster. If for any reason you want the treble-bleed network to be engaged when the pot is pulled up, this is easy to do. Solder the wire on A1 to C1 and the wire from A2 to C2 and you are done.
Fig. 2
2. Adding the treble-bleed network function to a tone pot or using an additional switch. If you want to add the mod to one of the tone pots rather than to the volume pot, the basic operation stays the same: Replace the pot with a push-pull or push-push pot of your choice. But now you can’t do all connections on this pot; the wires from A1 and A2 will have to go to the volume pot. This is also the way to go if you want to add an additional DPDT switch to the guitar, so you don’t need to replace a pot. Here is the wiring diagram for this option (Fig. 2), showing a DPDT switch. If you want to replace one of the tone pots, you naturally have to reconnect the wires and the tone cap from the pot to the new one.
All the rest stays the same. If you want the treble-bleed network to be engaged when the switch is up, simply solder A1 to C1 and A2 to C2.
This mod is also for all players who want to have both options but do not plan on using a fuzz or booster. Without a treble-bleed network, the tone gets noticeably warmer when rolling back the volume and a lot of players regard this as a kind of second tone you can have from your guitar. But in some cases, a treble-bleed network can help you to cut through the mix when you play with reduced volume, so this is definitely a mod to consider.
That’s it! Next month we will have a closer look into the PRS sweet switch and how to substitute it, so stay tuned! Until then ... keep on modding.
Tools Required
These tools and supplies are available online. StewMac, for example, sells soldering irons, a desoldering pump, and other tools for instrument work, while nut drivers and germanium diodes can be acquired via a number of sources, including Amazon.
• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Desoldering pump
• No. 2 Phillips-head screwdriver
• Small flathead screwdriver
• 8 mm (5/16") nut driver/wrench
• 10 mm (25/64") nut driver/wrench
• 11 mm (7/16") nut driver/wrench
• 14 mm(9/16") wrench
• Flush cutters
• Small needle-nose pliers
• Germanium diodes
Step 1: Remove back cover.
Using a No. 2 Phillips-head screwdriver, remove the four screws holding the back cover on.
Step 2: Remove external hardware.
The fastest way to swap diodes may be to do it from the component side, without even removing the circuit board from the enclosure. But for easier access and less difficulty, I’m going to remove the entire printed circuit board (PCB) from the enclosure. Since almost everything is mounted directly to the PCB, this should be easy.
Using a small flathead screwdriver, remove the knobs from the potentiometer shafts. Only loosen the knob set screws enough to slide the knobs off. No need to be searching the floor for tiny screws.
Next, using an 8 mm (5/16") nut driver or wrench, remove the nut from the toggle switch. Then, using a 10 mm (25/64”) nut driver or wrench, remove the three nuts and washers from the potentiometers.
Photo 1
For the last piece of external hardware located on the face—the footswitch—we’ll actually want to go inside and disconnect its plug from the board.
On the bottom left side of the PCB, there will be a white rectangular connector. We need to unplug the female end from the male end. This is where small needle-nose pliers can help. A small screwdriver or even fingers may do the trick, too. Finesse is key. We don’t want to break the wires from the female connector.
Photo 2
Once dislocated, we can go back to the face and remove the footswitch using a 14 mm (9/16") wrench.
Step 3: Remove external hardware on the back heel.
The last external hardware to remove is the audio jack bushings.
Photo 3
Removing these will allow the PCB to slide out of the enclosure. Using an 11mm (7/16") nut driver or wrench, remove the bushings and beveled washers from the audio jacks. Now, the circuit board is free to be removed from the enclosure.
Step 4: Remove the PCB from the enclosure.
The four controls and two audio jacks that interface with the enclosure may create some resistance when trying to remove the PCB. Typically, it’s from the collars of the audio jacks. Using a small screwdriver in one of the top corners and gently prying the PCB back usually does the trick.
Photo 4
Step 5: Locating the clipping LEDs.
Now that the PCB is removed from the enclosure, we need to locate the clipping LEDs from the top side. They are the two small red silos at the center of the pedal.
