
Photo 1 shows the 4PDT switching matrix design for the "up" position, which will put the pickups half out-of-phase.
We've discussed full out-of-phase and half out-of-phase pickup switching. Here's a wiring for those who want it all in one switch.
Hello and welcome back to Mod Garage. After exploring the half out-of-phase pickup option several times in the past, there was a lot of interest, and I received a lot of emails from readers about it. A lot of you asked for a multi-phase switch to have all possible options at the ready and today we'll bring it all together. You asked for it, and the Mod Garage delivers!
Let's start with what we'll need to get out-of-phase or half out-of-phase sounds:
- You will need to engage at least two pickups to get such sounds. A single pickup played by itself will always sound the same, no matter if you play it in phase or out of phase (more about this later). The magic starts when you engage two (or more) pickups with one in phase and the other one out of phase or half out of phase.
- In general, you'll need one switch for each pickup you want to put out of phase. This can be only one switch, like on the middle pickup of a Stratocaster, to cover both in-between switching positions (bridge+middle and neck+middle), or three phasing switches, like on Brian May´s "Red Special," with one switch for each of the three pickups.
My design of a multi-phase switch that we'll cover today can be used to expand already existing out-of-phase switches in a guitar or to design a new wiring of your choice, integrating such a switch. With this switch, you'll be able to cover all three possible phasing options: in phase, out of phase, and half out of phase.
The magic starts when you engage two (or more) pickups with one in phase and the other one out of phase or half out of phase.
All you need for this mod is the switch, plus a capacitor and a resistor for the half out-of-phase option. So, let's start with the switch itself. For this mod you need a 4PDT on-on-on switch, which means a switch with three switching positions (up-middle-down) and a total of 12 lugs, arranged in four independent sections. Such switches are on the border of being exotic, but they're still available. Since every manufacturer uses a slightly different switching matrix for such switches, you'll need to get one with the same switching matrix I used, which is more or less the quasi-standard for it. It's possible to use 4PDT switches with a different switching matrix, but you'd have to adopt the wiring to it. I've provided three photos of the switching matrix and the switch design for each position. Photo 1 shows the "up" position, which will put the pickups half out-of-phase. Photo 2 shows the "middle" position, which will give you the full out-of-phase option. And Photo 3 shows the "down" position, which is just the normal in-phase operation.
Placing such physically large-sized switches on a pickguard or control plate can be a challenge, so you'll have to be creative. There is no way around such a switch when you want this mod because there are no existing push-pull or push-push pots with on-on-on switches. If you can find a 4P3T rotary switch, you can use it to substitute the switch by replacing one of the pots with it. There are also 4PDT slider switches available, but they're physically about the same size, and therefore, not a real alternative.
Photo 2 shows the 4PDT switching matrix design for the "middle" position, which will give you the full out-of-phase option.
Image courtesy of singlecoil.com
Here we go with the wiring of the switch, shown in Fig. 1. With the lever down you have the normal in-phase operation, with the lever up the pickup is half-out-of-phase, and in the middle position you have the full out-of-phase option.
Anyway, there you have it, all in one switch as shown in Fig. 1. On the left side of the switch, you see a capacitor in series with a resistor for the half out-of-phase option. A good average value is using a 0.01 uF capacitor with a 6.2k-ohm resistor in series as an additional serial attenuation of the system, preventing an impedance peak.
When looking at the switch, you'll notice that one switching stage is not populated at all. You might ask: Why don't we use a 3PDT switch for this if we only need three switching stages? This is because of the asymmetrical switching matrix of the 4PDT switches in the middle position (Photo 2) and there's no way around it. If the on-on-on switch had a completely symmetrical switching matrix, then three switching stages would be enough, but such switches aren't available today.
Photo 3 shows the 4PDT switching matrix design "down" position, which is just a normal in-phase option.
