
Have you ever wanted to replace the pickups in one of your electrics, but were hesitant to tackle the job? No worries! John LeVan—an ace guitar repairman in Nashville—takes you step-by-step through the process.
One of my favorite projects is pickup installation. There’s something very satisfying about taking a pile of wires, coils, and potentiometers and turning them into an awesome tone machine. Recently, I had the opportunity to install a set of vintage humbuckers designed by the late, great Seth Lover. His pickups are considered to be the Holy Grail of tone. Out of thousands of pickups on the market, few can compare to those created by Seth Lover.
strong>Project Overview The guitar I was hired to retrofit was a reissue Fender ’72 Tele Thinline. My job was to remove the two ’72 reissue Wide Range humbuckers and replace them with two original Seth Lover Wide Range pickups that came from a ’72 Telecaster Deluxe the client owned in the mid-’70s. The guitar is long gone, but amazingly he’d held onto the pickups along with their harness. For almost 40 years, they’d been stored in a box and hauled back and forth across the country. The client didn’t even know if they still worked, but he wanted me to put them in his modern Thinline. The swap sounded simple enough, but every project has its challenges, and you never know what lurks beneath the control plate until you get in there. We’re about to find out what can—and did—happen.
Who Is Seth Lover?
Before we dive into the details of
pickup replacement, it’s worth
taking a moment to get some
background on Seth Lover. He
invented the original PAF (Patent
Applied For) humbucker in
1955, while working for Gibson
(Lover’s tenure spanned 1952-
1967). The PAF humbucker was
the first successful attempt at
creating a hum-canceling pickup,
and it revolutionized the electric
guitar industry. Lover’s invention
virtually eliminated the 60-cycle
hum associated with single-coil
pickups, and it allowed guitarists
to play louder and with more
dynamics. It also introduced a
new sound to the electric guitar
palette—a fatter, rounder tone
that worked equally well for mellow
jazz and cranked rock ’n’ roll.
Lover began working for Fender
in 1967, and stayed with the
company until he retired in 1975.
In 1972, Seth invented the Wide
Range humbucker for Fender.
The Original Wide
Range vs. the Reissue
As I discovered, you can’t judge a
pickup by its cover. The original
and reissue pickups look nearly
identical, but they couldn’t be
more different. In lieu of a
typical humbucker’s slugs and
adjustable pole pieces, the original
’72 Wide Range (WR) pickup
has “cunife” (copper/nickel/
ferrite) threaded rod magnets.
Additionally, it has overwound
coils (consisting of about 6,800
wraps of copper wire) and cranks
out approximately 10.6k Ω of
DC resistance. In other words,
it’s a loud and bright powerhouse
of a pickup.
These Seth Lover Wide Range (WR) humbuckers came from a 1972 Fender Telecaster Deluxe. The pickups are unpotted and the original harness has 1 Meg Ω pots for its two Volume and two Tone controls.
The ’72 reissue WR pickup has an alnico (aluminum/nickel/ cobalt) magnetized bar placed at the bottom of the pickup, non-magnetic slugs and pole pieces, and measures at about 8k Ω of DC resistance. It’s also potted—that is, sealed with wax to fill all the voids inside the coils. The reissue is basically a darker, modern humbucker in a vintage casing.
Both are great pickups, but there is no substitute for the original.
Before installing any pickups—especially used or vintage units—use a multimeter to confirm they’re working and measure their DC resistance. This vintage WR bridge pickup has a DC resistance of 10.34k Ω. That‘s hot! Testing also revealed that the vintage neck WR humbucker was almost dead.
Test Before You Solder!
Before attacking the electronics
with my soldering iron,
I needed to test the pickups
to know what I was working
with. This is where things
got interesting. I got out my
multimeter to test the original
pickups to make sure they
were still functional. The WR
neck pickup was practically
dead—this made my heart
sink! (My client wasn’t too
happy either.) Fortunately, the
vintage bridge pickup was perfect.
At this point, we decided
to leave the WR reissue pickup
in the neck position and install
the original ’72 pickup in the
bridge position. Though we
couldn’t use it for this project,
the client will get the vintage
WR neck pickup rewound by
an expert.
Vintage and Modern
Designs Collide
Of course, combining vintage
and reissue WR pickups introduced
a few new challenges.
