Lots of players love treble-bleed circuits, but they don’t play well with fuzzes. Here’s how to fix that.
Hello and welcome back to Mod Garage! This month, we will take a deeper look into a problem that occurs when using a treble-bleed network on a volume pot. We’ve talked about treble-bleed networks in detail before. A lot of players, including myself, can’t live without one, while other players don’t like the effect a treble-bleed network will have on their tone when rolling back the volume. When using a treble-bleed network together with an old-school fuzz or booster, you can get into some trouble. Same for using such a device with an active guitar circuit or after an active buffer device. The tone will start to sound harsh and not desirable at all. So why is this and what can be done about it?
To put the problem as simply as possible: The input impedance of a classic fuzz or booster design is very low, usually lower than 20kohms. Together with the pickup inductance (usually 2.5 H up to 8 H) it creates a low-pass filter, a happy accident with an ear-friendly result. When a fuzz pedal, for instance, receives a kind of neutral carrier signal, it results in good, harmonic-sounding overtone content. But this balance is very fragile, so if the fuzz receives an input signal containing a lot of high end (caused by a treble-bleed network, buffer, active guitar signal, etc.), that balance is disturbed. A lot of intermodulation distortion will be generated between the overtones of the input signal and the generated overtones of the distorted signal. Sum tones and difference tones will be present, which sound dissonant and not very pleasant. So, we can say that the natural filtering of the guitar signal at the input of the pedal is essential for the typical, well-known fuzz tone.
“A treble-bleed network can help you to cut through the mix when you play with reduced volume, so this is definitely a mod to consider.”
I’ve tried to simplify this complex subject wherever possible, hoping that it’s not too much theory. But I think you get the problem. So, what can be done to get rid of it? Don’t worry, you don’t need to remove your beloved treble-bleed network; we will simply make it switchable. This way, you can have both options in your guitar: treble-bleed network engaged and treble-bleed network completely shut off. This mod is not very complicated. All you need is a push-pull or push-push pot with a DPDT switch of your choice or a stand-alone DPDT switch. We will break down the mod into two possibilities:
Fig. 1
1. Replacing the volume pot. The easiest way to make the treble-bleed network switchable is by replacing your standard volume pot with a push-pull or push-push pot of your choice. The benefit of this method is that all connections are made on the new volume pot, so you will have no extra wires running through the circuit. A downside in a passive circuit can be that it’s hard to find a new pot with a good working taper as a volume pot. Usually, manufacturers only stock one version in 250k, 500k, and sometimes 1M, but only with one given taper.
Start to remove the treble-bleed network from your volume pot; we will reuse it with the new pot. Disconnect the wires from the pot and remove it. I prefer to solder all possible connections on a push-pull or push-push pot outside the guitar, which can make things much easier. Here is the wiring diagram for this operation (Fig. 1).
After installing the treble-bleed network to the switch and soldering the two wires from the switch to the pot, you can install the new pot and reconnect the wires. In the diagram, the treble-bleed network is engaged when the pot is pushed down and in its normal position, assuming that this is the standard operation, and you only want to shut down the treble-bleed network when using a fuzz or booster. If for any reason you want the treble-bleed network to be engaged when the pot is pulled up, this is easy to do. Solder the wire on A1 to C1 and the wire from A2 to C2 and you are done.
Fig. 2
2. Adding the treble-bleed network function to a tone pot or using an additional switch. If you want to add the mod to one of the tone pots rather than to the volume pot, the basic operation stays the same: Replace the pot with a push-pull or push-push pot of your choice. But now you can’t do all connections on this pot; the wires from A1 and A2 will have to go to the volume pot. This is also the way to go if you want to add an additional DPDT switch to the guitar, so you don’t need to replace a pot. Here is the wiring diagram for this option (Fig. 2), showing a DPDT switch. If you want to replace one of the tone pots, you naturally have to reconnect the wires and the tone cap from the pot to the new one.
All the rest stays the same. If you want the treble-bleed network to be engaged when the switch is up, simply solder A1 to C1 and A2 to C2.