Image courtesy of singlecoil.com
In general, you add a controlled degree of reversed phase of the pickup when using the half out-of-phase option, which is great to mimic Stratocaster in-between "quack tones" on a Telecaster, like on the Jerry Donahue Tele models or with the Bill Lawrence Telecaster wiring.
Phase differences are measured in degrees. Totally in-phase sounds have either 0 or 360 degrees of difference, meaning none. Totally out-of-phase sounds have a 180-degree difference. So, half out of phase is either 90 or 270 degrees of difference. That's the reason why you can only achieve a fully out-of-phase effect when using two pickups together with one wired out-of-phase. (When both pickups are wired out of phase, they sound the same as both pickups in phase, because there are still 0 degrees of phase difference between them.) When a signal passes through a capacitor, the voltage leads the current by 90 degrees, so when a pickup's signal gets routed through a capacitor, it shifts the phase by 90 degrees—exactly half of 180 degrees—and therefore half out-of-phase ... in simple terms.
The cap connected to the switch is the phase-shifting cap mentioned above. A 0.01 uF cap is a great starting point, but you may try caps between 0.005 uF (5000 pF) and 0.022 uF. The smaller the cap, the sweeter the sound will be, but this really depends on your particular pickups. I recommend experimentation and fine-tuning to get as close as possible to a Strat's in-between tones.
As for the attenuation resistor, a 6.2k-ohm resistor works pretty well with the 0.01 uF cap and standard single-coil pickups. As a simple guideline, you can follow this rule by choosing and experimenting with this resistor: The higher the value, the more attenuation in the system, the smaller the impedance peak. A good starting point is the DCR of the pickup that's connected to the switch. For example, if your pickup measures a DCR of 6.8k ohms, you should start with a 6.8k-ohm resistor on the switch for a balanced sound and experiment from there. A good option is to use a small trim pot first so you can experiment until you find the value you like best. You can measure the trim pot and solder a fixed resistor with the measured value on the switch, or simply leave the trim pot where it is. A 10k or 15k trim pot is perfect for this.
That's it for this round. In honor of Fender's 75th Anniversary, next month we'll take a deeper look into Fender's history, busting some myths, misunderstandings, and urban legends, while celebrating the man behind the company that started it all: Mr. Clarence Leonidas Fender, or Leo Fender, as the world calls him.
Until then ... keep on modding!
- Mod Garage: “Jimmy Page” Les Paul Wiring - Premier Guitar ›
- Mod Garage: Adding an Out-of-Phase Switch to a Telecaster ... ›
- Phasing Out: How to get out-of-phase sounds from a Stratocaster ... ›
John Doe and Billy Zoom keep things spare and powerful, with two basses and a single guitar–and 47 years of shared musical history–between them, as founding members of this historic American band.
There are plenty of mighty American rock bands, but relatively few have had as profound an impact on the international musical landscape as X. Along with other select members of punk’s original Class of 1977, including Patti Smith, Richard Hell, and Talking Heads, the Los Angeles-based outfit proved that rock ’n’ roll could be stripped to its bones and still be as literate and allusive as the best work of the songwriters who emerged during the previous decade and were swept up in the corporate-rock tidal wave that punk rebelled against. X’s first three albums–Los Angles, Wild Gift, and Under the Big Black Sun-were a beautiful and provocative foundation, and rocked like Mt. Rushmore.
Last year, X released a new album, Smoke & Fiction, and, after declaring it would be their last, embarked on what was billed as a goodbye tour, seemingly putting a bow on 47 years of their creative journey. But when PG caught up with X at Memphis’s Minglewood Hall in late fall, vocalist and bassist John Doe let us in on a secret: They are going to continue playing select dates and the occasional mini-tour, and will be part of the Sick New World festival in Las Vegas in April 12.
Not-so-secret is that they still rock like Mt. Rushmore, and that the work of all four of the founders–bassist, singer, and songwriter Doe, vocalist and songwriter Exene Cervenka, guitarist Billy Zoom, and drummer D.J. Bonebreak–remains inspired.