The first question was, would
we use the 1 Meg Ω pots from
the original ’72 harness or go
with the 250k Ω pots from the
reissue Tele? The 250k pots produce
a warmer tone; 1 Meg Ω
pots make pickups sound much
brighter. After some debate, we
decided to use the 250k pots.
Removing the vintage bridge WR pickup from its original 1 Meg Ω harness. The pickup will be connected to 250k Ω Tone and Volume pots in the reissue Thinline Tele.
Unscrewing the reissue Tele’s pickguard. Always guide the screwdriver with your fingertips to prevent it from slipping off the screw and gouging the finish.
I removed the reissue bridge pickup and prepared to install the original ’72 in its place. The first problem I ran into was a huge glob of solder on the volume pot. In order to attach the ground and secondary lead wires from the pickup to the volume pot, this glob had to be removed.
Before removing a pickup, mark where its lead wire attaches to the selector switch. This will tell you where to solder the replacement pickup’s lead.
Opening the cover of the reissue Tele reveals the underside of the modern Fender humbuckers. Notice how the guitar is protected by a leather pad. To prevent the electronics from damaging the instrument, it’s important to rest them on some sturdy material—a small towel works in a pinch.
To remove a pickup lead wire, touch the soldering tip to the connection, let the solder melt, and quickly pull out the wire. Be careful not to touch other wires with the iron and remove its tip immediately once the wire comes free.
The risk in using a soldering iron for this task is you may overheat the pot and ruin it. To avoid that, I grabbed a small pair of flushcut dykes and gently crimped off the glob. With it removed, I was able to solder the ground and secondary lead wires without the risk of damaging the pot or having to use too much solder. Using too much solder can lead to a “cold weld” and create a poor connection for the wire.
After removing the wire, use the hot iron tip to clean off residual solder from the switch terminal.
Using flush-cut dykes to remove a glob of solder before attaching the vintage WR pickup’s ground wire to the reissue Tele’s volume pot.
Tinning the vintage WR’s ground wire. It’s easiest to do this before you mount a pickup into a pickguard or the guitar.
The vintage WR humbucker (left) installed in the pickguard and now ready for wiring. Notice the difference between it and the modern counterpart with its exposed coil leads.
Next, I soldered the primary lead from the vintage WR bridge pickup to the selector switch. “That should do it,” I thought, but I was too quick to judge. I reassembled the guitar, did a rough adjustment on the bridge pickup height, and then plugged in the guitar to test it.
Attaching the lead wire from the vintage WR pickup. A pair of hemostats comes in handy for getting into tight places and clamping a wire to the terminal before you solder them together.
The pickups sounded great in the neck and bridge positions, but not so good in the dual-pickup position. In fact, the combined pickups sounded like an amp with a blown speaker and no bass! Each pickup was wired correctly to the guitar, so what could cause this hideous tone?
After mounting and soldering the replacement pickup, test your work before installing the pickguard on the guitar. Gently tap each pickup as you move through the switch selections to assure that everything is wired correctly, and roll your Volume and Tone pot back and forth to make sure they’re operating, too.
It turns out the pickups were out-of-phase with each other. This goes back to how differently these two pickups were designed and constructed. Remember, the reissue WR pickup is just a basic humbucker, whereas the original ’72 WR was a completely different animal. In the process of combining these humbuckers, we discovered they’re wired oppositely from each other. My solution was to reverse the start (primary lead) and the finish (secondary lead) of the reissue pickup. Once I swapped its leads around, the reissue pickup sounded great with its vintage forebear, and switched together they yielded a beautiful, bold chime.
Don’t forget to connect the ground wire! This attaches internally to the bridge and strings.
Rule of thumb: Do not mess with the wiring of a vintage pickup. New pickups are fair game, but the originals are sacred.
With the vintage WR humbucker installed and wired up, it’s time to reassemble and test the Tele.
Fine-Tuning the Tone
Once we’d crossed that phase
hurdle, I was almost finished
with this crazy project. The last
part of any pickup-replacement
process is to adjust the height
of the pickups to balance their
individual output levels.
Normally, when I adjust the height of the neck and bridge pickups, I set the bridge pickup a little closer to the strings than its sibling. If you don’t do this, the neck pickup can sound much louder than the bridge. However, because the vintage ’72 bridge unit is hotter than the reissue neck pickup, I knew I had to compensate for this. The solution was to match the height on both pickups—an unusual but effective move.
