Step 8
Now it’s time to wire up the hardware connectors. I didn’t want to risk a bad connection with the power jack, so I used a Marinco 5278BL flanged inlet, which lets you connect wires with screws rather than solder. (You can find this part, as well as the solderless connectors, at To begin, snip the male end from a regular IEC power cord. Inside you’ll see three wires with black, green, and white insulation. Strip about 1/2" of the insulation from each wire, then match the wires with the corresponding inlet connectors. Finally, tighten each screw and wrap any exposed wire with electrical tape.

Step 9
Before attaching the hardware, apply whatever finish you prefer. I used a dark polyurethane stain. Don’t be afraid to do a few coats to achieve the desired hue, just make sure you wipe the board thoroughly between each one. After the stain has dried, be sure to sand the top surface of your board so that whatever you use to attach the pedals—be it Velcro or a specialized product like Godlyke’s Power-grip—has a nice surface to bond to.

Step 10
Mount the power supply and install the wired inlet and solderless connectors with 1/2" wood screws. To facilitate a power supply upgrade or replacement in the future, I used a 2" strip of industrial-strength Velcro to attach the power supply to the underside of the top piece. Use fine-grit (at least 220) sandpaper to sand the surface nice and smooth so the Velcro adheres sufficiently.

That’s it! Once you’ve attached your pedals and wired up your power and signal cables, you’re ready to plug in and go—enjoy!

Special thanks to Mason Marangella from Vertex Effects, David Quinones from Blackbird Pedalboards, Luke Summers from Agape Custom Shop, and Michael Helwig from Helwig Pedalboards.