Onstage at Minglewood Hall, Doe talked a bit about his lead role in the film-festival-award-winning 2022 remake of the film noir classic D.O.A. But most important, he and Zoom let us in on their minimalist sonic secrets.Brought to you by D’Addario.
Gretsch A Sketch
Since X’s earliest days, Billy Zoom has played Gretsches. In the beginning, it was a Silver Jet, but in recent years he’s preferred the hollowbody G6122T-59 Vintage Select Chet Atkins Country Gentleman. This example roars a little more thanks to the Kent Armstrong P-90 in the neck and a Seymour Duncan DeArmond-style pickup in the bridge. Zoom, who is an electronics wiz, also did some custom wiring and has locking tuners on the guitar.
More DeArmond
Zoom’s sole effect is this vintage DeArmond 602 volume pedal. It helps him reign in the feedback that occasionally comes soaring in, since he stations himself right in front of his amp during shows.
It's a Zoom!
Zoom’s experience with electronics began as a kid, when he began building items from the famed Heath Kit series and made his own CB radio. And since he’s a guitarist, building amps seemed inevitable. This 1x12 was crafted at the request of G&L Guitars, but never came to market. It is switchable between 10 and 30 watts and sports a single Celestion Vintage 30.
Tube Time!
The tube array includes two EL84, 12AX7s in the preamp stage, and a single 12AT7. The rightmost input is for a reverb/tremolo footswitch.
Set the Controls for the Heart of the Big Black Sun
Besides 3-band EQ, reverb, and tremolo, Zoom’s custom wiring allows for a mid-boost that pumps up to 14 dB. Not content with 11, it starts there and goes to 20.
Baby Blue
This amp is also a Zoom creation, with just a tone and volume control (the latter with a low boost). It also relies on 12AX7s and EL84s.
Big Bottom
Here is John Doe’s rig in full: Ampeg and Fender basses, with his simple stack between them. The red head atop his cabs is a rare bird: an Amber Light Walter Woods from the 1970s. These amps are legendary among bass players for their full tone, and especially good for upright bass and eccentric instruments like Doe’s scroll-head Ampeg. “I think they were the first small, solid-state bass amps ever,” Doe offers. They have channels designated for electric and upright basses (Doe says he uses the upright channel, for a mid-dier tone), plus volume, treble, bass, and master volume controls. One of the switches puts the signal out of phase, but he’s not sure what the others do. Then, there’s a Genzler cab with two 12" speakers and four horns, and an Ampeg 4x10.
Scared Scroll
Here’s the headstock of that Ampeg scroll bass, an artifact of the ’60s with a microphone pickup. Doe seems to have a bit of a love/hate relationship with this instrument, which has open tuners and through-body f-style holes on its right and left sides. “The interesting thing,” he says, “is that you cannot have any treble on the pickup. If you do, it sounds like shit. With a pick, you can sort of get away with it.” So he mostly rolls off all the treble to shake the earth.
Jazz Bass II
This is the second Fender Jazz Bass that Doe has owned. He bought his first from a friend in Baltimore for $150, and used it to write and record most of X’s early albums. That one no longer leaves home. But this touring instrument came from the Guitar Castle in Salem, Oregon, and was painted to recreate the vintage vibe of Doe’s historic bass.
A dual-channel tube preamp and overdrive pedal inspired by the Top Boost channel of vintage VOX amps.
ROY is designed to deliver sweet, ringing cleans and the "shattered" upper-mid breakup tones without sounding harsh or brittle. It is built around a 12AX7 tube that operates internally at 260VDC, providing natural tube compression and a slightly "spongy" amp-like response.
ROY features two identical channels, each with separate gain and volume controls. This design allows you to switch from clean to overdrive with the press of a footswitch while maintaining control over the volume level. It's like having two separate preamps dialed in for clean and overdrive tones.
