
Learn how to map out the fretboard and be able to play in any key using a few basic open-position chord shapes.
Beginner
Beginner
• Learn how to convert all open-position chords to moveable shapes.
• Identify the location of the root in each shape.
• Discover how to connect all five CAGED shapes to map out the entire neck in any key, starting on any one of the five shapes.
To get the most out of your guitar playing, you need to have a deep understanding of the fretboard. Wouldn't it be nice if the guitar was laid out in a logical fashion? Well, it is! Let me introduce you to the CAGED system and explain how it works as an organizing tool. Once you understand the CAGED system, I believe you'll be able to "crack the code" and see the fretboard's inherent logic.
Note: This system only works with standard tuning.
Instead of starting with a lengthy description of the CAGED system, I've found the best way to learn it is to immediately dive into the material. Think of this lesson as a hands-on tutorial. Step-by-step, I'll walk you through this time-tested approach while providing practical assignments—as if we were in a one-on-one lesson. We'll start with the basics and then work our way through more advanced applications. Grab your guitar and let's get to it!
The CAGED System
The CAGED system derives its name from five open-position chords: C, A, G, E, and D. To master the concepts in this lesson, you must know these five chords (Fig. 1).
CAGED Lesson Fig. 1
Next, you need to know where the root—a chord's musical foundation—is located in each of the five shapes. The root of a C chord, for example, is C. Major chords, which we'll focus on first, are built by stacking the root, third, and fifth notes of their respective major scales. The notes of the C major scale are C–D–E–F–G–A–B. Therefore, the root, 3, and 5 of a C chord are C–E–G.
In Fig. 2, you'll find the five CAGED chords with the location of the root, 3, and 5 labeled in each chord diagram. To help you get visually oriented within each shape, the roots are marked in red. You'll notice that each shape contains more than one root. C, A, and D each have a low and high root; G and E each have three roots—low, middle, and high.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 2
Assignment #1
Memorize the location of every root in each chord shape. For extra credit, memorize the locations of the 3 and 5.
Moving on Up
Now you know the shape of each chord in the basic CAGED system, as well as the location of their respective roots. The next step is to convert each open-position shape to a closed-position shape—meaning there won't be any open strings involved in playing the chord shape. To do this we must create barre chords out of each of the CAGED shapes.
Fig. 3 shows all the CAGED chords as barre chords. (Note: No barre is needed to play the "D" shape as a closed chord.) Some of these shapes may feel like old friends. The first barre chords most guitar players learn are the barre form of the "A" and "E" shapes.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 3
Two shapes that are less familiar and prone to spacing errors are the "G" and "D" shapes, and the common spacing error is to compress the fingering. Be sure to keep an empty fret between your first finger and the remaining fingers used to build the chord. Fig. 4 contrasts the incorrect, compressed fingerings with the correct ones for these two shapes.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 4
You may find a few of these shapes are difficult to grab due to the stretching involved. To minimize strain, don't wrap your thumb up and over the neck on the 6th-string side—keep it behind the neck instead. Also, I encourage you to only barre the necessary notes. For example, when playing the "G" shape, don't barre across all six strings; you only need to barre the three notes found on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th strings. Why create any extra work?
By converting each of the five CAGED shapes into barre or movable forms, you have exponentially increased your chord vocabulary. Each individual shape can become any major chord you need: Simply move the chord up or down the neck and place the shape's root on whatever note you want—it's that easy. When you look at Fig. 5, you'll see that moving the "C" shape up one fret creates a C# chord, and moving it up one more fret creates a D chord.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 5
By knowing that the root is located on the 5th and 2nd strings in the "C" shape, and knowing the names of the notes on those two strings, I was able to correctly identify the actual chord I produced by shifting the "C" shape to these other locations. To do this with all five shapes, you need to know the location of the root within each shape and the names of the notes on the fretboard. Fig. 6 names all the notes on the fretboard.
Assignment #2
Move each shape up and down in half-steps (in other words, one fret at a time), while focusing on keeping the shape together and not collapsing the "G" and "D" shapes. The goal is to correctly name the chord at any place along the neck.
What’s in a Name?
Up to this point, we've focused on acquiring the chord shapes and laying the foundation for realizing the full potential of the CAGED system. Think of each shape in the system as a puzzle piece: When all the pieces are connected, you will have mapped the entire fretboard. Again, the best way to see how this works is to experience it on your guitar. Play each of the chords listed in Fig. 7, paying attention to the fret markers and spacing of the shapes.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 7
What did you notice? If you played this example correctly, you should have heard that they were all C chords. Hopefully you realized that you used all five shapes and you ended with the same shape you started with (assuming you have a cutaway on your guitar that allows you to access the higher frets).