Once the guitar is strung up, it’s time to measure pickup height in order to balance the volume between the neck and bridge units. Fret the two E strings at the highest position, and then measure the gap between the bottom of each E string and the top of its pole piece.
Incidentally, if you’re ever lucky enough to find an original WR humbucker, be very careful when adjusting its threaded magnets. The cunife material is very soft and can break easily. If the pole pieces are difficult to turn, stop. The last thing you want to do is break one of these irreplaceable poles. Remember, these are magnets and without them, the pickup is useless. In fact, for this project I recommended that we not touch the vintage poles, and my client agreed to keep them at the height he’d set four decades ago.
Mission accomplished! Though it’s hard to see in a photo, the two Wide Range pickups look different. Not only is the vintage bridge pickup’s cover worn from gigging, but on the modern edition the embossed Fender logo is pressed much deeper into the metal. The lettering is also much finer on the original cover, and this will help you identify a real ’72, if you ever encounter one. Photo by Ariel Ellis
Sonic Success
At first, my client was dismayed
that the vintage neck pickup
was dead. But after doing some
recording sessions and hearing
the guitar in action, he reported
that the combination of modern
neck and vintage bridge WR
humbuckers actually makes
a very musical combination.
(“Sweet, clear neck and jangly,
brash bridge tones,” is how he
described it.) So if you come
across only one of these Wide
Range Seth Lover humbuckers,
it’s still not out of the question to
mate it with a modern humbucker.
Remember, replacing pickups
on a guitar can give it a whole
new personality, so don’t be afraid
to explore the sonic possibilities.
Although projects like this one can be challenging, the final result was very satisfying. The guitar sounds great with the original ’72 WR pickup. As an added bonus, I got to install a real Seth Lover pickup and rediscover why he was such a genius!
The Velvet Sledgehammer is Mayfly’s first heavy distortion pedal.
It uses an overdriven LM308 op-amp with 1N4148 clipping diodes, followed by an adjustable filter circuit. This is followed by an active midrange control with 12db of boost or cut. This allows you to scoop or boost your mids adding a whole lot of flexibility to a classic distortion design.
If you were to say “Hey! That sounds like a RAT with an active midrange!”, you would not be far off. But it’s that midrange control that makes this pedal so much better sounding than a typical RAT clone. You can scoop it for a metal tone, but I especially like to boost the mids with higher distortion settings. A typical RAT can get pretty fizzy when you crank the distortion, but boosting the mids gives a lot of body back to your sound. Either way (I’m going to use a big cliché here) with the active midrange control your palette of tones expands onwards towards the horizon. ;)
The name “Velvet Sledgehamer” and the motorcycle artwork are both inspired by a motorcycle model known for its sophistication, grace, and for having so much power it would lift the front wheel instantly when you twisted the throttle. The Velvet Sledgehammer distortion pedal has the same kind of feel. Crank on the distortion knob and it will make you feel like you can wheelie all the way down the block.
• Heavy distortion pedal.
• Active midrange control with 12db of boost/cut (center position is flat).
• Two pole adjustable filter control.
• Distortion and volume controls.
• Full bypass.
• 9VDC, 28mA.
MAP price: $145 USD ($199 CAD).
Duane Betts enjoys a control set modification that was preferred by his father, the late, legendary Dickey Betts.
Duane Betts and reader Steve Nowicki join the PG staff to discuss their favorite ways to customize their setups.
Question: What’s your favorite guitar mod?
Guest Picker - Duane Betts
Betts’ 1961 ES-335 has its toggle and volume-dial positions switched.
A: My favorite mod is the one on my 1961 Gibson ES-335. The toggle switch and neck volume knob positions have been switched so the volume knob is more accessible for volume swells using your pinky finger. This is something my dad had done when he obtained the guitar in the ’90s as he loved using the volume swell effect.
A pedal primed for vintage fuzz sounds.
Obsession: My current obsession is this DanDrive Secret Machine fuzz that JD Simo gave me a few years ago. I don’t use fuzz often but I’ve loved it as a way to change things up and give the listener something fresh. My normal tone is very natural with the amp turned up. This is just a great fuzz tone that gives me a new angle that I really enjoy pursuing both live and in the studio.