Much like the old amplifier, ROY includes a classic dual-band tone stack. This unique EQ features interactive Treble and Bass controls that inversely affect the Mids. Both channels share the EQ section.
Another notable feature of this circuit is the Tone Cut control: a master treble roll-off after the EQ. You can shape your tone using the EQ and then adjust the Tone Cut to reduce harshness in the top end while keeping your core sound.
ROY works well with other pedals and can serve as a clean tube platform at the end of your signal chain. It’s a simple and effective way to add a vintage British voice to any amp or direct rig setup.
ROY offers external channel switching and the option to turn the pedal on/off via a 3.5mm jack. The preamp comes with a wall-mount power supply and a country-specific plug.
Street price is 299 USD. It is available at select retailers and can also be purchased directly from the Tubesteader online store at www.tubesteader.com.
The compact offspring of the Roland SDE-3000 rack unit is simple, flexible, and capable of a few cool new tricks of its own.
Tonalities bridge analog and digital characteristics. Cool polyrhythmic textures and easy-to-access, more-common echo subdivisions. Useful panning and stereo-routing options.
Interactivity among controls can yield some chaos and difficult-to-duplicate sounds.
$219
Boss SDE-3 Dual Digital Delay
boss.info
Though my affection for analog echo dwarfs my sentiments for digital delay, I don’t get doctrinaire about it. If the sound works, I’ll use it. Boss digital delays have been instructive in this way to me before: I used a Boss DD-5 in a A/B amp rig with an Echoplex for a long time, blending the slur and stretch of the reverse echo with the hazy, wobbly tape delay. It was delicious, deep, and complex. And the DD-5 still lives here just in case I get the urge to revisit that place.
Tinkering with theSDE-3 Dual Digital Delay suggested a similar, possibly enduring appeal. As an evolution of the Roland SDE-3000rack unit from the 1980s, it’s a texture machine, bubbling with subtle-to-odd triangle LFO modulations and enhanced dual-delay patterns that make tone mazes from dopey-simple melodies. And with the capacity to use it with two amps in stereo or in panning capacity, it can be much more dimensional. But while the SDE-3 will become indispensable to some for its most complex echo textures, its basic voice possesses warmth that lends personality in pedestrian applications too.
Tapping Into the Source
Some interest in the original SDE-3000 is in its association with Eddie Van Halen, who ran two of them in a wet-dry-wet configuration, using different delay rates and modulation to thicken and lend dimension to solos. But while EVH’s de facto endorsement prompted reissues of the effect as far back as the ’90s, part of the appeal was down to the 3000’s intrinsic elegance and simplicity.
In fact, the original rack unit’s features don’t differ much from what you would find on modern, inexpensive stompbox echoes. But the SDE-3000’s simplicity and reliable predictability made it conducive to fast workflow in the studio. Critically, it also avoided the lo-fi and sterility shortcomings that plagued some lesser rivals—an attribute designer Yoshi Ikegami chalks up to analog components elsewhere in the circuit and a fortuitous clock imprecision that lends organic essence to the repeats.
Evolved Echo Animal
Though the SDE-3 traces a line back to the SDE-3000 in sound and function, it is a very evolved riff on a theme. I don’t have an original SDE-3000 on hand for comparison, but it’s easy to hear how the SDE-3 bridges a gap between analog haze and more clinical, surgical digital sounds in the way that made the original famous. Thanks to the hi-cut control, the SDE-3’s voice can be shaped to enhance the angular aspect of the echoes, or blunt sharp edges. There’s also a lot of leeway to toy with varied EQ settings without sacrificing the ample definition in the repeats. That also means you can take advantage of the polyrhythmic effects that are arguably its greatest asset.
“There’s a lot of leeway to toy with varied EQ settings without sacrificing the ample definition in the repeats.”
