
Learning how to safely use a router is the key to this easy DIY project that you can do in an afternoon, yielding a different menu of tones.
The barrier between “I'll do it myself” and “my repair person will deal with this” often seems to lie at the point where power tools get involved—specifically one: the dreaded router. Since I enjoy encouraging those so inclined to challenge themselves, I believe that the router is a tool to be respected and not feared, and that, yes, you can actually do the pickup replacement we’re discussing here yourself.
Replacing a Bridge P-90 Pickup With a Humbucker in Epiphone Les Paul Special — Routing 101 | DIY
I’ll demonstrate by converting part of a new guitar into sawdust and noise, then transforming the instrument by installing a totally new pickup in the bridge position—so we can retain the natural flavor of the P-90 in the neck, but goose up the bridge position with a humbucker. And to make things even easier, there is a video of me doing this mod online at premierguitar.com, which I highly recommend watching. In it, I explain every step in great detail.
The guitar is a brand-new Epiphone Les Paul Special finished in glossy TV yellow—in my opinion, the best furniture finish ever commandeered for broadcast purposes—loaded with two P-90 pickups, black plastics, and chrome hardware. The pickup going into this guitar is a Parsons Street Humbucker by StewMac. Designed to emulate a popular variation of the traditional PAF-style humbucker, this medium-output pickup should retain plenty of treble clarity. It will mount to the guitar with a classic black humbucker mounting ring.
What You’ll Need for This Mod
Besides a guitar, a small bandsaw for cutting the pickguard, and painter’s tape, you can pick up everything you need for this modification project online at StewMac.com.
• Bosch Colt 1 HP Variable-Speed Palm Router
• Bosch Plunge Base for Palm Router
• Parsons Street Humbucker
• Fisch Wave Cutter Bit 5/8"
• Amana Tool Carbide Tipper Router Bit 1/4"
• Humbucker Pickup Routing Template
This is what our project guitar looked like before it hit the workbench.
Since we are on the topic of pickups, I’d like to note that the acronym PAF does not define a specific sound or a strict recipe for pickup making. It is simply a description of a design—Patent Applied For. Both P-90s and PAF-style humbuckers actually have a lot in common. If you examine their construction, it seems the goal for PAFs wasn’t necessarily a different-sounding pickup, just one that didn’t hum like its single-coil predecessors.
The OEM pickups in this Epiphone Les Paul Special are quick-connect, which makes for easy disassembling, but will require trimming the connectors and soldering as part of the humbucker’s installation.
As a result, a lot of the early Gibson ’buckers and P-90s have comparable output and not entirely dissimilar frequency response, depending on their magnets and how the coils were wound. These factors varied quite a bit for the first few years of production and produced some very different sounding pickups.
But, back to the bench, focusing on the task at hand.
Our author holds a StewMac humbucker-sized routing template over the pickup to be replaced.
This guitar is a good candidate for this kind of pickup swap for a few reasons: One, we only have to modify an existing pickup cavity; two, a medium-output bridge humbucker such as our Parsons Street should complement the sound of the neck P-90 nicely; and three, while the modification will be obvious, this new pickup will also complement the classic looks of the guitar.
The pickups are mounted to the body via two easy-to-remove screws.
You may be here looking for inspiration as much as information—thinking about trying this modification yourself, but still not sure. Although it’s ultimately your decision, I can at least equip you with some arguments for and against.
Try the mod if:
• You are curious about how different pickups sound and you recognize the benefit of using the same guitar as a control in your experiment.
• You love everything about your guitar, but want a little more punch from the bridge pickup. This is common with single-coil pickers, Telecaster aficionados excluded.
• You might deem the guitar cooler this way. After all, it’s an uncommon but highly effective treatment for this model—which could make you want to play it more.
Don’t try this mod if:
• You have a more valuable, historic, or rare instrument.
• The resale value of the guitar matters to you.
• It’s not your guitar (LOL).
• Safety and preparation are not priorities.
Don’t Fear the Router
The part of this modification that scares most people off is working with a router. It’s an intimidating device and fear of it is understandable, considering what it can do to a guitar, or fingers, but learning about how it works and how to use it should, hopefully, alleviate your fear.
