The trio bandleader and Jason Mraz backer breaks down her journey through guitar academia, how to play with other musicians, and whether theory still matters.
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This time on Dipped In Tone, Rhett and Zach chat with Los Angeles-based trio troubadour Molly Miller, known for her work with her own trio and pop star Jason Mraz. Miller’s virtuosic playing, chameleon-like genre flexibility, and uncommonly deep knowledge of the guitar and music theory—courtesy of her nine years spent at USC attaining her doctorate—have made her a sought-after of jack of all trades in the guitar community.
As you might guess from the name of her band, Miller’s home turf is trio playing, and her latest record, The Ballad of Hotspur, is a tumbleweed Western rendition of the power and imagination of the sparse band configuration. Miller explains how she configures her guitar tones with her arrangements, why recording live off the floor works best for her threesome, and how to write instrumentals that don’t drag.
Unlike many musicians who like to live on a dangerously flexible schedule, Miller loves structure, usually rising early to fit a regimented schedule. But do things like routine and an academic’s knowledge of theory take some of the magic out of music? Miller has good insight for how to strike a balance between intuition and musical book-smarts. Later in the episode, stay tuned to learn how the algorithm might be changing how we learn guitar, and the eternal importance of jamming with strangers.
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Line 6 Catalyst, Black, 60-Watt, 1x12
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MOOER SD30i Practice Guitar Amp Portable Smart Amplifier
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Pyle Multi-Guitar Stand 7 Slot Display Rack
A reliable stand is a must, and the Pyle Guitar Stand at just $30.99 is both sturdy and foldable.
Positive Grid Spark MINI 10W Portable Smart Guitar Amp & Bluetooth Speaker
If you need a portable speaker, the Positive Grid Portable Bluetooth Speaker for $183 packs a punch despite its compact size, making it great for practice sessions and small gigs.
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D'addario Nickel Wound Electric Guitar Strings
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A technicolor swirl of distortion, drive, boost, and ferocious fuzz.
Summons a wealth of engaging, and often unique, boost, drive, distortion, and fuzz tones that deviate from common templates. Interactive controls.
Finding just-right tones, while rewarding, might demand patience from less assured and experienced drive-pedal users. Tone control could be more nuanced.
$199
Danelectro Nichols 1966
danelectro.com
The Danelectro Nichols 1966, in spite of its simplicity, feels and sounds like a stompbox people will use in about a million different ways. Its creator, Steve Ridinger, who built the first version as an industrious Angeleno teen in 1966, modestly calls the China-made Nichols 1966 a cross between a fuzz and a distortion. And, at many settings, it is most certainly that.
But it can also be fuzzier than you expect. And calling it a distortion sells short its fine overdrive and boost qualities, as well as its responsiveness to guitar volume and tone variations, and picking dynamics. It interacts with amps spanning the Fender- and English-sound templates as though it has a very individual relationship with each. It rarely sounds generic. And its tone range makes it a potential problem-solver in backline situations or studio sessions where you’re looking for something predictable or altogether weird—which is reassuring if, like me, looking at 10 different gain devices gives you a nervous sense of decision fatigue. The Nichols 1966 may not always be precisely the gain unit you’re looking for, but can also produce scads of tones you may not have known you needed.
Exponential Possibilities, Many Personalities
When the knob count on a pedal goes up, that doesn’t always make the device more effective or complex-sounding. But when controls work as interactively as they do on the Nichols 1966, four knobs and a mid-cut switch can make for a very broad palette, indeed. You don’t often see fuzz and drive controls together on a pedal. Usually, the two terms are interchangeable. Here though, the fuzz and drive knobs have a very different effect on the Nichols 1966 output. They also react very differently to single-coils, humbuckers, and American- and British-style amps.
At its maximum, the drive control’s distortion can sound and feel comparatively midrange-y, not too saturated, and sometimes brittle—requiring careful attention from the tone control. In general, advanced drive settings (with low fuzz) favor slightly attenuated and bassier tone-control positions and the stock EQ toggle setting. At their best, these combinations evoke small vintage amps cranked to their nastiest or larger amps with more sag. Advanced drive control settings with toppier tone settings and/or a mid-cut EQ setting are much less flattering, particularly with single-coils and/or high-mid-focused, British-voiced amps. Introduce humbuckers though—especially neck PAFs with less aggressive tone profiles—and you can coax muscular, hazy gain with tough tenor-saxophone tonalities, which are fatty and delectable. The drive control can also help shape great clean-boost sounds and treble booster-stye distortion. There are discoveries aplenty you can make with the right guitar-and-amp recipe.
The fuzz control is the hotter of the two, in terms of gain. At maximum levels, it’s scorching and buzzy, and, if you like really burning fuzz, it’s actually quite forgiving of trebly settings and mid-gain scoops, even with single-coils. A great technique for creating nasty, mid-’60s fuzz colors is to set the fuzz tone to maximum, scoop the mids, add a fair bit of treble, and add drive to taste.
“It’s plenty loud, and with the volume, fuzz, and drive all the way up, it’s positively brutish.”
Danelectro may allude to the Nichols 1966 being something less than a full-on fuzz, but I just spent the weekend listening to Davie Allan and the Arrows Cycle-Delic Sounds, and if this isn’t fuzz—as in getting-jumped-by-a-gang-of-leather-clad-mace-wielding-wasps kind of fuzz—then I’m Tony Bennett. There may be fuzzes that are silkier, smoother, or sound more like classic fuzz X or guitar-hero Z. But if you regard fuzz as an attitude more than a sonic commandment etched in granite, you’ll be tickled by how unique the Nichols 1966 sounds in that capacity. It’s plenty loud, and with the volume fuzz and drive all the way up, it’s positively brutish.
