
Looking for more classic growl in a simple, contemporary overdrive? CopperSound’s Alex Guaraldi explains how to swap the clipping LEDS in an ultra-affordable EarthQuaker Devices Plumes for germanium diodes, in nine easy steps.
Pedals offer a lot of opportunities for DIY projects. One of the coolest and easiest is removing the LED clipping diodes in a modern overdrive pedal and replacing them with old-school-sounding germanium ones. The result will be a more raw, aggressive tone. For this project, I used the popular and affordable EarthQuaker Devices Plumes ($99 street). Whether your version is the original with through-hole-type components or the current model with surface-mount components, you’ll easily be able to perform this mod because both versions contain through-hole-type LEDs.
Tools Required
These tools and supplies are available online. StewMac, for example, sells soldering irons, a desoldering pump, and other tools for instrument work, while nut drivers and germanium diodes can be acquired via a number of sources, including Amazon.
• Soldering iron
• Solder
• Desoldering pump
• No. 2 Phillips-head screwdriver
• Small flathead screwdriver
• 8 mm (5/16") nut driver/wrench
• 10 mm (25/64") nut driver/wrench
• 11 mm (7/16") nut driver/wrench
• 14 mm(9/16") wrench
• Flush cutters
• Small needle-nose pliers
• Germanium diodes
Step 1: Remove back cover.
Using a No. 2 Phillips-head screwdriver, remove the four screws holding the back cover on.
Step 2: Remove external hardware.
The fastest way to swap diodes may be to do it from the component side, without even removing the circuit board from the enclosure. But for easier access and less difficulty, I’m going to remove the entire printed circuit board (PCB) from the enclosure. Since almost everything is mounted directly to the PCB, this should be easy.
Using a small flathead screwdriver, remove the knobs from the potentiometer shafts. Only loosen the knob set screws enough to slide the knobs off. No need to be searching the floor for tiny screws.
Next, using an 8 mm (5/16") nut driver or wrench, remove the nut from the toggle switch. Then, using a 10 mm (25/64”) nut driver or wrench, remove the three nuts and washers from the potentiometers.
Photo 1
For the last piece of external hardware located on the face—the footswitch—we’ll actually want to go inside and disconnect its plug from the board.
On the bottom left side of the PCB, there will be a white rectangular connector. We need to unplug the female end from the male end. This is where small needle-nose pliers can help. A small screwdriver or even fingers may do the trick, too. Finesse is key. We don’t want to break the wires from the female connector.
Photo 2
Once dislocated, we can go back to the face and remove the footswitch using a 14 mm (9/16") wrench.
Step 3: Remove external hardware on the back heel.
The last external hardware to remove is the audio jack bushings.
Photo 3
Removing these will allow the PCB to slide out of the enclosure. Using an 11mm (7/16") nut driver or wrench, remove the bushings and beveled washers from the audio jacks. Now, the circuit board is free to be removed from the enclosure.
Step 4: Remove the PCB from the enclosure.
The four controls and two audio jacks that interface with the enclosure may create some resistance when trying to remove the PCB. Typically, it’s from the collars of the audio jacks. Using a small screwdriver in one of the top corners and gently prying the PCB back usually does the trick.
Photo 4
Step 5: Locating the clipping LEDs.
Now that the PCB is removed from the enclosure, we need to locate the clipping LEDs from the top side. They are the two small red silos at the center of the pedal.
Photo 5
Then, we need to locate the pads (the exposed metal on the PCB) for them on the bottom side, and, once again, they are centrally located.
Photo 6
Step 6: Removing the clipping LEDs.
Now that we’ve located the LEDs, let’s go ahead and remove them. Quick note: The Plumes I worked on was a new unit consisting primarily of surface mount device (SMD) components. The LEDs are located between the pots and switch, so they can be difficult to access from the bottom side. The easiest way to remove the LEDs is to actually snip them from the top side, after noting how they are soldered in place.
Photo 7
We’re not planning on using them, and they’re cheap enough to purchase again, so breaking them is no worry. We just need to be sure not to damage any of the nearby components. The best approach may be to break the shell/bulb of the LEDs. Doing this will expose the two leads.
Photo 8
With these two leads exposed, we can easily remove each lead from the solder pads on the top side. Let’s apply heat to each pad and remove the leads with small needle-nose pliers. Jump to the alternate approach section in step seven if you experience solder removal difficulties. (Quick tips: Existing solder tends to flow better when a bit of fresh solder is applied to it. You’ll also want to heat the lead/pad and then grab the lead with the pliers. Grabbing the lead with the pliers first will take longer because the heat will transfer to the metal of the pliers. Don’t apply heat to a solder pad longer than needed. Doing this can compromise the pad.)