A router is a powered chisel that does what a standard chisel can do, good or bad … only faster. Positive or negative results depend entirely on the operator, just like any hand tool. And good results come from developing good technique and practice, which is one of the skills this mod aims at developing.
There is a wealth of information available about technique and a limit to the length of this article, so I’m only going to focus on a few basic tips that will help you get started safely:
• Only power the router on or off when the bit is able to turn freely, not in contact with any material.
• Do not move the router while the bit is accelerating or decelerating.
• Multiple shallow cuts are better than one deep cut.
• Pay attention to the router bit’s direction of rotation when planning the direction of the cut.
• Use PPE—at the very least, safety glasses.
Now we can get started with the project. However, there are several things to do before we can begin making sawdust and noise.
If you’re just too excited about firing up the router and can’t wait, I understand, but please read through these steps first. Afterwards, feel free to practice some small shallow cuts on the edges of scrap wood before jumping into the project, using large enough pieces that can be secured to your work surface. This will give you a good idea of how the router feels and sounds when making a cut.
Step 1: First, all electronics and hardware should be removed from the guitar, to make sure we have plenty of room to operate the router without any obstacles. Take photos and draw diagrams now if you’re unfamiliar with guitar wiring, since you will probably have to disconnect the pickups and switch wires, and will definitely be connecting the new pickup. [Marshall provides instructions on this step in the video companion to this story on premierguitar.com, and StewMac has detailed wiring instructions on its website.]
Note that on this guitar, although the pickup selector switch is not in the way, I suggest removing the switch to keep the wires away from the router bit.
Step 2: Next, make sure the new pickup fits inside the template for the new pickup cavity. Make sure you have enough clearance to move the pickup through the template. It shouldn’t catch or rub on any part of the template.
Line up the template on the guitar body to determine where the new cavity will be. There are several techniques you could use here. Some might locate and mark the guitar’s center line, then line up the template that way, but since we are modifying an existing cavity we know is more or less centered, I suggest using that cavity as a guide and eyeballing it. Carefully.
Since the StewMac template has a center line and other measures on its face, it’s easy to position over the cavity for the OEM pickup and decide which of its zones need routing.
Step 3: Now that you know where the template goes, attach the template to the guitar. I prefer using rolled up painter’s tape on the bottom side of the template because it holds fairly well (as long as you don’t use too much force with the router), it’s easy to remove, and relatively safe for modern finishes. Stronger double-sided adhesives work well but run the risk of damaging either the guitar or the template on removal.
After taping the template in place, Marshall uses the router bit to trace the path he’ll use, and to gauge the depth of the pickup cavity versus the location of the bit’s bearing.
Step 4: The template determines the shape of the new cavity, but the router itself determines the depth of the cut. Start by setting the depth so that the tip of the router bit is just barely touching the bottom of the cavity when the router is sitting on the template. Once the cut is made, we can double-check to make sure this depth works.
With the template secured and the depth of cut adjusted, I suggest trying a “dry run” of the cut to make sure the router moves freely around the template. Keep in mind the bit’s direction of rotation and plan moves that allow the bit to cut into the wood—but don’t do it yet. Just outline your moves. Make sure that the bearing on top of the router bit can freely follow the template, too. Setting the depth too shallow risks cutting your template, ruining both it and your guitar.
This seems like an excessive amount of preparation, but trust me, an hour of planning can prevent a minute-long job from destroying your guitar.
It’s almost time for the fun part. Don’t turn the router on yet. Put on your safety glasses and consider using ear protection if you are sensitive to high-pitched, loud sounds. This would also be a good time to make sure you have a shop vacuum handy, as you are about to make quite a mess.
Step 5: Now, it’s time to actually make the cut. Tilt the router slightly so that the bit is completely free before turning the router on. Keep in mind that the router should not be moved while the bit is accelerating or decelerating, so don’t make any cuts until the router is at full speed.
Once it’s at full speed, make the cut as practiced earlier. Take several shallow passes instead of trying to remove all the wood at once. There’s no need to force the router, you will hear and feel when the bit is cutting. Too much force may cause your template to move and ruin your cut, wreck the router bit, or potentially hurt you. And since the router spins the bit in a specific direction, be sure the cutting edge of the router is digging into the wood and that you move the router in the direction that puts the blade edge of the bit forward.