By the way, did you notice the order of the shapes used in this example? The name CAGED not only tells you what chord shapes make up the system, but also the order in which the shapes connect to one another to map out the fretboard. Fig. 8 places all five shapes as C chords in one fretboard diagram.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 8
What if you want to map out the chords in the key of A the same way you did for C? To do this, start with the open position A chord—an A chord with an "A" shape. Then think of the spelling of CAGED and find the letter following A, which is G. So, play an A chord with a "G" shape. Then it's an A chord with the "E" shape, and so on until we return to the "A" shape. So in this example, our shape sequence is AGEDC. This sequence is mapped out in Fig. 9.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 9
Making Connections
Earlier I suggested you think of the CAGED shapes as individual puzzle pieces that, when connected, map out the entire fretboard. By playing through the above examples, you've experienced this. When mapping out a chord, it is important to be visually aware of how two adjacent shapes connect to each other. A general rule to keep in mind: Between two adjacent shapes, there will always be at least one note that's common to both. In Fig. 10, I've diagrammed all pairs of adjacent shapes for the C chord. Notes that occur in both shapes are indicated with a diamond.
CAGED Lesson Fig. 10
Assignment #3
Play through the CAGED sequence starting on each of the CAGED chords in open position (like we did in Fig. 8 and Fig. 9, using the "C" and "A" shapes, only this time complete the series by working through the remaining three shapes—"G," "E," and "D"). Once you're comfortable with this, play the sequence in all keys. For example, start with a Bb chord using the "A" shape barred at the 1st fret, then play the CAGED sequence in the key of Bb. Pay attention to the common note(s) between two adjacent shapes—this will help minimize errors in shifting and connecting shapes.
Congratulations, you've mastered the fundamentals of the CAGED system and covered a lot of territory! The CAGED system provides a logical way of visualizing the neck using basic chord shapes you've most likely known for quite some time. But it doesn't stop there: The CAGED system is just as useful for scales and licks. In fact, I think of the CAGED system as five buckets where I can stash fretboard information. New chords, scales, licks, and melodies can all be related to one of the five shapes, and this allows you to integrate this information into your playing quickly and efficiently.
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“Sometimes, I’d like very much for my guitar to sound exactly like a supa cobra.”
Luthier Creston Lea tells us about his favorite dirt pedal—an Athens, Georgia-made stomp that lets his guitar be a hero.
Let’s face it: Nobody can tell what overdrive pedal you’re using. Whether you’re in a carpeted suburban basement accompanying the hired clown at your nephew’s fifth birthday party or standing on the spot-lit monitor at Wembley, not one person knows whether the pedal at your feet cost $17 or $700, has true bypass, or has an internal DIP switch. Nobody leaning against the barn-dance corncrib or staunching a nosebleed up in the stadium’s cheap seats is thinking, “Heavens yes!! THAT is the sound of a silicone diode!”
So, why buy another overdrive pedal? Or six more? Are they different? (I’m asking myself.) Of course they’re different. (I’m telling myself.) A Turbo Rat is not aKlon. ATube Screamer is not a DS-1. Or is it? I can’t keep track. Why? Because it’s fun to see what the talented manufacturers of the world have to offer. And because any reader who picks up a guitar magazine for any reason other than to swat a fly is curious about what’s new and what other players are using to good effect. You can blow your savings on a guitar—I’d be happy to build you one—or an amp (or vacation or college or discount merlot or a regrettable whole-back tattoo), or you can spend $100 to $300 to satisfy your curiosity. Will anybody in the audience notice? Unlikely. Will you feel better for five minutes or the rest of your life? Maybe. Seems worth rolling the dice from time to time. Nobody gets hurt. And sometimes you’ll find a pedal that pulls something good out of your playing simply by responding to the way you play … which makes you play in new ways, etc., etc., in an infinite loop of delight. Or at least infinite till the next pedal comes along. It feels good. In a troubled and imperfect world, is it so wrong to feel good?
I bought my first overdrive pedal, a well-usedMXR Distortion+, for $25 in 1991. Surely, I could have stopped there. But many others have come and gone in the years since. Have I bought a pedal, sold it, bought it again, sold it again? More than once.
I’ve mostly, finally outgrown the desire for new pedals, but I’m not immune to the occasional itch. Sometimes a trusted brand introduces something I just haveto hear for myself. That’s particularly true in the case of smaller-scale builders whose ears I’ve learned to trust. I’m going to like everythingChris Benson of Benson Amps or Brian Mena of Menatone ever makes, for example, so why not hear it all? Sometimes it’s alluring copywriting that makes me reach for my wallet. Sometimes they just look cool.
Maybe in my case, I just can’t resist a name like Supa Cobra. Sometimes, I’d like very much for my guitar to sound exactly like a supa cobra. When Greer Amps first introduced their Supa Cobra six years ago—described as delivering “chewy medium gain overdrive to awesome crunchy grind!”—I was immediately intrigued.
Oh, how I love the Supa Cobra—a woefully underappreciated pedal now only available from Greer by special request. I’m sure there are smart players who have discovered the joys of its lower-gain settings, but for me it’s perfect for punching through sonic mud and letting my guitar be heard. It lets my guitar be a hero.