Once the leads are removed, we need to remove the remaining solder from the pads. This is where the desoldering pump (commonly referred to as a “solder sucker”) comes in. Apply a bit of fresh solder to the pads and remove it using the pump. YouTube is your friend here, for some quick desoldering pump lessons.
Step 7: Adding germanium diodes.
Check the polarity of the diode. For this mod, I chose 1n34a diodes, which are very common and available on Amazon. These diodes are polarized and have a positive and negative side. On the 1n34a, the negative lead is designated by the black band that wraps around the body of the diode (this is not the case for all germanium diodes). On PCBs, square pads denote positive. However, for the diode package that we’re adding, the square pad is negative.
Photo 9
Using Photo 10 for reference, gently bend one of the diode legs so that it’s parallel with the body of the diode. Place the bent legs into their correct pads—the negative side of the diode will go into the square pad and the positive into the circlular pad. Solder the pads from the bottom side of the PCB and snip the excess leg length with a pair of flush cutters. The excess leg length can also be removed with needle-nose pliers by bending the legs back and forth several times.
Photo 10
Alternate approach: If you’re experiencing trouble getting the remaining solder out of each pad, there’s a different approach to try. This approach may actually be helpful for this particular mod, because the pad spacing is small. If a pad connects to a ground plane (a layer of copper typically the size of the entire PCB that connects directly to the main ground pin on the DC jack) or several locations (other components in the schematic) it will require more heat because the applied heat wants to travel to all the connected areas. Typically, with clipping diodes, only one pad will experience this and give desoldering difficulties. In such a case, follow these steps:
1. Establish which pad has remaining solder. For this mod, the square pads are the positive pads, because they hosted LEDs. The diodes we’re adding want to have the negative side go into the square pad.
2. Cut the negative side of the germanium diode lead down to about 5 mm length. The negative side on the 1n34a is the lead closest to the black line indicator seen in Photo 9.
3. Heat the pad that has remaining solder in it and drop the short side lead into the solder.
4. Bend the other lead over like a horseshoe and mate it with the desoldered pad. (See Photo 10)
5. Solder the second side.
6. Repeat for the second diode, keeping in mind that the polarity of the diode needs to be opposite of the first diode that we soldered in as seen in Photo 11.
Photo 11
Step 8: Test.
Before putting everything back together, plugging the unit in as-is can be helpful. This way, if it isn’t working, we can go back and look at solder joints and any potential issues.
Photo 12
Step 9: Put everything back together.
Simply reverse the disassembly steps and enjoy!
A final note: If you love DIY projects or are interested in learning pedal design, my company, CopperSound, has a DIY section on its website, which also includes links to other DIY dealers. We offer integrated breadboards, component substitution boxes, adaptors for toggle switches, and even solder dispensers. For more information, please check out coppersoundpedals.com/DIYLutefish, the real-time music collaboration device and platform, is excited to announce a suite of new features designed to simplify setup, streamline collaboration, and offer more flexible subscription options for Lutefish Stream users. These latest updates, Audio Presets, Automatic Session Recall, Improved Scheduling with Contact Visibility, and a new Yearly Subscription Plan, are all about making it easier than ever for musicians to jam together, no matter where they’re based.
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The veteran Florida-born metalcore outfit proves that you don’t need humbuckers to pull off high gain.
Last August, metalcore giants Poison the Well gave the world a gift: They announced they were working on their first studio album in 15 years. They unleashed the first taste, single “Trembling Level,” back in January, and set off on a spring North American tour during which they played their debut record, The Opposite of December… A Season of Separation, in full every night.
PG’s Perry Bean caught up with guitarists Ryan Primack and Vadim Taver, and bassist Noah Harmon, ahead of the band’s show at Nashville’s Brooklyn Bowl for this new Rig Rundown.
Brought to you by D’Addario.Not-So-Quiet As a Mouse
Primack started his playing career on Telecasters, then switched to Les Pauls, but when his prized LPs were stolen, he jumped back to Teles, and now owns nine of them.
His No. 1 is this white one (left). Seymour Duncan made him a JB Model pickup in a single-coil size for the bridge position, while the neck is a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pound Staggered. He ripped out all the electronics, added a Gibson-style toggle switch, flipped the control plate orientation thanks to an obsession with Danny Gatton, and included just one steel knob to control tone. Primack also installed string trees with foam to control extra noise.
This one has Ernie Ball Papa Het’s Hardwired strings, .011–.050.
Here, Kitty, Kitty
Primack runs both a PRS Archon and a Bad Cat Lynx at the same time, covering both 6L6 and EL34 territories. The Lynx goes into a Friedman 4x12 cab that’s been rebadged in honor of its nickname, “Donkey,” while the Archon, which is like a “refined 5150,” runs through an Orange 4x12.