But it’s the playful use of the interrelationship between fuzz, drive, and tone together that showcase the Nichols 1966’s real strengths. Used actively, intentionally, and with an attentive ear, you can fashion high-gain distortion and fuzz sounds as well as varied, unique overdrive colors that you can fit to single-coils or humbuckers and that summon unique textures from each. The pedal responds effectively to guitar tone and volume attenuation without sacrificing much in the way of dynamic sensitivity. And, at less trebly and cutting settings, it still works as a vehicle for funky David Hidalgo/Tchad Blake Latin Playboys fuzz or Stacy Sutherland’s 13th Floor Elevators drive sounds that are distinctive in a mix in spite of their low-midrange emphasis.
Fuzzy Finish
Though generally sturdy, the Nichols 1966 isn’t a flawlessly executed pedal. The three circuit boards—one for the I/O jacks and DC 9-volt jack, another for the footswitch and LED, and a third for the drive and tone circuitry—are affixed to the enclosure independently of each other, which conceivably makes the pedal less susceptible to cataclysmic failure and more conducive to repair. On the other hand, some of the finishing work around some solders looks less than pretty and irregular. I’m not sure this affects pedal longevity. I’ve seen decades-old fuzzes with solders light-years uglier than these that work perfectly. At $199, you do like to see slightly tidier finishing work. Then again, I suspect most of what looks sloppy here is only superficial. The pots and switches all feel sturdy and smooth.
The Verdict
If you’re non-dogmatic about how much your fuzz, overdrive, or distortion sound like a certain template—and if you have the time and presence of mind to tinker with the Nichols 1966’s interactive controls to learn how they work with each other and different guitar and amp pairings—you’ll find the Nichols 1966 a pedal of power, great utility, copious surprises, nuance, and happy weirdness.
Danelectro Nichols 1966 "Fuzzy Drive" Pedal Demo | First Look
Keep your head down and put in the work if you want to succeed in the gear-building business.
The accelerated commodification of musical instruments during the late 20th century conjures up visions of massive factories churning out violins, pianos, and, of course, fretted instruments. Even the venerable builders of the so-called “golden age” were not exactly the boutique luthier shops of our imagination.
Most likely, the majority of the workers who toiled in those facilities were not necessarily end users of the product. But despite the preponderance of private-equity interests at the top of the music-biz food chain, there have always been musicians down in the trenches.
Today, if you’re employed in the business of creating musical gear, more than ever, you are likely to be a musician. A positive shift in consumer attitudes about small brands, often operated by musicians, has added to this as well. With many players thinking that building pedals, guitars, or amps is a dream job, I thought I’d share what I think it takes.
In many ways, building gear is very similar to being a musician. In the beginning, you have to learn any way you can. You might go to school to get an introduction to machining, electronics, or woodworking to get a leg up. There are instrument-building schools as well, but be advised that you may be only learning one way to do something—their way. An alternate route is to learn from a successful person or enterprise—and I don’t mean viewing videos. When I am asked about how to “get into the business,” my advice is to find a job working for a reputable, successful company that is doing what you like, and stay there for at least three years and learn everything you can. I didn’t do that, but sometimes wish I had—it would have saved me a lot of misery. I learned on the job but luckily had two secret weapons: massive curiosity and the willingness to admit when I didn’t know something.
It takes a bit of an ego to succeed at most anything, but I know firsthand that it can also hinder your progress. A little knowledge can be dangerous. There’s a delicate balance between being confident and being humble enough to shut up and take advantage of the information that’s right in front of you. Arrogance seeks to surround itself with people who will lick boots, but smart people aren’t afraid to work in the shadow of those who are more accomplished. There have been numerous studies that show that when college roommates are chosen at random, the roommate whose GPA is lower will often study harder and raise their own average by a significant amount. The old saying goes something like: You can’t learn anything if you’re the one doing the talking.
Similarly, if, as a musician, you play with people who are better, you have to step up as opposed to just coasting along. It’s humbling to be at the bottom, but humility can be the best way forward. I’ve taken a lot of entry-level jobs at machine shops and factories, and the education served me well. The best advice here is to show that you are eager to learn, not how much you know.
“When I am asked about how to 'get into the business,' my advice is to find a job working for a reputable, successful company that is doing what you like, and stay there for at least three years and learn everything you can.”
Perhaps you’ve heard the story of someone who started out sweeping the floor who eventually rose to the top. Maybe in today’s corporate world, where a degree might be considered more desirable than actual experience, this isn’t a good strategy, but I can tell you that a lot of menial jobs afford you a perspective that will come in handy later. Pay attention to everything.
At one job assembling precision equipment, the supervisor asked me to report to the loading dock to fill in for a couple weeks. Instead of grousing about being demoted to a lower rung, I decided to learn how that department worked. I focused on doing well, learning, and gathering information about shipping and receiving. The shipping guys were happy to pawn off responsibilities on the “new” guy. That knowledge helped immeasurably when I had my own business. The very same scenario presented itself in a succession of industrial and creative jobs. In essence, I was being paid to go to school. People will share their expertise if you show respect for it—and that costs you nothing.
Regardless of what you’re trying to learn, it’s a better education to be a wide-eyed small fish in a big pond than a big fish in your own little puddle. The same goes for any job. Start in a position where you aren’t expected to know everything. This is where pride may derail you, but remember, you’re there to learn, and they’ll be watching. The smart money is on doing a great job sweeping that floor without a trace of complaint, because the way you do anything is the way you’ll do everything.