Reader of the Month - Steve Nowicki
A: A push/pull knob for humbucker coil split. It’s a sneaky little mod I throw on my tone pots. You won’t get amazing Strat tone, but the ability to instantly swap between Les Paul chunk and Fender twang during a jam opens a ton of possibilities tonally. Plus, no extra switches or routing needed—even though it’s fun to hack guitars apart.
Obsession: The EVH 5150 Iconic EL34 amp. Owning an 80-watt half-stack in a Brooklyn apartment might be overkill, but damn this amp is awesome. It delivers insane amounts of gain and distortion, yet every little nuance of your playing comes through crystal clear. I pair it with a Bugera Power Soak so I can crank the head and get that warm “Brown Sound” tone at lower volumes.
John Bohlinger - Nashville Correspondent
John Bohlinger and his Lukather-ized Strat.
A: I’ve hacked up a bunch of guitars over the years, but my favorite mod remains the highly intrusive, expensive, and quixotic B-bender install. It is the equivalent of open heart surgery, and there’s no going back—but the first time you play the Clarence White “You Ain’t Goin’ Nowhere” intro right, it’s totally worth it.
John at work. When it comes to mods, he know the drill!
Obsession: I recently filmed a PG video where we swapped pickups in my ’90s Strat with an EMG Lukather set. I never thought I’d go active, but what gets me is how smoothly the volume and tone work. I’m rethinking all my gear biases. Like maybe there’s been some progress since 1957.
Jon Levy - Publisher
Let it bleed: Jon dials back the treble on his Tele.
A: Installing a treble bleed on my volume pots has changed how I play electric guitar. Previously, I never dialed back my volume knob because it dulled my sound. Now I can fine-tune loudness and gain while retaining tone—it’s a game changer. I still swap pickups and hardware, but one mod always comes first: the humble treble bleed.
Did you know both John Paul Jones and Jimmy Page played on Shirley Bassey’s iconic recording of “Goldfinger?”
Obsession: John Paul Jones. I’ve always loved his bass (and other instrumental contributions) with Led Zeppelin. But after seeing the Zep documentary [Becoming Led Zeppelin] I searched his session work from 1964–1968, which includes Shirley Bassey, Lulu, Donovan and more. What an amazingly versatile and talented artist he is!
The series features three distinct models—The Bell,The Dread, and The Parlor—each built to deliver rich, resonant acoustic sound with effortless amplification.
Constructed with solid Sitka spruce tops and solid mahogany back & sides, the Festival Series offers warm, balanced tone with incredible sustain. A Fishman pickup system, paired with hidden volume and tone control knobs inside the sound hole, ensures seamless stage and studio performance.
Grover 16:1 ratio tuners provide superior tuning stability, while D’Addario strings enhance clarity and playability. Each guitar comes with a heavy-padded gig bag, making it a perfect choice for gigging musicians and traveling artists.
Key Features of the Festival Series Guitars:
- Solid Sitka Spruce Top – Provides bright, articulate tone with impressive projection
- Solid Mahogany Back & Sides – Adds warmth and depth for a well-balanced sound
- Fishman Pickup System – Delivers natural, high-fidelity amplified tone
- Hidden Volume & Tone Control Knobs – Discreetly placed inside the sound hole for clean aesthetics
- Grover Tuners (16:1 Ratio) – Ensures precise tuning stability
- D’Addario Strings – Premium strings for enhanced sustain and playability
- Heavy-Padded Gig Bag Included – Provides protection and convenience for musicians on the go
Mooer Prime Minimax M2 Intelligent Pedal boasts 194 effects models, 80 preset slots, MNRS and third-party sample file compatibility, an 80-minute looping module, internal drum machine, high-precision tuner, Bluetooth support, and a rechargeable lithium battery.
Over the last few years, Mooer has released several Prime multi-effects devices, including the Prime P1, P2, S1, and most recently in 2024, the Prime Minimax M1. Excitingly, the company is kicking off 2025 with a brand new addition to the Prime family–the Prime Minimax M2 Intelligent Pedal.
Within this small multi-effects device, a whole lot of functionality is packed in, including an impressive 194 effects models, including overdrive, preamp simulators, cabinet models, delays, reverbs, modulation effects, etc., and more. In typical Mooer style, though, the company took things a step further by offering limitless flexibility through the support of its in-house MNRS sample files, as well as third-party IR sample files. Essentially, this means that users can download additional tonal emulations and effects from the Mooer Cloud and third-party sources to the device, which they can then save across 80 preset slots.