Ryan Primack’s Pedalboard
Primack’s board sports a Saturnworks True Bypass Multi Looper, plus two Saturnworks boost pedals. The rest includes a Boss TU-3w, DOD Bifet Boost 410, Caroline Electronics Hawaiian Pizza, Fortin ZUUL +, MXR Phase 100, JHS Series 3 Tremolo, Boss DM-2w, DOD Rubberneck, MXR Carbon Copy Deluxe, Walrus Slo, and SolidGoldFX Surf Rider III.
Taver’s Teles
Vadim Taver’s go-to is this cherryburst Fender Telecaster, which he scored in the early 2000s and has been upgraded to Seymour Duncan pickups on Primack’s recommendation. His white Balaguer T-style has been treated to the same upgrade. The Balaguer is tuned to drop C, and the Fender stays in D standard. Both have D’Addario strings, with a slightly heavier gauge on the Balaguer.
Dual-Channel Chugger
Taver loves his 2-channel Orange Rockerverb 100s, one of which lives in a case made right in Nashville.
Vadim Taver’s Pedalboard
Taver’s board includes an MXR Joshua, MXR Carbon Copy Deluxe, Empress Tremolo, Walrus ARP-87, Old Blood Noise Endeavors Reflector, MXR Phase 90, Boss CE-2w, and Sonic Research Turbo Tuner ST-200, all powered by a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus.
Big Duff
Harmon’s favorite these days is this Fender Duff McKagan Deluxe Precision Bass, which he’s outfitted with a Leo Quan Badass bridge. His backup is a Mexico-made Fender Classic Series ’70s Jazz Bass. This one also sports Primack-picked pickups.
Rental Rockers
Harmon rented this Orange AD200B MK III head, which runs through a 1x15 cab on top and a 4x10 on the bottom.
Noah Harmon’s Pedalboard
Harmon’s board carries a Boss TU-2, Boss ODB-3, MXR Dyna Comp, Darkglass Electronics Vintage Ultra, and a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus. His signal from the Vintage Ultra runs right to the front-of-house, and Harmon estimates that that signal accounts for about half of what people hear on any given night.
Kiesel Guitars has introduced their newest solid body electric guitar: the Kyber.
With its modern performance specs and competitive pricing, the Kyber is Kiesel's most forward-thinking design yet, engineered for comfort, quick playing, and precision with every note.
Introducing the Kiesel Kyber Guitar
- Engineered with a lightweight body to reduce fatigue during long performances without sacrificing tone. Six-string Kybers, configured with the standard woods and a fixed bridge, weigh in at 6 pounds or under on average
- Unique shape made for ergonomic comfort in any playing position and enhanced classical position
- The Kyber features Kiesel's most extreme arm contour and a uniquely shaped body that enhances classical position support while still excelling in standard position.
- The new minimalist yet aggressive headstock pairs perfectly with the body's sleek lines, giving the Kyber a balanced, modern silhouette.
- Hidden strap buttons mounted on rear for excellent balance while giving a clean, ultra-modern look to the front
- Lower horn cutaway design for maximum access to the upper frets
- Sculpted neck heel for seamless playing
- Available in 6 or 7 strings, fixed or tremolo in both standard and multiscale configurations Choose between fixed bridges, tremolos, or multiscale configurations for your perfect setup.
Pricing for the Kyber starts at $1599 and will vary depending on options and features. Learn more about Kiesel’s new Kyber model at kieselguitars.com
The Sunset is a fully analog, zero latency bass amplifier simulator. It features a ¼” input, XLR and ¼” outputs, gain and volume controls and extensive equalization. It’s intended to replace your bass amp both live and in the studio.
If you need a full sounding amp simulator with a lot of EQ, the Sunset is for you. It features a five band equalizer with Treble, Bass, Parametric Midrange (with frequency and level controls), Resonance (for ultra lows), and Presence (for ultra highs). All are carefully tuned for bass guitar. But don’t let that hold you back if you’re a keyboard player. Pianos and synthesizers sound great with the Sunset!
The Sunset includes Gain and master Volume controls which allow you to add compression and classic tube amp growl. It has both ¼” phone and balanced XLR outputs - which lets you use it as a high quality active direct box. Finally, the Sunset features zero latency all analog circuitry – important for the instrument most responsible for the band’s groove.
Introducing the Sunset Bass Amp Simulator
- Zero Latency bass amp simulator.
- Go direct into the PA or DAW.
- Five Band EQ:
- Treble and Bass controls.
- Parametric midrange with level and frequency controls.
- Presence control for extreme highs.
- Resonance control for extreme lows.
- Gain control to add compression and harmonics.
- Master Volume.
- XLR and 1/4" outputs.
- Full bypass.
- 9VDC, 200mA.
Artwork by Aaron Cheney
MAP price: $210 USD ($299 CAD).