The SDE-3’s offset control, which generates these polyrhythmic echoes, is its heart. The most practical and familiar echos, like quarter, eighth, and dotted-eighth patterns, are easy to access in the second half of the offset knobs range. In the first half of the knob’s throw, however, the offset delays often clang about at less-regular intervals, producing complex polyrhythms that are also cool multipliers of the modulation and EQ effects. For example, when emphasizing top end in repeats, using aggressive effects mixes and pitch-wobble modulation generates eerie ghost notes that swim through and around patterns, adding rhythmic interest and texture without derailing the drive behind a groove. Even at modest settings, these are great alternatives to more staid, regular subdivision patterns. Many of the coolest sounds tend toward the foggy reverb spectrum. Removing high end, piling on feedback, and adding the woozy, drunken drift from modulation creates fascinating backdrops for slow, sparse chord melodies. Faster modulations throb and swirl like old BBC Radiophonic Workshop sci-fi sound designs.
By themselves, the modulations have their own broad appeal. Chorus tones are rarely the archetypal Roland Jazz Chorus or CE type—tending to be a bit darker and mistier. But they do a nice job suggesting that texture without lapsing into caricature. There are also really cool rotary-speaker-like textures and vibrato sounds that offer alternatives to go-to industry standards.
The Verdict
The SDE-3’s many available sounds and textures would be appealing at $219—even without the stereo and panning connectivity options, a useful hold function, and expression pedal control that opens up additional options. The panning capabilities, in particular, sparked all kinds of thoughts about studio applications. Mastering the SDE-3 takes just a little study—certain polyrhythms can be dramatically reshaped by the interactivity of other controls and you need to take care to achieve identical results twice. But this is a pedal that, by virtue of its relative simplicity and richness and breadth of sounds, exceeds the utility of some similarly priced rivals, all while opening up possibilities well outside the simple echo realm
Reader: T. Moody
Hometown: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Guitar: The Green Snake
Reader T. Moody turned this Yamaha Pacifica body into a reptilian rocker.
With a few clicks on Reverb, a reptile-inspired shred machine was born.
With this guitar, I wanted to create a shadowbox-type vibe by adding something you could see inside. I have always loved the Yamaha Pacifica guitars because of the open pickup cavity and the light weight, so I purchased this body off Reverb (I think I am addicted to that website). I also wanted a color that was vivid and bold. The seller had already painted it neon yellow, so when I read in the description, “You can see this body from space,” I immediately clicked the Buy It Now button. I also purchased the neck and pickups off of Reverb.
I have always loved the reverse headstock, simply because nothing says 1987 (the best year in the history of the world) like a reverse headstock. The pickups are both Seymour Duncan—an SH-1N in the neck position and TB-4 in the bridge, both in a very cool lime green color. Right when these pickups got listed, the Buy It Now button once again lit up like the Fourth of July. I am a loyal disciple of Sperzel locking tuners and think Bob Sperzel was a pure genius, so I knew those were going on this project even before I started on it. I also knew that I wanted a Vega-Trem; those units are absolutely amazing.
When the body arrived, I thought it would be cool to do some kind of burst around the yellow so I went with a neon green. It turned out better than I imagined. Next up was the shaping and cutting of the pickguard. I had this crocodile-type, faux-leather material that I glued on the pickguard and then shaped to my liking. I wanted just a single volume control and no tone knob, because, like King Edward (Van Halen) once said, “Your volume is your tone.”
T. Moody
I then shaped and glued the faux-leather material in the cavity. The tuning knobs, volume knob, pickguard, screws, and selector switch were also painted in the lemon-lime paint scheme. I put everything together, installed the pickups, strung it up, set it up, plugged it in, and I was blown away. I think this is the best-playing and -sounding guitar I have ever tried.
The only thing missing was the center piece and strap. The latter was easy because DiMarzio makes their ClipLock in neon green. The center piece was more difficult because originally, I was thinking that some kind of gator-style decoration would be cool. In the end, I went with a green snake, because crocodiles ain’t too flexible—and they’re way too big to fit in a pickup cavity!
The Green Snake’s back is just as striking as the front.