Now, you can turn the router off, but remember not to move it until the bit has completely stopped rotating. Check that the template has not been damaged, that the cut matches the template, and the pickup fits neatly inside.
The sawdust flies as Marshall uses the router to slowly make gentle, shallow cuts, eventually reaching the cavity size required for the Parsons Street Humbucker.
Step 6: With this specific type of pickup, it turns out that we do need to make two slightly deeper cuts to accommodate the mounting screws and “ears” of the pickup base. You can do this by setting the bit to cut just a little deeper—in our case about 3/16" deeper—and cut only the areas around the pickup mounting screws. You could also do this with a hand drill or a drill press and a large spiral or Forstner bit, but I prefer the cleaner results from the router.
Checking the final cut to be sure there are no issues like snags or protrusions that would interfere with the fit of the pickup.
Step 7: Now, the new bridge pickup should fit. Test it by mounting the pickup in its ring and placing this assembly on the guitar. The mounting ring should sit on top of the guitar without having to force it down. If everything fits, go ahead and rewire and reassemble the guitar, then set it up to your liking. [We have a video at premierguitar.com called DIY: Easy 4-Step Guitar Setup.]
After placing the ring around the pickup, Marshall drops the humbucker and ring into place to test the fit. (As it turned out, a little bit of additional routing was required for the bottom of the cavity, to provide space for the humbucker’s left-side dog-ear mount.)
Step 8: On this Les Paul Special, since I’ve replaced the bridge P-90 with a bigger and more squared-off pickup mounting ring, the pickguard will have to be modified slightly to fit. I did this by tracing the pickguard onto a piece of paper, taping the tracing to the guitar, then marking the outline of the new pickup mounting ring. Now, I can use the tracing as a template and cut away the parts of the pickguard that I don’t need. I used a small bandsaw blade to cut away most of the material and slowly fine-tuned the edges with files and a small scraper until it fit.
Here’s the paper template Marshall used to trace the new pickguard configuration required to accommodate the Parsons Street Humbucker. He then placed it atop the actual pickguard to make the cut.
I like to start with my bridge pickup very close to the strings, somewhere around 3/32" away from the treble strings and balancing the bass side of the pickup by ear. After that, I like to set the height of the neck pickup just by comparing the sound of each pickup, again, making sure that the output of each pickup is balanced from the bass side to the treble side.
To my ears, the humbucker we used in this guitar works very well paired with the stock P-90 in the neck position. It’s a medium output pickup, so it does have a bit more punch than the P-90 but doesn’t overpower it. Higher output humbuckers can roll off a bit of treble, depending on how they’re made, but this pickup has plenty of brightness for me. Both pickups together have abundant chime and sparkle. I really like this sound!
The proof is in the playing: Marshall tries out the Epiphone Les Paul Special’s new, combined humbucker-and-P-90 sound.
And on top of all that, I think this guitar looks really cool now as well. To me, that’s worth an afternoon’s work.
Learning to use a router is a great introduction to serious guitar modifications. It can be intimidating, but once you learn the basics, it opens up so many possibilities for modifications and repairs. Embrace the router!
Shop DIY tools and Supplies for your next guitar project: https://stewmac.sjv.io/qnPnag
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Join PG contributor Tom Butwin as he explores all-new versions of the Framus Hootenanny 12-string and 6-string acoustics—made famous by John Lennon and now available with modern upgrades. From vintage-inspired tone to unique features, these guitars are built to spark creativity.
Neil Young’s ’70s hits are some of the most recognizable radio rock jams of all time. But Neil’s guitar playing continued to grow over the ensuing decades, as he traversed styles from blues to country to electronic to rockabilly and beyond, eventually developing one of the most tonally decadent, fully formed improvisational voices in the entire guitar universe.
Neil Young’s ’70s hits are some of the most recognizable radio rock jams of all time. But Neil’s guitar playing continued to grow over the ensuing decades, as he traversed styles from blues to country to electronic to rockabilly and beyond, eventually developing one of the most tonally decadent, fully formed improvisational voices in the entire guitar universe.
Like any discography that’s been growing over the course of more than half a century, it can be hard to decode Young’s work. And with such an adventurous spirit, it could be easy to make some missteps and miss out on his best guitar works. In this episode, Nick guides Jason through some of his hero’s finest moments.
More news from Neil always seems to be on the horizon, so here’s your chance to catch up.