I like it best with its 3-way clipping switch set to the middle position, which, according to Greer, bypasses the other modes’ clipping diodes and lets the op amp’s natural drive come through. I can’t say I know exactly what that means, but I know it’s loud and clear and compressed in just the right way to let sustained notes really sing out in a natural, power amp-y manner.
The Supa Cobra’s greatest feature may be the body control that dials in low-end presence without adding any murk. At higher body settings, the notes push on my chest in a way that I find thrilling. I like it around 60 percent with the gain knob turned nearly full up. Perhaps excessive, but life is short. When it’s time to sound big, it’s the biggest-sounding pedal I’ve found. Lots of overtones, but not at the expense of clarity. It’s quick to jump into harmonic feedback at the gain-y settings I like best, but in a beautifully controlled way.
As a matter of fact, I think people do notice what overdrive pedal I’m using. Not that they know it’s a Supa Cobra, but it makes my guitar leap out in a way that so many other pedals have not. To borrow a word from Greer’s Lightspeed Organic Overdrive (also fantastic), it sounds organic. Or, very much unlike a wasp in a tuna can. I think it sounds like music. Loud music.A dual-channel tube preamp and overdrive pedal inspired by the Top Boost channel of vintage VOX amps.
ROY is designed to deliver sweet, ringing cleans and the "shattered" upper-mid breakup tones without sounding harsh or brittle. It is built around a 12AX7 tube that operates internally at 260VDC, providing natural tube compression and a slightly "spongy" amp-like response.
ROY features two identical channels, each with separate gain and volume controls. This design allows you to switch from clean to overdrive with the press of a footswitch while maintaining control over the volume level. It's like having two separate preamps dialed in for clean and overdrive tones.
Much like the old amplifier, ROY includes a classic dual-band tone stack. This unique EQ features interactive Treble and Bass controls that inversely affect the Mids. Both channels share the EQ section.
Another notable feature of this circuit is the Tone Cut control: a master treble roll-off after the EQ. You can shape your tone using the EQ and then adjust the Tone Cut to reduce harshness in the top end while keeping your core sound.
ROY works well with other pedals and can serve as a clean tube platform at the end of your signal chain. It’s a simple and effective way to add a vintage British voice to any amp or direct rig setup.
ROY offers external channel switching and the option to turn the pedal on/off via a 3.5mm jack. The preamp comes with a wall-mount power supply and a country-specific plug.
Street price is 299 USD. It is available at select retailers and can also be purchased directly from the Tubesteader online store at www.tubesteader.com.
Reader: T. Moody
Hometown: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Guitar: The Green Snake
Reader T. Moody turned this Yamaha Pacifica body into a reptilian rocker.
With a few clicks on Reverb, a reptile-inspired shred machine was born.
With this guitar, I wanted to create a shadowbox-type vibe by adding something you could see inside. I have always loved the Yamaha Pacifica guitars because of the open pickup cavity and the light weight, so I purchased this body off Reverb (I think I am addicted to that website). I also wanted a color that was vivid and bold. The seller had already painted it neon yellow, so when I read in the description, “You can see this body from space,” I immediately clicked the Buy It Now button. I also purchased the neck and pickups off of Reverb.
I have always loved the reverse headstock, simply because nothing says 1987 (the best year in the history of the world) like a reverse headstock. The pickups are both Seymour Duncan—an SH-1N in the neck position and TB-4 in the bridge, both in a very cool lime green color. Right when these pickups got listed, the Buy It Now button once again lit up like the Fourth of July. I am a loyal disciple of Sperzel locking tuners and think Bob Sperzel was a pure genius, so I knew those were going on this project even before I started on it. I also knew that I wanted a Vega-Trem; those units are absolutely amazing.
When the body arrived, I thought it would be cool to do some kind of burst around the yellow so I went with a neon green. It turned out better than I imagined. Next up was the shaping and cutting of the pickguard. I had this crocodile-type, faux-leather material that I glued on the pickguard and then shaped to my liking. I wanted just a single volume control and no tone knob, because, like King Edward (Van Halen) once said, “Your volume is your tone.”
T. Moody
I then shaped and glued the faux-leather material in the cavity. The tuning knobs, volume knob, pickguard, screws, and selector switch were also painted in the lemon-lime paint scheme. I put everything together, installed the pickups, strung it up, set it up, plugged it in, and I was blown away. I think this is the best-playing and -sounding guitar I have ever tried.
The only thing missing was the center piece and strap. The latter was easy because DiMarzio makes their ClipLock in neon green. The center piece was more difficult because originally, I was thinking that some kind of gator-style decoration would be cool. In the end, I went with a green snake, because crocodiles ain’t too flexible—and they’re way too big to fit in a pickup cavity!
The Green Snake’s back is just as striking as the front.
This hollowbody has been with Jack since the '90s purring and howling onstage for hundreds of shows.