This mod is also for all players who want to have both options but do not plan on using a fuzz or booster. Without a treble-bleed network, the tone gets noticeably warmer when rolling back the volume and a lot of players regard this as a kind of second tone you can have from your guitar. But in some cases, a treble-bleed network can help you to cut through the mix when you play with reduced volume, so this is definitely a mod to consider.
That’s it! Next month we will have a closer look into the PRS sweet switch and how to substitute it, so stay tuned! Until then ... keep on modding.
An amp-in-the-box pedal designed to deliver tones reminiscent of 1950s Fender Tweed amps.
Designed as an all-in-one DI amp-in-a-box solution, the ZAMP eliminates the need to lug around a traditional amplifier. You’ll get the sounds of rock legends – everything from sweet cleans to exploding overdrive – for the same cost as a set of tubes.
The ZAMP’s versatility makes it an ideal tool for a variety of uses…
- As your main amp: Plug directly into a PA or DAW for full-bodied sound with Jensen speaker emulation.
- In front of your existing amp: Use it as an overdrive/distortion pedal to impart tweed grit and grind.
- Straight into your recording setup: Achieve studio-quality sound with ease—no need to mic an amp.
- 12dB clean boost: Enhance your tone with a powerful clean boost.
- Versatile instrument compatibility: Works beautifully with harmonica, violin, mandolin, keyboards, and even vocals.
- Tube preamp for recording: Use it as an insert or on your bus for added warmth.
- Clean DI box functionality: Can be used as a reliable direct input box for live or recording applications.
See the ZAMP demo video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJp0jE6zzS8
Key ZAMP features include:
- True analog circuitry: Faithfully emulates two 12AX7 preamp tubes, one 12AX7 driver tube, and two 6V6 output tubes.
- Simple gain and output controls make it easy to dial in the perfect tone.
- At home, on stage, or in the studio, the ZAMP delivers cranked tube amp tones at any volume.
- No need to mic your cab: Just plug in and play into a PA or your DAW.
- Operates on a standard external 9-volt power supply or up to 40 hours with a single 9-volt battery.
The ZAMP pedal is available for a street price of $199 USD and can be purchased at zashabuti.com.
You may know the Gibson EB-6, but what you may not know is that its first iteration looked nothing like its latest.
When many guitarists first encounter Gibson’s EB-6, a rare, vintage 6-string bass, they assume it must be a response to the Fender Bass VI. And manyEB-6 basses sport an SG-style body shape, so they do look exceedingly modern. (It’s easy to imagine a stoner-rock or doom-metal band keeping one amid an arsenal of Dunables and EGCs.) But the earliest EB-6 basses didn’t look anything like SGs, and they arrived a full year before the more famous Fender.
The Gibson EB-6 was announced in 1959 and came into the world in 1960, not with a dual-horn body but with that of an elegant ES-335. They looked stately, with a thin, semi-hollow body, f-holes, and a sunburst finish. Our pick for this Vintage Vault column is one such first-year model, in about as original condition as you’re able to find today. “Why?” you may be asking. Well, read on....
When the EB-6 was introduced, the Bass VI was still a glimmer in Leo Fender’s eye. The real competition were the Danelectro 6-string basses that seemed to have popped up out of nowhere and were suddenly being used on lots of hit records by the likes of Elvis, Patsy Cline, and other household names. Danos like the UB-2 (introduced in ’56), the Longhorn 4623 (’58), and the Shorthorn 3612 (’58) were the earliest attempts any company made at a 6-string bass in this style: not quite a standard electric bass, not quite a guitar, nor, for that matter, quite like a baritone guitar.
The only change this vintage EB-6 features is a replacement set of Kluson tuners.
Photo by Ken Lapworth
Gibson, Fender, and others during this era would in fact call these basses “baritone guitars,” to add to our confusion today. But these vintage “baritones” were all tuned one octave below a standard guitar, with scale lengths around 30", while most modern baritones are tuned B-to-B or A-to-A and have scale lengths between 26" and 30".)