This episode is sponsored by Gibson.
This Japan-made Guyatone brings back memories of hitchin’ rides around the U.S.
This oddball vintage Guyatone has a streak of Jack Kerouac’s adventurous, thumbing spirit.
The other day, I saw something I hadn’t noticed in quite some time. Driving home from work, I saw an interesting-looking fellow hitchhiking. When I was a kid, “hitchers” seemed much more common, but, then again, the world didn’t seem as dangerous as today. Heck, I can remember hitching to my uncle’s cabin in Bradford, Pennsylvania—home of Zippo lighters—and riding almost 200 miles while I sat in a spare tire in the open bed of a pickup truck! Yes, safety wasn’t a big concern for kids back in the day.
So, as I’m prone to do, I started digging around hitchhiking culture and stories. Surprisingly, there are organized groups that embrace the hitching life, but the practice remains on the fringe in the U.S. Back in the 1950s, writer Jack Kerouac wrote the novel On the Road, which celebrated hitchhiking and exposed readers to the thrill of maverick travel. Heck, even Mike Dugan (the guitarist in all my videos) hitched his way to California in the 1960s. But seeing that fellow on the side of the road also sparked another image in my brain: Yep, it always comes back to guitars.
Let me present to you a guitar that’s ready to go hitching: the Guyatone LG-180T, hailing from 1966. The “thumbs-up” headstock and the big “thumb” on the upper bout always made me think of thumbing a ride, and I bought and sold this guitar so long ago that I had forgotten about it, until I saw that hitchhiking dude. Guyatone was an interesting Japanese company because they were primarily an electronics company, and most of their guitars had their wooden parts produced by other factories. In the case of the LG-180T, the bodies were made by Yamaha in Hamamatsu, Japan. At that time, Yamaha was arguably making the finest Japanese guitars, and the wood on this Guyatone model is outstanding. We don’t often see Guyatone-branded guitars here in the U.S., but a lot of players recognize the early ’60s label Kent—a brand name used by an American importer for Guyatone guitars.
With a bit of imagination, the LG-180T’s “thumbs up” headstock seems to be looking for a roadside ride.
Kent guitars were extremely popular from the early ’60s until around 1966. The U.S. importer B&J fed the American need for electric guitars with several nice Kent models, but when the Guyatone contract ended, so did most of the Kent guitars. After that, Guyatone primarily sold guitars in Japan, so this example is a rare model in the U.S.
“Unless you are a master at guitar setups, this would be a difficult player.”
This headstock is either the ugliest or the coolest of the Guyatone designs. I can’t decide which. I will say, no other Japanese guitar company ever put out anything like this. You have to give the Guyatone designers a thumbs up for trying to stand out in the crowd! Guyatone decided to forgo an adjustable truss rod in this model, opting instead for a light alloy non-adjustable core to reinforce the neck. Speaking of the neck, this instrument features the most odd-feeling neck. It’s very thin but has a deep shoulder (if that makes any sense). Totally strange!
Another strange feature is the bridge, which offers very little adjustment because of the three large saddles, which sort of rock back and forth with the tremolo. It’s a shame because these pickups sound great! They’re very crisp and have plenty of zing, but unless you are a master at guitar set-ups, this would be a difficult player.
This could be why the LG-180T only appeared in the 1966 and 1967 catalogs. After that, it disappeared along with all the other Yamaha-made Guyatone electrics. By 1969, Guyatone had gone bankrupt for the first time, and thus ended guitar production for a few decades. At least we were blessed with some wacky guitar designs we can marvel at while remembering the days when you could play in the back end of an explosive 1973 AMC Gremlin while your mom raced around town. Two thumbs up for surviving our childhoods! PG
There's a lot of musical gold inside the scales.
Intermediate
Intermediate
• Develop a deeper improvisational vocabulary.
• Combine pentatonic scales to create new colors.
• Understand the beauty of diatonic harmony.Improvising over one chord for long stretches of time can be a musician's best friend or worst nightmare. With no harmonic variation, we are left to generate interest through our lines, phrasing, and creativity. When I started learning to improvise, a minor 7 chord and a Dorian mode were the only sounds that I wanted to hear at the time. I found it tremendously helpful to have the harmony stay in one spot while I mined for new ideas to play. Playing over a static chord was crucial in developing my sense of time and phrasing.