As with some past models in the Prime series, the M2 sports a convenient touchscreen design, facilitating easy browsing through the devices banks of presets. However, guitarists are not limited to interfacing with the pedal in this way, as it also features two footswitches, both of which can be used to switch between presets in each bank. There is even a MIDI jack built into the device, enabling users to connect their MIDI controllers to extend the control functions, and the MOOER F4 wireless footswitch support is also supported. Essentially, these augmentation options facilitate additional footswitches to ensure switching preset tones is always as quick and seamless as possible within any workflow.
While the Prime M2 Intelligent Pedal is primarily designed for effects and tonal simulations, it also comes packed with an array of other useful features. For example, it contains a looping module with a hefty 80-minute capacity, in addition to 10 recording save slots to ensure that any looping creations can be kept for future use in performances. Similar to past looper modules in Mooer's products, users are also free to overdub their recordings and even undo or redo their overdubs, offering a lot of real-time flexibility for creating loop-based musical structures.
As if the addition of a looper wasn’t enough, this feature is also synchronizable with an internal drum machine and metronome, a combination that includes 56 drum grooves and 4 metronome varieties. Ultimately, it’s a reminder that Mooer clearly recognizes and wishes to solve the struggles that musicians have when attempting to produce precise loops while staying in time. Upon commencing recording, the drum machine can produce four initial beats to serve as a count-in cue, and of course, this can be combined with the device's tap-tempo control for dynamic use. Best of all, this feature can also be applied to modulation and delay effects, ensuring that they work perfectly in time with any performance.
Extra features are included to complete this all-in-one pedal, including a high-precision tunerwith fully customizable frequency ranges. Guitarists can even leverage the M2’s built-inBluetooth input support, allowing them to practice, jam, and even produce looped musicalstructures over their favorite backing tracks, band prototypes, and musical pieces.
Perhaps unsurprisingly for existing Mooer product users, the Prime M2 also boasts an impressive variety of audio routing systems. As was previously mentioned, that includes Bluetooth input, as well as industry standards such as dual-channel stereo output, perfect for stereo delay and modulation effects. It also supports headphone output for those who wish to practice in silence, and even OTG recording, which means that guitarists can record their creations directly to their smartphone whilst on the go.
Speaking of on-the-go, Mooer is continuing its recent portable-play focus with the Prime M2Intelligent Pedal, as it is fitted with a built-in rechargeable lithium battery with a battery life of up to 6 hours. Ultimately, this means that even a lack of local power sources won’t get in the way of rehearsals and live performances. Combined with the pedal’s lightweight and small build, it truly is an ideal addition to the pedalboard of any traveling musician.
Overall, the Prime M2 Intelligent Pedal is set to be an impressive new addition to the Prime series. It features augmented functionality when compared to past models, yet still in a minimalist and easy-to-use package, keeping the size small and light yet still packing in footswitches, a touch screen, and other flexible control systems.
Features:
- 194 built-in effect models and tonal emulations
- 80 preset slots for storing downloaded MNRS and third-party sample files
- Compatibility with the MOOER Cloud tone-sharing platform
- Built-in 80-minute looping module
- Record, overdub, pause, delete, and playback functions for looping
- Internal drum machine module, stocked with 56 drum grooves
- 4 unique metronomes
- Synchronization between drum machine and looper
- Convenient count-in cue function support from the metronome
- High-precision and customizable tuner module
- 2 multi-function footswitches
- 1.28-inch touchscreen interface
- LED digital display
- LED charge indicator
- Portable USB/OTG recording
- Direct compatibility with the MOOER prime mobile APP and MOOER Studio desktop software for preset management
- Bluetooth 5.0 audio playback
- 3000mAh integrated lithium battery with up to 6 hours of use time
- DC 5V/2A power supply and charging
- 3 hours charging time
- Low weight of 228g
- Compact, at 74mm (L), 125mm (W), and 49mm (H)
- Sample rate of 44.1kHz
- Bit depth of 24bit
- Compatible with MOOER F4 wireless footswitch
- 3.5mm MIDI port
- Mono TS ¼” input
- Stereo TS ¼” output
- 3.5mm headphone output
- Power switch button
The Prime Minimax M2 Intelligent Pedal will be available from the official distributors or retailersworldwide.
For more information, please visit mooeraudio.com.