At the time, those Danelectros were instrumental to what was called the “tic-tac” bass sound of Nashville records produced by Chet Atkins, or the “click-bass” tones made out west by producer Lee Hazlewood. Gibson wanted something for this market, and the EB-6 was born.
“When the EB-6 was introduced, the Bass VI was still a glimmer in Leo Fender’s eye.”
The 30.5" scale 1960 EB-6 has a single humbucking pickup, a volume knob, a tone knob, and a small, push-button “Tone Selector Switch” that engages a treble circuit for an instant tic-tac sound. (Without engaging that switch, you get a bass-heavy tone so deep that cowboy chords will sound like a muddy mess.)
The EB-6, for better or for worse, did not unseat the Danelectros, and a November 1959 price list from Gibson hints at why: The EB-6 retailed for $340, compared to Dano price tags that ranged from $85 to $150. Only a few dozen EB-6 basses were shipped in 1960, and only 67 total are known to have been built before Gibson changed the shape to the SG style in 1962.
Most players who come across an EB-6 today think it was a response to the Fender Bass VI, but the former actually beat the latter to the market by a full year.
Photo by Ken Lapworth
It’s sad that so few were built. Sure, it was a high-end model made to achieve the novelty tic-tac sound of cheaper instruments, but in its full-voiced glory, the EB-6 has a huge potential of tones. It would sound great in our contemporary guitar era where more players are exploring baritone ranges, and where so many people got back into the Bass VI after seeing the Beatles play one in the 2021 documentary, Get Back.
It’s sadder, still, how many original-era EB-6s have been parted out in the decades since. Remember earlier when I wrote that our Vintage Vaultpick was about as original as you could find? That’s because the model’s single humbucker is a PAF, its Kluson tuners are double-line, and its knobs are identical to those on Les Paul ’Bursts. So as people repaired broken ’Bursts, converted other LPs to ’Bursts, or otherwise sought to give other Gibsons a “Golden Era” sound and look ... they often stripped these forgotten EB-6 basses for parts.
This original EB-6 is up for sale now from Reverb seller Emerald City Guitars for a $16,950 asking price at the time of writing. The only thing that isn’t original about it is a replacement set of Kluson tuners, not because its originals were stolen but just to help preserve them. (They will be included in the case.)
With so few surviving 335-style EB-6 basses, Reverb doesn’t have a ton of sales data to compare prices to. Ten years ago, a lucky buyer found a nearly original 1960 EB-6 for about $7,000. But Emerald City’s $16,950 asking price is closer to more recent examples and asking prices.
Sources: Prices on Gibson Instruments, November 1, 1959, Tony Bacon’s “Danelectro’s UB-2 and the Early Days of 6-String Basses” Reverb News article, Gruhn’s Guide to Vintage Guitars, Tom Wheeler’s American Guitars: An Illustrated History, Reverb listings and Price Guide sales data.
Some of us love drum machines and synths, and others don’t, but we all love Billy.
Billy Gibbons is an undisputable guitar force whose feel, tone, and all-around vibe make him the highest level of hero. But that’s not to say he hasn’t made some odd choices in his career, like when ZZ Top re-recorded parts of their classic albums for CD release. And fans will argue which era of the band’s career is best. Some of us love drum machines and synths and others don’t, but we all love Billy.
This episode is sponsored by Magnatone
An '80s-era cult favorite is back.
Originally released in the 1980s, the Victory has long been a cult favorite among guitarists for its distinctive double cutaway design and excellent upper-fret access. These new models feature flexible electronics, enhanced body contours, improved weight and balance, and an Explorer headstock shape.
A Cult Classic Made Modern
The new Victory features refined body contours, improved weight and balance, and an updated headstock shape based on the popular Gibson Explorer.
Effortless Playing
With a fast-playing SlimTaper neck profile and ebony fretboard with a compound radius, the Victory delivers low action without fret buzz everywhere on the fretboard.
Flexible Electronics
The two 80s Tribute humbucker pickups are wired to push/pull master volume and tone controls for coil splitting and inner/outer coil selection when the coils are split.
For more information, please visit gibson.com.