The following is the first improvisational device I ever came across. I want to say I got it from a Frank Gambale book. The idea is that there are three minor pentatonic scales "hiding" in any given major scale. If we're in the key of C (C–D–E–F–G–A–B) we can pluck out the D, E, and A minor pentatonic scales. If we frame them over a Dm7 chord, they give us different five-note combinations of the D Dorian mode. In short, we are building minor pentatonic scales off the 2, 3, and 6 of the C major scale.
Viewing this through the lens of D minor (a sibling of C major and the tonal center for this lesson), D minor pentatonic gives us the 1–b3–4–5–b7, E minor pentatonic gives us 2–4–5–6–1, and A minor pentatonic gives us 5–b7–1–2–4. This means you can use your favorite pentatonic licks in three different locations and there are three different sounds we can tap into from the same structure.
If you smashed all of them together, you would get the D Dorian scale (D–E–F–G–A–B–C) with notes in common between the D, E, and A minor pentatonic scales. Ex. 1 uses all three scales, so you can hear the different colors each one creates over the chord.
Ex. 1
Ex. 2 is how I improvise with them, usually weaving in and out using different positional shapes.
Ex. 2
The next idea is one I stole from a guitarist who often came into a music store I worked at. On the surface, it's very easy: Just take two triads (in our example it will be Dm and C) and ping-pong between them. The D minor triad (D–F–A) gives us 1–b3–5, which is very much rooted in the chord, and the C major triad (C–E–G) gives us the b7–9–4, which is much floatier. Also, if you smash these two triads together, you get 1–2–b3–4–5–b7, which is a minor pentatonic scale with an added 2 (or 9). Eric Johnson uses this sound all the time. Ex. 3 is the lick I stole years ago.
Ex. 3
Ex. 4 is how I would improvise with this concept. Many different fingerings work with these, so experiment until you find a layout that's comfortable for your own playing.
Ex. 4
If two triads work, why not seven? This next approach will take all the triads in the key of C (C–Dm–Em–F–G–Am–Bdim) and use them over a Dm7 chord (Ex. 5). Each triad highlights different three-note combinations from the Dorian scale, and all of them sound different. Triads are clear structures that sound strong to our ears, and they can generate nice linear interest when played over one chord. Once again, all of this is 100% inside the scale. Ex. 5 is how each triad sounds over the track, and Ex. 6 is my attempt to improvise with them.
Ex. 5
Ex. 6
If we could find all these possibilities with triads, it's logical to make the structure a little bigger and take a similar approach with 7 chords, or in this case, arpeggios. Naturally, all the diatonic chords will work, but I'll limit this next idea to just Dm7, Fmaj7, Am7, and Cmaj7. I love this approach because as you move further away from the Dm7 shape, each new structure takes out a chord tone and replaces it with an extension. I notice that I usually come up with different lines when I'm thinking about different chord shapes, and this approach is a decent way to facilitate that. Ex. 7 is a good way to get these under your fingers. Just ascend one shape, shift into the next shape on the highest string, then descend and shift to the next on the lowest string.
Ex. 7
Ex. 8 is my improvisation using all four shapes and sounds, but I lean pretty heavily on the Am7.
Ex. 8
This last concept has kept me busy on the fretboard for the last five years or so. Check it out: You can take any idea that works over Dm7 and move the other diatonic chords. The result is six variations of your original lick. In Ex. 9 I play a line that is 4–1–b3–5 over Dm7 and then walk it through the other chords in the key. These notes are still in the key of C, but it sounds drastically different from playing a scale.
Ex. 9
In Ex. 10, I try to think about the shapes from the previous example, but I break up the note order in a random but fun way. The ending line is random but felt good, so I left it in.
Ex. 10
While all these concepts have been presented over a minor chord, you can just as easily apply them to any chord quality, and they work just as well in harmonic or melodic minor. Rewarding sounds are available right inside the harmony, and I am still discovering new ideas through these concepts after many years.
Though the above ideas won't necessarily be appropriate for every style or situation, they will work in quite a few. Developing any approach to the point that it becomes a natural extension of your playing takes considerable work and patience, so just enjoy the process, experiment, and let your ear guide you to the sounds you like. Even over just one chord, there is always something new to find.