Photo 5
Then, we need to locate the pads (the exposed metal on the PCB) for them on the bottom side, and, once again, they are centrally located.
Photo 6
Step 6: Removing the clipping LEDs.
Now that we’ve located the LEDs, let’s go ahead and remove them. Quick note: The Plumes I worked on was a new unit consisting primarily of surface mount device (SMD) components. The LEDs are located between the pots and switch, so they can be difficult to access from the bottom side. The easiest way to remove the LEDs is to actually snip them from the top side, after noting how they are soldered in place.
Photo 7
We’re not planning on using them, and they’re cheap enough to purchase again, so breaking them is no worry. We just need to be sure not to damage any of the nearby components. The best approach may be to break the shell/bulb of the LEDs. Doing this will expose the two leads.
Photo 8
With these two leads exposed, we can easily remove each lead from the solder pads on the top side. Let’s apply heat to each pad and remove the leads with small needle-nose pliers. Jump to the alternate approach section in step seven if you experience solder removal difficulties. (Quick tips: Existing solder tends to flow better when a bit of fresh solder is applied to it. You’ll also want to heat the lead/pad and then grab the lead with the pliers. Grabbing the lead with the pliers first will take longer because the heat will transfer to the metal of the pliers. Don’t apply heat to a solder pad longer than needed. Doing this can compromise the pad.)
Once the leads are removed, we need to remove the remaining solder from the pads. This is where the desoldering pump (commonly referred to as a “solder sucker”) comes in. Apply a bit of fresh solder to the pads and remove it using the pump. YouTube is your friend here, for some quick desoldering pump lessons.
Step 7: Adding germanium diodes.
Check the polarity of the diode. For this mod, I chose 1n34a diodes, which are very common and available on Amazon. These diodes are polarized and have a positive and negative side. On the 1n34a, the negative lead is designated by the black band that wraps around the body of the diode (this is not the case for all germanium diodes). On PCBs, square pads denote positive. However, for the diode package that we’re adding, the square pad is negative.
Photo 9
Using Photo 10 for reference, gently bend one of the diode legs so that it’s parallel with the body of the diode. Place the bent legs into their correct pads—the negative side of the diode will go into the square pad and the positive into the circlular pad. Solder the pads from the bottom side of the PCB and snip the excess leg length with a pair of flush cutters. The excess leg length can also be removed with needle-nose pliers by bending the legs back and forth several times.
Photo 10
Alternate approach: If you’re experiencing trouble getting the remaining solder out of each pad, there’s a different approach to try. This approach may actually be helpful for this particular mod, because the pad spacing is small. If a pad connects to a ground plane (a layer of copper typically the size of the entire PCB that connects directly to the main ground pin on the DC jack) or several locations (other components in the schematic) it will require more heat because the applied heat wants to travel to all the connected areas. Typically, with clipping diodes, only one pad will experience this and give desoldering difficulties. In such a case, follow these steps:
1. Establish which pad has remaining solder. For this mod, the square pads are the positive pads, because they hosted LEDs. The diodes we’re adding want to have the negative side go into the square pad.
2. Cut the negative side of the germanium diode lead down to about 5 mm length. The negative side on the 1n34a is the lead closest to the black line indicator seen in Photo 9.
3. Heat the pad that has remaining solder in it and drop the short side lead into the solder.
4. Bend the other lead over like a horseshoe and mate it with the desoldered pad. (See Photo 10)
5. Solder the second side.
6. Repeat for the second diode, keeping in mind that the polarity of the diode needs to be opposite of the first diode that we soldered in as seen in Photo 11.
Photo 11
Step 8: Test.
Before putting everything back together, plugging the unit in as-is can be helpful. This way, if it isn’t working, we can go back and look at solder joints and any potential issues.
Photo 12
Step 9: Put everything back together.
Simply reverse the disassembly steps and enjoy!
A final note: If you love DIY projects or are interested in learning pedal design, my company, CopperSound, has a DIY section on its website, which also includes links to other DIY dealers. We offer integrated breadboards, component substitution boxes, adaptors for toggle switches, and even solder dispensers. For more information, please check out coppersoundpedals.com/DIY